Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Subaru Legacy/Outback

1216217219221222230

Comments

  • sedona1sedona1 Member Posts: 4
    I have had several sport cars, and braking is not something I do often. To me it seems like this is a parts defect(I am hoping).
    But since both the front pads have been replaced twice and the rotos once at the 20,000 mile interval
    and the the back are going out at 40,000, I am a bit skeptical. Subura has denied replacing my rear brakes.
  • pf2001pf2001 Member Posts: 110
    Tremtin,
    I took my OB 04 sedan for maintenance. The rep told me the fuel filter is in the tank and does not need to be replaced until 60,000 miles.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    Well, then I stand by my original assertion that there is definitely something wrong with the braking system. 40K miles for rear disc pads is insulting. Have you tried to get SoA involved? What was that 800# again, juice? 800-SUBARU3?
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • sedona1sedona1 Member Posts: 4
    Already called them, and have a "case Number"

    But SoAn says that this due to my driving so My cost,
    I will probably dump the car, because I can not depend on it. Thanks for all your advise.
  • petroniopetronio Member Posts: 18
    Does anyone know if the 2002 wagon came with side curtain airbags? I can't tell from the Edmunds summary.

    Mike P
    Poughkeepsie
  • cptpltcptplt Member Posts: 1,075
    I think the side curtain AB only started with the latest model lineup in 05.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    That's a definite No.

    -juice
  • outbacklemonoutbacklemon Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2003 Outback that surged forward into a post while I had my foot firmly on the brake. It surged almost 10 feet. Subaru claims this is impossible. I am looking for anyone who has had a similar experience. The first time this happened was at 1600 miles and the second time at 14,000 miles - in between it ran o.k.
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Another Ody owner?

    '02 Outback wagon
    '02 Odyssey EX

    Put the spare in the front, leave the fuse alone, and drive to Costco.

    Steve
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    To be fair that does sound hard to believe, and impossible to replicate...

    That would require two complete system failures: brakes and throttle. And they're independent of each other.

    You sure your foot didn't slip?

    The only thing that could release the brakes is the ABS sensor, but you were standing still. Was the car ever submerged in water? A flood car perhaps? That can seriously mess up the electricals. Did you buy it new or used?

    As for the throttle, while the car is warming up the RPMs will be slightly elevated, but not enough to oversome the force of the brakes. No way, no how.

    In fact the brakes are probably 10 times more powerful than the engine, there is no way they could overcome them completely, which explains my ABS theory - the brakes had to have completely failed.

    I don't think they had throttle-by-wire for MY2003, so that's a mechanical system, not electrical.

    Maybe the carpet wrinkled up under the pedals and hit the throttle? Nothing else explains this - it would require a mechanical throttle failure and an electrical ABS failure at exactly the same time. :confuse:

    -juice
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    Hmm.... yeah, that's a tough one, though I think I heard mention of a surge on these boards once or twice before... except the person rear-ended another vehicle in the driveway! Was the car cold or warm? If the idle was at, say 1200-1500 rpms, there is sufficient power to propel the car forward fairly quick, but with the foot planted on the brake.... no way. Did the rpms jump way up when it happened, I mean, did you hear the engine noticably rev? I'm sure your thoughts more were occupied with the MOTION of the car at the time...

    I wonder if maybe there is air or some other defeciency in the brake line that allowed you to "bottom out" on the pedal. Maybe a failure in the power assist? That could render your efforts rather moot. I was strap-towed home about 9 miles a couple months ago and my leg was EXHAUSTED by the time I made it home from trying to employ the help of the brakes to stabilize our towing effort! A normal application of the brake would yield exactly zero effect to slow the car appreciably.

    :confuse:
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • kidchellinkidchellin Member Posts: 11
    I am hearing that 1 1/4 inch hitch is the only size that will fit on a sub outback wagon. HARD to find. Would a 2x2 work? Recommend any particular rack?
    thanks vicki
  • kidchellinkidchellin Member Posts: 11
    Last year I inquired on tires you all like for the OB wagon. I put on the Good Year Assurance set and love them!! Great ride and handling. Thanks. vicki
  • bat1161bat1161 Member Posts: 1,784
    The Outback takes a Class II hitch, which is the 1 1/4". As for a bike rack, depends on how many bikes, and what type you prefer. Check out etrailer.com or bikenashbar for some choices.

    Mark
  • kidchellinkidchellin Member Posts: 11
    Thanks Mark - vicki
  • outbacklemonoutbacklemon Member Posts: 3
    I had driven about 2 miles before trying to park in a parking space at a shopping center. The car was almost completely stopped when the engine gave a roar and the next thing I knew the hood was in my windshield- it had surged almost 10 feet. If not for a pillar I would have ended up in a 99 cent store window. Nearly hit a man walking in front of my car on the sidewalk. I do not know what the rpms did at that time.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    Ah, well, that does sound like an engine rev! :blush:

    Crazy; and, since you were slowing to a stop and not entirely stopped yet, the engine most certainly could have overcome the amount of brake force you were applying at the time. I am wondering if perhaps there is something wrong with the cold idle control or the torque converter. As you were stopping, the motion resistance of the brakes was putting more drag on the engine and lugging the engine. Normally the torque converter allows the slippage that will let the engine keep running (such as when you are stopped at a light with the vehicle in gear). If the ECU detects the engine is cold, it also idles the car faster to warm it up. So, if the torque converter was not slipping properly AND the engine was still cold, it may have overcompensated for some reason and set the idle way too high for just a moment.

    Whatever the reason, that is scary... something akin to a horse that bucks! :surprise:
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I'm happy with my OE hitch and bike rack. It only holds 2 bikes, but it does tilt out of the way. It even came with a lock.

    Here's a pic. Use Subaru Bucks and it's free (that's the Subaru Chase Master Card program).

    -juice
  • kidchellinkidchellin Member Posts: 11
    Very cool. thanks. sube chase master card? Free bike rack? tell us more!
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    You get 1% credit on all purchases. It adds up over time.

    Thing is, unlike the GM card, you don't have to buy a car to use them. You can use them for service.

    I've used $200 for accessories and $300 at the body shop. That plus I have another $500 accumulated. It's sweet. I don't pay for anything any more. I could even do a timing belt next. Who knows?

    Get one, they're great.

    -juice
  • snowbeltersnowbelter Member Posts: 288
    Actually, its a 3% rebate on all purchases, up to $500 per year, and payable in $100 increments. Detail on the SOA website.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    Excellent.... a convenient bike rack AND increased passenger capacity from 5 to 6! Not bad! :P
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • jeffer3jeffer3 Member Posts: 22
    OK, here's the deal. I take a size 10 & 1/2 shoe, regular width. I am having a hell of a time getting my left foot to find a comfortable resting position. There is that little foot pad which can accomodate about 3/4 of my foot but there's about a good couple of inches on the front outside of my shoe that hits that lump which protrudes out. No matter how I move my foot it just does not rest squarely so enough of my foot hits a level surface. Sometimes I turn my ankle out so that the outside edge of my shoe rests on the floor along the foot rest thingy. But I can only do that for so long.

    The question is does anyone have any ideas of what I can do to create a completely level surface that would accomodate my entire foot? I think either I have to pound in the protruding part of what seems to be the wheel well, but I don't know what's under there. Or I have to build up the part where the actual foot rest is to the level of the protruding part. But I don't know what would be the best way to go about that or what materials to use.
    Other than this I like the way the car drives and handles but this is starting to drive me crazy.
    Oh, I have an '06 OB 2.5i wagon with 1,400 mi.
    thanks
    Jeffer3
  • gilmymangilmyman Member Posts: 2
    i want to get a turbo for my non turbo subaru legacy. what all do i have to buy so i dont blow my engine.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    DOH! You'd think I'd know, since I actually have the card.

    xwesx: it's also a convertible for that 6th passenger! :D

    gilmyman: buy a Subaru that came with a turbo to begin with.

    Seriously, though, N/A engines run too-high compression for the level of boost a turbo would provide, so you'd have to rebuild the engine internals to even hope to turbo it. Even then, the pistons aren't forged, there's no oil jets to the bottom of them, the block isn't a semi-closed deck design...there's no easy way to go from your engine to a turbo.

    On top of all that, most insurance companies won't even insure a modified car like that, mine went as far as sending me a letter (regarding my Miata).

    Shop for a high-mile used WRX, and trade yours for it.

    -juice
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I have the same issue in my Miata. Size 11, some times 11.5, and the footwell is even smaller.

    To be honest I haven't found a perfect solution. I did put spacers under the front of the seat tracks, to tilt the seat away from the pedals, and give me more thigh support. That helped a little.

    -juice
  • occkingoccking Member Posts: 346
    Since January 05 I have earned $1900 in Subaru bucks, and, so, far, have used 600 of them on Maintenance. I maxed out three cards last year and already more than 50% maxed on one of them this year.

    You can earn up to $500 (in $100 increments) for any purchases using the Subaru Master Charge. Although I have read you can use a maximum of $2000 when redeemed, I don't think that is true & you can use however many you have (just have to watch out for expiration date -- they are good for four years I believe)

    Will probably cut back usage a bit cause there are plenty of cards around CITI, etc., that will pay a full 5% for all purchases for gas, from drug stores & supermarkets. Shell is always advertising cards that pay 5% cash back & usually throw something in for free at the beginning once you use it a few times. Recently Shell had a promotion in which I received 15% off gas purchases at their stations for 90 days. With all the traveling I do, that saved me close to $100 bucks. Now, I believe get a new card, use it 3 or 4 times & get $25 gift cert for some stores like Circuit City, etc.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    How many miles do you have on your '05 now... and do you still have the TripleTreds on it?
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • jeffer3jeffer3 Member Posts: 22
    Thanks for the reply but this has nothing to do with my thigh support. The problem I have is that in order to be comfortable I want to be able to have my left foot be totally and squarely planted on the same surface at the same level. As it is now it ends up bending in one way or another. Currently if I put my foot on the foot rest, a significant portion of it will hang over towards the brake side because the foot rest is too small, which is a result of a protruding area which seems to be part of the wheel well.
    So the question is if anyone else has this issue and if so what can be done.
    I have considered 2 options. One being increase the flat area by pounding down the area which is just adjacent and to the left of the actual tiny foot rest. Is this part of the wheel well and would it be a problem to flatten part of that to increase the foot rest area? If it's only the wheel well I don't think it would be an issue but if there is something under there it could create a problem.
    Option 2, adding something on top of the foot rest to build it up to the height of the protruding area that I would pound down in option 1. If so what would be a good solution for that.

    I hope I'm explaining that correctly.
    Anyway thanks in advance.
    Jeffer3
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    That is beyond what I'd be willing to try. You may end up having to do some fabrication and then re-carpeting to get it to look right.

    Hey, at least there is a dead pedal, the CR-V we test drove had none at all.

    -juice
  • jeffer3jeffer3 Member Posts: 22
    juice - thx again, yeah I'll have to figure something out. I even thought of taking it to a body shop and see if there's anything they could do. I'd be willing to pay money for a more professional solution. All I can think of right now is shaping a block of wood or a piece of rubber or something of that nature and a little duck tape to strap it down. :confuse:

    - Jeffer3
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Block of wood maybe, just secure it with something more than just duct tape. You don't want it loose and near the pedals, that could be dangerous.

    My buddy's sister adopted a dog, a beautiful collie. She drove it home in her car, and the dog was scared so it jumped on her lap. It slipped down to the footwell, and long story short, she ended up wrecking the car. She was OK, the dog too.

    Any how, the dog was named "Boo Boo". :D

    -juice
  • dave226dave226 Member Posts: 22
    Hi folks, I'd like to do some preventative maintenance on my 2000 legacy. I know the manual does not address changing the power steering fluid, but I've been told that it's a good idea to do so. Being kinda handy, and have changed my antifreze, brake fluid, diff etc etc myself I want to tackle the power steering fluid. Unfortunately, not quite sure what the procedure is.... any helpful advice would be welcome.

    Thanks from Canada.
  • gilmymangilmyman Member Posts: 2
    where is the IAT (intake air temperature) sensor located at on 1995 subaru legacy?
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Dave,

    The shop manual is kind of vague on this. From what I see, there is no 'drain plug' per se. It looks like the most logical procedure would be to jack up the front, remove a high pressure line from the steering rack, remove the reservoir cap to relieve any vacuum, and turn the wheel back and forth to 'encourage' it to drain???? I'm just guessing here based on some of the component service procedures.

    Refilling looks to be a pain, as the goal is to remove all of the trapped air. Leave it behind, and you get lots of noise along with accelerated wear. With the front raised, rotate wheel back and forth while topping off. Again with wheels on the ground.

    Steve
  • dave226dave226 Member Posts: 22
    Seems to me from what you've stated, my best bet is to get the rack professionally flushed as I can't risk air being trapped within. Thanks for your input Steve.

    Dave
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Sorry I couldn't be more detailed, but the shop manual was written by a man who used very few words, and personally I have never done it. I replaced a pump once on my Ford truck, but never a rack.

    Steve
  • occkingoccking Member Posts: 346
    I now have 43,000 miles on 05 outback. 16,000 miles on the triple treads. Never ran into bad weather this year to be able to tell how good they really are. My gas mileage really dropped at the time I put in those tires, and now, with warmer weather mileage on long trips up slightly. Maybe 26 mpg, still a little less than I was getting last fall on the OE Potenza tires. So far, in 16 months have earned $1900 worth of Subaru Bucks, and spend
    $600 worth on Service.
  • ucfknight91ucfknight91 Member Posts: 6
    Jeffer3,

    I'm interested in if you were able to come up with a solution to the "Left Foot" issue. I have the same problem and I think it may be causing a problem in my left ankle. I have the '06 Outback 2.5i Wagon w/ about 4,000 miles. I can never get my left foot into a comfortable position and recently I have been having problems with my left ankle. It started as a feeling as if it were bruised, then the area around my ankle turned numb (like if your foot fell asleep, but all the time). I've tried positioning my foot in different ways and I think the numbness is starting to subside now, but it is very hard to find a comfortable place for my left foot. I thought that it must just be me because otherwise why would they have such a poorly designed and uncomfortable left foot position?

    The only other complaint that I've had so far has been with the POS OEM trailer hitch and its incompatibilty with most (if not all?) bike rack locking systems. In my case I have a Thule "Snug Tite Lock" that will not work because of another poor design by Subaru. OEM Hitch Thread

    Like I said, happy with everything so far except the retarded design of the OEM hitch and the uncomfortable left foot position.
  • legacy_gt_dclegacy_gt_dc Member Posts: 4
    Does a 2001 Legacy GT LTD have a distributor cap that needs replacing?

    How frequently should it be replaced?
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    There is no distributor cap in the conventional sense. The coil pack is located on top of the intake manifold, with ignition wires between it and the 4 plugs. The coil pack gets a direct electronic input and delivers the high voltage to the wires/plugs.

    Steve
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    It looks a bit like this. Note my wires have been chewed by a Chipmunk. Really.

    -juice
  • legacy_gt_dclegacy_gt_dc Member Posts: 4
    Thanks! But does the coil pack have to be replaced on regular maintenance schedule? Or is this a long-life item with no moving parts and very slow wear/tear?

    I don't recall any mention of it on the official maintenance schedule that is in my owner's manual.

    On my previous car, the distributor cap needed to be replaced every 30K miles or so.
  • cptpltcptplt Member Posts: 1,075
    I've never replaced my coils except on my 98 when it got to 120K (all my other previous Subes were traded in before 100). Its not on the maintenance schedule of the owners manual. My mechanic who was (still is) the only Subaru Senior Master Tech in my area recommended the replacement at 120K.
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Conventional distributor caps need to be replaced because the high voltage arc between the rotor tip and the cylinder electrodes eventually leads to carbon track formation on the surface and in fine microcracks in the plastic. Moisture, temp changes, etc., all serve to promote this. But as the coil pack has no moving parts, it is far less likely to suffer the same fate. Eventually, dielectric breakdown in the transformer windings leads to loss of voltage and eventual death. But that could take 10 years.

    Think about the HV coil on the car with the distributor cap. It lasted pretty much the life of the car. Your coil pack is that unit times 4 in a compact package.

    Steve
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    If it's bad you'll get misfires and eventually a check-engine light, so you'll know.

    -juice
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    I'm sure it will get there, but I am at 206K and nearly 11 years since manufacture on my '96....
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • pf2001pf2001 Member Posts: 110
    Hi all,
    I received a quote for the Gold Plus 7yr 100k warranty $100 deductible for $1375. Is this reasonable or could I bargain down?
    Thanks.
  • marksobmarksob Member Posts: 2
    For what it's worth.... Several years ago two vehicles, Audi 5000 and Jeep Grand Cherokee, I believe, had a series of incidents of what was labeled "unintended acceleration". Cars and property were damaged, people were injured, lawsuits were filed and investigations initiated. Car and Driver magazine was involved, did their own investigation and tests. Result? Drivers, usually relatively new to the vehicle (but not always), were hitting the gas pedal instead of the brake, the relationship of the two pedals being somewhat unique compared to past owned vehicles. Car (possessed by demons!) would abruptly accelerate, which led driver to press harder (on gas pedal), which inevitably resulted in injuries/damage. Experts agreed and proved that NO car, even the most powerful sports cars, had an engine powerful enough to override the brakes. Simple test- stand on brake pedal, floor gas pedal, observe little or no forward motion. Nobody was willing to admit they could make such an embarrassing mistake, some even claimed they had turned off the ignition and vehicle still accelerated out of control, which would have required simultaneous failures of three independent systems: brakes, throttle, and ignition. All vehicles' systems were tested and performed normally after these incidents.
  • marksobmarksob Member Posts: 2
    At the risk of sounding nuts, here is my story. 2005 OB XT AT, champagne, bought new, 35,000 miles. Numerous little dings/dents appearing under/near side mirrors, front and rear quarter panels, and side doors. Car is driven only by me, always garaged, never parked closely to other vehicles in parking lots, at work it is locked inside place of business with no activity in proximity of car. No kids ever around vehicle, not hail damage (hood/roof/tailgate are perfect). More and more dings continue to appear, most of them in places that could not even be contacted by other vehicles' doors. Took it to reliable local body shop that I have had previous positive experiences with and they were also mystified. This vehicle is within 1000 miles of being off warranty and I am concerned. It is not abused in any way, not driven offroad, no gravel roads, garage is large and I am the only occupant of house, nothing is accidentally impacting the car. I am just wondering if anybody else out there has a similar experience. Thanks.
Sign In or Register to comment.