Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Still undecided & cautious--- (especially when I can get a 78k mile Limited Explorer with all svc records and new tires for only $6000)
Otherwise not so.
The XC90 is a better choice for transporting 7 people
My 1998 xc70 has some known electrical problems (ignition switch faulty - car starts but radio and windows do not operate unless I rotate/nudge the key slightly ccw after starting) and data display switch has been replaced once under warranty several years ago but has developed the same annoying problem. Just yesterday the turn signals started to act up. The sound they make is very soft, and once in a while one will stop blinking altogether. When I turn on the hazard flashers, the normal sound occurs and the lights flash normally. The whole day today the turn signals make the soft sound (but blink at the normal rate - NOT the fast rate indicating bulb burn out), so it is not an intermittent problem.
ALso - my abs/trax light has been coming on and have been told by the dealer I need a new module. I know the brakes will work normally so am in no big hurry to fix it. I fancy myself something of an electrical repair-woman and have no fear of checking the module for obvious circuit board or component issues. That is, if I could find it. All previous maintenance has been by dealer, so I am not very familiar with the insides of the engine compartment. Can someone give me good directions on how to find and remove the module? Can I drive the car/Will the car/brakes function properly with the module removed? Or is the vehicle out of service until it is replaced? This is my only car, so that is kind of important info.
thanks to all for the help!
Deal is (through military sales, so non-standard options available):
- 3rd row
- Integrated boosters
- DSTC
- Load Leveling
- Roof Rails
- "Advance Pkg" - includes
-- Climate Pkg
-- Bi-Xenon
-- DVD Nav
Quote is $31.5K with leather, Just over $30k without. I'm not sure if I can dicker further or if Mil Sales are concrete prices.
Convince me one way or the other. Will likely be our primary around town car, with our 00 Odyssey continuing to be the long distance road trip machine (3 small kids).
Other considered vehicles:
- Mazda5 (thinkng it's too small)
- Highlander Hybrid (pricey, and wondering about the 5 yr battery replacement point)
- Passat Diesel or Mazda6 Wagons (5 passengers max)
- Ford Freestyle Wagon...
Values/Priorities:
- Room for family of 5 with occasional extras
- Safety
- Durability
- MPG
- Of course, cost - $35k is probably our ceiling of what we're prepared to pay for a car, but no desire/requirement to pay that much.
I don't believe Volvo would concur with the advice of the Volvo parts guy. There have been tests on both these rear seats and mercedes eclass rear seats which are similar. IMO, they are no more dangerous than some third seats in mini vans with the occupants head less than 1 ft from the back glass. And isn't Volvo still selling them in the new V70s?
You can get a third seat for this but may need to go to auto wrecker or ebay. Maybe switch one out from a Volvo owner who no longer needs theirs (kids have outgrown?). A new seat was about $1k option so that is what you should look at tops. Cheaper than a replacement vehicle but not as useful.
And, if you go with a new vehicle, there are now many minivan replacements with 3rd seats - much more than in 2000 - ie Freestyle, Pilot, Rendevous, Highlander etc not to mention the truck based SUVs.
We have an 05 Nissan Quest. It has the 3.5l, 242 hp V6 engine from the Maxima family and a five speed automatic. It has a nice 3 spoke leather steering wheel and handles great. The power sliding doors open nearly 3 feet wide, and it's easy to walk back between the first two rows of seats to the 3rd row. If you don't need the middle row seats they fold flat, and the 3rd row folds into the floor. The stereo system has a second controller so you can listen to one source while the kids in the back can listen to something else with cordless headphones. Average MPG for the first 6,000 miles was 22.3mpg.
I am always puzzled when some middle-aged parent rebels from buying a minivan. Instead they buy a gigantic, unwieldy SUV. Or try to stuff their kids into the "Wayback" of a Volvo instead.
And I have a question for those parents. Who do you think you're kidding?Whether you drive an SUV Maru, a station wagon, or a minivan, everyone who sees you is going to know you're a middle-aged parent. So why not buy a minivan, enjoy the creature comforts, convenience features, and operating economy. And have fun blowing the doors off the above when you feel like it? What's not to love?
The wagons are cars and regardless of what the manufacturers try to tell you, minivans are not and do not handle, accelerate or ride like cars - especially like the european wagons. Are they getting better - maybe. Anyone who has owned a turbo Volvo or Saab wagon will have difficulty getting back into a minivan - from a pure driving and comfort point of view.
The wagons generally get better mileage but may depend on the models.
Wagons have a bench seat across the second row - which is very useful if you have 3 kids. Up until recently, only GM had a bench across the middle row. As soon as you put the third child in the back row of a minivan - you have lost the storage. I understand there are more manufacturers now that offer bench 2nd row.
Many do not like the styling or sliding doors of the current minivans or prefer to have AWD (not always available in minivans) hence the increased popularity of wagons and crossover vehicles.
Many don't need the space of a minivan - only when on holidays or going to Home Depot. Normally get around this with cargo boxes or trailers for the times they need extra space.
Is there an image issue? Maybe in part, but please don't assume that a minivan fits the bill for everyone. For many, it just doesn't suit them - never will.
I have a 98 XC that is making a similar noise. Today I got a pal to hoist the car and we listened to the noise from beneath (not something you want to do in the driveway?).
Anyway, we're in Canada and our bearing supplier didn't have any idea which bearing it might be.
Do you happen to have a record of the bearing you bought to replace it?
Any major bearing manufacturer will do.
Thanks for your post(s). By the way, is this a job I can do in the driveway? If the car is only up a foot (i.e. on jackstands) do you recall there being enough room beneath to remove the drive shaft?
Thanks, too, for responding so eloquently about reasons why some families DON'T want minivans. You are exactly right when you state that minivans don't handle nearly as well as Volvo wagons -- I've driven one and couldn't wait to get back into my wagon.
One thing "Garandman" has failed to realize is that his Nissan Quest is more of a crossover vehicle than a minivan. Oh well, that's his problem, not mine.
Again, thanks for your feedback on the third row seat. I greatly appreciate it!
I have driven all the new generation of minivans and almost all of the currently available wagons. I own a Subaru Outback - the original "crossover" - and a '98 V70.
My suggestion is that anyone go and drive the vehicles themselves and draw their own conclusions rather than take the assertions of someone who has not driven any of them.
If calling a Quest a "crossover" [it is built on the Altima chassis but no AWD version is available] relieves your social anxiety about minivans, it's worth taking a drive to see what the 3.5l V6 that powers them is all about. The foldaway seats; sound systems; and multi-piece sunroof is also entertaining.
There is nothing mini about the new crop of minivans: they are physically much larger than the Volvo wagons, a significant selection difference. Otherwise, the Ford Freestyle is a much more direct, and formidable marketplace competitor.
Surfing for other things, I found that www.vlvworld.com sells the seat for your year. Not cheap - $975 for the whole kit (new) - not sure on the shipping, and that doesn't include installation (probably time consuming but not difficult to do yourself). I have no experience with this site.
Another option would be to check the local wrecking yards - if you do that, inspect the mounting hardware carefully to make sure it's not damaged, and install NEW safety belts.
Hope this helps,
Pat
Good luck and welcome home!
Why do you say that? Have you seen the 0-60 times?
8.2 seconds 0-60 from: http://www.theautochannel.com/news/2005/02/22/000751.html
http://www.caranddriver.com/article.asp?section_id=3&article_id=8897&page_number=4
Regardless of what the text in many review say about the Freestyle being underpowered, the numbers don't lie. It's only a perception of being underpowered because of the CVT transmission but not by the reality the 0-60 times.. The CVT really makes the most out of the available horsepower.
features. Have two other volvos that run well. The reputation Volvo has with our family is depndability. I've done a lot of internet searching in the meantime and have found several references to faults associated with the Electronic Throttle Module. The whole thing reminds me of the unfortunate boy in Lorenzos Oil his symptoms remain undignosed while the family is left trying to understand what's happening. To keep this brief I referyou to www.vexedvolvo.com for the explanation and turn on your own light.
The perception of the Freestyle being underpowered has been propagated by the auto journalists and is not helped by the engine only being 200Hp (or so) compared to some competitors are 250+. But all turbo owners should know that HP isn't everything.
yesterday. needless to say, i'm unhappy at the prospect of
spending upwards of $1000 to fix a car that is probably only
worth $5000 or $6000. just 2 weeks ago, we nearly traded
it on a new car. oh well. any advice would be welcome.
Thanks for the lead on vlvworld.com -- I'll definitely check it out. I've also got feelers out at the local wrecking yards -- all good points in terms of safety.
Many thanks for your input.
and my daughter could use it as her first car (big, safe, etc).
Thinking about trading it in for a 2003 Volvo V70 2.4 (upgraded with leather and power driver seat) that has 26K miles on it.
The V70 will definitely have better gas mileage, but what about the Maryland winters? Sometimes we get a lot of snow, sometimes not a whole lot. The highways usually stay clean anyway, but still.
Both have all-season tires but the V70 size tires are 15 inch. It's just the standard model and it's FWD.
Another hestiation is that I just spent $500 back in May for the 30K mile inspection on the 4Runner and if I get the Volvo there is another one coming up soon. just another hassle.
Has anyone experience of driving a 2.4 base model in wintry conditions? MD doesn't allow you to get winter/snow tires -- only in the western counties and that's not where I would be going. So the best I can do is all-weather tires (don't know the difference between all-season and all-weather, if there really is one, but if there is, I would have to get the all-weather tires I suppose?).
Any advice is welcome.........
Our Southeastern Virginia winters are a little milder,but even your clime shouldn't throw it. I'd trade that truck in a second to get a V70...I think it's a very wise purchase!
With the suggested and correct maintenance, do you think the Volvo will take me well over 150,000 miles? I would be putting about 30 miles on it per year. I would get the extended 6yr/100K mile warranty, but at the rate I'll be driving, it would reach 100,000 miles by end of 2007. I would have to finance the car for 5 years.
This would be my first Volvo. My family were always Saab people........and those suckers always used to last forever, lol!
Thanks!!
Did you mean your state won't allow STUDDED winter tires tires?
For peace of mind,many suggest getting winter tires mounter on cheaper steel wheels...if you have a garage for storage...
Front Wheel drive can accomplish wonders with normal all-season tires...But as I said,I've been in Tdewater my whole life.
Good luck with your decision....I admit i'm very,very impressed with the V70..I think everything came together with this one...
I have run some numbers and the V70 is definitely in the lead when you look at it on paper (maintenance, tire cost every 60-80K miles, etc).
They are going to fix the vehicle up for me (it had a few scratches) and I'm going there later this week to make a final decision. The amount they are offering for the 4runner is firm so it's basically up to me what I wanna do....... looks like I'll be a Volvo owner soon!
Plus, having 2 kids, the Volvo is definitely a leader when it comes to safety!!!!!!
Thanks again for all your advice!
They are giving me $1500 more on my trade in (4runner) than it's worth, so overall, I do think it's a good deal. (It was my choice to get more for my trade in or buy the V70 for less; I would like more on the trade in since I'm a few K upside down on it. It really helps me, because I'm not financing any of the upside down stuff.
The Carfax report shows no issues.
We have recently experienced the same problem, and it was equally scary. We took it to our trusty local European mechanic and it was ok while they had it and they weren't able to find anything wrong with it, but as soon as I got it back it started again. Do you know if Volvo have an official policy about this, because the car is out of warranty otherwise and the nearest Volvo dealer charges a fortune just to take a look at it! Hope you can advise. Best, Miele
Any good M&S rated AS tire - Michelin HydroEdge or Goodyear TripleTread, as two examples - should give you perfectly adequate traction. Even new Michelin X or another new tire should give you enough tread to do a good job in moderate snow.
Those tires are very good in rain, adequate in snow, and last a long time.
You didn't ask for anything beyond the winter driving experience, so you can stop reading here if you'd like. If you are still here, I must say we aren't sure if we are going to keep the car much longer (and we're drive it into the ground people). We have observed every "negative" issue listed for this vehicle. Right out of the gate, it had a problem with the chip that is part of the cruise control/traction system. The dealer replaced it with no problem. We asked if this was a defect and they replied "We've replaced more than one." You will get used to this answer, and probably come to believe that Volvo doesn't really do recalls.
We've also had the phantom electrical problem. It indicates that a light bulb is out, but you can't find the bugger.
The trim around the sunroof falls down for no reason.
The leather is kind of crispy and I question how long it will last without cracking.
The brakes needed to be replaced when the car had 22,000 miles on it. We are not race car drivers. Our Sienna, Camry, Prism and Integra all got nearly 60K out of the brakes. Volvo will tell you they are performance brakes. Whatever you choose to believe, it's going to cost you.
The headlight bulbs went within one year. They were replaced without problem, but it's another trip to the dealer.
When we first got the car, we had to bring it back to have the third row seat installed. We were given a loaner V70, which died in the parking lot due to a bad transmission. I said I was suddenly worried, but was told I should play the lottery because this never happens to a Volvo. We have not had any problems with our transmission, but it looms in our mind. Our neighbors also had a V70 and got rid of it when confronted with a $2,500 repair bill for the transmission. Their impression is that the maintenance and repair bills get bigger as the mileage increases.
We bought the Volvo because it was one of our dream cars. Safety and reliability were what we wanted, not flash. If we had to choose between our 2002 Volvo with 30K and our 1998 Sienna with 97K, we would get rid of the Volvo without a thought. It's an okay car, nice even. For $36,000, we just expect a lot more than we got.
However, we have had the opposite experience with our 99 V70. It is pushing 100k miles and other than being on the third mass flow meter (this is unreasonable) it has been great. No electrical problems or fit or finish or mechanical ones. The brakes (fron rotors) were only replaced this year although we are on the second set of pads on the front. Yes we replaced front lights in year one (but also did on my new Saab and Toyota I owned) but next set of bulbs lasted 4 yrs (and with DRLs).
I agree that these cars will not be cheap to fix as they get older but likely no different than any other premiun european brand. I am beginning to think the way to go on any of these premium cars is just lease them under warranty and get a new one every 3 yrs or so - if budget allows.
Any advice? Thanks!
My daughter is doing a Physics school project that involves the speed vs. the stopping distance (after the brakes are applied). We would love to hear some input on this issue regarded your vehicles. Thanks!
I bought a 2006 V70 through the overseas delivery program, and have had problems with the tire pressure warning system light coming on for no reason within the first few hundred miles of picking up the car at the factory. I took it to a dealer in Germany and they thought that there was a defective sensor on the front passenger tire. They did not have the part needed to fix the defect, so I decided to wait and take the car to my local dealer upon return to the US. Before I had a chance to do so, my wife drove the car through a car wash, and the vehicle stalled. We had it towed to the dealership, and they found a crimped wire that had shorted out the circuits for the fuel pump and the tire pressure warning light (so much for the defective sensor). It was pure coincidence that the car stalled at a car wash. It could have happened at a busy intersection or on a highway, causing a major accident. I have to say that I'm disturbed and disappointed with this happening to a Volvo. This incident has left me with less confidence that these are the safest vehicles on the road. Just wanted to pass this on in case anybody else out there is experiencing a similar problem with warning lights coming on for no apparent reason. You may want to have your car looked over for any crimped wires that could affect the fuel pump circuit.
I also noted that the buttons on the radio and below the radio (i.e. the a/c controls, child locks, etc) get very hot on long trips. It is actually at times painful to the touch. I mentioned this to my local dealer, and they were essentially unable to reproduce the problem. They tested the car and stated that the buttons do not get any hotter than on any other V70. Does anyone in this forum have a similar experience??
Thanks, Thomas
I'm the 2nd owner of a '92 Volvo 240 Station Wagon with 270K. It's beginning to nickel and dime me on a monthly basis (all door handles have broken, power windows dying, engine mounts yesterday). It's been a great car for the last 5 years. I'm looking at a '01 V70 Wagon -- no turbo, not the XC. It has 71k and seems to be in nice shape -- the timing belt was just replaced -- though I haven't had a mechanic look under the hood yet (I ran it on car fax and it's clean with two previous owners). The Volvo used car dealership want $12,900 and will give me $3K on my car. So I'm out the door for $10K (+tax, etc).
Is 2001 a good year for the V70 Wagon? Does anyone have any advice or insight on this, I'd really appreciate some opinions on this car and price.
Thanks!!!
fwiw, our 2004 xc90 had a problem with crimped wires affecting all drivers door electronics and the stereo. it took the dealer 2 visits to fully discover the root cause and fix it properly. not much of a safety issue there however - luckily it never failed with the drivers window stuck down, that would have been a drag.
as for your questioning volvo's safety due to the crimped wire & fuel pump failure, stuff happens. you might be interested to check/report-to nhtsa website and see if there are many/any similar complaints about volvos stalling.
I am having the same problem (irregular locking of power locks and refusal to unlock the fuel cover, with mere fumes in the tank)!!!
Did you find a solution!!!
Please help!!
Jean