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Subaru Legacy/Outback

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  • ray_cray_c Member Posts: 36
    Is their a way to turn off the head light in 2001 Outback while driving? I’m taking my family to see Christmas Light tonight and is recommend that head light be turn off while driving through the park.

    Thanks,

    Ray
  • herzogtum71herzogtum71 Member Posts: 470
    This question came up with the '03 Toyota Matrix, and someone posted that if you start the car with the parking brake engaged at the first notch, the headlights (running lights) won't go on as long as you don't release the parking brake. I didn't try it, but others didn't think it would do any serious damage to drive a short distance like this with the parking brake on.
  • ray_cray_c Member Posts: 36
    I know that when the car is in park and the park brake on will shut off the light. I didn't know that you could shut it off while driving with the park brake on. But I don't think I will do that. Maybe I can just pull the fuse
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    Just pull up the parking brake a single click, and it will disable the DRLs on an Outback without engaging the brake.

    On my wife's 03 Forester with auto trans, you can't do that trick -- the DRLs come on anytime you take the transmission out of Park.

    Craig
  • grahampetersgrahampeters Member Posts: 1,786
    G'day

    Message 9461 has been posted across more than 25 boards by tudor. Suggest usual response of deafening silence until the Hosts catch up.

    Cheers

    Graham
  • kmcleankmclean Member Posts: 173
    However, [larger] aircraft have utilized anti-skid and "traction control" systems for decades (at least since the 1960s), and short of just quitting, they've been reliable and hazard-free. And those systems take a real beating from hard landings to wild temperature variations (-55C at altitude - up to +40C on the ground) - not to mention the occasional AAA site.

    Nice rant, though - made my Saturday morning.

    Christmas cheer to all!

    Ken in Seattle
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,396
    Yeah, interesting thought but systems like this are designed to be failure neutral...if it fails it acts as if it isn't there at all.

    Like the guys in big SUVs thinking they can barrel along at high speeds because they have 4WD. When they hit their brakes, the 4WD acts like it isn't there! 8~O

    Jim
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Spam removal was delayed by boarding; gone now :-)

    Steve, Host
  • herzogtum71herzogtum71 Member Posts: 470
    I test-drove a 2004 Outback wagon this morning -- base model with 4 cylinder engine. The brochure says nothing about warning lights. Does it have a complete array of warning lights -- low fuel, oil, brake, check engine, etc? If someone could give me a complete list, it would be great. Thanks.
  • lancerfixerlancerfixer Member Posts: 1,284
    It's got a little voice that sounds like Jeff Goldblum in "The Fly..." a pitiful "help me!" wail; it's up to you to figure it out.

    :-)

    Seriously, all new cars have a full array of warning lights...I see no reason the Sube should be any different, especially since some (like the check engine light) are mandatory (ODB II, and all that.)
  • steine13steine13 Member Posts: 2,818
    ... what lance said.
    And they ALL light up when you turn the ignition ON and they all go off -- hopefully -- when the engine starts.
    -Mathias
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    Yep, it has them all.

    Craig
  • lancerfixerlancerfixer Member Posts: 1,284
    I just reread my snide remark and realized this is the identical system my two week old son uses...he sure could use a couple idiot lights.
  • herzogtum71herzogtum71 Member Posts: 470
    The other manufacturers list the lights in the specs. One that I know is not available on all new cars is the low fuel light. If it hadn't been in the brochure, my Toyota dealer would not have run a diagnostic when we thought the low fuel light wasn't working on our '03 Matrix.
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    I happen to have a PDF for the Impreza Manual, and it lists some of the same lights as my Outback:

    Seatbelt warning light
    SRS airbag system warning light
    CHECK ENGINE warning light/Malfunction indicator lamp Charge warning light
    Oil pressure warning light
    AT OIL temperature warning light (AT vehicles)
    ABS warning light
    Brake system warning light
    Low Fuel Warning light

    Outback also has a light for VDC if so equipped, and may have a couple others I'm not thinking about.

    Craig
  • subah6subah6 Member Posts: 34
    It has been raining here in Sydney and I just discovered something I hadn't noticed before on my new Outback. Whilst I have the rear wiper on intermittent and I then select reverse gear, the rear wiper then goes to continuous wipe instead of intermittent so as to have a clean rear glass for reversing. I never noticed this on my previous H6 but I find this an excellent feature. Was it on the previous H6 Outback? Does anybody know? Its not listed as a feature, but it should be as it is an excellent idea. :-)
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Very clever!

    I love discovering smart little features like that.

    I hope the slow-dimming lights didn't go away. Do they still do that?

    -juice
  • rshollandrsholland Member Posts: 19,788
    That's the first I've heard of that one.

    Bob
  • hoodatbehoodatbe Member Posts: 5
    hi guys - so i have decided to go with the outback '04 ltd. 5-speed . . . what i'd like to pick the collective brain about now is warranty . . . i will put 30k miles on this car each year, thanks to my long but gorgeous commute. i am considering the extended warranties (mostly the one that takes me up to 100k, for which they are asking about $1200). if i am going to be putting so many miles on so quickly - are extended warranties even worth my while? wha'da'y'all think?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I think if you do so much mileage in less time you are less likely to have things fail.

    I think they have a 5/100 warranty, see if that's cheaper than the 7/100.

    -juice
  • subah6subah6 Member Posts: 34
    Yes Juice, they still have the slow dimming interior lights.

    Funny thing with the rear wiper set up when I first discovered it was that I thought it was malfunctioning. I'm thinking (whilst I was still in reverse gear) why aren't the rear wipers wiping intermittently. It's on intermittent on the switch yet it's going all the time? What the hells going on? So I put it in park ready to get out of the vehicle and then it goes back to being intermittent. Then the penny dropped.

    I remember a few years back on a previous car thinking, wouldn't it be a good idea if they DID wipe all the time when you're reversing. Obviously somebody suggested it to Subaru.

    There are alot of things in the new spec Subarus that have been given alot of thought or they've been suggested by customers as cures for problems.

    After I had my previous spec Outback H6 for a few months I told my Subaru service representative that the H6 should have a few features like:
    1) trip computer - now in the new spec.
    2) different wheels to differentiate it from the 2.5i as more "upmarket" as they both had 16" rims - the new spec H6 has 17" rims as opposed to the 2.5i's 16"
    Apperently, from what I've been told, the service reps were to ask their customers here in Oz what features or things could be done to improve the Subarus.
    Maybe they listened to me. lol
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    What functions does it offer? Instant gas mileage? Miles to empty? I'm interested.

    17"s would be sweet, too.

    This type of stuff is what's keeping me on the fence, vs. just buying a Forester XT now.

    -juice
  • subah6subah6 Member Posts: 34
    Trip computer offers the following in a four function scroll.
    1) Kms/lt (mpg for US I suspect)
    2) average kms/lt (ave mpg for US)
    3) kms till empty (miles in the US)
    4) outside temp

    Another feature you may not be aware of is there is a small screen (2.5" x 1/2") on the map light/rear view mirror console that displays the seat belt status. The front passenger seat has a sensor that detects whether someone is sitting on the seat or not and displays whether they have their seat belt done up via a red "person on seat with seat belt on" icon.
    The rear seat passengers display a green light when they are buckled up. If you have, say two people in the rear seat and only one has their seat belt done up then only one green icon is displayed and you therefore know that the other person has not put their seat belt on. Quite a nifty little set up.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Good stuff. More reasons to wait 'til the 2005 arrive.

    -juice
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Trip computer. Love it! They pulled that from the XT/XT6s. We had them back in the 80s.... Go figure.

    As for the 30K diffy. I'd do em, but then again we charge a lot less thn $440 for the 30K service. We usually charge $265ish for the 30k with the diffys it bumps to like $300.

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    That's just it, mid 90s was an era of de-contenting. Now they are re-contenting! We're getting all the good stuff back, plus new safety features.

    It'll be hard to resist!

    -juice
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Just catching up..... I opted last year for snows on rims for both the Outback & Odyssey, so now had to devise a storage solution.

    At Home Depot I found large ladder/shelf/utility storage hooks that I modified. They are tubular, white painted w/foam on the lower section and a black plastic cap on the end. The lower section is right angled for about 6", with an upturn for the last 3". They are rated for 50lbs. I cut off the upturned section, and replaced the black cap on the end.

    I mounted some lumber high on the wall to bridge the 16" studs, then mounted these brackets along them. A few layers of duct tape cover up the wall and screw sides of the bracket to prevent any possible wheel scratching. Carefully knock out the center medallions on the alloys (light tap from the inside with something large and soft), and mount the wheel on the brackets with the front side facing the wall. The foam (and tape) cushions the wheel contact points. This reverse mounting also puts the load spot very close the the wall, so the bracket load rating of 50lbs anywhere along its span is really now optimized.

    I clean and wax them prior to putting them up, and store the center caps in a baggy. Maximum garage floor space restored, as I can now walk under them!

    Steve
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Seems like I recall a thread last year that suggested the best way to store tires was flat on their sides. My tires live on the back porch that way. (plus there's no way would I have the energy to do all that Steve, esp. not after traveling around the world to pick up the new kiddo!)

    Time to play with the search tool I guess.

    Steve, Host
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    hmmm, all I see off-hand is that storing them on their edges on the floor can lead to flat spotting, but hanging them should remedy that issue. Maybe a trip to Tirerack.com is in order.

    Steve, Host
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Yep, I did that Fall '02 when I got the snows. It was a one-time investment in planning & labor that pays dividends for years. I am sure that they must be out there, but I couldn't find any hooks commercially available that work as well as what I made.

    Still, it takes some expertise to heft 50lbs up over your head and on to the hook.

    (after that trip, anything can seem easy.....)

    Steve
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Heh, I've dropped my 60+ pound canoes a few times too many as it is (broke my driver's side mirror on the van doing that).

    Luckily my designated storage area on the back porch is more of a utility than public area and it's a short roll to get the tires out there twice a year.

    I am inclined to take a rubber mallet to the spare tire holder in the Outback so the full size spare will ease in there a little easier.

    Steve, Host
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    First you need tirerack.com, then I guess you need a tire rack! ;-)

    -juice
  • steine13steine13 Member Posts: 2,818
    Learned Friends,

    I just had the pleasure of test-driving a '98 Legacy Wagon, 5sp, 79k, well maintained and fairly clean. Asking $6,700; wholesale value -- as appraised on another board, and by the local Toyota dealership -- is $4,500 "real money". So I went and looked at it.

    Two things turned me off, one which I understand and another which I don't.

    (i) There was some seepage of oil, not enough to form drops, from the very front of the engine... looked like a black cover just behind all the pulleys and the serpentine belt. Much crud accumulated at the underside of the seal and on the lower radiator hose... looked like a thermostat housing, but shouldn't that be near the top? Anyway, didn't look like a big deal, but I was wondering if that was a frequent problem on the 2.2l

    (ii) This one was odd. I revved the engine in neutral, and beyond maybe 2000 rpm, heard the typical whiny Subaru valvetrain noises, but underlying all that a deep growl that sounded mechanical, and a touch too loud for my taste. Then I drove the car and after a couple blocks pulled over again and raised the hood to listen some more.
    There was a definite vibration that seemed to come at 1/2 crankshaft speed. Reminded me of another Subie I drove over a year ago (95 legacy) taht was running on 3 cylinders, but that one didn't do the growling thing. It sounded metallic and pretty deep. Also, the shifter vibrated with it fairly hard.
    It is quite possible that it is "normal" for the car -- I don't have enough experience with these engines. If my 1.8l 4cyl in the Vibe made that kind of noise, I'd KNOW I got a problem, though. The engine pulled reasonably strong, but the vibration made it feel rough.

    FWIW, the check-engine light lit up when I turned the ignition on and went off when the engine started. Under OBD-II, it has to have complex misfire detection. So that would argue everything OK, but man....

    Any ideas?
    TIA
    --Mathias
  • kmcleankmclean Member Posts: 173
    This is one for those of you with true technical expertise in things automotive. Although it involved my '97 Maxima, next year it will be my 2K OB.

    I've had a variety of cars tested for emissions in a number of locations since the late 1970s, but today was a new one (I'm in Washington State). There has always been a tailpipe "sniffer" as the main test component, but today the fellow had me hop out of the car, at which point he hooked up his diagnostic analyzer to my OBDII port. His and my computer conversed for a few seconds, and he pronounced the test over. I did pass, which I expected, but I was both surprised and a bit concerned about this procedure (testing provide by Agbar, a contractor to the WA DOL).

    All the "results" were systems tests of my OBDII system (MIL, O2 sensors, misfire detector, etc.), and no actual chemical measurements, such as HC, CO, O2 and NOx that I've been accustomed to.

    Now, not being a total troglodyte, I realize that if OBDII says that everything is cool emission-wise, it probably is. But if the bottom line is what is actually going into the air, this indirect methodology bothered me. Not only is it qualitative (yes/no) rather than quantitative, but the precision of the relationship between OBDII functionality and a [legally] non-polluting engine is unclear.

    Comments? Similar experiences?

    In any event...Happy New Year to all!

    Ken in Seattle
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    That's how they do it in Boise, at least for cars that have the OBDII connection. My Quest threw a code for running rich last year, but it had cleared itself and I passed the test ok. I never noticed a CEL light but the code hung around in memory somewhere until the guy read the OBDII.

    Steve, Host
  • sebberrysebberry Member Posts: 148
    How do you find the Outback's stock tires to be in the snow?

    I know snow performance is low on the "All season" chart, but a recent trp to the ski slopes left me disappointed.

    I found that when the car wags its back end, it was surprisingly hard to bring under control, and in some instances took at least 5 or more subtle yet definate corrections to set it straight.

    Now, the car does have 28,000 kms on it, so I don't know how this much wear affects the snow handling.

    It almost left me wanting, oooo, let's say an '05 H6 with VDC... :) (The nav system would be nice, I did almost get lost)

    Ciao
  • jlemolejlemole Member Posts: 345
    New Jersey just went to the OBDII test this year, for all cars 1996 and later. Older cars still get the tailpipe sniffer and the dyno. I think the tradeoff is ease of testing vs. the small chance that the on-board computer is not functioning properly. In New Jersey, though, if the CEL is on, they won't even hook you car up until you have it repaired at an "emissions certified" mechanic.

    Seberry: I've found the OEM Bridgestones to be poor in snow -- enough so to negate the value of having AWD in the first place. I've toyed with the idea of getting a second set of rims and snows, or switching to something like Nokians year round. RIght now I'm leaning towards riding out the Bridgestones (I'm at 38k miles now) and getting the Nokians to replace them.

    Jon
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    The water pump/thermostat is on the bottom on newer post 80s subies, so that is in fact where it is. The seeping is fairly common on the 2.2 and 2.5L motors.

    Was the car fully warmed up when you tested it? My dad's '97 2.2L makes a racket til it's warm, as does my '97 2.2L as well.

    -mike
  • steine13steine13 Member Posts: 2,818
    Thx for the response. Yes, it was fully warmed; certainly by the end of the test drive. The noise was reminiscent -- in pitch, anyway -- of car running on 3 cylinders. But the OBD-II would have caught that, I think. I could just be hyper-sensitive, but in the last 18 months I've driven an '03 Outback 5sp, a '95 Legacy 5sp with one dead cylinder, a '95 Legacy auto running well (200k miles) and now this one. The noise is there, it's loud at elevated rpm, and it sends strong vibrations through the stick. I'm completely stumped. And no, it ain't valve clatter from partially deflated lifters. THAT noise I know; had VWs in the past.
    -Mathias
  • postmodernpostmodern Member Posts: 38
    Once they have a few K miles on them, the OEM Bridgestones are horrid in snow/ice. My daily commute takes me between Westchester & Dutchess counties on the hilly Taconic here in NY. The trip is against traffic, and with ice a common addition to the snow both on the road and in my driveway, I opted for factory studded Nokian Hakk2's last winter. They were installed during a freezing snow/rainstorm, so I immediately felt the difference on the drive home -- my face hurt from all the smiling! Studded or not, snow tires are a perfect addition to Subaru AWD. If you're debating the tire cost, think of it as a better way to spend your insurance deductable!

    Lyn
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Short of hearing the exact noise It's gonna be hard to figure this one out :(

    -mike
  • robr2robr2 Member Posts: 8,805
    That's how MA does it as well now. OBDII created a standard connection for the diagnostic port is my understanding as well as storing all sorts of emissions related information.
  • steine13steine13 Member Posts: 2,818
    I really hate to let this one slip by; well-kept 5speeds for a reasonable price are hard to find.

    How about this: I know the 60k (incl. t-belt) was done at a corner-garage-type repair shop, not the dealership. They either overtightened the timing belt OR didn't replace the water pump and tensioner. Therefore, now one of those two components has developed a knock (most likely the water pump) and that is what I'm hearing. I like it because it fits the facts: Goes with camshaft speed, doesn't rob power, computer won't pick it up -- and the owner didn't notice it because it came on gradually.

    What's nice about it, it's basically a redo fo the t-belt for, what, $350? Unless I do it myself...

    Whaddaya think? You like? You buy?
    -Mathias
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Mine is awsome for racin.

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Mathias: first problem is a leaky O-ring, i.e. the front main seal. It's not as common on the 2.2l but it happens. It should be replace with the timing belt, at 79k miles I expect they either skipped this service or re-used the old seal, a no-no.

    You really want to know if it's worth buying? Do a compression test, look for no more than 10% variation. If you have a leak it's prolly the head gaskets, in that case run, don't walk. It may have had a history of overheating.

    OBD2 will sniff out (pardon the pun) any gross polluters, so yeah, it should be effective just to read that data.

    -juice
  • gearhead4gearhead4 Member Posts: 122
    In Illinois, we have switched to the OBDII connection for the emissions test. This test is only as good the the vehicles OBDII computer and it's sensors. All it takes is one bad sensor to invalidate the test.
    The reason the states are going to this method of testing is because it saves them big bucks and it proves they don't really care about emissions.
    From the vehicle owner pespective, it saves then time and money. The O2 sensor is upstream of the catalytic converter, so you can remove the cat converter and the OBDII system won't know the differece. Replace the conveerter with a similar shaped can and even a visual inspection won't reveal the corrupted emission control system.

    -Jim
  • robr2robr2 Member Posts: 8,805
    But I believe that OBDII can detect missing or defective sensors.
  • steine13steine13 Member Posts: 2,818
    or malfunctioning WILL be picked up by the system.

    There are at least 2 O2 sensors on these cars, one before and one after the catalyst. The second one monitors the catalyst's function.

    -M
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    IIRC some Subies have 3 sensors.

    -juice
  • steine13steine13 Member Posts: 2,818
    That's what I meant by "at least 2".

    Many (all?) modern engines have the first O2 sensor in the exhaust manifold. That means two sensors for V and boxer engines. Anyone know how many sensors there are in Vokswagen's W-12 engine :-) ?

    -m
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