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Comments
-mike
If I go with an OEM hitch (Option it is rated at GTW of 3500lbs. and a TW of 350lbs (1.25" class II Hitch). I would never try to tow beyond the vehicle ratings, but this hitch give me more support for the bike rack and I could install it myself and save a few bucks.
My question is does anyone have experience with Subaru dealers in a situation where their is a warranty drivetrain problem, but the vehicle has an OEM hitch.
Please let me know and also provide opinions on Option A versus Option B.
Thanks
-mike
1 what is the minimum cold cracking amps needed for the battery, I have checked at a couple shops and I get conflicting asnwers
2 when I'm at idle and turn something on, such as lights, or fans, it sounds like power is taken away from the engine, why does this happen
3 I get about 26 mpg on the highway, can I do better?
As for the power you may need a battery or alternator if you are feeling the power loss when turning on accessories.
26mpg is pretty good, driving with cruise on at a lower speed may yield better mpg but on a 10+ year old car 26mpg is pretty good.
-mike
Thanks, Tim
Paul
Are you ordering the car from the factory or picking it up from the lot? I know when I got my 06, the dealer quoted me around $500 to install the hitch and wiring (I was picking it up from the lot).
Good luck!
Mark
Just don't exceed the max tongue weight for your vehicle, which is usually 10% of the max tow rating.
I am interested in a 1999 Subaru Legacy GT AWD... I was wondering if anyone knows of problems or mishaps with this certain car?
Thanks,
Chris
Jegster347@yahoo.com
Thanks.
Otherwise mine was pretty bullet proof, only other major work was the a/c but that was my fault as I had a fender bender which I think caused a freon leak which then damaged the compressor. The power radio antennas needed replacing twice too(had an ext warranty otherwise they aren't cheap)
It has stopped working and it is not the batteries. I think I've read where these can somehow become unprogrammed? Anyway I was wondering if anyone knows how to program this so I can try it.
Thanks
Could also possibly be any one of a number of sensors or even the alternator.
It is almost a 20 year old car, and sometimes it can be difficult to track down a problem like that.
-mike
Jim
Monica
-mike
Any ideas what could be causing this difficulty before I call the dealership?
THANKS!
Besides that, it's still spark or fuel. I'm not sure what it is about lateral acceleration that sets this off. Maybe the fuel pump is too weak? Clogged fuel filter?
Does she ever get a check-engine light? Running rough? Any other symptoms?
XM Satellite radio
Home Link
Bluetooth capability for hands free cell phone useage
Keyless ignition (push button start like the Camry)
I have been able to document the XM Satellite radio and Home Link are currently available in the 2008 Subaru Outback LL Bean 3.0 Wagon, but have found nothing on the Bluetooth capability or Keyless ignition and assume they are not available.
Does anyone know of any consideration for these features to be in the 2009 vehicle? I currently have a G35X and am considering the new EX35 for its utilitarian value, but if the Subaru had all the features I wanted, I could save ten grand.
Does a Subaru rep ever give info regarding projections? Am I expecting too much to hope for Bluetooth and Keyless ignition in this vehicle?
Bluetooth I would imagine may be in the 09 as it's an option in the 08 Imprezas.
-mike
If you recommend Subaru mats, where is the best place to get them? Anyone try the Waterhog mats from LLBean?
We are a family with kids, in MA, so think lots of snow, wet, sand/ice melt, beach sand, mud, etc.
Thanks!
Hope this helps
Nigel
I purchased my 05 OB LL Bean with H6 back in September of 05. I purchased the Outback because my Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland was getting a combined 13.3 Mpg. I had rented an Outback during a trip to Washington State and at the time it seemed like a practical vehicle with decant gas millage. I purchased the H6 because of a comment the dealer made at the time about the 4 cylinder with the turbo. I have had a number of discussions with two Subaru dealers and Subaru of America about the poor gas millage I get with this car and have come to the conclusion that Subaru of America hides behind the EPA ratings. The problem is that I have never been able to achieve even the low EPA numbers. My combined number is in mid 14s. I live at near see level with no more than couple of hundred feet of elevation at the highest point in a mostly warm climate. My driving consists of 25% city and 75% freeway respectively. All together I don’t spend even an hour in sitting traffic in a week so I can’t see why the millage is so poor. I’ve looked around and have noticed one consistent thing about the Subaru product and that is your millage may vary drastically depending on I don’t know what .My wife has had 3 VWs and one Audi over the past 8 years and except for one that had a diesel engine that got us nearly 50 Mpg on the highways, we always got respectable millage. In fact we drove her A4 for nearly 4350 miles with 102 gallons of gas on a recent road trip. I have tried different brands and grades of gas and even octane booster with my OB and have had no luck. I wonder if anyone out there might have a suggestion that could help improve the gas millage in my car.
Thanks,
KR
-mike
If I take this to Subaru, what do you suggest I mention to avoid having the service department replace everything under the sun or will their diagnostics be better able to pinpoint a possible problem?
Thanks again!
Mark
At 75K the clutch started slipping, and when I took it apart I discovered that the clutch was not worn, but rather soaked with oil leaking from a composite material cover plate on the block behind the flywheel. On the recommendation of the local Subaru parts dept. guy I replaced the composite cover with a metal one.
Front oil seal blew at about 90K. Various check engine lights have come on and gone off since about 70K miles.
At about 120k miles, I had the typical head gasket symptoms (quite common in the 2.5 of this vintage - check engine lights, followed by overheating, etc, etc), and ultimately bought and installed a remanufactured engine from CCRengines.com. That engine lasted 10K miles, and I had to have it removed, shipped back to Colorado where CCR repaired it (free of charge, but it took 6 weeks!), and re-installed at an additional $1100 expense (By Bill Cook Subaru in Ithaca NY, where they were EXCELLENT in all regards).
I would say whoever is selling the car is probably getting out just in time, and you'll be getting a car at just about at the point where things really start to fail.
I could be wrong, but I wouldn't take that car if someone gave it to me with $10K in the glove box!
Of course it it's OK now, I would leave it be.
For my most recent acquisition, I went with MacNeil WeatherTech Floor Liners. They are thin, semi-rigid rubber "tubs" that fit in the foot well of each front seat, and a continuous liner for the rear seats (including covering the bump). The best feature about them is that they run up the sides of the wells a short distance, to protect the sides along with the bottom. Available in black, tan, or grey, they look great with any interior.
I have the taupe interior on my car, so in Alaska that means lots of dirt real quick without protection. So far, they work fabulously. I purchased the tan ones, but, in retrospect, the black ones would have looked far better. The tan does not quite color match the taupe and the black would contrast it nicely.
The front liners are also extremely easy to pull out and dump should water or ice buildup be an issue. The only drawback I have found is that because they are fairly smooth, ice buildup can make the driver's footing a bit slippery. Again, pop it out, dump it, and you are good to go.
The mileage you list for your old Cherokee seems extremely low to me as well, so it could be a situational problem more than a problem with the vehicle itself. It is tough to gauge long-term results on a short trip. I had an '07 Mercury Grand Marquis rental car in Pennsylvania for a week. In mixed driving (much of it city), I got 33 mpg from that car, and it had a big ol' V8 in it. Talk about shocked; I expected mid-to-high teens at best. But, I am not ready to run to the Ford dealership to buy one....
David Carter
You push the stalk itself to put the highbeams on.
-mike
Aside from that, follow Mike's directions above.
I quite appreciate the stalk layout on Subaru vehicles. It puts everything you need to drive right there at your fingertips. Quite a stark contrast to my '98 Dodge Caravan, where everything has its own switch or button mounted on the dash or console. Bleah. The '08 Outback even has the fog lamp switch integrated into the rest of the light control stalk. I do prefer the under-mounted mini-stalk for cruise control used in past years to the new front-of-the-wheel mounted buttons.
I wish the fogs came on with only the parking lights.
I'm not sure how the DRLs work cause mine are disabled. I hate DRLs.
-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host
Ugh. Me too. Granted, I keep my lights on all the time, but I use the actual lights rather than the DRLs. My annoyance with them comes from the drivers who fail to turn on their lights at dusk or when dark because they think their lights are on due to the scant light provided by the DRLs.
The other issue I have is that most DRL cars have illuminated dashes, which means they can see out the front and their dash is lit. However when I'm coming up behind them, their TAIL LIGHTS aren't lit. I think if you are going to have DRLs they should also turn on the parking lights or the tail lights at the least.
I've almost rear ended several Lexus, Outback, and Volvo drivers that didn't bother to put their lights on after dark.
-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host
I think all cars should have auto on headlights when they get dark, how expensive can a light sensor be these days?? my 2000 venture had one!
-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host
You can leave the lights on all the time. Like Subaru, they turn off automatically when you park the car. The only difference is the Toyota gives you a 30 second delay with the lights on, presumably to help if the parking lot is dark.
So it's easy enough - just turn the lights on the day you buy it, and never touch the lights again. :shades:
Also, disabling the DRLs is as simple as removing a fuse/relay. Funny thing is I found out because people wanted to add DRLs simply have to plug in the provided spare fuse.
Now they are far dimmer, and use much less power. You can barely tell mine are on unless you look straight at them.
I didn't know it at first, because of the 30 second delay, but 2007s have the auto-off feature.
Just Friday night I had turned the interior lighting on while driving the last mile or so to my house. My son needed to see something he wanted to do; I arrived home, shut the car off, unloaded him, and went inside. The next morning, the whole family piles in to the van at -20F. We are about 10 feet from the driveway and I say to my wife, "I think you left a door open." She looks around, asks me which one I think it is, and it dawns on me that I left the dome light activated.