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Comments
I want to fix a broken lug.
Can my settings be changed somehow?
If you have not done this before and never used a press before, find someone who can do it for you. Use that press the wrong way and you are in serious trouble.
Just to verify the basics again after replacing the distributor: I am getting spark at the plug, and using the ol' screwdriver-as-stethoscope trick, I found the injectors are indeed ticking away *. As far as timing goes, after retracing my steps, I should point out the following:
Mistakes I probably made with re-installing the timing belt, after I replaced the water pump (earlier this summer): timing belt reinstallation.Mistakes I probably made with installing the new distributor: distributor installation.
* = If the plugs smell of gas, can't it be assumed that (1) the injectors are working, and (2) the timing is off (meaning gas but no ignition?) Anyway, the plugs smell of gas. I found that out when I sprayed starting fluid in the cylinders to see if it would run a bit for me, which it didn't.
As always, thanks to girlcarbuilder and 91323vic for your patience and help. Stopping and starting this project has contributed to my oversights - some of them critical I know.
Very good on the alternative fuel source test. Spraying starting fluid and a no start is a dead ringer for a timing problem!
You have clicking at fuel injectors and gas smell at the plugs...I strongly suspect we are dealing with timing just based on that. Now answer this question for me. Did the car run before you changed the timing belt? If so, I strongly suspect that timing is off at the valves and we still have to question ignition timing as well since its timing is set off of the camshaft. As you are beginning to see. Proper tools are needed to get this right the first time and in a reasonable time. Proper diagnosis leads you to a proper conclusion as to where to look for trouble. Otherwise you wind up chasing your tail looking for ghosts that are not there. Happy Halloween.
One way we all learn, the hard way. Answer my question so we can get to the next step.
It ran but I haven't been driving it, so it wasn't run a lot. I only ran the engine to do other things, like backflush the cooling system.
When I originally took the timing belt off duing the water pump replacement, I made my own marks (based on someone else's advice), was dead careful not to move the pullies, and reinstalled the timing belt based on the marks I'd made. I didn't have a manual at the time so I just did what I was told. Anyway, I guess that method doesn't guarantee you'll have proper timing again, eh.
Since the new distributor is, for now, in a significantly different position than the old one was (assuming 1/4-3/8" is significant), is that enough by itself to deduce that the camshaft and timing pullies aren't aligned to the timing marks? If I take the timing cover off and everything *is* in alignment, *then* what do I do?
As you have learned, reminds me of me at times working on a no budget that not the right tools/info wastes a lot of time. So much for time versus money! Been there, done that.
Okay, if the timing belt is off, it would be a tooth or so and that is it. That can be a real problem long term. You are either right on it or very close. The timing technique you used on the distributor is called by the old timers "road timing." Not a final solution, but a technique used often to rough in the timing to get a vehicle being put back together started. You still need a timing light to final set the timing.
So make this simple. Use the book for reference to get the correct marks. Either buy one or check one out of the library. First remove the upper timing cover. Set the top mark in place by doing the following. Make sure the ignition is off. Only turn the crankshaft by hand in the same direction the engine turns to set that top mark. The bottom mark should line up with 0 or TDC whichever is on the bottom cover mark. One the bottom gear on this engine, TDC mark is the same as the marks on the timing cover. That is usually the case. On the top mark, I have used a very small screw driver shaft to line up the tooth or valley that the mark on the gear is on lines up with the mark on the engine. Eyes can easily fool you and you could be off a tooth. Oh, the belt life is 60K miles. Don't push it, because if it breaks on this engine, the pistons will hit the valves. Cheap replacement belts are not worth it. Refer to my other posts about belt changes if you need to change it.
Any way, after you verify the gear timing marks, then use the timing light to final set the ignition timing. You may need further instruction on how to use that light.
I read that this engine is the non-interference type (link: Mazda B series.) Are you sure about the piston-valve crash scenario? I thought that wasn't a concern with these.
That does not mean that belt breaking/slipping will never cause serious damage. Sometimes the heads are milled, and thus the valves and pistons are closer together.
So... it is always a concern.
One rule of thumb I exercise because I have gotten incorrect info in the past, if it has a timing belt, treat it as an interference engine! You can never go wrong with this. Not to mention, it gives you practice for when you deal with one!
1978 Mazda; 323; DX; 1.6L.
Wanted to get an opinion on the difficulty of replacing the clutch on this vehicle. Have never done it on a front wheel drive vehicle before but a few times on rear wheel driven cars.
Any suggestions on a quality clutch kit?
Thank you,
Henry
Do you mean replace the whole unit - i mean the part that actually goes into the engine? Sounds like i have the same issue - no spark and I've replaced everything except the distributor
Mark the distributor location before you pull it off otherwise you'll need to adjust the timing once you put it back on.
You may be able to just replace the sensor but I'm not sure. Replacing the entire distributor may be the only possibility.
Guys, heads up. This is a very old problem on these cars. Do a search on distributor at the top of this section. I have written a lot on it. Everything from removal, cleaning to controlling excessive oil flow is there. Oh, excessive oil flow is the number one reason for no spark!
Good luck. You master this problem, you have mastered one of the biggest pains in the 323 line up!
I turned the car off and coasted off the freeway and tried twice to reignite the engine in third gear going about 40 mph. The car sputtered but little or no power. Steam started rising out of the hood as I slowed down. Water appeared all over the engine when I raised the hood.
It took the car an hour to cool off.
Oil looks OK and the electrical is fine but it will not start. Starter tuns over but there is no sign of ignition at all. The tow truck driver suggested checking to see if the distributor is dry. I don't know how to even begin taking off the cap and my manual for the Mazda 323 is very limited in description.
Is it easy to just take off the distributor cap and allow any moisture to dry out? Any thing else I should check?
1987, 323, DX.
How are the front rotors removed from this vehicle. I'm getting conflicting instructions from my Chilton manual. One part says to remove caliper and then just slip the rotors off. Another section is telling me that I have to remove the whole knuckle assembly along with the hub, and bearings, and rotor and bring it in to a machine shop because it involves a bunch of specialized tools. Very confusing!
Anyone done this job?
Thank you,
Henry
Still in service. Now currently is being alternated in and out of service every 6 months with the newer cars. Service period is during the winter months. Running 10-15K a year presently.
Overall, it has been a good unit but with higher than normal for Japanese vehicle requirements for service. Problem areas recently have been a poor connection that developed in the primary starter system. Negative battery terminal cable to transmission. Added another cable from negative on battery right to a starter motor bolt. It is also difficult to get a decent starter from the supply house. Had to make my own terminals for cable. No big deal there. Fires right up now.
Earlier posts show that this car is on second engine and tranny. Engine changed at 140K and tranny at 250K. Swapped tranny for a five speed. That is still the same status. Still on synthetic oil, and next to no oil leaks from engine. Tranny tends to have to have output shafts seals replaced. I still have one on my to do list. 2nd A/c is an aftermarket unit from factoryaire.com. It has to be gassed each beginning of when the heat comes in. A little slime in the older tires....rolling right along. Every else is regular maintenance.
Current materials being tested on this vehicle. Slime in one tire. Silicone spray on cv boots.
No, I would not buy another Mazda at this point.
Other than that, just trying to suck the last good mile out of it.
Mainly safety was an issue for myself.
The security light is not flashing; it is off. It should be flashing to indicate that the immobilizer system is activated.
When the key is turned and the ignition is ON, the security light is flashing - strong light. Turning the key further on to START does not start the engine.
According to the alternative procedure for deactivating the immobilizer, the key shall in short be turned on for ignition five time. Herein after one should wait for a number of flashes on the security light. The problem is that the security light is not flashing at all.
Have any experienced a similar problem? Any tips & tricks are welcome.
Thank you.
Kind regards,
Viking88
Papoh3---
Now, according to the factory wiring manual, it appears to have a wiring harness going to the front lower part of the transmission. I walked out and looked at the spare unit here. There is a switch there that you can reach from under neath. Also there is another switch near the shifter, I suspect it may be the netraul safety switch? Odd. Never had to deal with it in 314K miles.
Anyway, I checked the circuit layout. It has fuse, switch and light bulbs...period and simple enough! So if you can light the bulbs with a jumper and have 12 volts at the cut wire from underneath, good. Two conductors involved. You may have to come up with some kind of tab connectors, male/female as it applies. I recommend you soldier it and cover with heat shrink tubing. Before applying 12 volts to the back lights, you may want to be sure with an ohm meter that nothing is shorted out in the back.
Every time I bring her out she is happy to hit the bricks and run. When I put the cruise on.....she just purrs right along just fine. I expect she will easily hit 30 years of age and still be very serviceable. The only reason she has a local service restriction is because of her age and parts availability. She is very capable of hitting open interstate.
I met one of her sisters recently in Midwest City, OK. Just like her at 189K on original engine. Also a 5 speed. We have been sold on that driveline compliment for years now. 1.5/1.6 liter with a five speed. Even looking in junkyards, that is what i see that lasts and lasts. I would be surprised if you told me you had an automatic after all of these years without a major overhaul of the tranny.
Keep her.....check my old posts. I have factory manuals. You will find a lot written about the 86-89 years. A lot applies to the newer years as well. I still respond at times.
RIP to the above author car, "Little Blue" Our gray one now sports a blue hood after it took a deer out to lunch! I would rather use a smaller bullet next time!
Girlcarbuilder
It does have auto tranny, but, not much over 110k and very tight. Temp sensitive to shift into overdrive when cold...and maybe some little periods on freeway. Infrequent, yet reoccurring.
Must be 15 yrs since purchase @$500. I found some parts auction years back and stocked up slowly and installed for $200. and then the common distributor (sensor?) I forget but, only problems. 86,000 @ purchase.
Funny as I just noted post in e-mail as I was talking to him about the car...
It was working fine went to the store, came back 3 hours later wouldn't start. We've checked all the wires to ensure nothing was not connected. Any ideas?
Also, try putting into the search engine in this forum.....distributor, no start, no spark if you know for sure there is no spark. To test for spark, take a plug wire off, install on a new plug and lay near something metal that is grounded. Do not hold or touch while cranking, it could be the very last thing you do! Look closely at the plug end for a spark. If it sparks, ignition system is not your problem.
I took it to a mechanic (that had a high rating on Yelp) who after 1 1/2 weeks, basically did everything I did and is charging me 130 for diagnosis. He said there are 4 things that could be causing the no spark the ignition coil , pickup coil, ECU, or distributor.
We both swapped out the ignition coil box and pick up coil he did swap out the distributor still nothing. He's now sending me home with my car still not working , 130 bill and suggestion to go to local Pick and pull and get an ECU.
Does this sound accurate to you? BTW we did the spark plug test and it had a spark. Think the ECU is behind the dash, he told me it was under the carpet on passenger side. Thank you for any help to get my lil zippy back on the road.
Oh one more thing, the Mechanic stated, if it were the timing we'd hear this loud sound when turning the key.
Not necessarily. The sound he is referring to is pistons hitting valves. If engine damage has happened, you may not hear it any more. Hopefully the timing is not an issue. If it is, hopefully just jumped a tooth or so. Not enough to start, but not enough to do major engine damage. This is the last thing to look at.
Do this next......Verify consistent spark at plug. If it is there, then check the fuel pump. If it is original, it is a very good candidate for a problem.
Next time you go to crank the car, remove whatever needed to get to fuel pump. If a sedan, most likely rear seat. Have some one turn the key on while your ear is very close to fuel tank. Listen for the pump to pressurize. If you can not hear it....hello you may very well have your problem! Hopefully the "mechanic" set your timing back. Not likely since he did not get it running. Oh, well, one step at a time. Some of us old timers scribe line up marks on distributor cars to avoid that fun.
"The spark isn't getting created to get to the plugs. Besides the wiring and the ECU, we've replaced everything that controls/creates spark" Your Thoughts...
He continues with telling me where to find an ECU. I told him to recheck the plugs. Though I've checked him out on a local ratings website, I'm begining to think he wrote his own reviews.
_Well, Girlcarbuilder, I'm bout ready to throw in the towel. I've replaced the ECU, still no start; tried a new Fuse for Fuel pump/injector, still no start; Fuel pump can be heard humming sound, per my son and we've rechecked the spark plugs...spark. Battery fine. Not sure what else I could check as to why it's Turns but doesn't start. Any more thoughts?
Fuel pump running, engine turns, spark is fine. Maybe some kind of fuel blockage in the line? I know it sounds too simple, but you're running out of things it could be.
how does one check for a fuel blockage?
I'd want a manual in my hands to be sure of what I was looking at (either the Mazda service manual or Chilton or Haynes
The basic concept (at least how I did it with my truck) is that turning the key to the On position will start the fuel pump. With the fuel line disconnected at the tank, if fuel comes out, then the pump is functioning. Then reconnect that end of the line and disconnect at the engine and turn the pump on again. If the line is blocked/kinked/filter clogged, you'd get no fuel or noticeably less fuel coming out.
Again, I'd definitely want a manual/diagrams at my disposal.