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Toyota Celica (Hatchbacks / All Years)

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Comments

  • guitarzanguitarzan Member Posts: 873
    I will be very curious to know the solution once this is fixed. It is natural for me to wonder about the standard specifications - air flow, fuel flow, timing, and such.
  • rorrrorr Member Posts: 3,630
    Let me get this straight:

    You are in gear (whether it is 2nd, 3rd, 4th) and the tach suddenly drops from 4k rpm to 3k rpm WITHOUT any drop in vehicle speed?

    The tach is either malfunctioning (reporting drop in rpm where there ISN'T one) or the tach is working fine. Since you report the engine going 'soft', I was assuming that the drop in rpms was real and the 'softness' was simply the engine making less torque at 3k rpm than at 4k.

    However, if the tach is malfunctioning, there is your problem.

    If the tach is working fine, you MUST have some slippage SOMEWHERE in the drivetrain. That is the ONLY way for you to be IN GEAR and experience a drop in engine rpms without a drop in vehicle speed. I can think of only one place where you can have slippage in the drivetrain: the clutch.
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    when a clutch is just barely beginning to go, it will still grab partially even under hard acceleration, and it is possible you wouldn't notice that the engine is revving higher than normal in your acceleration runs, as it will grab fully as soon as you let up on the gas a little bit. This will gradually get worse and worse as the clutch wears more.

    High gears are the best test of this. Get to 50 mph, put it in 6th and floor it. If it immediately revs up without accelerating, you have a slipping clutch.

    The ONLY other thing that could be happening if revs drop from 4K to 3K in gear without loss of speed is a malfunctioning tach.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • mytoy1mytoy1 Member Posts: 3
    It seems like the noise is from any or all of the wheels.
    The dealership told me the break pads "float" and that is the reason for the clinky noise. They also said it would clear up after collecting dirt, dust , ice and snow. I think I've been given a "snow job" about this.I'm no mechanic and will probably have to go to someother shop to have the breaks looked at. I sure would like to be more knowedgeable on the subject.
  • guitarzanguitarzan Member Posts: 873
    The replacement pads may not have the retaining springs/shims that the OEM pads had. Those hold the pad in place on the caliper. Without retainers, the pads will float about. When you press the brake pedal, they will be seated properly from the pressure of the caliper, and operate correctly. After letting the brake pedal go, the pads will again be free to rattle about.

    I originally said I didn't think that was the issue, because you mentioned this is a DEALER repair, and I thought that car manufacturers always use retaining clips in their OEM parts. I checked out google newsgroups with "celica brake pad", and one person posted that the Celicas have several retainers, and they are packaged separate from the replacement pads.

    Aftermarket pad kits many times do not have retaining clips. Those companies probably do not want to spend the effort manufacturing small clips, so they just don't include them with the pads.

    The quote you have, about the brake pads sticking to the calipers after they get dirty, that may be theoretically possible. More than likely they'll continue rattling.

    Call another Toyota dealer, ask for the service department, and get their advice. Or you can find a 1800 number for Toyota's Customer Service, and ask them. You'll get a non-biased answer.

    When this is said and done, I will be curious if
    1) The dealer for some reason left out retainers
    2) The dealer uses aftermarket parts rather than Toyota parts.
    3) Retainers are not available for the OEM replacement pads.

    Best guess: #1. They did a "quick and easy" job to maximize profit, and didn't do it right.
  • guitarguruguitarguru Member Posts: 4
    Hello, I live in CO, it is completly normal to get half a foot of snow in a night...I am a snowboarder, and drive to the snow mountain about once or twice a week.I currently own a 97' 4runner, and its abosolutly sence able for the place i live, and its a great car! but i am absolutly obsessed with the 00' Toyota Celica. My family and I almost bought one, we brought it home for a night, and i love the way it drives, sounds and feels. Absolutly the best feeling car that i have ever driven. but it ended up that my parents thought that it is too low to the ground for Colorado snow. So we got a 20 mpg 4runner thats constantly breaking down, Seeing as im a teen and cant afford to go to the garage, ever two to three months, I want a car that will hold up... I'm moving out soon, for college, and i guess my question is. If i get a Celica, will it hold tight in snow conditions, I dont mean actually driving in like 6 inch snow, but if i hit a patch of snow or ice, am i going of the road? also if i do get it will it support me for the next 10 years or so... I know toyota's are famous for lasting a lonnnngggg time but, is this car going to be driving the same in 8 9 years from now? If some one could help me out that would be great!
    thanks alot,
    Aaron
  • guitarzanguitarzan Member Posts: 873
    Hello guitarguru! I'm in Cleveland, and drive a GTS which has a summer rated tire as the standard tire. No good. As soon as it gets pretty cold, 50's, 40's F, the tires get hard and lose traction. As soon as it snows, forget it, the car has absolutely no traction, as the tread just fills right in with snow.

    I eventually got wise, and installed a set of Blizzak's on 15" steel wheels. Now, I can barely get the antilock to kick in on snowy or icy conditions! Slam on the brakes, the car stops like the road is dry. It pulls through several inches of snow also, as these tires are siped to the extreme, and just drop the snow from the treads, like tires should.

    I feel that sometimes the light weight of the car causes a little bit of instability. A high crosswind on the freeway makes me really concentrate on what is going on. A nasty wind is going to affect a 2700lb car much more than something with 500+ more lbs.

    Overall, I have NO concerns about going out in snowstorms. Every winter I pass SUV's that have rolled over, as I drive by without worry.

    I've got about 55,000 miles on my 2000 GTS. This winter it isn't heating up properly. I do not know if something is wrong, or if there is air in the cooling system. A mechanics check from just a couple months ago showed the levels were all good, so I'm a little concerned.

    Take a look at the gas tank door. On MOST of the Toyota's I know about, the hinges are rusting after 4-5 years or so. My gas cap was bad after E-check this year. I've never had that go bad, what a disgrace! Changed both headlight bulbs this year. Other than that, chugging along, changing oil and summer tires regularly.
  • guitarguruguitarguru Member Posts: 4
    Sounds Great! SO these Blizaks..About how much did they go for? How big is the ground clearence? Is it high enough to get through half foot snow...or more..? My house is about 10mins away from a snow mountain, and im about 6512 feet. In CO so we get pounded some times with snow. Thanks alot for your story. It really helps! I need a couple other people's opinions as well though. I don't have enough money to own more than one car...And I need something that can get me through CO snow, as well as be a celica. Is there any way? Thanks alot.
    ~Aaron
  • guitarzanguitarzan Member Posts: 873
    *Blizzaks - got a special at the time at tirerack.com, 4 tires, mounted and balanced on steel wheels, delivered, it was $600 as I recall. That is a LOT of money for me. But, it took me from 5 months of white-knuckling to complete and thorough relaxation. My heart should live longer!

    I searched Tirerack - according to my search at this time, they are sold out of steel wheels, and many of the winter tires this season :(

    *The car is EXTREMELY LOW. Just getting in and out will remind one of that. The 15" snow sizes I believe are taller than stock tires (and also cause a 1% variation in speedometer reading). After removing the summer tires, I have to jack the car up a little further to get the snow tires on. That's also with them at maximum pressure, I belive 35lbs. BUT, the car is still very LOW. If you have to clear snow and ice banks, the Celica sounds too scary buddy. :( If you consistently hit hard snow banks, you may crumple the spoiler, or even worse, punch out the radiator! Underneath is an engine shroud - keeps everything nice and clean, but tear that up, and you're looking at $200+ for both halves.

    What is the most low-slung multi-wheeler you pass by on the snow peaks daily? Flag that driver down and give them a $buck$ for some serious opinions.
  • guitarguruguitarguru Member Posts: 4
    ok man, Right now im in germany for a year, but when i get back im seriously considering this celica, I dont really have to clear snowbanks, maybe once or twice a week or so, if i totally in a [non-permissible content removed] sitiuation, and they are only 6 inches or so off the gound...I usually see a bunch of Subaru's but they are usually not that high of the ground at all. In fact ive seen ones that had extremly gigantic rims... 600 is pretty damn pricey....Well for me atleast...is there any other wheels that i could get for a bit cheaper...? If thats the only way that i can feel comfortable with my celica then ill for sure do it... thanks alot for all of your help...say how far is where you live from Canton? How do you know so much about cars? thats quite amazing!
    Thanks alot,
    Aaron
  • guitarzanguitarzan Member Posts: 873
    Yea-Subarus do look kinda low for all-terrain type vehicles, don't they?

    1) Yea, you can buy a cheaper snow tire. That's a personal preference. Our winter here is long, November through March. Today is a typical day - it is raining, and it is turning to pure ice tonight. Even on ice, the Blizzak's stop very nicely! The anti-lock barely kicks in. I went for the "safety" factor. You know you're getting old when safety is now #1. Bah!

    2) You don't have to buy wheels for the winter tires. You can put the snow tires on your existing wheels. If you have a local mechanic who doesn't charge a whole lot, that's a good option. But, you have to pay to mount and balance snow tires, then, in the spring, pay for mounting of your performance tires. I got the extra set of wheels, and I change my wheels myself, and rotate them myself, for no charge. (Except a torque wrench and a jack.)

    I don't even like anyone else mounting wheels on my car. Too many mechanics over-tighten the lug nuts. That destroys brakes, and wears other components, as it puts tons of strain on the wheel support system. My GTS manual says "74 lbs" of torque, and that's what the lugs get. :)

    3) If you buy a GT, I don't know (others here can answer) the stock tire size might be an "All Season", and can handle snow somewhat. If so, just remember, "All Season" performs on dry pavement with mediocrity, and performs on snow with mediocrity. It doesn't do anything great.

    Canton is 45 minutes south of Cleveland. Someday I will hit the Canton Football Hall of Fame. But I don't know anyone who is excited to go with me!

    Thanks for the compliment! I learned a lot as a kid. A long long time ago in high school, when it was COOL to talk about cars, I was more excited. I got 7 car magazines on my McDonald's salary at the time. And I read all the tech articles thoroughly. Bolt-on fuel injection was coming about, the Supercars were beautiful, I couldn't get enough. I'm still a techie. I read technical articles everyday not just on cars, but all the latest developments. It is good to exercise the mind! If you are excited about something, anything, I don't care what it is, read everything you can get your hands on. Lastly, the people here at Edmund's have taught me a great deal!
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    Yes, if you get a GT, the stock tire is an all-season. Mine had Potenzas - a thoroughly mediocre tire.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • peterpanpeterpan Member Posts: 120
    I used to live in Buffalo, NY, snow capital of the world. I drove 400-mile trips in my old rear-wheel drive Nissan 280Z sports car in blinding snow blizzards for my Christmas holidays.

    We are now in dry and sunny Southern California with two celica GTS in our family. They are clearly our favorites. It seems that the fun in the Celicas makes driving a lot less onerous. In fact we are guilty of inventing a lot of unecessary errants so we can take the Celicas out for drives.

    A lot of people drive Celicas and other front wheel cars in snow country. I am not aware of excessive risks driving them in snow. As long as you drive slow and exercise good caution on snow and ice, you should be safe. It's the drivers that are risky, not the cars. Cars are safe as long as drivers don't push them above safe limits for the road conditions. In fact, the FWD Celica should give you better traction than RWD in snow and ice, especially in hilly terrains.

    You would probably have ice/snow on the ground probably no more than 30 days out of the year. The remaining 335 days should be clear and enjoyable. I think you should go ahead and buy your Celica, which should last 300K miles easily under normal use. Make sure you spray heavy undercoat under the chassis to protect against corrosion.

    I am surprised to know Toyota 4runners are so unreliable. I drove a 200-mile trip in one and the ride was horrible. I would never buy one. I had an old Camry with 270K miles with little maintenance, which I was driving 95MPH without problems. The steering was solid and tracking straight, no shimmying whatsoever, eventhough I bent one axle at one time over a large pot hole.

    Go ahead and follow your heart. You only live once.
  • mytoy1mytoy1 Member Posts: 3
    I have contacted Toyota customer service and explained what I am experiencing. They had the dealership call me, but I got the same explanation as before only this time I was told that they could install "shims" at additional cost
    to me. What's a person supposed to do?
  • guitarzanguitarzan Member Posts: 873
    This is just one person's suggestions, okay?

    Service is giving the dealer every chance for the dealer to take care of you, and that's okay.

    You are responsible for the cost of the shim package. Ask what the cost is. And tell them you expect the labor is free, since they should have been installed with the pad replacement. That is the correct solution. Hard to say what the shim cost is, but it would be a small percentage of the brake job.

    If that fails, call service back, and ask them, "Is it not reasonable to expect that a brake job, including new pads, includes a shim kit, or does Toyota not manufacture OEM shims to keep Celica brakes quiet?"
  • guitarguruguitarguru Member Posts: 4
    Thanks alot for your help man! I'm pretty sure that im going to go ahead and buy this ceilica when i get back to the states. Now the only question is to get a GT or a GTS. Hey i was at the Canton hall of fame last year. Quite cool. My girlfriend as of now is living in Columbus and my grandma in Canton. So i visit there at least yearly. :D thanks alot for everything man.
    ~Aaron
  • peterpanpeterpan Member Posts: 120
    The car came with 205/50VR16 Yokohama ADVAN A680 High Performance Summer tires. The tires cost around $100 each, are very noisy and have little wet traction. After 15K miles, all 4 tires have uneven wear, eventhough I check and keep even pressure regularly. Treadwear rating is only 160 for this tire, so they are realy expected to last only 16K miles.

    I am disappointed with Yoko Advan A680 tires and will switch. I am considering the Kumho ECSTA ASX 205/50WR16 all season tire, costing about $75 each, with treadwear rating of 420. This tire should be quieter, having better we traction and last 3x longer than the Yoko.

    Tirerack's customer survey showed Advan A680 ranked 7 out of 7 HP Summer tire; meanwhile the Kumho ranked 5 out of 17 tires surveyed.

    Am very disapointed in Yokohama and Bridgestone Potanzas. A friend had Kumho ECSTA 712 tires on her GTS. The tires are much quieter and wear evenly after 10K miles.
  • guitarzanguitarzan Member Posts: 873
    I did the same thing - tried to save money with the 2nd set of tires, and bought some Kumhos. In a short period of time, 3 of the tires had broken belts. We do have a lot of pot holes, and I am very poor at avoiding them. I had to throw out the set. I cannot remember, I am thinking I had them for about a year.
  • peterpanpeterpan Member Posts: 120
    ...when backing up the car. Annoying.

    I spread a little bit high-temp brake grease on the 2 pins aross the brake pads. That stops the squeaking.

    Ideally the tires, then the brakes assembly, should be removed so grease can be spread along the pins' entire length to prevent pads from sticking. However, the brake pins are partially acessible through the holes in the wheels. You can apply a little brake grease on the pins and let the movement of the brake pads spread it during braking.
  • peterpanpeterpan Member Posts: 120
    The friend's GTS had Kumho ECSTA 712 for 15K miles. The tires still look new, with about 70% tread, and ride far smoother than mine with Yoko Advan A680, which are cupping, uneven wear and out of round, with the same mileage.

    The ride with Yoko A680 is terrible.
  • peter panpeter pan Member Posts: 75
    Chances are the halogen bulb is still good. Just the contacts are oxidized and open.

    I turned on the fog light and knock on the lens with my knuckle. The light came back on again.

    The dealer wants ~$40 for the bulb and $97 labor to install it. Dont waste your money.
  • peter panpeter pan Member Posts: 75
    Take your Celicas in the dealers for free service.
  • wscc1wscc1 Member Posts: 21
    I also only got about 18K miles on the OEM 16 inch tires on my 2000 GTS. I tried the Kumho's and didn't find much difference in any way (wear, traction, etc.) except they were significantly cheaper. I did a lot of highway driving and a good number of autocrosses (for which the car is not
    very suitable - needs more torque and a much better transmission). The tire wear seems to be a fact of life, I
    got about the same 18K miles on a set of winter tires (Michelin Artic Alpines). I am now running BFG G-Force T/A in summer and BFG Traction T/A in winters. (I, now, have no need to drive in more than light snow.) All tires are/were the OE 205/50 16 size. All seem to get about the same mileage.
  • pattiopattio Member Posts: 2
    My 2002 Celica only has 36,000 miles on it (4 years old) (mostly city driving), and I have to replace the entire clutch and flywheel for $1255. I was wondering if anyone else had a clutch go prematurely. I'm not the best manual driver, but I didn't expect that to go until much higher mileage. I don't really like the idea of having to replace this every 36,000 miles. I have had regular maintenance and annual state inspections performed on the vehicle.
  • zingerzinger Member Posts: 61
    My 2000 GTS has 49,000 miles and no clutch problems yet.

    Shifter cable broke that cost $900 but thats it.

    Thinking again about selling and getting a GTO!
  • rorrrorr Member Posts: 3,630
    Odd.

    My '00 GTS is currently at a bit over 133k miles - with the original clutch (although I'm rarely in stop'n'go traffic).

    36k seems WAY early to me. Are you lightly resting your foot on the clutch as you drive?
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    Must be slipping the clutch way too much. First thing after it is fixed, have someone who gets at least 125k out of a clutch ride with you to check your clutch skills.
  • cjraycjray Member Posts: 2
    I know this is an old post, but I have the same problem. 2000 Celica that has had great maintenance, but is now burning 3 quarts of oil on a 300 mile trip. No leaks, no smoke, and no oil at the end of our trips.

    Was the ultimate solution an engine replacement? If so, I am going to get rid of this thing now. Ideas?
  • guitarzanguitarzan Member Posts: 873
    So you have removed the underlying engine shroud, and inspected the undercarriage? (Oil filter, drain plug to start with.)
  • pattiopattio Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the input. the clutch has been fixed, and i am having someone observe my driving to make improvements-- the new clutch does "feel" different than the original factory one, so we'll see. It turned out to cost 1,100, but ouch!
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    Good to hear it's fixed, and that you are correcting your clutch habits. Let us know how things are going or if you have any questions. There are also some good websites to help you with driving a stick correctly to avoid spending the $1,100!! Love the GTS Celica, by the way!
  • rorrrorr Member Posts: 3,630
    "....is now burning 3 quarts of oil on a 300 mile trip. No leaks, no smoke, and no oil at the end of our trips."

    :confuse:

    Consuming a quart of oil every 100 miles yet it DOESN'T leak or smoke?

    Before you assume an engine replacement, you need to figure out just WHERE the oil is going.....
  • fppdrummerfppdrummer Member Posts: 4
    Would getting an AEM cold air intake and a performance exhaust system for some extra horsepower hurt my gas mileage on my 2000 toyota celica GT 5-spd?
  • rorrrorr Member Posts: 3,630
    "Would getting an AEM cold air intake and a performance exhaust system for some extra horsepower hurt my gas mileage...?"

    Hard to say.

    On one hand, if the engine is breathing better (getting more airflow), then the ECU should adjust by injecting more fuel (so the engine doesn't run lean). The additional air intake coupled with the additional fuel makes the additional hp.

    On the other hand, the engine may be more efficient since you are making more hp at the same throttle setting so can use less throttle (gas) to maintain the same speed when driving.

    OR, all that newfound power may entice you into spending more time in the throttle, rapping around town constantly buzzing the motor up to redline just to hear your own exhaust.

    All of which is a fancy way of saying "I have no idea". :blush:

    Let us know how it goes... :)
  • sheroosheroo Member Posts: 9
    hey peterpan,

    both me and my wife graduated from SUNY buffalo last march. we got a new 2003 GT for her and she loves it. she had a sentra and a corolla before that but for some reason she found the GT much easier to drive on snow/ice infact she had to pick me up a couple of times (I had a 300,000 mile corolla). We even went for snow camping in it (though obviously not off road). In my experience if the road is decent and u dont step on the gas hard the GT works very well. We made the trip from NY to San francisco (current place of residence) in March 2005 with a car packed to the brim. Had snow from NY to the seirras on the I-80 and never once did it go out of control. We did about 800 miles a day.
  • peterpanpeterpan Member Posts: 120
    Hi Sheroo,

    Cool. I went to SUNY Buffalo for a couple semesters myself. It's the pizza and beer capital of the world.

    If you made it with a loaded Celica through the ice and snow in the steep mountains of the Sierra Nevada, then you can make it anywhere. The FWD should give you plenty of traction on snow.

    I love ice camping too. It's a lot of ice in a beer bucket on the beach down in Mexico, hehehe.

    The Celica should be much easier to handle in any road condition than the Sentra and Corrolla, wouldnt you think? Once you drive the Celica, it's hard to go to any other car, well, except may be the new $60K Lotus Exige or Elise, which use the same engine and transmission as the Celica GTS.

    The Exige has mid-engine and rear drive, bonded aluminum frame, fiberglass body. It actually came pretty close on the Detroit's test track to the new Porsche Cayman S. Considering the Exige has 1.8L/180HP IL 4 compared to the Cayman S' 3.4L/295HP flat 6, that's pretty cool.

    Consumer Report this year rates Toyota/Lexus as one of the most reliable brand, whereas Porsche, MBZ, Audi, VW...are rated the least reliable. My friend who owns a Carrera was always complaining about the little problems he had with his Carrera that usually cost at least $5K and a few weeks in the shop. Paying high prices and constantly paying high bills for repairs? I hate when that happens.

    You should have plenty of fun with the Celica on the hills of SF and never have to worry about the ice and snow again. You should take a drive on US highway 1 along the coast from SF down to LA to enjoy the car and the majestic sceneries of the coast line.

    Have fun and take care.
  • peterpanpeterpan Member Posts: 120
    I bought the Kumho ASX and notice no difference in the handling of the car compaerd to the stock Yoko Advan 680, and I drive very aggressively. I am always pushing the GTS' performance to get my money's worth.

    The Kumho ASX is much smoother and quieter compared to the Yoko.
  • ahiggs01ahiggs01 Member Posts: 2
    Wow!! I am dealing with the exact same issue. I have a 2000 Celica GT and it is burning 4 Qts of oil in about 700 miles. I have the Service Manager involved at the dealership and he is floored. They can't figure out what the problem is without taking the engine apart. I'm not leaking oil, not smoking nor is the engine knocking. He believe's it might be something with the piston rod's. He even mentioned contacting Toyota to see if they would actually help with the repairs. Has anyone found any further information on the problem? I am thinking about selling, but if this is occuring with more Celica's ... I'm thinking a recall is in order!
  • rorrrorr Member Posts: 3,630
    "I have a 2000 Celica GT and it is burning 4 Qts of oil in about 700 miles. I have the Service Manager involved at the dealership and he is floored. They can't figure out what the problem is without taking the engine apart. I'm not leaking oil, not smoking nor is the engine knocking."

    Out of curiousity, how long has it been doing this? I still can't figure out how it could consume a GALLON of oil without leaking or smoking?

    The oil has to go SOMEWHERE.
  • wulveswulves Member Posts: 3
    :confuse: since I did a tune up on this vehicle It won't idle,I figured a vacuum hose ,or fuel filter.I can't locate any fuel line or filter ,or carburator,but I guess it dosen't have one,I am not a auto savvy person but do know enough to just get by,can someone help ?? :cry:
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    If it's an '84, it has EFI, so there's no carburetor. The fuel filter is not under the hood, it is in the fuel line back near the tank, and it is a MAJOR pain in the butt to change. Toyota does not specify replacing it on a regular basis, but only if it becomes clogged.

    HOWEVER, if you are not auto-savvy and you did your own tune-up, I am guessing there is a HIGH likelihood that something you did has caused the problem! Do you mean that it was idling fine before you did anything? In that case, definitely.

    Back-track and review the things you did, make sure you put things back together properly, etc. Share with us exactly what your tune-up consisted of.

    Edit...I see that your post was some time ago, so perhaps you are no longer checking here...I hope you got your car running properly though! :-)

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • rubythevixenrubythevixen Member Posts: 1
    I admit I don't know as much about my vechile as I should. I usually let the shops deal with it. However in the past year my 2000 Toyota Celica GT has been in the shop 3 times. I also have the problem of missing oil. I once when on a 400 mile trip. When I got back (total 800+ miles) I had absolutely no oil. My car doesn't smoke or have an apparent oil leak. The oil light doesn't even come on. I only knew to check the oil, because when I had me brakes replaced the guy said that I may have an oil leak, yet he couldn't find any oil in the under carriage or anything. He asked if I have some on my driveway. I of course said no. I have a concrete drive that I would have noticed a big glob of oil. So I don't know what;s wrong. As of yesterday my car is not moving. I made some sort of ripping sound like the tire had blown out(but it didn't) I sounded like it was coming from the brakes, but then the check engine light came on. Any suggestions as to what happened.
  • guitarzanguitarzan Member Posts: 873
    How do you know there is no oil?

    It is highly suspect that the oil is empty, but the oil light has not come on, AND your engine has not seized yet, AND there is no trace of a leak, AND it is not blowing smoke. All of these add up to = impossible.

    How about this: Is the dipstick too short?
  • rorrrorr Member Posts: 3,630
    I'm confused about something.

    We've had at least 3 individuals, ALL with '00 model Celica GT's, come into this forum complaining about WILDLY excessive oil consumption (4 quarts in just a few hundred miles for one individual if memory serves), and yet NONE of these folks note ANY smoke or oil leaks?

    And then, after 1 or 2 posts, they always disappear, never to return to let anyone know what the problem was? Never any explanation about how the oil can just "dematerialize" out of their engine? :confuse:

    "...the oil light has not come on, AND your engine has not seized yet, AND there is no trace of a leak, AND it is not blowing smoke. All of these add up to = impossible."

    Exactly.
  • ahiggs01ahiggs01 Member Posts: 2
    It's not impossible. I was about to trade-in the old Celica .... when I thought I would give it one more try to figure out what is going on. The Service Manager decided to contact the Toyota home office, they agreed to replace the short block with no charge. They could not tell me what the problem was, because Toyota instructed the Service Center to replace the short block and send back the old one. I am not losing oil any longer and it runs great. I will forever own a Toyota. They do stand behind their products and service!
  • rorrrorr Member Posts: 3,630
    Hey! One of those folks with the excessive oil consumption is back!

    I'm glad that Toyota fixed the issue; but I'm still curious about how an engine can consume a gallon of oil in 700 miles WITHOUT smoking or leaking?

    Logically, the oil has to go SOMEWHERE. If it isn't all over the ground (leaking), or out the tailpipe (smoking), the oil MUST still be somewhere in the engine. Right? The only question is where.
  • guitarzanguitarzan Member Posts: 873
    AHA! Toyota has discovered a used motor oil dissipation process, which leaves NO TRACE of any pollutants whatsoever. They're hiding the engines that did it, and will soon build a tall, tall factory, and make BILLIONS of dollars with their new "Instant Waste Removal System", or IWRS.

    Sorry :) I couldn't resist!
  • peterpanpeterpan Member Posts: 120
    My 01 GTS once a while would momentarily lose the speedometer, at the same time, the manual sport shifting mode would stop working. Usually it would return to normal within 1 to 5 minutes.

    Anybody had the same problem and know how to fix it?
  • swtasscarsswtasscars Member Posts: 1
    i have a 1990 celica gts manual 5spd...it has over 170000 miles on it....me an my dad have done everything we can think of and dont know what is wrong with it...lately it has been hard to start really it wont start unless we pop the clutch...then after it has time to get warmed up a bit it starts like missing but like 10x worse and it doesnt not went to go over 1 1/2 grand or 1500 rpms and it is bogging down real low and doesnt accelerate for [non-permissible content removed]....it doesnt want to do nothing and eventually the rpms drop below the idle speed and stalls....we cant think of anything that would make it act like this....need help bad it has a serious problem that needs to get fixed...does any1 have a 90 celica gts that has experienced this same problem or known any1 that has..............thanks if you help me out
  • wulveswulves Member Posts: 3
    Thank You I agree ,and the Toy is sitting in the drive in the same state.I have repeately gone over and over that engine,I even put the old plugs back in thinking ,maybe the Champion plugs were for another model.Here is what I did ,Toy running before tune up ,but reall bad ,so I saw the cap sparking ,and went a bought the cap ,which has the plug wires attached,a rotor ,and plugs ,organized some runaway wires sitting on the engine and then ,well here we are .It cranks,it runs as long as I give it gas,if I take my foot off the petal it stalls out within seconds.So I am thinking ,clogged filter ,fuel pump?,I dislodged a wire while organizing them ,crossed plug wires ,but checked that out with every combo I could change them too.So where do I go from here ,a garage ? could it be a sensor ( emmission )?
    HELP !!!! Thanks Jimmy ,can you email your thoughts on this to wulves@aol.com Thank You Jimmy :confuse:
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