Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Subaru Legacy/Outback

1215216218220221230

Comments

  • heart4himheart4him Member Posts: 6
    I am getting ready to replace my '93 Sable wagon (been a work horse for me) I am looking at maybe an '03 OB. The gasket leak on the 02's is scaring me away from that year. Was it corrected in the '03's??? What other long term problems have been found with the '03's (well not real long term I guess)

    Why should I get a OB over an '05 Taurus? From all I have been reading the new OB are not holding up like the older ones did?? Or are all the complainers just posting and not the happy Subie drivers :)

    I would like a good untility car that I can drive to 100K and not have to rebuild when it hits 90K (like my Sable)
    Tell me the truth, I can take it.
  • lfdallfdal Member Posts: 679
    Wife's 03 OBW - 38000 miles, replacement transmission @ 28k, piston slap from hell <- still working that issue.

    Car is so noisy its an embarassment to drive. Also way more maintenance centric than a Sable (I owned 4 of them going back to 86).

    Then again, you might get lucky.....

    Larry
  • alpha01alpha01 Member Posts: 4,747
    Have been driving a rental '05 Outback with 19,000 miles on the odo for 300 miles now, and the vehicle feels just as tight as our Legacy did when new. (The Legacy has about 28K miles on it, and is doing quite well).

    Notably, the Outback feels spunkier than our lighter Legacy, but sluggishness off the line has always been a complaint I've logged against the 2.5 NA and 4A.

    ~alpha
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
    Be sure to join the Eagle One team in a live chat event tonight to find out how nanotechnology is changing the future in car appearance products.

    The chat gets underway at 9PM ET/6PM PT.

    There's also going to be a special offer available only to those attending the chat, so don't miss this one.

    Eagle One Team Chat

    Hope to see you there!
  • heart4himheart4him Member Posts: 6
    I have narrowed my search down to these two, probably '03 OB or 02 9-5. My question is this. OB's seem a bit finicky now. My local shop told me if a tire goes out you have to replace all four unless the tread is within 1/32 of the other tires. Can I get an OB without AWD, he said this is why all four have to be replaced? Why is it that the new OB's seem to need so much work on them, or is that just what I read hear and the happy owners are out driving instead of online complaining? Why is the OB rating so much more expensive to repair than the Saab by consumer reports. I thought most European cars were WAY more expensive to repair than other types. So many questions still :confuse:
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    I'll tackle the tire question, & someone who knows Saab better can jump in on the rest!

    Most 'full time' AWD cars have a tire uniformity requirement. In the case of Subaru it is 1/4" circumference, or between 1/32" & 2/32" in terms of tread depth. This is to save the center differential from cooking itself trying to resolve what it thinks is some tires spinning faster than others. Some AWD systems that only act in reaction to bigger wheel spin are not so 'finicky', but then they are not "on the job" full time like the Subaru system.

    It is a trade-off. Something to consider when going in to a large investment. In theory, you can disable the electronically controlled center diff (on automatic tranny models only) and run in FWD only mode by inserting a fuse (see your owners manual), but then why buy an OB???

    Steve
  • heart4himheart4him Member Posts: 6
    I took the plunge and got a 2003 OB. We found a great price on one from Enterprise Rental/car sales. it has 30K looks brand new inside and out, gave us a 12 month warrenty on all the major stuff. It also had a 100 point exam before sale. I like it :shades: I don't really need the AWD, but it sure is a joy to drive. I did not realize how different it would be from my Sable. I only lost about a foot in length (and cargo room) from the old car. (I was even able to donate my old car to a group that could really use it vs junking it for parts) weird how we get senitmental about our cars, huh?

    SO ok, now I am a part of the 'crew' I have been reading the manual like a book, I am drinking this all in, not being a 'car gal'. I know a few important things right off: don't tow, put it on a flat bed. No snow chains, Make sure all the tires get changed at the same time.

    Anything else that is really important to know up front? I am going to keep up on this board now for sure!

    Thanks for your advice. Don't worry I will keep this baby maintained and serviced regularly.
    Here she is:
    http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/gc137/detail?.dir=6371&.dnm=2a4ascd.jpg&.src=ph">My Subie
  • lfdallfdal Member Posts: 679
    Nice looking. Looks like they've kept it well maintained.

    Since its at 30K you probably want to check the info that Enterprise gave you and see how it lines up with the owner's manual.

    Most of the light maintenance items should be done now (if not already)
    Air filter,
    Fuel filter,
    Check the front and rear differential fluids,
    Check the transmission fluid
    Change the cabin air filter (if it has one - if it doesn't you might want to get one, I think most of us that have them installed like them)
    Spark plugs should be changed
    Cooling system flush
    If the brake fluid is dark you might want to get the fluid flushed - that's kind of a religious issue with some folks - some never touch it, some flush it yearly. Note that's different from getting the brakes bled. If a shop tells you its the same thing, run away, run away :)

    If Enterprise didn't change the fluids, I'd consider pecking at the list over the next few months, vs dropping a lot of cash to get everything done at once.
    I know that a brake flush is about $70, front and rear diff fluid change is about another $70, if you decide to have them do a drain and fill on the transmission (note that only replaces about 25% of the fluid, that's about $65).
    Cabin air filter - about $35 with a half hour's labor, fuel filter about the same, and air filter should be about $20 with less than a half hours labor.
    Spark plugs are between $60 - $100 depending upon who does them.
    Cooling system was also in the mid $60's I think - note that Subaru is insistent that only their brand of coolant be used in the engine.

    It looks like a lot, but it will help extend the life of the car and I notice you tend to keep them for quite a while.

    HTH

    Larry
  • rob_mrob_m Member Posts: 820
    Congratulations! I remember you asking a lot of questions on the Thursday night chat a few weeks ago.

    My advice is follow the normal maintenance plan. An occasional cleaning won't hurt, either.

    Good Luck. Rob M.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    ? Why no tire chains? That strikes me as odd. I have never used them on my car, but I certainly would have a set on hand were I to run the highway (Al-Can)during the winter months, which hopefully I will get the opportunity to do this next November.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • heart4himheart4him Member Posts: 6
    the manual specifically says not to use chains with my size tire, R225/60R16 beacause of lack of clearance. which is really a moot point it has only snowed once in about 100 years in my part of CA and then it did not even stick :P
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    So, no sob (I mean Saab) story? Good for you!

    Steve
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    You can use the low profile Z-chains, but you may not even need them.

    -juice
  • blackbeanblackbean Member Posts: 100
    Hi All,
    I had my 60k service yesterday. They said I did not need to change my spark plugs yet. How long do (can?) the plugs last?

    The mechanic (not the dealer) said it would be 2-hour job to change. I know it is complicated, but does that sound right? I know Scooby-Mods has a detailed set of instructions, but I don't feel like doing it myself.

    Thanks!
    Matt
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Haven't done this on an H6, but it is easier if you remove the air cleaner. Just time it so you do it when you're changing the air filter.

    -juice
  • cptpltcptplt Member Posts: 1,075
    plugs per owners manual for an 02 on the subaru website need to be changed at 60K. they are platinum plugs so will last a while and if its running fine you could probably wait a little.
    Only time I ever had a car which needed plugs changed at an even longer interval - A Windstar which needs them at 100K, one shot out of the engine at 75K!
  • pf2001pf2001 Member Posts: 110
    Hi all,
    When my wife starts her OB H6 04, the engine does not turn over right away. It takes a few tries before it starts. I guess it happens when the car has been sitting for a long period of time(over nite and leaving work).

    Could it be the ignition coil? I checked the water levels in the battery cells. They are fine.

    Any advice will be appreciated....
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    I assume that you mean that it cranks at proper speed, but will not start?

    If it happens most often after the car has cooled, it could be a fuel line pressure problem. Try a little experiment. Insert the key, and turn to the "on" position. Wait about 5 seconds, then proceed to "start". This allows certain electronics time to initialize, and for the fuel pump to run and prime the lines.

    The need for doing the 'on position for a few seconds' thing seems to be very vehicle dependent. A check ball arrangement is supposed to keep the fuel system under a slight degree of pressure, and all of the lines up to the injectors primed. Some fuel pumps do it better than others. If you have one of the cars in which the seals are less than perfect, sufficient fuel leaks down and you need a few seconds of pump priming to re-establish full lines and proper pressure. Otherwise, the injectors just will not fire correctly.

    If this works, bring it to the attention of your dealer and push for a new pump.

    Steve
  • pf2001pf2001 Member Posts: 110
    Steve,
    Yes, it cranks but will not start the first time. When she cranks it a second time, the car would start.
    I will follow your directions and let you know. If this is the case, I will inform the dealer.

    Thanks again.
  • blackbeanblackbean Member Posts: 100
    My wife's Honda Civic did not need (per owner's manual) new platinum plugs until 110k. Don't see why H6 Outback can't go that long either unless it is a matter of the higher compression? Higher octane fuel? Higher temps???
    If it wasn't such a PITA, I would swap them out myself.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    They're not that bad, are they? The Legacy is wider than the Forester/Impreza, those are the ones that have really tight clearances.

    -juice
  • famof3kidsfamof3kids Member Posts: 160
    Just wanted to share my experiences with you guys regarding these tires.

    This was my first 'full' winter with them. All I can say is 'awesome'. I think I posted a review when I purchased them last spring, but, anyway....

    The tires were great in the summer rainstorms. I have never hydroplaned in them, even when trying.
    You won't like them in the winter if you 'like' to play in the snow. You can't with these tires. I always liked to pull up on the emergency brake and slide around and pull in my driveway. It won't work anymore, ha. We didn't have any ice this winter, so, can't comment on ice traction.

    The tires have made a world of difference in snow traction compared to the OEM tires. I would recommend them on your Subaru in a heartbeat.

    It is also very hard to get them to loose traction while cornering on dry pavement. You hear tire scrubbing way before you hear them begin to squeal.

    (No, I don't work for, nor am I affiliated with GoodYear. ha!)

    :)

    Mark
    2003 Legacy Wagon L Spec Edt.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    Interesting assessment. I have no problem making them break loose at will on snow/ice, but much agreed that they are great tires in terms of maintaining control of the vehicle. I haven't used them yet on dry or wet pavement - at least not without ice under the water! - but I anticipate they will work splendidly while eating away at my gas mileage. Eh, there's always a tradeoff. I wonder if Ebony is still following this thread - are you still taking a 1-2 mpg hit with them?

    My mpg is back up to 20+ with the coming of spring. Still haven't broke +30F yet, so probably seems cold to those of you living in warmer climates. But, we are seeing +20F and greater temps! If it were not for this darned persistent north wind....
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • occkingoccking Member Posts: 346
    I too have had triple treads & have put 12,000 on them since early December in my 05 outback. Haven't really been in any situations this winter in which I can tell a clear difference between the oe Potenza's (which have gotten real crappy reviews) but I can tell you this... From the moment I installed those tires, my gas mileage plumetted by about 10%. The reduction was noticed immediately, and I have read on some of the message boards on Tire Rack similar complaints. As you can see I put a lot of miles on and, although I may have gotten a good deal on the tires (something like $440 installed, balance, road hazard warranty, free flat repair, rotation, etc.) whatever I may have saved I am losing in poorer gas mileage.
  • ebony5ebony5 Member Posts: 142
    I often check these pages. The above really does not apply to me as I put Yokohama Aegis Ls4 tires on my car. I bought them because they were highly rated for rain and snow in Tirerack, as well as being extremely reasonably priced. They replaced OEM Michelin XW4s. In my opinion the car handles better with the Yokos in all conditions but the ride is a bit noisier and not as gentle, but again my priority is handling ability, especially in bad weather. I never really took into account gas mileage relating to tires when I made the purchase. It seems sort of a secondary consideration to me, but I have not noticed any decrease in mileage from the OEM tires. Living in NYC and doing a fair bit of city driving I just sort of accept the situation, even with having to use premium gas in my '96 OBW (as per the owners manual)-wsex do you use premium in your '96? Thus far I have been satisfied with the Yokos. I have read that tread wear is not great but I knew that going in and since I only put around 9-10,000 k a year on the car it was not really a factor when I made the decision to buy them.
  • bigjohngobigjohngo Member Posts: 5
    Howdy! :D I'm living in upstate NY, where have tons of snow in winter so now Im planning to buy a AWD car. I just found a 2000 OB 5speed with 110k miles in the local dealer ask for $7800. Im wondering how is this car after 100k miles? Will it be able to run smoothly for another 100k miles? I checked the engine the other day and it looks little bit dirty and rusty which makes me worried about the maintenance cost, is it expensive to repair a OB? Can anyone tell me your experience with yours OB on a high mileage, I appreciate your help! :D
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    At that age and mileage my primay concern would be head gaskets, followed closely by the front main seal.

    I believe a new timing belt it due at 105k miles if it was not done already, and they should change the O-ring (front main seal) at the same time. Just build that in to the price if it was not already done.

    You can have a compression test done to see if the head gaskets are in good shape. If they are now, at 100k, they'll probably never fail.

    -juice
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    Oh, right.... my apologies! I was thinking of occking regarding the tires. It is disappointing to hear that his mileage is still so depressed. 10% is quite significant, especially with those miles. Heck, at his rate, his '05 will have more miles than my '96 (and I have a little more than 202K today) in another year! :P

    Treadwear and all-season effectiveness (along with price) were the primary factors in choosing the TripleTred for me. I suspect that these are the last tires that will be mounted on this car. I put about 22K a year on mine, so if they last their full 80,000 treadwear I would have 275K (some time in 2009) on the car and I doubt that will happen - at least not while it is our primary driver!

    I do not use premium. I did for the first few tanks I had it in Alaska, but there was absolutely no change in fuel economy or performance (granted, that was during the first three months I owned it... the trio of hell!) so I stopped pouring my money down the pipe. The overall cost, as a % of price, is much less now than it was back then. I think prices were about $1.45 or so when I first brought it to Fairbanks in 8/2000 and premium (91) is always $0.20 more than regular (87) here. The best MPG was a tank I put in at Spokane, WA. I drove it about 380 miles to some little town in British Columbia before filling up and put in about 12.5 gallons - it worked out to 30.9ish mpg. I put in 87 all the way from Helix, OR to Fairbanks, AK because many of the pit stops along the highway did not carry anything better than 89 and Canadian fuel prices were wickedly high anyway. That 30.9 was my "glory tank" that gave me false hopes! The best since was mid 28 and normal summer highway these days (at least last summer) is 25-26 depending on cargo and driver. If occking's observations hold true for me, I could lose another 2.5 mpg off of that! Hopefully some of the tuneup work I've done and will do this spring will offset it a little...... :sick:
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • suebahroo2suebahroo2 Member Posts: 4
    :cry: We have a 2002 OB Wagon 2.5Ltr 4Cyl. It has 32K on it. It went today for new head gaskets. It started as a coolant leak and started overheating, etc. There seems to be a lot of information on the internet about it. Mostly from other owners who have had problems, not from Subaru. They are covering the repairs, and we appreciate they easily corrected the problem. But we thought this car was reliable, we bought it because CU recommended it and it fit our needs. Our questions is now do we keep it. Has anyone had this problem with the coolant leak? Has there been anyone who has had a recurring head gasket issue, after the repair. We would appreciate any insight.
  • bargamonbargamon Member Posts: 302
    In the book "the world according to Garp" they are looking a new home and at that moment a plane crashes into it.

    They buy the house on the spot.

    Why? Cuz "what are the odds of that happening again".

    Consider yourself lucky it happened under warranty.

    The new gasket is a better version and you should have many years of service.

    Its not chronic, but its a weakness that you will have taken care of.

    If I were looking at buying used one, yours would be at the top of my list BECAUSE you had the new "better" gasket installed.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    CR does note about average engine problems for that year, though it improves dramatically after that, which is when Subaru started using a new gasket material.

    You should be OK unless it overheated very badly and warped the heads. Did you drive it long after you noticed it was overheating?

    -juice
  • suebahroo2suebahroo2 Member Posts: 4
    I don't drive too far so I was be able to turn it off when the temp went up. It needed water a lot. I kept on top of it. But we thought we needed a hose or a clamp tightened. It took a while for us to figure out it was serious. I'm curious about the gasket. What makes the new one so much better. The dealership told me they are still using the same one, which baffled me. From the research I've been doing, head gaskets are a problem that has been a thorn in Subarus side for years. And I really think that the "conditioner" they recommend is not the way to fix a recurring head gasket issue. We took the CR survey, at that time we weren't having this problem. We were advised today by someone to get rid of it before the warranty expires. Still not sure what to do, we get it back tomarrow. Also need to find out what warranty extension applies.
  • bargamonbargamon Member Posts: 302
    I am in the process of getting a used 02' 2.5 4cyl manual with 49k on it.

    I understand the warranty for drive train (and head gasket) is until 60k.

    Have they extended all the 02's to warranty the gaskets until 100k?

    Thank you in advance.
  • suebahroo2suebahroo2 Member Posts: 4
    The drive train warranty is 5 yr 60K. The repair we just had done is covered under that warranty. But there is conflicting info available about the warranty that applies if your car has been affected by the "campaign". We never received the letter from Subaru dated 2/04 to add the Conditioner. So the first we knew of it was last week when we were trying to figure out what was wrong, overheatng, bad smell, etc. If he conditioner was added and they still had to replace the HG's the warranty is 8yr 100K. We were beyond the conditioner helping the problem by the time we got it to the dealer, which is 2 hours from here. We'll talk to the dealer this afternon to clarify coverage.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    It's odd because some were, some were not. Our 02 Legacy did not fall under the campaign, but we have a Gold 7/100 warranty anyway.

    I looked again last night, in 02 the CR rating for engine is below average, but for 03 it jumps to above average. Again, this data tends to agree with what we have observed here.

    The gasket material was supposedly revised. That was their claim at the time. CR's data and our empirical data from observations here at Edmunds tend to confirm that hypothesis.

    That's all we know.

    -juice
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    When I replaced the gaskets on my '96, the construction of the gaskets were indeed different between the ones that were on there (and terribly deteriorated!) and the ones I put on there. I purchased the replacements in March of 2003 and it was part of a complete gasket/seal kit (from Subaru), so I do not know if it is different from your '02s originals or not.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    To begin with, the HG problem that affects the pre '00 DOHC engine, and the post '99 SOHC engines (there was overlap depending on the model) is not the same.

    From what I was told, the DOHC gasket is now on either rev 3 or rev 4. This engine most often failed for internal passageway leaks, and the head bolts are found to be loose, as though the gasket were compressing excessively, then delaminating.

    In the case of the SOHC engine, the open deck design has excessive creep, resulting in external leaks first, but now were are hearing more and more of internal leaks and overheating. At the time my very early '02 went (mid '03 with 15k miles), I was told that the gasket series had not changed. The conditioner was announced about a year later, and is a leak-stop type and possibly a gasket sweller, meant to rebuild the wall as creap damages it.

    My source - a former regional rep that now makes a robust business out of repairing Subaru failed HG's as a private garage. BTW, a certain other birdie eluded to much the same when I asked on the phone to confirm what I had heard....

    Now why many '02's (including mine) are not covered by the extended coverage campaign is a question I could never get answered by either source. I forced the issue on my own and had my dealer change the coolant and add the conditioner last year, but I have no way of knowing if it will help, or if SoA will assist me if mine then blows at high mileage. I too have a SoA Gold plan, but only to 6 yr / 80k miles.

    And so far, the data for '03 and beyond engines looks better, but nobody will say why. I cannot help but wonder if some very minor change in molds or casting technique of either the block of head somehow changed the dynamics of deck creep.

    I'm not sure that we are ever going to know the 'real' story on all of this. Yet I love the car anyhow!

    Steve
  • bargamonbargamon Member Posts: 302
    Thanks!

    Seems to not be all of them. I suppose I need to just think that a 900-1600 repair is in the future.

    I got such a good deal on this car I have room to pay down the road if its an issue not covered under warranty.

    I won't see the car for few weeks and maybe the records are available. At worst, when the 60k service comes up I have the coolent flushed and the conditioner put in.
  • suebahroo2suebahroo2 Member Posts: 4
    Thank you for that information. It is very helpful. I don't believe the gasket alone is not the main problem, and have been thinking all along that there has got to be a design problem. And I don't think they know what to do about it. I bet they have replaced a zillion head gaskets in the past several years. It will be interesting to see about the reliabilty in the 04's, 05's, 06's in a couple of years. The car runs fine, the total bill was $22.00 for a headlight. Asked the service guys at the dealer about the extended warranty, we got a lot of "I dunno's". No one there could tell us if they added the dreaded conditioner. I called Subaru today and here's what they said ... That my VIN is not part of the campaign, we will only be extended the remainder of the original 5 yr, 60K. The repair is warrantied for 1 year, unlimited miles. I asked if we still have to add the gunk and they said yes for every coolant change. I said what if my car has 63,000 and the HG goes again, and it's known I had this problem, I'm on my own? He said they review it on a case by case basis and gave me a case number. I didn't feel very good when I hung up the phone. I love my Subaru too and it's almost paid off, but it will be sold before the end of the 1 yr repair warranty. I am really disappointed. I think Subaru needs to find a better way to address this. :confuse:
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    You are in the same boat that I am in. Somebody made a seemingly arbitrary decision that SOHC engines from '99 thru some magic date code in '02 will benefit from the conditioner and are deserving of the warranty extension. My '02 hit the dealers lot in Sept, 2001, yet is not covered. What makes it different from it's siblings? Whoever thinks the problem was solved missed something, as mine was dripping at a mere 15k miles...

    Well, like I said before, I am going to just roll with it and see what happens. But no, the answers I've gotten are not confidence building.

    Steve
  • ic_designeric_designer Member Posts: 28
    My left rear OEM tire (RE92) completely blew at 33,000 miles with many tread life left on my 02 LL Bean. Replaced with a Goood Year. After driving 14000 mile on the 2nd set of tires, the nail got the sidewall on my rear left tires (can't be patched) with 9/32 tread life ( brand new 11/32). I am pretty unlucky with road harzard. Order a new set of BF Goodrich tires from Costco. What is the best way to drive safely (10 miles) to Costco with Donut tires. Besides placing a fuse to put the car in the front wheel drive mode, where should I put the donut tire, front or back?

    Alland
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    General rule is to put it on the back. Does the '02 Bean have a locking rear differential? Would that cause a problem? :confuse:
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I think that one does have a rear limited-slip differential, so in that case I'd put the spare on the front axle.

    -juice
  • ic_designeric_designer Member Posts: 28
    02 Bean does have a LSD for the rear. I am not that bum out about it. I just have to wait for my Odyssey tires (T rated) to wear out, and put the three H rated Good Year tires and RE92 (I saved one RE92 from my first blown out) in my Odyssey since it requires the same tire size and load rating.

    Alland
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    Yeah, as long as you keep your speeds down, it should be okay for 10 miles on the front. Is the nail still in the tire? If it doesn't leak too fast, you could just leave the tire on it for the trip to the shop.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • sedona1sedona1 Member Posts: 4
  • sedona1sedona1 Member Posts: 4
    The Saga:

    Brought car in for a routine 16,000 mile checkup:

    Had a set of new front Brake Pads ( under warranty)'
    Brought car in for 36,000 mile checkup. Another new set of Brakes.
    Changed the oil at 41,000 miles.
    Now need a set of Back Brakes and a replacement of the Valve cover gasket.

    Is this normal??? It is according to the dealer. Help.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    For brakes?! I replaced the original rears (as far as I know) on my '96 at 194K.... about 6 months ago. The original fronts were replaced at, er, 112K?. Something like that. I was planning on sticking a new set on them this summer at some point and the car will have ~215K. I think something is wrong with yours or poor braking habits. If other vehicles you've owned did not experience similar pad life spans then it probably points to the braking system itself. What kind of fuel economy have you received? I wonder if they are dragging for some reason. No problems with the rotors?

    Valve cover gasket is not something with which to be alarmed necessarily. They can be very sensitive to heat and/or slight oil overfills. So, if nothing specific happened to which you can point as a possible culprit, that one could just be bad luck! It is an easy and quick fix. Do not expect them to generally fail that often though.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • tremtintremtin Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone know where is the fuel filter for a Legacy Outback (EJ251) 2004? It may sound like a stupid question, but the fuel filter is NOT where I expected to find it(like my 2 other subarus), near the windshield washer fluid tank. I looked everywhere, and I cannot find it.
  • rob_mrob_m Member Posts: 820
    The front brakes were done under warrantee on my wife's 03 Outback at 21k about 6 months ago. The caliper slides were stuck, and wiped out the outer pads. The only sign was a tremendous amount of brake dust on the rims. Rob M.
Sign In or Register to comment.