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  • blackflag3blackflag3 Member Posts: 29
    I recently got a 1994 Ford Centaurus Conversion van and am having problems with the battery draining. The last batter lasted about two weeks. When the van is running, and I turn on wipers, heat, etc., I can see the battery needle jumping a lot. Does anyone know what can be done?
  • blackflag3blackflag3 Member Posts: 29
    Just wondering if you ever found out any information about the electrical system for your Centaurus conversion van. I am having similar problems.
    Thank you!
  • mdb25mdb25 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1976 Chevy Van, V-8, and all of a sudden the brake lights stopped working although the hazard lights and turn signals light up the same bulb. I have replaced the bulbs and also the fuses. Does any one have any ideas on what could have caused the brake lights to go out?

    -Thanks
  • liftedhighliftedhigh Member Posts: 2
    I am in the process of lifting my 1986 clubwagon and I'm having a hard time locating parts for the fron. If anyone could point me in the right direction that would be great.
  • la4meadla4mead Member Posts: 347
    Try offroadunlimited.com I hope it helps. They have a lot of brackets, etc. for Ford. I know this stuff is around, and I've seen it at shows. Good luck!
  • gymracergymracer Member Posts: 1
    Putting an engine in a 94 Ford full size van with a 5.8 engine and having trouble figuring out the routing of the heater hose. this van has rear air. Right now I'm looking at 8 hose connections and not sure what goes where. Any help?
    Jim
  • la4meadla4mead Member Posts: 347
    For class C (mini motorhome) chassis, the Fords are the most reliable. I've had experience with both the 7.5 liter (460) with 3 speed (1987 and 1988) 11,500 gvw cutaway MH chassis and I now have a 1997 6.8 liter V10 with 4 speed OD 11,000 chassis. Either are really stout. I was told to avoid the first year of the 4 speed OD transmission which was 1989. The model you are looking at is a good model. It has EFI and OD and when running right will run really strong and cool even in the hottest weather (unlike some other makes used for motorhomes), and will tow a trailer, too. Don't concern yourself with how many miles are on the odo at all. Look at how much weathering the coach has sustained, especially around all window and roof seals, and everything mechanical. Most of the wear is from the unit sitting and not getting used!

    Check the drivetrain for the usual stuff, lack of maintenance, disrepair, especially fan clutch, radiator, tranny wear, and on the 460, leaks including A/C clamps (they were all crimped together cheaply on many earlier Ford trucks), coolant leaks, etc. The transmission shift cables tend to stretch from being parked (stored) a long time, too. Have the refrigerator fired up so you can feel it cool, but only when the coach is level. The refrigerator if it has even a faint ammonia smell will need to be replaced, about $1300-they need to be kept completely level, but many owners are not very strict about that.

    Good luck with it! :shades:
  • ggogan1ggogan1 Member Posts: 1
    Thanks for the reply. I looked up the van and it seems there have been some chronic problems. I realize that its easy to learn of bad reports. But there have been 305 Technical Service Bulletins for all kinds of issues including transmission problems related to a faulty drive shaft and seal design- etc. Do you think I should be concerned? I have another Four Seasons on a 98 heavy duty with the V10 I'm looking at too. If I do go through with the purchase, should I have a mechanic check the things you mentioned, or are there ways I can look at it and drive it listening for delays in shifting etc. I did a carfax on it and all looks good. The odometer was changing but it probably sat for a couple years and then was reposessed. Any additional info would be appreciated. Thanks again - Geoff
  • la4meadla4mead Member Posts: 347
    I'd be really concerned about one that sat for a couple years and then was repossessed. Doesn't sound like TLC. Check it out thoroughly... All kinds of weathering and seals can wear out from sitting and not getting used.

    The '98 V10 chassis is superior to the 460, though. You also have 4-wheel ABS, nice if you will use it for icy, snowy climates (ski trips), but better have a good furnace, etc. Also better A/C and engine cooling, better dash, a steering stabilizer (likely needs to be replaced) and generally more reliably built.
  • garett1garett1 Member Posts: 2
    99 E-150 4.2L V-6. Over 400,000 miles on original motor (American Quality). My problem is the a trouble code that is causing me to fail emission testing. Failed speed sensor code, check engine and abs dash lights are both on. I replaced the sensor and still nothing. Also the speedometer is still not working. I have to correct the code, and suggestions?
    Sincerly,
    Proud Ford owner
  • alaganicalaganic Member Posts: 1
    Hello,
    I just bought a 99 E250. I am having problems with the passenger side window and door lock switches. They both work fine from the driver side controlls. I can lock the door with the passenger side switch but not unlock it. Is there a child safety switch or something like that on this vehicle?
    Thanks,Alaganic
  • randalldthomasrandalldthomas Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I have the same van, and yes its electrical. You have an alarm system under your dash you probably dont know about, Ford put it there and hoped they would allways sell the option, but, they didnt... You will find a small black wire leading off of the alarm and over the top of the steering colum... pull that wire out...

    Start your van and enjoy life.

    I had the same problem, some guy told me it was the transmission; took it to the transmission shop and just got lucky that one of the guys was a big Ford Van fan, he knew imediatly what was going on... and they didnt rip me for a new transmission :)

    Hard to find honest service people these days but it sure is nice,

    Randall
  • scorpiontrackscorpiontrack Member Posts: 3
    I have owned mostly E250 vans for the last 10 years. I just recently bought a Chevy Express 2500 (extended). I like my FORD and it was a tough decision to go to the Chevy.

    I just drove the Chevy back 9 hours from Kentucky. The biggest difference to me is the Chevy gives you more of a 'minivan' feeling. It is a smoother ride and better gas mileage than my FORD. The Fords just seem to be 'tougher'. I guess time will tell..

    I am a little disappointed that the GVW on the 2500 is only 7500 and therefore is a 6 lug wheel vs the 8500 GVW on my FORD with 8 lug. I wasn't aware of this before I bought it. The advantage to this is parts are cheaper and it rides smoother. The dis-advantage is that I pull a small Bobcat occasionally and I am concerned with the stopping power.
  • bodybuiltbrockbodybuiltbrock Member Posts: 13
    I couldn't find a better place to put this, so here goes. You know all the church vans and contractor's vans, the Ford Econolines? Well, Ford has created a genetic freak out of them - with a Super-Duty front end on them.

    image

    Uh, interesting is being nice for this thing.
  • jimmie2jimmie2 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1993 Econoline with the straight six engine. The problem I'm having is that the fuel injectors are'nt opening. The injectors get battery (+) from the ignition switch whenever the switch is in start or run. The battery
    (-)comes from the PCM(computer). It pulses the ground to two seperate legs. One for injectors 1'3&5 then another one for 2,4&6. The problem I'm having is that I'm not getting the negative(-)from the computer. I replaced the computer and still didn't get it. I want to know if anyone know of a sensor that could cause this to happen. Any help would be emmensly appreciated.
  • janstefanjanstefan Member Posts: 1
    Hi! Good Morning from the Southern Appalachians!
    Just bought a 2005 Chevy Express Cargo Van that had been used as a mobile office, so its got nice walls with A/c and heat in the back, ceiling with halogen lights and a 3000 watt inverter.

    Normally I am pretty good at finding the right answers on the 'Net (former librarian) but I can't seem to find any specifics on converting this van for camping. That is how to add a converter for a small fridge, making some storage compartments, that sort of thing. I'm getting ready to build a bed frame with storage under, but would you clue me into good books or other websites or online stores that would help with this project?

    Any other tips would be most appreciated! Gotta get ready for the big trans Canada trip dream!!!

    jan stefan
  • wpatterswpatters Member Posts: 54
    We have a Dodge B350 15 seat van (1 ton truck) and the speedometer has stopped working and it doesn't shift correctly. Someone told me this was due to a broken speed sensor that was located on the drive shaft. Does that sound right? If so could I test it by finding the sensor and unpluging it to see if nothing changed? It just all of sudden happened and the engine light came on when this happened but it doesn't always come on now when we drive it.
    Thanks for any help :cry:
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Member Posts: 255
    My neighbor has a 2000 full size cargo van with a bad crankshaft. I've never pulled an engine in a van before. Does it come out the front after removing the grill, does it come out the top from inside, or does it come out from the bottom? This will be a first for me. Up till now I've always steered clear from vans due to restrictions. Any suggestions are appreciated. :)
  • billyscottbillyscott Member Posts: 2
    Under the Driver;s seat should be a wire harness which goes through the floor.. That plug always gets wet and corrodes causing the Speedo to not work....Clean it up and should be fine
  • billyscottbillyscott Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 Dodge 2500 Van V8-5.2L VIN Y that has a cam out of sync code...Yes, I replace Dist Cap, Rotor and cam sensor as well as crank sensor but they are still out of sync with no good reason....Anyone buy me a clue?
  • iamnicknitroiamnicknitro Member Posts: 1
    hello there i have a 1984 gmc cargo van i want to make an ultimate monster with extra engine parts i have on hand. It originally had a 4 bbl carb on top of the stock 305 but it was quite worn (odometer had rolled over and is reading 114k as it was used for a forklift repair van) replaced it with a 350 from an older suburban and worked great for a while but is loosing its touch as it is an older engine but what can you ask for when you get the whole suburban for 200 dollars with a shot body. But now i have a 1988 camaro iroc with the 350 tpi engine with front end damage but no apparent damage to the engine, transmission or rear end and i was wondering if it was possible to put any if all in that van to make it a custom ride as i want to use it for just hauling paintball gear for my paintball team as well as dress it up to look mean to have an original look and feel (although people will be calling it my a-team van) i just want to be able to use parts i have on hand and save a buck i think it would be cool to have power of a muscle car but body of a van. I understand the drive shaft might be a different size and the van is carbureted and the camaro is fuel injected but if i use the same intake from the old van (if possible) can i put a better or just newer carb on it or is it possible and not difficult to make it fuel injected. reason why i ask cuz i got excellent fuel mileage cuz it was running great before it was damaged (spent 4 years fixing engine and a many of dollars fixing it) not to mention it was quite quick to go. i will not be doing any heavy loads maybe a utility trailer to haul garbage to the dump (couple hundred pounds) as i have been working on the interior to make it nice inside with nice carpet and custom interior as well as lighting audio/video installations done by my self. so if any one can answer my questions or tell me where i can get my answers that i need please tell me as i am eager to do something unique
  • nwraaanwraaa Member Posts: 177
    Does anyone know how to adjust the transmision in a 2000 Ford E150 van so that it does not downshift out of overdrive into a lower gear? On slight inclines, my van constantly downshifts to a lower gear. I have owned other vans before, both Chevy and Ford, with overdrive transmissions but none constantly down shifted like this van does.
  • la4meadla4mead Member Posts: 347
    I think the shifts are electronically selected based on ratio, available torque, and throttle position among other things. You may have a drivetrain combination with a tall final drive gear ratio and/or insufficient torque combination to leave it in OD. There may be an adjustment, but I don't know of one.

    Check for improper engine tune and trans fluid/filter and vacume modulator (if there is one).

    Shifting out of overdrive manually when you start to climb and on steep terrain is a very good idea to avoid the automatic downshift and the stress on the tranny and your nerves. I'm used to shifting mine, staying in 3rd (pressing the button on the end of the shift, OD is illuminated) until the top of the grade and shifting back (extinguishing the OD light). Also, slowly giving more throttle in 4th it holds gears a little longer than the cruise servo does. But you already thought of that.
  • nwraaanwraaa Member Posts: 177
    The problem with my van is that the inclines are not steep. It has been my experience with the other vans that they would not downshift out of overdrive until I made a command for a down shift by depressing the accelerator pedal almost to the floor. There is no engine misfire on with this van. I am using a code reader and there are no codes showing on the reader. Except for the down shifting issue, the transmission is working okay. I know that on the Chevys, there is a cable which, if not adjusted properly, will cause the transmission to shift improperly. I was wondering if there was some device that could be adjusted on the Ford vans. This was not an issue on my other Ford vans.
  • la4meadla4mead Member Posts: 347
    I know older, mechanically shifted models used a cable and a vacume modulator. I don't think that's true for more modern electronically-shifted models (but I'm not an expert, either). If it was a sensor or ECT problem, I think you'd find a code.

    I hope someone knows and you find out you can adjust it. But I'm left thinking it's just the final drive ratio/engine combo you have, since it's apparent there is no other problem.

    If it turns out there's no mechanical adjustment, perhaps an aftermarket ECU controller might help, similar to the ones used to adjust engine control functions. Banks has one for the larger-output RV motors. There are many aftermarket manufacturers, many include adjustable shift controls.
  • fredrick50fredrick50 Member Posts: 1
    I have a Ford E-250 cargo van with a 4.2 liter engine. When it first starts up it runs great but once it warms up it idles low, the oil pressure light (low) goes on and the engine makes a clunking noise. Recently I was on a forum (can't remember where) and several people had the same problem and there was some discussion on a bad oil pump causing the problem. Does anyone have experience with this problem?
  • whitewolf651whitewolf651 Member Posts: 1
    is it posible to take a 95 truck rearend and put it in a van without to much grief?95 dodge truck to 98 dodge fullsize van.
  • cmanglecmangle Member Posts: 3
    I am replacing the AOD tranny in my 1992 Ford e-250 conv. van.

    I am hearing horror stories about making sure the throttle valve cable is adjusted correctly or I could burn up the replaced tranny.

    Is this something I can do, I work as a mechanic in general and have broad mechanic skills wit the exception of tear down/rebuild tranny experience.

    "IS THERE" a major problem with this "throttle Valve" cable that I should be aware of and can I re-install my used trans without the assistance of a tranny shop/technician?
  • henry10shenry10s Member Posts: 7
    You would have the 4R70W transmission. It is electronically controlled by the PCM. This is not a normal behavior. Ford transmissions are notorious for this, and there can be different, the simplest causes are Vehicle Speed Sensors, and more involved such as valve / solenoid malfunction, OD Servo, or insufficient fluid pressure on OD clutches, or worn out clutches. These last 2 require re-builts (worst case). These causes usually do not illuminate the "Chek Engine" light.

    If you have a transmission test gauge (about $ 55) you can run simple line pressure tests yourself. If you haven't done this before you need to go to a specialized Transmission shop for them to diagnose it, usually about $ 100. They are also pull codes which a $ 100 Code reader can't.
  • henry10shenry10s Member Posts: 7
    I think your transmission code has the letter "E" in it as well. I think in 1992 AOD were electronically controlled.

    Yes, incorrect TV cable can ruin the transmission. You need to follow Ford's Shop Manual for the correct procedures to set this right.

    As a general mechanic, you should not have problems for DIY for taking out and installing the replacement. Re-building is another matter. Of course, you are a lot better prepared to do a re-build than most shade-tree mechanics, however you will need patience, time, be diligent and be willing to research and learn.
  • henry10shenry10s Member Posts: 7
    It a common FORD problem: the VSS wire, harness or both have been damaged. Run continuity tests to troubleshoot.

    ABS may not be related to the VSS problem.
  • henry10shenry10s Member Posts: 7
    Ford's Oil Pressure Sender and Oil Pump are common problems. Clunking noise is definitely not good. You should not drive the vehicle. I would troubleshoot or even change the Sender first ($ 22). Advice: sender needs a special tool called "Oil Pressure Sender Removal Tool" about $ 25, available at most auto parts stores.

    Oil Pump is not very difficult to change for DIYers. Don't let a $ 100 pump and 2 hours of work cost you an engine failure.
  • henry10shenry10s Member Posts: 7
    Make, Model, engine size?
  • henry10shenry10s Member Posts: 7
    Yes, PCM is supposed to ground the injectors. You need to pull codes. The you need to run diagnostics. For this you will need a Ford Shop Manual and schematics.

    It appears that your PCM is in fuel cut-off mode for some reason. Several inputs (sensors and switches) can cause this. Are you having any other malfunctions?
  • henry10shenry10s Member Posts: 7
    Typical Vehicle Speed Sensor symptoms. Check its wiring BEFORE replacing it.
  • dave5861dave5861 Member Posts: 4
    I've got a 95' Ford 250 Van...4.9 liter motor. I started it and it stopped running. Motor turns over, but it won't fire. Coil wire is connected securely???
    Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
    Thanks in advance...Dave
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