Acura Integra - (All years/styles)

mmyk72 · November 2006

My shop said my rear calipers and rotors needed replacement. The whole job costed $650(calipers, rotors, pads, fluids and labor). This included brake and tranny fluid change.

Can you help me clear this up:
1) I didn't hear any noise like you mentioned from the rear brakes. So is it normal for the caliper and rotor to be damaged with no warning sign.
2) I had the shop look at the brakes same time last yr, and they said ok. Is it strange for the rear brakes to need this much work in a yr's time?
3) The shop said the front pads are still good. It's close to 5 yrs (~40K miles) since last brake service. Does it make sense that the front pads don't need changing?
4) The shop just drained the transmission fluid, but not drop the pan and replaced the filter. Was this right?

bossmnpl · November 2006

ok im new here....i have a 2000 integra ls....and my gears scape from 2nd to 3rd, but only over like 4200 rpms...ive been told its my timing gears???? if so how much does it cost to fix this, can i do it myself(easy/hard)

nippononly · November 2006

Wow, that's pricey, although not out of the ballpark if they used OEM parts. The rear brakes don't make very much noise because they don't do very much of the work. Also, since the noise is behind the driver's seat, they are harder to hear. If you went from "the brakes are OK for now" to new calipers in a year, you must have done a bunch of HARD MILES in that time, that's all I can say. Look at your paperwork from last year - any decent shop will have given a percentage of remaining rear brake pad material - were they right on the edge then or something? New calipers and rotors means you ground the crap out of the brakes long after all the pad material was gone.

As for replacement intervals on these brake pads, it has been my repeated experience with Integras both old and new (and other Hondas too) that they actually tend to go through the rear pads faster than the front ones, which are typically much thicker, more heavy duty pads than the rears.

As for the transmission, draining just the fluid and replacing it will do for now. I hope that was a very small part of the price.

bossmnpl: it is likely to be a synchro going bad, and no, if you don't know whether or not you can do it yourself, then you can't. It's a lot of work and expensive for a shop to do. My advice would be nurse it for a while - it will probably last quite a long time that way - and try to rev-match shifts into third gear. Try not to race it too much! Smooth shifts will be easier at lower rpms.

mmyk72 · November 2006

As clueless as I am, I definitely know better than not to get pads after they are gone. That's why I asked this shop to check the brakes last yr to be on the safe side. They only verbally said it was ok, not how much brake is left to go. I did ~7000 miles this yr, and not much hard braking that I remember.

I'm thinking that if the shop did a good job checking it, I could've avoided the expensive rear brake job now....hmmm....this means I better find another shop that takes more time and care about inspecting my car.

Labor for tranny fluid change was only $23. So that's reasonable given it was done at the same time as the brake job. Originally, it was going to be $40-50 if done alone.

nippononly · November 2006

"They only verbally said it was ok, not how much brake is left to go"

In my experience, this means they never looked at them at all. But then, I am a cynic. In general, anything the shop tosses out as an offhand remark is worthless, whereas anything they put down on your write-up is meaningful (they know they can only be held to what they put down in black and white on your invoice). And CERTAINLY, if you PAY for a brake check, you should get in return a write-up of exactly what portion of your brakes is remaining.

And you're right, you could have saved $300-400 by replacing the brake pads before you chewed up the calipers and rotors.

mmyk72 · November 2006

Nippononly- Thanks for your advice again.

After spending $2000, I've learned a few lessons on what I need to do to keep the car in good shape and how to ask the right questions.

I should be more specific when speaking to people in the shop. Instead of saying 'Pls check my brakes', I should say 'Please tell me how thick the brake pads are and whether they need to be changed soon'.

It should be 2-3 yrs before another round of maintenance is due for me. I think I'd better find another shop.

corys · November 2006

I have the same problem with my 92 integra. When the S3 light flashes, the car won't start. Sometimes for 20 minutes or even a day. Any luck with a solution yet?

holdem · December 2006

Hey, check these articles regarding transmission and brake flushes: http://www.currysauto.com/article.htm.

You decide if the articles are trustworthy since they're from an automotive shop.

Good luck in finding a reputable shop. By the way, shops that provide quality service and know what they're doing will charge more.

mmyk72 · December 2006

Thanks for pointing out this site. Good info!

01gsrridah209 · December 2006

HEY HEY I JUST RECENTLY STUMBLED ON THIS SITE AND READ SOME OF THE FORUMS AND IT WAS QUITE INTERESTING...I THOUGHT IT WOULD BE COOL TO HEAR SOME OPINIONS/IDEAS ABOUT CARS WITH FELLOW INTEGRA-OWNERS...JUST RECENTLY GOT MY HANDS ON A 01 GSR OVER THE SUMMER AND SO FAR IVE GOT THE BASIC INTAKE/HEADER SET UP...IM THINKING OF GOING SKUNK 2 INTAKE MANI NEXT BUT ANY SUGGESTIONS AFTER THAT ON NEXT BEST PEFORMANCE PART (UNDER THE HOOD) JUST CURIOUS WHAT YOU GUYS THINK OH AND PARTS ARE EXPENSIVE LOLZ

nicoya76 · January 2007

i bought this 96 integra ls two weeks ago i was so excited i put alarm,system and everything,yesterday when i was ready to go home the car start fine but then shut off in the midle of the road.i change spark plug cables,distributor cap,i don't see any sparks. already check the fuel pump too,i tough it was the alarm maybe but i don't think so cause it look like is fine and car sound like is almost ready to start,please help me out it won't start!!!!!!!!!!

go8b · January 2007

Dunno 'bout the 96, but my 90 did some realy flaky stuff like run - norun - run - die, etc. when the igniter was going. It fires the plugs and sets all timing via magnetic switch in distributor. Good luck

go8b · January 2007

Well, didn't get much response to my tranny problems so now going to check into changing it out with another automatic. Does anybody know what transmission I can utilize on this 1.8 DOC? Will only the that year and size fit or can I use a trany from a '92 2.2? Any help is greatly appreciated!

nicoya76 · January 2007

so do you think is the distributor or the module on the distributor? :confuse:

nicoya76 · January 2007

i replaced the ignition module of my acura and the rotor and still don't start.already expend $200 dollars and nothing please anybody help me i need my car on the road.

kates91 · January 2007

I have a '91 and it recently started stalling sporadically and progressively had problems re-starting. It would never stall for my mechanic and defied diagnosis. Today, it finally wouldn't re-start and I had it towed to the shop. My mechanic saw no spark and said it was the ignition coil.

lacychick2 · January 2007

I just bought my car about two months ago... It's a 95 manual transmission acura integra. My brother just changed the oil and the coolent... But he doesn't know enough about cars to help.
About a week ago it started making this clicking, almost knocking sound when I started up the car. After revving it a few times or driving for a few minutes, the sound went away. This lasted a couple of days, but then it got worse. I tried to start it up one night, (I don't know if this matters but it was REALLY cold. Record lows.) and it wouldn't start. it was like... chugging. The whole car would rock as the car tried to start itself, but it wouldn't. After waiting a while I tried again, and it started fine.
It did that for two days, and now it's chugging again. I trun the key in the ignition to start the car. It seems to start going, but then it starts to slowly... stop running. It's like the engine starts to steadily "lose steam."
I discovered by accident that if I rev the engine when it starts to die, it will "catch" and start running smoothly. There are no other problems with it--once it's started, it's smooth and I haven't noticed any drag or noises. It's not even knocking anymore.
But I'm really worried and scared to drive it. I have no idea what's wrong with the car, if it's something simple or if I have to take it to a shop. I really can't afford to take it to the shop, I just bought it, so it's a last resort. Please, please help. Does anyone know what's going on??

plesniak · January 2007

Hi, first time user, had a question for my wife;s 90 integra,

She has a LIGHT next to the shifter but it is staying on and draining the battery.
does any one know what is that light for and how do i fix to turn it off to stop draining the battery??

johnv · January 2007

What do your rpms do? Start out ~750rpm and then drop until it dies? There are some vaccum related things that'd make for a rough idle.

zodiac2004 · January 2007

Greetings.
I'm looking to buy a 97 Integra "Anniversary edition".

The seller is currently unavailable, so does anyone know what equipment the anniv. edition came with.

Specifically, did it have A/C,Sunroof, Power door locks and remote trunk release?

only1harry · January 2007

Sounds to me like like the fuel pump might be going, or the fuel filter needs to be checked/changed. It might be doing that due to fuel starvation.

only1harry · January 2007

There is no "anniversary edition" Integra.

There was a Special Edition Integra but I am pretty sure they only came out in '96. They basically had power everything (like an Integra LS), A/C, and possibly alloy wheels. Not sure about the moon roof though.

NONE of the 3d generation Integras ('94-01) had a remote trunk release, BUT, the hatch door is part of the power lock system so once you unlocked the doors, all you had to do is open it from the outside, without needing a key. When you lock the doors, the hatch door locks as well, and the other way around. You could lock the hatch with the key (engine key), and all the doors will lock.

bfdrwc · January 2007

Hi ,,, I have a 97 teg also , I bought it about 1 1/2 year ago when I got it I chang the oil and put some synthetic oil in it and thought it would be better for the car ..... but I found ever time I go to drive the car when it was cold, I could hear the eng and it sound like some thing was wrong with it .... I change it and put the high miles oil in the car and that was good , just get the oil the car call for but in High miles , see if this help you ..... plus from what I have seen once you use honda or Aucra stuff the car does work better like , power stering,brake ful,and Tran ,,,,, try changeing the oil and let me know what happen :P :P

enigmatik09 · January 2007

Did you find the problem? Because my integra 92 LS auto. has exactly the same problem, I hope you can help me.

orion15 · January 2007

Hello, I am looking for some advice. I visited this forum once before and found the answer to my problem and I am hoping that I can go 2 for 2. Last week I heard a noise that sounded like rubbing coming from my rear driver side tire. I jacked up my car and found that my rear tire is not rotating freely. The emergency brake and the calipers are not stuck. The pads are not rubbing. Does anyone have any suggestions. Also does anyone know a site that I can visit to understand the mechanics of the wheel? A diagram would be helpful. Thank you.

plesniak · January 2007

No I have not. I tried taking out ALL the fuses inside the car (left of stearing column) but none of them seem to be linked to that light. I could try taking apart the center console where the shifter is but I do not really feel like doing that. I was hoping someone here would have been able to help..

If i find the problem I'll make sure to post it.

johnv · January 2007

I have the same problem with a 1990 Integra. Fails NOX (by ~5 PPM) but CO2 and HC are totally in the green. There is no EGR valve on the 1990 5spd.

Any options other than replacing the catalytic converter?

To reduce NOX you want a leaner mix is that right?

litespeed4 · January 2007

I need to change out the thermostat in my 94 integra RS 4 DR. I purchased a tstat and gasket from NAPA, but it had no installation instructions. Looking under the hood at the expected locations, I can't even tell where it goes.

Anyone familiar with this installation? Is there any kind of online manual with a picture of where it goes?

Thanks!

Dave

bfdrwc · January 2007

here is a link to help you to change your Thermostat , hope this help you and it also has soeme other good info too

http://www.team-integra.net/sections/articles/showarticle.asp?ArticleID=222

gerriberri · February 2007

I have a 99 Integra GS, with just 30k miles, (used to live in NYC.. no mileage, now Nevada.. 7k in last 6 months!).

Need to have it serviced and Acura is quoting me over $500.00 for service, and Honda is quoting me a bit over $300.00.

Any opinions on where the price should be and is there a difference between going to Honda or Acura?

Thanks!

Gerri

bfdrwc · February 2007

Well from what I know is honda made Acura so it's the same parts you gettign in your car .... now you need to fine out what that going to change in your car but I will say go at honda and fix it's the cheap one plus they will do the same work

gerriberri · February 2007

Thanks.. That was my thought, Acura said they change something ( I dont remember what)... but I think Honda would be just as reliable doing maintainence as Acura!

mmyk72 · February 2007

You should have each shop write up the estimate, that way you get a list of what work is included. Honda may be missing something that Acura is doing.

gerriberri · February 2007

Thats an excellent idea...

Will do! Thanks!

kishbonik · February 2007

This is wierd. Last 2 weeks, since the cold started, i am having the same problems with my acura integra 92, i put my car into park but it would not park, after a few seconds the parking light comes on or if not i have to hassle and play with it until it comes to park. If any one knows how to fix it please let me know asap. I will talk to my mechanic about this today and see what happens.

bfdrwc · February 2007

are you saying it does not want to go in park or the light just does not come on all the time .... but it will go in :surprise: park

kishbonik · February 2007

(this is exactly the problem i have)
I will pull into a parking spot and shift the car into Park. However, on the gear indicator on the dashboard, where it says P R N D etc, it doesn't light up to Park even though I have shifted it into Park. At this point, I cannot turn the car off; it is almost as if the car is between Drive and Park. Eventually, it will "click" and then light up on the dashboard, and then I can shut off the car. Sometimes this is 4-5 minutes and can be a real hassle.

mmyk72 · February 2007

Please write back what the services are and cost. I'd also like to get an idea of what these are.

doughykins · February 2007

I have a 1995 Acura Integra and also have noticed this problem in the past few months, where my car won't shift into park. It's quite frustrating! If anyone has any insight, it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

joberry · February 2007

i have this problem with my 97 integra, died on the freeway last thursday. i think i have it figured out to be the ignition coil. did you get yours figured out?

shr30 · February 2007

Hey all,
I am considering buying a 2000 acura intergra gs with automatic and 83k miles for about 7.5k. But I am a bit hesitant given that it is the most likely to be stolen.
I live in houston and wanted some views on how big a problem that might be?
Thanks.

bfdrwc · March 2007

OK you all my check engine light came on , I hook my Dig to it and it said PO141. now I look at my repair manual and this is what it said 02 sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction ( Bank no.1 Sensor no.2) , does any one know where I should start to check to fix this.I try to reset the light but as soon as the car starts it comes right back ....

davevm · March 2007

Hi, i do have a 97 anniversary edition, as indicated by the anniversary edition "acura badge" fixed to the right rear section under the tail light.

and, contrary to 1harry, the car does have an interior remote trunk release...

i saw your email as part of my search to get more information about the anniversary edition..

Shane

bfdrwc · March 2007

what are you talking about ?????????

ziggenpuss · March 2007

Hey, I am new to this forum and I am lost, but I was wondering if anyone can help me remove the front door panels on my 94 Integra LS? My front speakers are DOA and I need to replace them, but I am having trouble removing the door panel, any tips or instruction on how to do it properly would be so much appreciated!
TIA!!

abhinaik · April 2007

The D4 light on my 99 GS integra does not come up when I am driving in D4.
Also, The breaks are fairly new but brake light stays on even though breaks are not on and has enough break fluid.

Looks like sensor issue to me. Any thoughts?

bfdrwc · April 2007

for your D4 light ,it could be your blub , mine was going on and off then it just stop , after takeing the cluster off I found the blub was blown , I did not feel like spending the money fo r a new one so I just switch it with the L being I don't ever drive the car in that grear , as for the brake light I can't help they ..... did you change both front and rear brakes

abhinaik · April 2007

I changed both front and rear. One interesting thing to note, the brake light does not come always, its noticed that it comes up more whne the weather is cold.

abhinaik · April 2007

after takeing the cluster off I found the blub was blown

How do you do this. I would like to check the same.

bfdrwc · April 2007

there are 2 screw at the top of the Dash cluster , remove and pull out the black part , then you will see 3 screws hold down the cluster remove and then take the cluster out , remember to drop the streeing ..... it will be a litter hard to pull out the black pice but it will not brake just make sure to pulll it out straght out OK you will see all the blub in a line in the back you don't have to un hook abny cable it should have rome to work with :surprise:

Acura Integra - (All years/styles)

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