Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Toyota Celica (Hatchbacks / All Years)

1232426282932

Comments

  • hercules00hercules00 Member Posts: 134
    Hey

    I just bought an 03 GTS, silver with 14k miles on it a few months back. It was fully loaded with all the available stuff except for the action package and was in excellent scratch-free condition with just a few stone chips up ahead. The only flaw I could catch was that the rear tires were still the OEM Yokos and were kind a worn out. The front tires had been replaced. The dealer started out from 20k but I finally got it for 16.9k + taxes. So I think you should definitely push the guy. Play dealers against each other, and ya, check the classifieds for private vehicles. Specially recommended coz I had seen this very same car listed on cars.com by a private seller. By the time I got in touch with his, he had sold his car. But once I got the car from the dealer, I realised that it was the very same car! I called him and asked him how much he had traded it in for, he said 14.2k!! So the delaer made a neat profit of 2.7k for nothing :(
  • toyotasucksasstoyotasucksass Member Posts: 1
    Hey, I've got the same issue with my car at 68k. Consuming 2 quarts ever 1k. Engine is ruined. I'm compiling and sending this information to Toyota and 60 mins. Can I use your story? If so please send me this email with all of your contact information. Toyota should be held accountable.
    Thanks and best regards,
    Trish
  • gambit293gambit293 Member Posts: 406
    Do you realize you're replying to a post that's about 1 1/2 years old? Just an FYI. I don't think she is going to see your post. If you're looking for specific information about the blown GT-S engines, you may want to check out one of the toyota-specific online clubs.
  • peterpanpeterpan Member Posts: 120
    "The car runs at about 90MPH at 4000 RPM, so at 7800 RPM red line, theoretically it should have 178MPH top speed."

    If all combined forces acting on the car allow the engine to rev up to 7800 RPM, the car will run at 178 MPH, since the gear ratio does not change.

    If air resistance is a limiting factor then the load on the engine will not let it rev up to 7800 RPM. But then this is also a theory which must be proved.
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    well, as you like, but it doesn't need to be proved to me. Toyota published a top speed for the car, and it is not governor limited. I think it is around 138, 140, something like that. It is certainly nowhere near 178 mph. Air resistance prevents it from reaching redline in sixth gear (as it prevents many fast cars from reaching redline in their overdrive gear - overdrives are tall for a reason: highway cruising gas mileage improvement).

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • wscc1wscc1 Member Posts: 21
    I believe that CAR & DRIVER in their road test (Nov. or Dec. 1999?) saw an actual top speed (horse power limited) of 138 MPH. ROAD & TRACK (Nov. 1999) saw a
    top speed of 134 MPH.
  • peterpanpeterpan Member Posts: 120
    My figures are for the last gen Celica GTS, which is 2000 and later.
    Would the test in 1999 be for the first batch of 2000 Celica GTS model?
  • rorrrorr Member Posts: 3,630
    "Would the test in 1999 be for the first batch of 2000 Celica GTS model?"

    Yes. The car actually hit the market in October of 1999 and the road tests in the various magazines were in either the October or November issues if memory serves. I got my GTS in November of 1999.

    Not too sure about that 138mph number. Seems somewhat high. I would believe a number closer to 134 or perhaps a bit lower.

    FYI - top speed in the GTS is achieved in 5th. Shifting into 6th drops the rpm too much and the car actually begins to lose velocity. For top speed runs, one must run essentially up against the rev limiter in 4th before upshifting into 5th, taking care that the rpm does NOT drop below 6k.

    Or so I'm told...... ;)
  • 90gs90gs Member Posts: 107
    Hey guys I just bought a 1995 Celica GT for $3,200 and I wanna know if there are any good or standard modifications that can be done to this car. I'm concerned more particularly with the top end on the RPM band because I already have plenty of power from 1-3k. ;)

    Are there any aftermarket names that work well with this car? Any I should steer clear of? Any common modifications that are made to this year? :)
  • peterpanpeterpan Member Posts: 120
    My daughter, who started driving 2 years ago, claims '...the GTS is the only car she ever likes...' She likes the GTS' firm suspension over the GT's since it is fun to drive and gives her excellent feels for the road. Now she would not even loan it to me.

    I need to buy another car this summer and the GTS is it. Dealers still have new GTS delivery. I was told the factory is still producing Celicas until their existing inventory of parts runs out. I found 1 new GTS in Southern California. Unfortunately it is the same color as the one we already have.

    How can I find out what's available in other dealers? Out-of-state cars may need emission upgrades for California and may not be worth the trouble and the time.

    I have been using Autotraders.com, Cars.com, Yahoo's Auto etc..to look for used GTS. There are plenty of used GT in the market but GTS supply is very limited.

    Any suggestions for where to search?
  • adrian777adrian777 Member Posts: 1
    So, I am thinking of purchasing an '00-'01 Celica to replace my 2000 Mustang Conv.

    So, how long are the celicas going for before they need major repairs? I know Toyota is great as far as reliability, but how long should I expect a Celica engine to last? I always try to put a ceiling on the mileage I look at when I consider used cars, and was wondering, is 60K miles too high to consider when buying? I am planning on using this car about 1500 miles a month, and want to make sure it will last for 5 years.

    At any rate, I enjoy toyota having a rep as far as being solid and million mile engines, but was wondering if this applied to celicas as well.

    Also -- as a sidenote, is the GTS that much cooler than the GT? :lemon:
  • peterpanpeterpan Member Posts: 120
    I had a Toyota Camry I4 whose engine lasted over 270K miles and still running strong. Engine, transmission and steering were all in good condition. I was routinely cruising at 95 MPH for hours on long trips without any problem.

    The struts were all original and working well. The car was running straight and very stable at high speed. The steering was precise. There was no shimmying or wandering in the steering during lane changes, unlike what I have found in older Honda Accords and new GMs, FORDs etc..

    The car had full power. Everything in the car worked well except the rack and pinion unit which was starting to leak. The front and rear engine seals were also leaking oil. It consumed about 1 quart every 3000 miles.

    To keep the engine and transmission to last long, you need to replace oil and filter every, say, 5K miles, transmission fluid every 20K miles or when smelling burned.

    Overheating does the worst damages to engines. So keep the radiator clean by flushing every 2 years or 30K miles to prevent corrosion and blockage. Use only Toyota's red coolant which is less corrosive than the normal green fluid. Use only distilled water, never tap water, to prevent calcium deposit to block the radiator core.

    Toyota's engine and transmission should work reliably for about 300K and Lexus 500K miles, if you do half way decent preventive maintenance like I do. I did all preventive maintenance, oil, brakes, tune up etc.. myself, except a few major jobs like replacing the leaky power steering line and starter.

    There was time when the Camry was running slightly rough. I checked the records and found the plugs had not been replaced for 150K miles. I put in new plugs and it ran smooth again.

    Regarding the GTS, the engine has special valve design that allegedly pumps out a lot of HP over 6000 RPM. I also has firmer suspension than the GT and 4 disk brakes. It's designed for high-speed racing. You definitely feel every bump on the freeway, however small. I feel kind of tired driving the GTS for 1.5 hours, 100 miles freeway trip, whereas the GT's softer suspension is less tiresome. The GTS is priced about $5K more than the GT.

    The only feature that I wish the GT has is the tiptronic manual shifting on top of the automatic transmission, which is fun to rev up in street cruising. If you can put up with manual transmision, you are not missing much. You are more likely to find leather seats and side airbags etc...in the GTS.

    The bottom line is I would buy a GT with tiptronic shifting, side airbag and leather seats.
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    is the same block as the Corolla's engine, strengthened and reinforced for high-RPM use. I would say you don't have much to worry about there. They have been using this exact block since '98 in the Corolla, with no systemic problems reported to date.

    With a GTS, just make sure to buy from an older person if buying used, as some kids have really made this model their street racing darling, and you wouldn't want one of those once they are done with it!

    The GTS has bigger rims (the way all the ones sold were actually equipped), and razor sharp handling (including a slightly punishing ride, as someone mentioned). I am sure you will not find one WITHOUT leather, and xenons were pretty common in the early years, and I believe standard for the last year or two? Its power is all above 6000 rpm on the tach - below that point it actully has slightly LESS torque and power than the GT. Above that, it takes off like a rocket, similar to the VTEC Hondas of the mid-90s.

    Oh, and 60K miles is NOT too high a mileage to consider buying. Look for records of maintenance.

    peterpan: while new Celicas may still technically be available, I believe they stopped exporting them to the U.S. several months ago and they are pretty much all gone. As far as new, check out Longo Toyota's inventory on-line - they are located in Southern California and are the biggest Toyota dealer in the world outside Japan (and maybe including Japan). If they don't have what you need, it is unlikely that other smaller dealers will.

    I have also noticed the phenomenon you mentioned - owners are hanging onto these Celicas a lot more than the Celicas of the past, and used ones are hard to find. There were only 150K or so sold in the entire model run throughout the United States, so it's not a huge population. AutoTrader is a good source for that, also if you are thinking about possibly looking for a certified car, Toyota's own website will help you locate the car you are looking for.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • rorrrorr Member Posts: 3,630
    "Celica engine is the same block as the Corolla's engine......"

    Since the GT engine is completely different from the GTS engine (larger bore/shorter stroke in the GTS motor), which Celica engine is the same block as the (std.) Corolla engine?
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    sorry, I should have clarified, the GT engine is the same as the one in the Corolla. The one in the GTS is the same engine series, but with a different bore and stroke as you mentioned.

    There have been no problems with either engine in Toyotas, to my knowledge. However, a couple of different magazines mentioned that when Lotus did high-speed testing on the GTS engine for the U.S. Elise, there were "durability issues", annd Lotus beefed it up some more. Never saw anywhere that these "issues" were elaborated on, so I don't know if it was just extreme stuff that only Lotus would worry about.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • rorrrorr Member Posts: 3,630
    Thanks. I was only pointing that out in case someone got the idea that the GT and GTS had essentially the same motor with just some valvetrain differences.

    I've heard the same thing regarding the 'Lotusification' of the GTS motor. For some reason, I think it had to do with oiling issues under high-g loads but I could be completely off base. It's been known to happen from time to time (the offbase part; not the oiling issue part) :blush:

    I've always wondered why in the heck Toyota would kill the MR-2 when they should have dropped the GTS engine in it to offer a low cost alternative to the Elise?
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    can you imagine a mid-engined car, as light as the MR2 is, with 190 hp under the hood? Slightly sobering imagining that in the hands of someone not well versed in the control of such things! :-/

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • rorrrorr Member Posts: 3,630
    Oh, I don't know. I think most of the problems associated with mid-engine cars comes from a handling perspective (ie, the are VERY responsive yet their low-polar moment of inertia means that once they begin to swap ends, they are harder for a novice to catch). I don't think more power would make this all that much more of a problem. Besides, as you've rightly pointed out, the additional power of the GTS motor over the GT motor is all in the upper end. What tends to get people in trouble where excess power is concerned is (IMO) more the fault of more TORQUE than the driver can handle as opposed to more hp.

    Frankly, I would be more learly of 300 hp in the hands of a novice in a Mustang than 180 hp in the hands of a novice in an MR2.
  • peterpanpeterpan Member Posts: 120
    Hi Nippon,

    Toyota is still making the Celica. That's what the fleet managers of a few dealers told me. They are mostly either white of black, with cloth seats. They told me I can order any color I want for MSRP with 6 weeks lead time.

    Longo has 1 white GTS. I was at the Longo Lexus dealer next door and went over to look at it, just to check out color compatibilty. White color looks OK on this car. Longo Toyota usually has the highest prices and the rudest sales people on earth! I would not buy from them.

    Other dealers do have Celicas. Cabe in Long Beach has 1 red GTS. Carson has 1 white. Pasadena has 2 GTS. Kearney Mesa has 1 white. You just have to call and work with them.

    I will do another 100-mile test run. If it wears me out, I will probably buy a GT with softer suspension and more comfortable ride.



    peterpan: while new Celicas may still technically be available, I believe they stopped exporting them to the U.S. several months ago and they are pretty much all gone. As far as new, check out Longo Toyota's inventory on-line - they are located in Southern California and are the biggest Toyota dealer in the world outside Japan (and maybe including Japan). If they don't have what you need, it is unlikely that other smaller dealers will.
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    well I don't believe Toyota is going to STOP making Celicas in Japan. What they have stopped doing is exporting them. I know they have done that, because they made the announcement several months ago. So whatever Celicas are left out there have already been in the country at least 3 months, and are just "trickling down" through distribution channels.

    As for Longo, I am surprised at your response, but certainly they can't please everybody. I have a number of friends and family in the L.A. area, ALL of whom have bought from Longo and gotten a significantly lower price than other dealers they cross-shopped. But I just thought of Longo because it has such a large standing inventory. I DO think it is telling that in a huge and heavily populated area like the LA basin, you only found a half dozen Celica GTSs...they are definitely down to the very last of the new ones.

    It is sad we won't have a Celica here any more. :-(

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • peterpanpeterpan Member Posts: 120
    I did another 200 mile round-trip run with the GTS. The time was between 9 PM and midnight. The weather was nice and warm, with a clear sky. The freeways were dry and clean. Traffic was light and flowing smoothly . There was no congestion. I was cruising mostly between 80-90 MPH.

    My work load was light during this trip, However, I still feel a deep fatigue 24 hours afterwards. This is unlike any other trips that I have done with other cars.

    The fatigue must be caused the rough ride with the very firm suspension in the GTS.
  • guitarzanguitarzan Member Posts: 873
    How do your hips feel? Lower back? Any lasting soreness? These seats are torture on the ol' alignment. I feel that saps a lot of my energy.
  • peterpanpeterpan Member Posts: 120
    The seat was fine. Could use more support under the thighs.

    I felt no soreness or pain after this 200 mile 3-hour freeway run in the GTS, just deep fatigue similar to jet lag after 10-hour flight across the Pacific.
  • peterpanpeterpan Member Posts: 120
    I had the flu last week and it was more likely the cause of the fatigue, not the test drive in the GTS. I have been coughing my lungs out the whole week, and it could not have been caused by the GTS. The flu and cough medicines really slowed me down.

    I feel much better this week, so I will have to redo my test run.

    I was at the Porsche dealer this week and took a test drive of a Carrera. It retails about $75K, has 320 HP compared to 180 in the GTS. The new 05 Carrera type S retails about $180K.

    The Carreras are very nice, solid cars. It's faster but is heavier and the steering is also heavier. Porsche's tiptronics shifting is very quick and smooth, while the GTS shifts slowly. The Carrera has a lot of engine, wind and road noise. The GTS seems to have quicker handling and lower wind/road noise. While the GTS I4 engine has the high-pitch whine of jet engines spooling up, the Carrera's flat 6 rumbles loudly in low frequency, sort of like the big Harley bikes.

    I wouldn't want to spend that much money for a set of wheels and make the same kind of noise as the Hells' Angels in my neighborhood. Do I look like the kind of tough guys with leather jackets, tattooed forehead, cruising around in noisy cars, terrorizing women and children?

    There is no way I can justify paying 3 times the GTS' price for the same amount of fun. Besides that I don't trust German engineering. German products have lost a lot of confidence among consumers with lower reliability and high life-cycle costs.
  • rorrrorr Member Posts: 3,630
    I think that your comparison of a Celica GTS to a Porsche Carrera is a first. Congrats.

    I also think that your feelings of fatigue after your stint in a GTS could be attributed ENTIRELY to the flu. As a 42 year old with occasionally back/neck stiffness, I can honestly say I could drive my GTS for a solid 8-10 hours with no problems. I definitely think you should redo your test run.
  • 01gt01gt Member Posts: 4
    First of all, germans and italians make the best autos and bikes. They like the rumble. Check out Ducati, nothing sounds better than a v-twin roaring past at the honda super bike classic. Second of all, you can not even begin to compare a toyota (unless tt supra) against a porsche. The part about you not wanting to go through your neighborhood being loud makes you sound "to good" for a porsche. Noone will look down on you for driving one, it doesnt matter what neighborhood you are in.
  • 01gt01gt Member Posts: 4
    I drive a 2001 gt, and the suspension is "softer" than the gts' but still sporty. It also still handles really well. plus i heard that the 2zz in the gts is knows for messing up valves when miss-shifted.
  • rorrrorr Member Posts: 3,630
    "plus i heard that the 2zz in the gts is knows for messing up valves when miss-shifted."

    Well, it's kinda hard to NOT mess up the valves if you downshift at 75mph and grab 2nd gear instead of 4th. :surprise:

    Don't think that's really the fault of the engine. More of an issue with the shifter (both the one installed by Toyota and the one sitting behind the wheel IMO).
  • 01gt01gt Member Posts: 4
    I can admit that I miss a gear occasionally, but the second that I begin to let off of the clutch, I realize what I did and immediately slam it back to the floor. And your right, I suppose it is the drivers fault. I need to realize that not everyone is ment to be a JGTC racer like me ;)
  • toyota94toyota94 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1994 Celica GT with a 5-speed manual trans. having about 55,000 miles. I recently brought it into the dealer to have its first major (60K) tune-up + its annual state-required safety inspection. The dealer's mechanic also found the following "problems": the timing belt needed to be replaced; the power steering fluid was thick; the brake seal hose needed to be replaced; the ignition wires were arcing; the temperature switch (thermostat?) opened only half-way; the antifreeze was now "5/0" and should be "25/0"; and the fuel-injectors (4 of them?) needed to be replaced. The only other major repair done, about a year-ago, was replacing the starter. Otherwise, the car has has run very well throughout its 11 year career - I am the only owner, and the car is kept in a garage daily. It has never been driven long distances (greater than 50 miles) on any single day, and never been driven out of state. We agreed to have all of the these repairs done. We were then notified by the dealer's service dept. that during a required "pressure test" that the top neck portion, that connects the bulk of the radiator to the radiator cap, blew off, implying that there must have been a crack at that juncture. Now, the radiator needs to be replaced. Can the radiator develop such a crack under normal conditions with the driver not knowing it, or is the dealer's mechanic possibly at fault when they did the pressure test? Can the failed pressure test lead to other possible problems in the motor or elsewhere? Thanks for any advice or insights on this matter.
    Sincerely, Toyota94
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    Have you used this dealer before? Do they have a good reputation?

    The only reason I ask is that some of those things you mentioned have a slightly bogus ring to them, but I could be wrong. For instance, replacement of all fuel injectors at that mileage would not only be unexpected, but also would have given you significantly noticeable symptoms, like poor running and idling, lots of hesitation when accelerating, etc. And why all four injectors?

    Yes, it is possible that the radiator could develop a crack there, although for it to blow during a pressure test is mighty "convenient". No, if performed properly, the pressure test itself, and the resultant radiator failure, should not have harmed the motor in any way.

    On the plus side, a replacement radiator is something every older car will need sooner or later, and not super expensive, so if you plan to keep the car a few years it is a good investment.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • toyota94toyota94 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for your ideas and suggestions. We have had virtually no problems with the dealer's service department, although they tend to be a bit "pricey", even by New York standards. It cost a nice cozy $2,500 to have all the work done. I remember when one could get a decent used car for that price. I should correct something I said before: the fuel injectors were cleaned and not replaced. I guess I am more annoyed with the seemingly lack of durability of Toyota parts (except for maybe the clutch), especially for a car, such as this Celica, that is not even close to reaching 100,000 miles, even though it is 11 years old. Hopefully, I won't have to pay another $2,500 until the year 2016, on this car, if I still have it.
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    that sounds like a lot of the invoice-padding that Toyota dealers are famous for. At $2500, I would challenge every single thing on there. Fuel injector CLEANING is very different from replacement, yes, and is a way for them to get an extra $100 from you to pour a $12.95 bottle of fluid in the gas tank. The fluid, of course, is the same type of injector cleaner that is mandated to be formulated into all gasoline. The only time to ever really use an extra bottle is if you are having noticeable problems of the sort I mentioned: uneven acceleration and the like.

    I say this only because Toyota are generally fairly durable, and you have a model that has proven to be particularly durable. Many of the extra things you paid for may not reflect your car's lack of durability, but rather the dealer's ability to recommend every single unnecessary maintenance operation he can think of in order to make a better profit.

    Edit...I just went back out of curiosity to look at what you mentioned you had done, and holy crap! They asked for $2500 for this???

    "I recently brought it into the dealer to have its first major (60K) tune-up + its annual state-required safety inspection. The dealer's mechanic also found the following "problems": the timing belt needed to be replaced; the power steering fluid was thick; the brake seal hose needed to be replaced; the ignition wires were arcing; the temperature switch (thermostat?) opened only half-way; the antifreeze was now "5/0" and should be "25/0"; and the fuel-injectors (4 of them?) needed to be replaced"

    60K service on this car should run around $400 at a dealer, and would INCLUDE replacement of the coolant they found so out of whack. Another $100 or so should buy you a new thermostat. State inspection would be around $100 where I live, so that's $600.

    Timing belt replacement including new water pump: $500 MAX, and then they should have reduced the price of the thermostat replacement. Now you're at $1100 or so.

    Fuel injector treatment: $100 or so, and such a rip-off at any price.

    New wires, $75, fresh P/S fluid another $75. Both acceptable after this many years. What are we at, $1350?

    I don't know what a brake seal hose is, sounds imaginary, but there are brake hoses and brake cylinder seals, maybe it was both? And then what, another $1000 for a new radiator? Just for future reference, Toyota OEM radiators (the kind the dealer would probaby use) cost hundreds and hundreds of $$ more than an aftermarket radiator, which would get you at least three or four years and save you big bucks.

    Except for the brake seal, I can't fault the car for much at this age, and of course Toyotas in the 90s were more expensive to maintain with that timing belt coming due for replacement every 90K. I haven't checked the interval for your particular car, but I hope you did. Dealers recommend timing belt replacement every 60K miles to make more money, Toyota itself only recommended replacement every 90K miles for most of the cars with this engine. If the dealer did that little "service" early, that would have been $500 or so you could have saved right there.

    I hate that dealers push so hard to sell their most profitable service items, even though the service to the customer is sometimes marginal at best, and often not warranted based on the manufacturer's own recommendations.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • rorrrorr Member Posts: 3,630
    I've gotta agree with nippononly. I can't see more than $1750 worth of work there (max) for what they did.
  • rorrrorr Member Posts: 3,630
    That price seems a bit stiff to me.

    Have you used the vehicle appraiser tool under the 'Used Vehicles' section of Edmunds to try and appraise that car?

    http://www.edmunds.com/used/1995/toyota/celica/4310/options.html?tid=edmunds.u.prices.utmv- .vdpprice.13.Toyota*
  • jscevjscev Member Posts: 36
    Not judging by price, would it be worth getting rid of my 2002 Celica GT for an 02 Acura RSX Type-S? i have done comparisons and i know the acrua is better but is it worth getting, just looking for opionons..i know its off topic a little but i dont want to start a new forum, i dont even know how or if its possible anyway.
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    if you have a regular GT, you would gain a LOT of power, above the 6000 rpm line, by switching to the Acura.

    Having had both cars, I would add that you will get a SIGNIFICANTLY less tacky interior, better climate control (always had a hard time getting my Celica to cool down on hot days), and slightly better outward visibility, as the Acura does not come standard with the rear-end spoiler which totally blocks rear view in the Celica.

    The Acura also has a better shifter, and of course leather seats. The ride is less jittery, but as for handling it is a wash between the two cars. And the Acura has more road noise inside.

    Oh, and if you care about cupholders even a little, like I do, you will be only too glad to jettison those STUPID cupholders in the Celica, which block your arm every time you want to shift, if there is anything in them! :-)

    Footnote: if all this has you thinking you want to get an RSX-S, you should bear in mind that the '06 Civic SI has all the same mechanicals PLUS a limited slip diff, only in coupe form, not hatchback, for thousands less $$ - this car is just beginning to arrive at dealers as we speak, and should be well stocked within a month or so.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • zingerzinger Member Posts: 61
    In my opinion the Acura isnt all that. I have a GTS 6 SP. I went and tested the RSX-S because all the mags said it was so great. I didnt think so - the celica is much more comfortable, handles better, cools great, and looks sharp. Get a 350Z or a goat.
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    good options, but ones that will cost you thousands more than an RSX-S.

    Plus, the GTO is all engine - the handling and much other stuff about that car are just so-so. If you want a cheaper car with the Corvette powertrain and have $10K more than the cost of the RSX-S to spend, it is your most powerful choice for the money.

    The 350Z is heavier and totally claustrophobic inside. Apart from that, it has much to recommend it, and if that is the type of car you are thinking of, definitely look at the Mustang GT as well. (same price range)

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • rorrrorr Member Posts: 3,630
    Actually, I would think a better upgrade from the Celica (and in keeping with the same general theme of excellent handling/steering/braking and high rpm power) would be an RX8. You also would get somewhat usuable back seats and with pricing closer to an RSX-S than to a Mustang GT.
  • zingerzinger Member Posts: 61
    I thought the Z was no more claustrophobic than the Celica. Of course they are having some tire and other quality issues which is a definite concern. My 2000 Celica has had no problems aside from a $900 broken shifter cable.

    I almost traded it for a GTO but couldnt do it because I didnt want to give up the handling, brakes, stereo sound etc. I am hoping the 350Z would be a good mix of both cars - handling and some better/more torque.
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    about the Celica/RSX-S in these times of pricey gas is the great fuel economy - exceeding 30 mpg isn't hard to do.

    Spend the extra money for the next step up - RX8/350Z/Mustang GT - and you get more power, but with a huge fuel economy penalty. In regular driving, those will all be 20 mpg cars, far from the Celica/RSX's 30 mpg. But if you have the money and don't mind spending more to buy and then more to gas up, they definitely have their advantages! :-)

    The poster above is right - the only one of those three with a mix of handling and comfort close to the Celica is the RX-8. The 350Z is a rock-hard ride, and the Mustang has sloppy, heavy handling.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • jscevjscev Member Posts: 36
    thanks for your input..i was seriously considering the new civic si..but to me it is worth paying the extra money..i HATE the digital Speedometer..they drive me crazy..so anoying..so i refuse to get one, although i will test drive it anyways. i know now that i dont like digi speedos because i have driven a bunch of them. and i have to admit i do like the looks of the rsx better. also i believe it has a few more hp and torque, with just as good gas milage if not better. i have researched alot on all the cars i have been interested in because i am fine with keeping my celica but i would like to get rid of it with the miles rackin up so i can get as much trade in as possible. any further thoughts feel free to respond. thanks again
    also to all the other responses. i am not a fan of mustangs let alone fords. i live in maine and need a decent car in the winter and mustangs, 350Z's and whatnot would not be the best option..although i am fond of the 350Z but its just not resonable with gas prices, and a winter car, and way to pricy for me.
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    another option worth considering in this price range is the Cobalt SS S/C. I have sat in it but not driven it - it is more spacious inside than the Celica/RSX, which can be nice. :-)

    Two different mags recently did comparisons that included the RSX-S and the Cobalt S/C. In one, the RSX won by a goodly margin despite being the much older of the two, but in the other one the two cars were neck and neck - they liked that the Cobalt had much better torque for round-town driving and stoplight drags. Worth a look perhaps. It is certainly the right price, as long as it is not being marked up.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • jscevjscev Member Posts: 36
    I have considered that. i dont know about you but do you liek the back end of the cobalt. i would only consider the ss anyway. i do not like the back end, first off i think the back is WAY to huge. the tail lights are suposed to resemble the vette, in a way it does but look really cheap to me. the next thing is i cannot believe they did not add dual exhaust, which is not to much of a big deal but i think it would make the back end at least look a little more sporty. chevys are my fav car but they are not worth it in the long run in reliability and trade in. who know maybe the cobalt is an exception but i would much rather stick with my celica then a cobalt. i have pretty much narrowed it down to keeping my celica or gettin the rsx..type S only. if you have any other counter offers or way to try to pursuade me to one direction please do because i am at a deadlock and cannot decide. thanks again
  • mytoy1mytoy1 Member Posts: 3
    I have recently had brake work on a 2001 Celica (front pads and rear rotors turned.) Now when I go over bumps the brakes rattle...metalic clinking sounds. I returned to the dealership and was told this was normal. Is it?
  • guitarzanguitarzan Member Posts: 873
    It is normal for mechanics who don't care. Abnormal for the rest of us.

    Can you tell where the noise is coming from? Front/back, right/left? Start there. I suggest you jack up the car, take the wheel off, and tap the shield that is around the rotors. Is that the sound you hear when driving? If yes, look for a shield that the garage gorilla BENT when he removed the brakes. One of the shields may now be hitting another part of the car as a result of being bent. Most likely you yourself can use a crowbar or such, and bend the shield back away from whatever is contacting it. Be very careful not to put leverage or torque on critical parts. If you're not sure, just find a mechanic to check it for you.

    One other possibility is that the new brake pads do not have clips, and they are rattling around. I think more than likely in that case, you would feel a small clunk, a shift in the pads, when you step on the brakes, rather than what you currently are experiencing.

    Just recently, there was a pebble inside my GTS's front right rotor "hub", and it would clang against the shield as I drove. Loud like an annoying bell! The pebble must have shot into that space from above, past the caliper or such. I could not remove it from the open available space below, the gap is smaller than the pebble. So I finally reached inside with some forged needle-nose pliers, and crushed the pebble, 3 times, until the pieces were small enough to fall through the crack.
  • wscc1wscc1 Member Posts: 21
    I have been having a strange problem with my 2000 Celica GTS (manual, approximately 80,000 miles). It happens at times, but not always, when accelerating gently. It is most noticeable in third or fourth gear (since that's when it is easiest to notice it) but seems to happen in all gears. It appears to be just a tach problem and not an engine problem, although I'm not sure yet. As I approach 4,000 RPM, the tach will suddenly drop to 3,000 RPM and the engine seems to be a bit "soft" but the road speed by the speedometer and feel certainly doesn't seem to reflect this change. It is a sometime problem that, of course, wouldn't show up for a mechanic. Any ideas?
  • rorrrorr Member Posts: 3,630
    Well THAT'S an odd one.....

    A clutch that's just starting to slip perhaps? Maybe the clutch is just starting to slip, revs build a little higher than normal and as you approach the shift point and lift the throttle a bit, the clutch 'catches' and the revs drop without the vehicle speed dropping. The engine would seem a bit softer since now it's only turning 3k rpm instead of closer to 4k.

    That's my guess.
  • wscc1wscc1 Member Posts: 21
    It can't be a clutch problem. That would be road speed going down while revs go up. It happens (or at least noticed) when accelerating gently to 4000 RPMS - not near a shift point (7800 if you push it to the red line on the GTS). When accelerating hard it doesn't appear to happen or at least things are happening too fast to notice, but I
    also don't feel the "softness" in the motor.
Sign In or Register to comment.