Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
You are in gear (whether it is 2nd, 3rd, 4th) and the tach suddenly drops from 4k rpm to 3k rpm WITHOUT any drop in vehicle speed?
The tach is either malfunctioning (reporting drop in rpm where there ISN'T one) or the tach is working fine. Since you report the engine going 'soft', I was assuming that the drop in rpms was real and the 'softness' was simply the engine making less torque at 3k rpm than at 4k.
However, if the tach is malfunctioning, there is your problem.
If the tach is working fine, you MUST have some slippage SOMEWHERE in the drivetrain. That is the ONLY way for you to be IN GEAR and experience a drop in engine rpms without a drop in vehicle speed. I can think of only one place where you can have slippage in the drivetrain: the clutch.
High gears are the best test of this. Get to 50 mph, put it in 6th and floor it. If it immediately revs up without accelerating, you have a slipping clutch.
The ONLY other thing that could be happening if revs drop from 4K to 3K in gear without loss of speed is a malfunctioning tach.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
The dealership told me the break pads "float" and that is the reason for the clinky noise. They also said it would clear up after collecting dirt, dust , ice and snow. I think I've been given a "snow job" about this.I'm no mechanic and will probably have to go to someother shop to have the breaks looked at. I sure would like to be more knowedgeable on the subject.
I originally said I didn't think that was the issue, because you mentioned this is a DEALER repair, and I thought that car manufacturers always use retaining clips in their OEM parts. I checked out google newsgroups with "celica brake pad", and one person posted that the Celicas have several retainers, and they are packaged separate from the replacement pads.
Aftermarket pad kits many times do not have retaining clips. Those companies probably do not want to spend the effort manufacturing small clips, so they just don't include them with the pads.
The quote you have, about the brake pads sticking to the calipers after they get dirty, that may be theoretically possible. More than likely they'll continue rattling.
Call another Toyota dealer, ask for the service department, and get their advice. Or you can find a 1800 number for Toyota's Customer Service, and ask them. You'll get a non-biased answer.
When this is said and done, I will be curious if
1) The dealer for some reason left out retainers
2) The dealer uses aftermarket parts rather than Toyota parts.
3) Retainers are not available for the OEM replacement pads.
Best guess: #1. They did a "quick and easy" job to maximize profit, and didn't do it right.
thanks alot,
Aaron
I eventually got wise, and installed a set of Blizzak's on 15" steel wheels. Now, I can barely get the antilock to kick in on snowy or icy conditions! Slam on the brakes, the car stops like the road is dry. It pulls through several inches of snow also, as these tires are siped to the extreme, and just drop the snow from the treads, like tires should.
I feel that sometimes the light weight of the car causes a little bit of instability. A high crosswind on the freeway makes me really concentrate on what is going on. A nasty wind is going to affect a 2700lb car much more than something with 500+ more lbs.
Overall, I have NO concerns about going out in snowstorms. Every winter I pass SUV's that have rolled over, as I drive by without worry.
I've got about 55,000 miles on my 2000 GTS. This winter it isn't heating up properly. I do not know if something is wrong, or if there is air in the cooling system. A mechanics check from just a couple months ago showed the levels were all good, so I'm a little concerned.
Take a look at the gas tank door. On MOST of the Toyota's I know about, the hinges are rusting after 4-5 years or so. My gas cap was bad after E-check this year. I've never had that go bad, what a disgrace! Changed both headlight bulbs this year. Other than that, chugging along, changing oil and summer tires regularly.
~Aaron
I searched Tirerack - according to my search at this time, they are sold out of steel wheels, and many of the winter tires this season
*The car is EXTREMELY LOW. Just getting in and out will remind one of that. The 15" snow sizes I believe are taller than stock tires (and also cause a 1% variation in speedometer reading). After removing the summer tires, I have to jack the car up a little further to get the snow tires on. That's also with them at maximum pressure, I belive 35lbs. BUT, the car is still very LOW. If you have to clear snow and ice banks, the Celica sounds too scary buddy. If you consistently hit hard snow banks, you may crumple the spoiler, or even worse, punch out the radiator! Underneath is an engine shroud - keeps everything nice and clean, but tear that up, and you're looking at $200+ for both halves.
What is the most low-slung multi-wheeler you pass by on the snow peaks daily? Flag that driver down and give them a $buck$ for some serious opinions.
Thanks alot,
Aaron
1) Yea, you can buy a cheaper snow tire. That's a personal preference. Our winter here is long, November through March. Today is a typical day - it is raining, and it is turning to pure ice tonight. Even on ice, the Blizzak's stop very nicely! The anti-lock barely kicks in. I went for the "safety" factor. You know you're getting old when safety is now #1. Bah!
2) You don't have to buy wheels for the winter tires. You can put the snow tires on your existing wheels. If you have a local mechanic who doesn't charge a whole lot, that's a good option. But, you have to pay to mount and balance snow tires, then, in the spring, pay for mounting of your performance tires. I got the extra set of wheels, and I change my wheels myself, and rotate them myself, for no charge. (Except a torque wrench and a jack.)
I don't even like anyone else mounting wheels on my car. Too many mechanics over-tighten the lug nuts. That destroys brakes, and wears other components, as it puts tons of strain on the wheel support system. My GTS manual says "74 lbs" of torque, and that's what the lugs get.
3) If you buy a GT, I don't know (others here can answer) the stock tire size might be an "All Season", and can handle snow somewhat. If so, just remember, "All Season" performs on dry pavement with mediocrity, and performs on snow with mediocrity. It doesn't do anything great.
Canton is 45 minutes south of Cleveland. Someday I will hit the Canton Football Hall of Fame. But I don't know anyone who is excited to go with me!
Thanks for the compliment! I learned a lot as a kid. A long long time ago in high school, when it was COOL to talk about cars, I was more excited. I got 7 car magazines on my McDonald's salary at the time. And I read all the tech articles thoroughly. Bolt-on fuel injection was coming about, the Supercars were beautiful, I couldn't get enough. I'm still a techie. I read technical articles everyday not just on cars, but all the latest developments. It is good to exercise the mind! If you are excited about something, anything, I don't care what it is, read everything you can get your hands on. Lastly, the people here at Edmund's have taught me a great deal!
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
We are now in dry and sunny Southern California with two celica GTS in our family. They are clearly our favorites. It seems that the fun in the Celicas makes driving a lot less onerous. In fact we are guilty of inventing a lot of unecessary errants so we can take the Celicas out for drives.
A lot of people drive Celicas and other front wheel cars in snow country. I am not aware of excessive risks driving them in snow. As long as you drive slow and exercise good caution on snow and ice, you should be safe. It's the drivers that are risky, not the cars. Cars are safe as long as drivers don't push them above safe limits for the road conditions. In fact, the FWD Celica should give you better traction than RWD in snow and ice, especially in hilly terrains.
You would probably have ice/snow on the ground probably no more than 30 days out of the year. The remaining 335 days should be clear and enjoyable. I think you should go ahead and buy your Celica, which should last 300K miles easily under normal use. Make sure you spray heavy undercoat under the chassis to protect against corrosion.
I am surprised to know Toyota 4runners are so unreliable. I drove a 200-mile trip in one and the ride was horrible. I would never buy one. I had an old Camry with 270K miles with little maintenance, which I was driving 95MPH without problems. The steering was solid and tracking straight, no shimmying whatsoever, eventhough I bent one axle at one time over a large pot hole.
Go ahead and follow your heart. You only live once.
to me. What's a person supposed to do?
Service is giving the dealer every chance for the dealer to take care of you, and that's okay.
You are responsible for the cost of the shim package. Ask what the cost is. And tell them you expect the labor is free, since they should have been installed with the pad replacement. That is the correct solution. Hard to say what the shim cost is, but it would be a small percentage of the brake job.
If that fails, call service back, and ask them, "Is it not reasonable to expect that a brake job, including new pads, includes a shim kit, or does Toyota not manufacture OEM shims to keep Celica brakes quiet?"
~Aaron
I am disappointed with Yoko Advan A680 tires and will switch. I am considering the Kumho ECSTA ASX 205/50WR16 all season tire, costing about $75 each, with treadwear rating of 420. This tire should be quieter, having better we traction and last 3x longer than the Yoko.
Tirerack's customer survey showed Advan A680 ranked 7 out of 7 HP Summer tire; meanwhile the Kumho ranked 5 out of 17 tires surveyed.
Am very disapointed in Yokohama and Bridgestone Potanzas. A friend had Kumho ECSTA 712 tires on her GTS. The tires are much quieter and wear evenly after 10K miles.
I spread a little bit high-temp brake grease on the 2 pins aross the brake pads. That stops the squeaking.
Ideally the tires, then the brakes assembly, should be removed so grease can be spread along the pins' entire length to prevent pads from sticking. However, the brake pins are partially acessible through the holes in the wheels. You can apply a little brake grease on the pins and let the movement of the brake pads spread it during braking.
The ride with Yoko A680 is terrible.
I turned on the fog light and knock on the lens with my knuckle. The light came back on again.
The dealer wants ~$40 for the bulb and $97 labor to install it. Dont waste your money.
very suitable - needs more torque and a much better transmission). The tire wear seems to be a fact of life, I
got about the same 18K miles on a set of winter tires (Michelin Artic Alpines). I am now running BFG G-Force T/A in summer and BFG Traction T/A in winters. (I, now, have no need to drive in more than light snow.) All tires are/were the OE 205/50 16 size. All seem to get about the same mileage.
Shifter cable broke that cost $900 but thats it.
Thinking again about selling and getting a GTO!
My '00 GTS is currently at a bit over 133k miles - with the original clutch (although I'm rarely in stop'n'go traffic).
36k seems WAY early to me. Are you lightly resting your foot on the clutch as you drive?
Was the ultimate solution an engine replacement? If so, I am going to get rid of this thing now. Ideas?
:confuse:
Consuming a quart of oil every 100 miles yet it DOESN'T leak or smoke?
Before you assume an engine replacement, you need to figure out just WHERE the oil is going.....
Hard to say.
On one hand, if the engine is breathing better (getting more airflow), then the ECU should adjust by injecting more fuel (so the engine doesn't run lean). The additional air intake coupled with the additional fuel makes the additional hp.
On the other hand, the engine may be more efficient since you are making more hp at the same throttle setting so can use less throttle (gas) to maintain the same speed when driving.
OR, all that newfound power may entice you into spending more time in the throttle, rapping around town constantly buzzing the motor up to redline just to hear your own exhaust.
All of which is a fancy way of saying "I have no idea".
Let us know how it goes...
both me and my wife graduated from SUNY buffalo last march. we got a new 2003 GT for her and she loves it. she had a sentra and a corolla before that but for some reason she found the GT much easier to drive on snow/ice infact she had to pick me up a couple of times (I had a 300,000 mile corolla). We even went for snow camping in it (though obviously not off road). In my experience if the road is decent and u dont step on the gas hard the GT works very well. We made the trip from NY to San francisco (current place of residence) in March 2005 with a car packed to the brim. Had snow from NY to the seirras on the I-80 and never once did it go out of control. We did about 800 miles a day.
Cool. I went to SUNY Buffalo for a couple semesters myself. It's the pizza and beer capital of the world.
If you made it with a loaded Celica through the ice and snow in the steep mountains of the Sierra Nevada, then you can make it anywhere. The FWD should give you plenty of traction on snow.
I love ice camping too. It's a lot of ice in a beer bucket on the beach down in Mexico, hehehe.
The Celica should be much easier to handle in any road condition than the Sentra and Corrolla, wouldnt you think? Once you drive the Celica, it's hard to go to any other car, well, except may be the new $60K Lotus Exige or Elise, which use the same engine and transmission as the Celica GTS.
The Exige has mid-engine and rear drive, bonded aluminum frame, fiberglass body. It actually came pretty close on the Detroit's test track to the new Porsche Cayman S. Considering the Exige has 1.8L/180HP IL 4 compared to the Cayman S' 3.4L/295HP flat 6, that's pretty cool.
Consumer Report this year rates Toyota/Lexus as one of the most reliable brand, whereas Porsche, MBZ, Audi, VW...are rated the least reliable. My friend who owns a Carrera was always complaining about the little problems he had with his Carrera that usually cost at least $5K and a few weeks in the shop. Paying high prices and constantly paying high bills for repairs? I hate when that happens.
You should have plenty of fun with the Celica on the hills of SF and never have to worry about the ice and snow again. You should take a drive on US highway 1 along the coast from SF down to LA to enjoy the car and the majestic sceneries of the coast line.
Have fun and take care.
The Kumho ASX is much smoother and quieter compared to the Yoko.
Out of curiousity, how long has it been doing this? I still can't figure out how it could consume a GALLON of oil without leaking or smoking?
The oil has to go SOMEWHERE.
HOWEVER, if you are not auto-savvy and you did your own tune-up, I am guessing there is a HIGH likelihood that something you did has caused the problem! Do you mean that it was idling fine before you did anything? In that case, definitely.
Back-track and review the things you did, make sure you put things back together properly, etc. Share with us exactly what your tune-up consisted of.
Edit...I see that your post was some time ago, so perhaps you are no longer checking here...I hope you got your car running properly though! :-)
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
It is highly suspect that the oil is empty, but the oil light has not come on, AND your engine has not seized yet, AND there is no trace of a leak, AND it is not blowing smoke. All of these add up to = impossible.
How about this: Is the dipstick too short?
We've had at least 3 individuals, ALL with '00 model Celica GT's, come into this forum complaining about WILDLY excessive oil consumption (4 quarts in just a few hundred miles for one individual if memory serves), and yet NONE of these folks note ANY smoke or oil leaks?
And then, after 1 or 2 posts, they always disappear, never to return to let anyone know what the problem was? Never any explanation about how the oil can just "dematerialize" out of their engine? :confuse:
"...the oil light has not come on, AND your engine has not seized yet, AND there is no trace of a leak, AND it is not blowing smoke. All of these add up to = impossible."
Exactly.
I'm glad that Toyota fixed the issue; but I'm still curious about how an engine can consume a gallon of oil in 700 miles WITHOUT smoking or leaking?
Logically, the oil has to go SOMEWHERE. If it isn't all over the ground (leaking), or out the tailpipe (smoking), the oil MUST still be somewhere in the engine. Right? The only question is where.
Sorry I couldn't resist!
Anybody had the same problem and know how to fix it?
HELP !!!! Thanks Jimmy ,can you email your thoughts on this to wulves@aol.com Thank You Jimmy :confuse: