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Greg
Theo, I never tried it on the front bar, just the back, and had the same problem. I cranked it down even harder and angled it slightly toward the front of the car, about 80 degrees from the roof. Stayed put at 75mph.
..Mike in MD
..Mike
Having said that, It is very important to have your car perfectly level when you check the oil. These engines have the dipstick right on the front (at least the H-6 does) and are very sensitive to level. My driveway is just slightly uphill and when pointing up registers a qt low and when pointing down registers a qt high. When I pull into the garage it's perfect. There is no magic here. Let the engine drain a minute, wipe the stick, insert and look. What you see is what you got.
I don't know why the sevice departments are so determined to overfill these engines. After all how many modern gas engines use more than 6qts (even V-8s) I called and complained for all the good it will do.
Good luck,
Guy
-mike
When you change it yourself, you know it's done right.
bit
Pat.
Matt/mreimink: For the 98, I've read good things about Subaru Legacy Automotive Repair Manual : Models Covered : All Legacy Models 1990 Through 1998 by Mike Stubblefield. Factory service manuals (repair) are available from www.subaruparts.com : select Accessories, Search, enter "98 manual". Price: the princely sum of $583.34 . Per site:
Use for both Subaru Outback and Legacy. Yes, the price is $583.34 The only way to get a full set of books is to purchase all of the books from '95 to current.
For the Owner's Manual, go to www.subaru.com, register yourself and vehicle, download the PDF.
..Mike
..Mike
My Legacy has about 29k and I thought the owners manual suggested changing the plugs at 30k. Since plugs aren't very expensive, I figured I'd replace them. Look at the placement of the cylinders on the 2.5l engine, it looks like changing plugs is a bit more involved then with other cars I've had. In fact the owner's manual also mentiones this and suggests bringing the car into the dealer for plug replacement. That is why I was hoping to hear from someone who has changed their own plugs.
Chuck
Greg
Greg
If you lay down and stick your head under the car you SHOULD be looking directly up at a plastic cover which blocks access to your oil filter. If you are not then it is has come off or the dealer didn't put it back on. Supposedly its to help force air into the engine and improve HP. I don't know if it really makes a difference. The older OB's didn't have them.
$ 26,600 + Tax and Lic = 29,400 out the door seem a little too much for me. The dealer has Demo LL bean with $12,000 miles for about $ 26500 out the door is that good?
I did also test drive a regular 4 Cylinder outback
I did not notice much difference expect that the LL bean shifts smoother.
The wife likes the highlander for cargo space, for putting in a car seat in and out (new infant).
I did hear the highlander comes with an AWD version or is that a mistake, they mean a 4WD version.
Did anybody went though this dilemma, if yes please shed some light.
Thanks
-mike
I haven't done the plugs myself, but I recall an earlier post saying that you need to squeeze the rubber boots to release something (an internal clip device) to be able to pull them off. Just grope around a bit and I'm sure you'll find it after a few tries. I also plan to (at least) pull my plugs at 30K to eyeball them (and depending on how tough it is to get them out - perhaps replace them). I've never had "long-term" plugs, but I've read if you leave them in for 60K (or in some cases 100K) that they're tough to get out of the socket. We'll see.
DITY oil changers: watch the gush of oil when you unscrew the plug - it's a darned big hole and really comes out quickly (especially if you've removed the filler cap - which I did the first time, but not any more).
Air filter - changed it (on principle) at 15K on my 2K OB last weekend - piece of cake. And you can take out the rear section of the cleaner housing to do a really nice interior clean-up (it just pops off the intake tube to the left as you face it from the front).
Cheers from the PNW.
Ken M. in baseball heaven (Seattle)
$ 26,600 + Tax and Lic = 29,400 out the door seem a little too much for me. The dealer has Demo LL bean with $12,000 miles for about $ 26500 out the door is that good?
I did also test drive a regular 4 Cylinder outback
I did not notice much difference expect that the LL bean shifts smoother.
The wife likes the highlander for cargo space, for putting in a car seat in and out (new infant).
I did hear the highlander comes with an AWD version or is that a mistake, they mean a 4WD version.
Did anybody went though this dilemma, if yes please shed some light.
Thanks
Thanks for the tips. It makes sense that there must be something to squeeze in order to remove the spark plug boots.
The dealer wants $3.40 for NGK plugs and Schucks has the same plugs for $1.90. You gotta like the dealer markups.
Chuck
..Mike
..Mike
Regardless, those rubber bumpons are important to protect the paint and keep the deflector from vibrating a whole lot. If you can, replace those bumpons whenever they fall off.
I'll try to get a pic of my deflector this week for comparison and post it here.
-Brian
26.5l for llbean with 12k miles....is not bad.....buy it with subaru extended warranty......but subarus last very long.......so this extra 12k miles won't hurt you.
2. Outback drives more like a car but highlander drives more like an suv....though it is car based.
3. Yes, with highlander, you do get a little broader car & more cargo.
4. Outback has enough cargo anyway........
5. don't know about the axiom.....isuzu does not have resale value.......so unless i get 5,000 off msrp.....i would not buy it. But if you are going to keep it forever......then this might be your choice.....esp. because of the warranty.....
-mike
I think you will find recommendations in the owners manual, however, as a general rule:
5W30 is a good default grade for average temperatures,
for consistently hot weather (daily highs in the upper 90s to lower 100s), 10W30, or even 10W40 would be suitable
for consistently cold weather (nightly lows near zero or below), 5W20 would work well
your plan to go to synthetic (Mobil 1) is a particularly good idea if you live in a cold climate - I've heard that the synthetics work very well a very cold temps.
Hope this helps.
Ken in Seattle (where I use 5W30 year-round)
There's 3 of them above each of the seat positions, just a little behind the rear seat back.
-Brian
..Mike
..Mike
Do you take the seat in/out often? We currently have an infant carrier base installed in each of our cars and haven't removed them much since installing.
-Brian
CU's review was interesting. Keep in mind it got an overall score between "Very Good" and "Excellent". Also, the wholesale price was $1400 or so less than the Passat, never mind that the LL Bean is cheaper and matches the Passat more closely. Top that off with a quicker 0-60 time and 2mpg better gas mileage, along with much better range. Passat may get the nod for handling, but which would you pick for a gravel road up to the ski lodge?
I just got back from the Outer Banks and spent a full day with my Forester on the beach south of Salvo. Took the 4x4 access ramp over a dune and onto the beach, and the Subaru AWD impressed me once again. I have some photos here, check them out.
-juice
Anyway, try it before you need it... Anyone else see this?
--jay
I too am a fan of the bargain of the lineup (Legacy L), and fully intend on recommending one to my lil' sis when she buys her first car.
Right now she wants a Camry, but the L is actually cheaper and of course has AWD.
-juice
We find most car seats a pain to remove and re-install, so we try to leave them in place. My older child is in a booster and he's large enough that we no longer have to fasten the shoulder harness, so it's easy to swap it between cars. The younger one has a car seat in the GT wagon and another in the Civic sedan.
It's a shame the US market has taken so long to develop a safety standard the most precious of all cargo -- children. (Not so elsewhere -- Graham said Australia already has a standard).
..Mike
..Mike
Mine was a T-30 and I removed the crossbars with it; I think yours is defective. Ask the dealer to replace it.
..Mike
..Mike
I'm glad we have the option of all three models, each with distinct handling, options, and appearance.
..Mike
..Mike
Lots of places will help you install them. Get help if yours doesn't feel anchored nice and tight. I have been to Fitzgerald in Rockville for a safety check.
-juice
Is there a difference between ISOFIX and LATCH? No. LATCH (Lower Anchors and Tethers for Children) was formerly called ISOFIX.
SafetyBeltSafe U.S.A. FAQ, glossary
ParentingPlace Car Safety for Children home page
ParentsPlace FAQ
CarPoint sites
After a tedious search on Edmunds, I found this:
Child Safety Seat Primer, Scott Memmer, 2001-04-17
..Mike
..Mike
Very pleased to hear everyone is back posting although I wonder how our New York Cop friend, who has not posted for a long time, is coping.
The Australian laws on child seats are fairly stringent. There are Australian Design Rules applying to vehicles sold in Australia, defining the parameters for things like Anchorage points. ADR's apply for vehicles from about 1970 and are rigidly enforced. No ADR compliance means the car canot be registered. http://www.dotrs.gov.au/land/VehicleStandards/ADR/adrindx.htm
In addition there are Australian Standards (well actually they are now Australian and New Zealand mutual standards) for child seats http://www.standards.com.au/catalogue/script/Details.asp?DocN=AS575692723708
The first standard on child seats was issued in 1970 and it is illegal to sell such products which do not comply with the Australian Standard.
There is also a high degree of compliance with seatbelt wearing and child seat legislation. I see unrestrained children only infrequently here in Australia and the Police are very rigid on enforcement. Mind you, community opinion also has its effect. It is not unusual for other parents to point out the stupidity of parents failing to protect their child in a car.
The only group where there is poor compliance with seat belt laws is amongst recent immigrants, particularly from third world countries where life is less valued. This is an education things and over time, compliance improves.
Now, the big problem! Fitting child seats and restraints is not fool proof. My boss had a new child, installed the capsule in his Jeep and then, not being too happy with it, asked me (the next youngest family around) to come and check the installation. The seat slid around wildly on the leather seats and was not properly tethered despite him reading the instructions carefully. He is an intelligent, mechanically able forty year old and he had fitted the seat dangerously. I refitted the seat with him, taking about half an hour to get it fully sorted before it matched our requirements and was stable. If an intelligent, very careful man can get it wrong, how would an average or sub average family get by, particularly when harrassed with screaming kids.
In addition, the straps on the seats do loosen over time and must be checked regularly. In particular, the tether strap which passes back to the roof restraint can become loose, removing one axis of the triangular bracing which the restraint systems rely upon.
For our kids, now 8 and 5, we use a harness which forms an H across the kids shoulders and slips over the lap portion of the seat belt. Both the lap and sash portions of the seat belt are fitted snugly across the kids lap and locked with a clip, which provides a stable base, holding the kid's backside into the back of the seat. The Shoulder harness passes over the head and is slipped through the lap belt. The upper harness is then tightened with a pull strap. For the five year old, there is also a booster seat which is actually a high density polysterene foam with a cloth covering.
Notwithstanding the care, we have had a few problems. One kid took to unlatching the buckle himself for some time, always choosing to do it at an inappropriate moment like when on the freeway. Education is very important. The other one was so persuaded of the necessity of seat belts that her teddy bear had to be strapped in as well.
Cheers
Graham
I have a LATCH seat, I find that the lower anchor point belts tend to bind when installing because of the sharp angle to the seat crease. I get a much tighter installation by pressing my knee into the seat and tensioning the regular seat belt. I also keep my son's seat permanently installed and have an additional seat for the other car. By not moving the seats around I know they are always properly installed, and the extra money is a small price to pay for his safety. In around 6 months I will be doing the dual seat in each car, and may then use the LATCH lower points.
There is also a device that helps to tension the lower belt attachment. Many safety advocate groups do not recommend this device because it does not require official crash testing. But, I thought the construction of this device seemed heavier than the seatbelt and tether straps on many car seats. The tensioner is called Mighty-Tite and can be found in many baby/child stores.
As for the name I think that LATCH is the US acronym, the system is still called ISOFIX outside the US market.
Keith, thanks for the insight into LATCH seats.
..Mike
..Mike
-juice
I am curious how does the H4 engine perform around town and in mountain driving?
Did anyone make some modifications to increase the horsepower like air filter, exhaust, chip Etc... I would like to get up to the 180 horses range.
Thanks