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Subaru Impreza Outback Sport & TS

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Comments

  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Yep, it takes a few cycles for an error code to clear itself up.

    If you want, you can reset the ECU. Disconnect the negative battery terminal, wait 20 minutes, reconnect. Have the keyless ready to lock/unlock a few times to stop the lights from blinking.

    The catch is your gas mileage will stink until the ECU leans out the fuel mixture. But it will clear the CEL unless the problem still exists.

    -juice
  • derekgdwderekgdw Member Posts: 51
    Thanks for the suggestions on the Check Engine Light.

    It actually went off on it's own on Friday so I watched it Saturday Sunday and Monday. Since it didn't come back on I figured it was a fluke and canceled my appointment at the dealer.

    Well it came on again today. The weather today was very rainy and damp just like on Thursday so I think that may have something to do with it.

    Either way I'm going to be dropping it off tonight.

    The cost to have them figure out what the CEL is on for is $95 which goes towards the actual repair as well.

    Why can't anything cheap go wrong on this thing? :p
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    The mechanic has to make his next payment on his VDC. ;-)

    -juice
  • derekgdwderekgdw Member Posts: 51
    No kidding hahaha This is a combination Subaru, Mazda, Suzuki, Chrysler, Jeep dealer so he may have a new 300C Hemi to worry about . . .

    I just went out for lunch a few hours ago. Check engine light went off. But now it's sunny. It's a fair weather car! I hope they can still diagnose it.

    For those reading that haven't seen my plight in previous posts . . . My car (an '02 Subaru Impreza bought in June of '01 Currently has 53k miles on it) was in a major accident when it was six months old (12k to repair). Most of my problems have been with the suspension (which is where most of the damage was). One good reason to get a cheap car, it's much easier to total. ;-)

    Since the accident however there've been two sensor issues. Earlier this year the fuel/air mixture ratio sensor (whatever the proper name for it was) went out and started causing the engine to stall. Since it was out of the bumper to bumper warranty that was about $300 to replace at the dealer. I'm hoping I'm not looking at another $300 to fix what's going on with this sensor.

    There's also an issue that just came up a few weeks ago that I haven't bothered to fix yet. When you turn the wheels all the way to the left there's supposed to be a stop to prevent them from turning too far. Well my car doesn't have the stop so the wheels rub on the body. I'm hoping I can make the body shop fix this one.

    Since this is getting to be one thing after another (even more so than before) I'm contemplating replacing the car again (I really wanted to wait until I'm 25 but I'm getting really annoyed). I was going to replace with a Toyota Matrix XR last year but decided to buy a condo instead.

    Since my job is ending here (company got acquired by a much bigger company in Memphis so unless I wanted to move my job ends at the end of November) I'm going to wait a bit and see what ends up happening. If I get a job that's a train commute to Chicago (which I'm really hoping for) I'll probably replace this car with a Scion xA. They're good cars but based on driving one in San Diego . . . I'd have to really think about it before I got one for excessive expressway driving. Though I've heard that after a few thousand miles the engine opens up and they get much quicker. If I do end up doing a lot of driving I'll probably replace with a Matrix, a Scion tC, a Mazda 3 or an Acura RSX.

    I'd replace with another Impreza as I think they're really good cars (provided they don't come back in zombie form after they should have died) but I think that if I'm going to be making car payments again I want something that's a good deal different than what I already had.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    ODB2 should store the codes. Just just be a single misfire, when it's humid.

    -juice
  • derekgdwderekgdw Member Posts: 51
    What's ODB2? I'm thinking of that hip hop guy 'Ol Dirty Bas**** (not sure if town hall would have a problem with the full name there)
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    Juice meant OBD2 - second-generation On Board Diagnostics :)

    kcram
    Host - Wagons
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    It's the son of the rapper you're thinking about. ODB Jr.

    Just kidding. :-)

    On-Board Diagnostics level II. It's basically the emissions equipment, they're required to store failure codes for a certain amount of time.

    -juice
  • derekgdwderekgdw Member Posts: 51
    They called to let me know what it was.

    The knock sensor needed replacement, they said right away. THREE HUNDRED BUCKS Needless to say as soon as I hung up the phone I was done using my indoor voice.

    Anyway I told them to go ahead and do it. I think I'll just cut my losses with this car and get something else next year if I can swing it. It seems like every couple of months I have to take it in for something stupid (that I can't prove was accident related), it ends up costing a few hundred bucks and in the end it doesn't matter because something else breaks shortly thereafter lol

    I’m thinking of going the trade in route at that point just to be rid of it (I’d rather unload it on an unsuspecting dealer rather than an individual and go to hell for it). Why does the Kelly Blue Book value give me so much of a lower trade in value on this car in comparison to Edmunds? Edmunds says I should get around 11,500 for it (’02 Outback Sport 53k miles premium audio (Sony system) remote start, keyless entry) while KBB says 9,500 Needless to say I like Edmunds figure better.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Ask Terry in the real world trade-in figures thread, he's spot-on.

    Sorry 'bout your stroke of bad luck, we had similar luck with our '95 626, rated highly reliable but ours was problematic.

    And trust me, $300 would've been a dream, we were forking out $800-900 every time. 5 times.

    -juice
  • derekgdwderekgdw Member Posts: 51
    Oh yeah I know it's not the worst it could be. At least I can say I really don't think it's Subaru's fault. :-) In fact they've replaced parts under warranty that they could've gotten away with saying "No this is related to your accident" so I have no complaints there. Only real complaint that springs to mind were the dash rattles that they couldn't fix.

    Was '95 the year that they tried putting Ford transmissions in the 626?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    That year and others, yes.

    Ours was a manual tranny so that was not affected. Didn't stop many other things from having problems, though (axle boots, fuel injection, wheel bearing, O2 sensor, exhaust, etc).

    -juice
  • mikeybmikeyb Member Posts: 2
    I'm thinking of buying a 1998 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport. Its got 145k miles on it. I was wondering if anyone could offer advice as to what things I should be looking out for on Subaru this age/mileage.

    I have not seen the car yet but the brakes / battery / alternator and timing belt are new. The clutch is the original.

    I guess my concern is that some cars still have another 50k of miles left on them at 145k of miles but others totally fall apart after this type of mileage. Any thoughts would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance.

    Mike
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    that car is exactly the same as the '97 I used to have. Watch out for clutch chatter - it was common from a young age in this car, and if it is bad enough you may want to factor in the cost of a clutch replacement right off the bat. Apart from that these cars are very durable. Look for leaking oil seals on the engine (as well as behind the timing cover) - they tend to do that and can make a mess, although not be particularly urgent to fix.

    If it still has the original struts, they may be well and truly wasted by this point, and it is quite expensive to replace all four on this car if you can't do it yourself - I was quoted no less than $1000 by several different places two years ago for replacement with OEM shocks. Find out if those have ever been done.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • mikeybmikeyb Member Posts: 2
    thanks for the advice 'tis much appreciated
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    At that age it's all about the care they took. Ask to see all the receipts for service. By now just about every single wear and tear item should have been replaced (or will need it soon).

    -juice
  • lumbarlumbar Member Posts: 421
    On balance, this is a very minor issue--but watch out for the plastic wheel covers! If you're fussy about appearance, the so-called "locking mechanism) (i.e., a piece of plastic) tends to break and the covers fall of models around this time period. I never cease to be amazed at the number of OBS & Imprezas from this generation that I still see with missing wheel covers. I've also been told by a dealer that the cruise control has a relatively high rate of problems, if that option is on the vehicle.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I sold my wife's wheel covers to an OBS owner, so good call!

    We get used alloys to replace the steelies.

    -juice
  • dajabecdajabec Member Posts: 2
    I just bought a 99 OBS manual transmission with 163000 miles on it from a dealer "economy" lot. I have always wanted one, and having about $5000 to spend on a car I thought I'd look for one, since my old car (89 volvo 740 GL) was having tranny problems. Found this one and since there was another manual Legacy Outback on the lot that just had the clutch replaced I figured they checked everything out on these cars and do what has to be done before they sell them. I test drove it for probably 20 minutes and didn't notice any problems. I have rarely driven a stick before, however so I don't really know exactly how they should behave. I do however love actually driving the car instead of just shifting into drive and pushing the pedal... Anyways, I got them to $3,600 with my trade ($1000) and was happy with it. Came in early a couple days later - since I work in the afternoon - and paid for the car and began driving it home... which is where the fun begins.... leaving the city traffic and beginning the hour and a half drive home from where I bought it, I began a steep climb at 60 mph when the tranny started slipping and the rpm's started pegging. I laid off the gas and climbed the hill at about 45 mph with smoke starting to come off the car. Pulled off first exit, headed back, got to the lot and after telling them what happened and them driving it around and taking it to the shop, gee they say the clutch is burned up. They say they will replace it and make everything right for me and give me my old car back to drive home.

     

    Isn't this something that should have been caught or just some bad luck and a good job of trading in a vehicle by the previous owner at the right time? I don't know whether to be thankful to have them eat the cost of a clutch (and whatever might be wrong) or worry what else might be lurking for me to fix. Like I said earlier, I got it from a car dealer that was a trade-in so I'm figuring they at least looked at the thing to make sure it was mechanicanlly sound. I might as well have bought private party, at least I might get it home then!

     

    Anyways, any suggestions or comments (like, buying a car with 163000 miles you moron!) would be appreciated.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I bet the previous owner felt it beginning to slip and then traded it in.

     

    It's possible they would not have known, so I wouldn't worry about it as long as they replace it.

     

    Think of it this way - your clutch will be newer than the guy that bought a 2005 model yesterday and put 16 miles on it.

     

    :-)

     

    -juice
  • herreshoffherreshoff Member Posts: 2
    Heya everyone,

     

    I've been doing a bit of research into these Subaru Impreza's and I've noticed that there is no data on rear side impact crashes. Anyone know why the data is this way? My best guess is that the car is so short that there's no way to do the side impact crash test in the rear of the car.

     

    Thanks!

     

    John
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    Does anyone test the rear?

     

    -Dennis
  • herreshoffherreshoff Member Posts: 2
    I was wondering the same thing, so I checked a similar sized car (Toyota Matrix) and they crash tested the rear.
  • 204meca204meca Member Posts: 369
    I am considering replacing a 97 Caravan Sport with a smaller car -- don't need a lot of interior space. One of my needs is the ability to tow a 1,900 lbs. bass boat. Usually the tow trip is less than 50 miles, but once or twice a year I go over the Wa Cascades with the boat.

    Any of you Subbie owners towing something that large? I read that Impresas and Foresters have a 2,500 lb tow capacity. Would I notice any difference in towing this boat between Impresa RS wagon & Forester XL (non turbo)?

    Do either of these vehicles have a transmission cooler as standard?

    When not towing, what can I realistically expect for gas mileage from either of these Subbies.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    People report anywhere from 22 to 26mpg average with the 2.5l engine. I've averaged 25.1 with my '98 Forester.

    I've also towed about 1500 lbs, and of course got lousy mileage while doing so. It was in the 17 range. But that was with a trailer attached the whole time.

    The automatics do have an oil cooler, engine oil I think. 5 speeds make do without that.

    What you might need is trailer brakes. The Forester X has rear drums, so I'd at least consider a Forester XS to get better-cooling rear disc brakes.

    -juice
  • misstenacitymisstenacity Member Posts: 1
    I'm going to be purchasing a '98-'01 OBS soon, and would love to get a MT: more fun to drive in general.

    I know that the 2.2L is legendary as being reliable, sometimes into the multi-hundred K odometer readings, which is great! However, I've also heard rumors that the AT is more reliable over the long haul than the MT - is this true?

    If it is true, is the difference huge, or just marginal? I definitely don't want to give up an MT if I don't have to....

    Thanks!

    Miss Tenacity
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I'd say the auto is more reliable, sure, mostly because clutch chatter is a common complaint in those years.

    Sounds like you want the auto, that's what you should get IMO.

    -juice
  • lumbarlumbar Member Posts: 421
    It may depend on your driving priorities. I have a '99 OBS MT and, as juice noted, there is minor clutch chatter in lower gear (70K). On the other hand, on this vehicle, I would not give up the increased pickup that the MT provides. I also only get about 22 mpg around town (winter gas & leadfoot), and prefer not to sacrifice any mpg for the sake of an AT. However, if slight sacrifices in pickup and mpg are not important, the AT may do the trick Still, I have a hard time believing that, with a subie, the difference in reliability would be very significant--or well-documented for that matter.

    You may want to stock up on the plastic wheel covers though. I've left them all up and down the East Coast and now buy them by the bushel. :)
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Consider a set of WRX wheels, they're a dime a dozen.

    -juice
  • ny2iany2ia Member Posts: 1
    I am thinking about purchasing a new Outback Sport in the next several months. What do you think about your experiences with Subarus? I have owned 3 Honda Civics, so this is a big change for me. Thanks for your feedback.
  • dognutdognut Member Posts: 8
    Buy it now...there are good discounts available. I bought mine in Jan. and I love the suspension, handling, and ride. It is really good in the snow and makes the trip up my icy 158 ft. driveway without a hitch. I drove the Forester and found the steering and suspension much lighter...prefering the OBS. It is small but if you are used to the Civics I think you will be very happy.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Check out CR, Subaru was 2004's most reliable brand. They've worked the bugs out and with incentives you can get a great deal.

    You'll give up some fuel economy for more torque, AWD, and an extra dose of character.

    -juice
  • damish003damish003 Member Posts: 303
    I own two of these cars, a 2004 and a 2005. One for me, one for the wife. Great cars! It will feel much larger inside to you compared to your Civic. I too prefer the handling to the Forester. Nothing more than basic maintenance so far on either one. I'd highly recommend it.

    -Dan-
  • dcm61dcm61 Member Posts: 1,567
    Nothing more than basic maintenance so far on either one.

    Reconstructing the body on the back half of the car is basic maintenance??? :-D

    DaveM

    P.S. How is the accident repair holding up?
  • damish003damish003 Member Posts: 303
    C'mon Dave, now you're making me explain the accident, or the person asking the question is going to think I'm nuts. You're making me type this all over again. You're so cruel :)

    The repair work has held up perfectly, thanks for asking. Still drives like a new car. Except I like the 2005 a bit more, mostly because of the better seats. ANYWAY...

    For the previous poster asking about Outback Sports. Mine was rear-ended back in December of 2003, just a few months into having the car. By all rights it should have been declared totalled, since the repairs amounted to almost 14k. I had the work done on the car, basically rebuilding the rear of it, as Dave mentioned.

    I was hit at 45 mph or so by a full-sized Dodge pickup. No personal injury at all. That has me SOLD on the safety of Subaru.

    Anyway, the repair was done by a certified body shop. It took quite a while to fix, due to how particular Subaru calls for certain repairs. Some frame work was needed, basically everything back of the rear seats is new.

    I leased the car, which is why I didn't demand that the car be totalled. One benefit of leasing is that, as long as a repair is done by a quality body shop, it doesn't come back on me at lease end. I do intend to replace the car next spring. With another Subaru, for sure.

    Hope this helps in the decision making process.

    -Dan-
  • dcm61dcm61 Member Posts: 1,567
    You're making me type this all over again. You're so cruel :)

    Sorry, I couldn't resist with the "nothing more than basic maintenance" comment.

    DaveM
  • threesinthreesin Member Posts: 50
    I'm considering buying an '01 OBS with 86+K miles. I also have an '01 2.5RS parts car. Are the 2.2L and 2.5L tranny's interchangeable? For that matter, are the two engines the same physical size with different sized cylinders &/or sleeves?

    While I wouldn't be expecting any probs for some time, I just want to be prepared for the unexpected, or retreat from the negotiations;-)

    Anyone on this forum from the VA area? If so, is rust on the undercarriage a problem as a result from salted roads during the winter months?

    I'd be buying this car based upon the dealer's word, inspection, and reputation.

    TIA............Terry
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I believe so. The 2.5l is bored out IIRC. They are both the same EJ series block.

    That's a heck of a parts car!

    -juice
  • threesinthreesin Member Posts: 50
    Yeah! It was suppose to be a "branded", titled car fully repaired to "road worthiness" that I planned to use to get into rally with. It turned out to be a scam. The car looks great, and everything on it works fine, but the platform has been butchered so badly in the "so-called" repairs that it can't economically be made "road worthy".(It had been hit in the driver's door.)

    So, I have an $8000 parts car that is worth $500-$1000 to a salvage yard! However, w/o including the drivetrain, I can see that much in parts w/o any heavy duty dismantling. All the body parts look good. I haven't taken a magnet to them yet to see how much bondo has been used, but the hood and rear deck with wing don't appear to have been touched; and the headlights and fog lights are all in tact and working. I think they cost $100-125/ea to replace in the retail mkt?

    Since I still have my 2000 RS cpe and sedan, and may soon have the '01 OBS, I may yet recoup my $$$ from the scam;-)

    Thanks for the good news on the tranny fit!

    Terry
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Headlights are $125 wholesale. The wing is worth something. You could have a yard sale on Nabisco. Stereo is also worth something.

    -juice
  • ericf1ericf1 Member Posts: 54
    Not sure why this one doesn't deserve its own topic- AFAIK it has nothing to do with the WRX just the standard Impreza, but apparently the Mod thinks so, so here it is:

    From what I've read on the impact crash results website it appears Subaru is updating the '05 Impreza design to score better in side-impacts.

    ""...Subaru Impreza will have new design features that are intended to improve side impact protection..."

    Anyone have any details on this? I plan to purchase this year, and if Subaru is going to radically alter the frame or add side-impact airbags, I'd rather wait a few more months than jump now.
    This kind of upgrade doesn't seem like something they could add to existing models.
  • crashton6crashton6 Member Posts: 245
    While I don't know for sure my best guess it that it will be side impact airbags. I doubt that they'd be making any structural changes at this point in the cars life. It's due for a remake in the 06 model year anyway. I too would wait for those before buying. That is the one thing that has bothered me about the Impreza RS.

    Chuck :)
  • threesinthreesin Member Posts: 50
    In addition to the stock stereo unit, there was one of the 6 CD changer units sitting on the floor behind the passenger seat when the car arrived. (Do you suppose the guy's conscience bothered him so he threw in a bonus?) Anyway, can the unit be bench tested some way to see if it works?

    On another topic, I don't see a Brat forum on this site. Am I overlooking it somewhere or is the mini-truck too old to have much interest here? Are any of the Subaru Gurus knowledgeable about the Brat?

    Thanks again.......... :shades: Terry
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Actually, the 06 Forester got a stiffer rear cross member, and since they share a platform it's likely the Impreza will get the same upgrade.

    -juice
  • micwebmicweb Member Posts: 1,617
    Honda was able to update their CR-V from 2004 to 2005 to pass the IIHS side impact test by simply adding side curtain airbags AND beefing up the door frames. They didn't need a complete body re-design.

    Subaru did the same for the front crash by adding "donuts" (their term) at key points on the frame to add body strength. They did this mid-year a few years back.

    So apparently there are sometimes some minor mid-production changes that can greatly improve crashability.

    I'd love to see Subarus address this issue. An Impreza hatchback or Outback Sport are both on my current short list of cars I'd like to have.
  • grackgrack Member Posts: 3
    Hi,

    I'm thinking about getting an Outback Sport in the next few months. My only beef with the car is the gas mileage. I know, it's AWD and you can't expect the same as a FWD car...of course. But Subaru lists 23/30mpg for the MT. I've seen reports of people getting just 22mpg average. I've always had small fuel efficient cars (27mpg and up), so getting the Subaru might be a bit of a downer on fuel economy for me. (I'm also considering the Mazda3i sedan)

    I was just wondering if anyone of you with the OBS can let me know how your doing gas mileage-wise. Oh, and let me know if you have an AT or MT.

    Thanks! I'd really appreciate the info!

    Greg
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Nice car, but you should really compare the OBS to the Mazda3s, with the 2.3l.

    To be honest the boxer has more torque than even that engine, but with AWD things even out a bit. The 2.0l is not going to feel fun after driving the other 2.

    -juice
  • damish003damish003 Member Posts: 303
    My 2004 OBS gets an overall average of 25, with the AT. With all the snow we get here, like the 2 FEET we got this weekend, winter averages 22-23, summer is 25-27. For the benefits of all-the-time AWD, that works for me.

    -Dan-
  • grackgrack Member Posts: 3
    Well, my post wasn't really about comparing cars...I do see your point, but, I'm not considering the Mazda3s...so why should I compare the OBS to that? Both cars are fun to drive (3i, OBS)...I'm just concern about gas mileage with the OBS.

    Actually if the 3i came in a HB I'd probably be sold on that, but I'd rather get a smaller engine and save the money on gas with the i, and it doesn't come in a HB model.

    Anyway, I was simply wondering what mpg people are getting in the OBS.....
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Buy what you like. :)

    Fuel costs are only a tiny portion of the equation. If you knew you'd be happier but had to spend an extra $3 per week on gas, wouldn't you? I sure would.

    -juice
This discussion has been closed.