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I just purchased a 2001 Ram Ram Vam 1500 conversion. I'm having problems with my heater. It only goes on High and thats it's. Is this an easy fix or what????? and can someone give me some idea's on what's going on. I love this vehicle and could not pass up buying it.
Also, check Amazon.com for books (besides the Haynes manual) about getting more Miles-Per-Gallon. Oddly, one of the best ones was written in the 1970's, when few cared about such things. Included will be driving techniques that will improve your mileage, such as knowing when to "make" the automatic transmission shift up (by letting up on the gas), but not lugging the engine. Then start by installing (or having it installed) a tachometer. This will let you see your RPMs vs. speed; which will help you keep your foot light. The lower RPMs (again, without lugging the engine), the better. Also, more horsepower=more mpg, as long as you don't increase the fuel intake to the engine. Ways to add horsepower would be installing a high-flow oiled permanent air filter (which you clean and re-oil) like K&N or similar. Remove the resonator to your air filter box--its only there to keep the noise down, and restricts airflow. Install some premium, hot spark plugs, like Bosch 4-way (has 4 sparks instead of one), along with a copper or brass connector distributor cap and rotor (standard Ford ones have aluminum, which produce poor contacts). Upgrade your ignition coil and wires (find out how many volts your current ignition coil puts out, and doubling it will help). Don't forget to change the fuel filter and transmission filter and fluid, AND the differential fluid (most people and mechanics have forgotten this since most cars are front-wheel drive now). Remove, clean, and repack/regrease your wheel bearings. Make sure your rear drum brakes DO NOT drag, even a little (this is contrary to installation instructions). If you get really serious, you can lower the suspension, add heavier and additional sway bars and spring leaves, with heavy-duty shorter springs and shocks. This limits and controls body sway. Super-serious--add large-rim wheels and low-profile tires (rather than the Ford balloon tires) to decrease sway, increase tire pressure (up to 65 lbs), and decrease rolling resistance. (If that's too much, just get slightly lower-profile tires-and a bit skinnier-next tire change. Be sure to get tires that inflate to 44psi, minimum, and the tread is made for rain mostly (not the noisy mud & snow tires). You can even over-inflate your current tires about 2-3psi without harm. Check into installing a dual-exhaust system next time you need muffler work--and get free-flowing mufflers (and catalytic converters, if possible). A true dual-exhaust system will connect both exhaust pipes coming from the engine, usually between the catalytic converters and mufflers. At the end of your tailpipe, add a short piece of pipe that allows the exhaust to exit at a 90-degree angle to the windflow...not a sharp bend, just a 30-degree with the end part cut at an angle is best. This allows the wind (when driving) to help 'pull' the exhaust gases out. Free-flowing exhaust adds horsepower. Maybe you can get an airfoil or "wing" to put on the top rear of the van, to smooth out the airflow. Standard vans have an airflow that curls clockwise (from driver's side) behind the van, and adds drag, actually 'pulling' the van back. An aerodynamic "bug-shield" on the hood and window rain shields help the airflow, also--you can then crack the side windows up to 2 or 3 inches without it adding drag to the vehicle. Adding window-tint saves on air-conditioning (don't run it unless you need to, it eats gas) and unused seats (like the rear bench) or other things can be removed to reduce weight. Keep the engine clean & grease-free, and keep the van washed and waxed. These are the basics, but there's plenty more. A Ford E-150 with the 302 (5.0 liter) fuel-injected engine can get up to 30mpg or more on the highway (keeping it under 60mph). The 4.7-liter SOHC or DOHC engines, 2, 3, or 4-valve (whichever you have, I'm not sure) can do even better, possibly, since they have more horsepower in the stock engine. BUT--be sure to do your research, and if needed, search, search, and search some more for a very good, knowledgable, trustworthy mechanic. Hard to find nowadays.
It will have a few wires going to it in the form of a plug. Pull the plug off with the fan turned off and remove the small unit with the resistors and take it to an auto parts store and they can check it for you. If this is not it then the switch might be bad. I think you are going to find the resistor bad. Good luck.
My biggest complaint is the drum brakes on the rear & some wind noise from around the doors that I can't seem to get rid of.
It listed originally around $50,000. I bought it in 2001 used from the original owner with 19,000 miles for $23,000.
I would shop for a low mile used as opposed to a new one.
They do seem to depreciate quickly in price and as they are usually owned by more mature people are in pretty good condition.
I would try to get one from the southwest though because of corrosion.
Here is the link to the NADA page to search Van/Truck Conversion Values.
http://www.nadaguides.com/usedcars.aspx?LI=1-21-1-5004-641-627-50311&l=1&w=21&p=- 38&f=5693&gc=VL>c=CN&c=26&any=0
I'm interested in learning more about the hi-top conversion van you have for sale. Where are you located? My husband and I would like to find a well-kept, well-maintained conversion van for our growing family.Any info your could provide would be helpful! Thanks!
Thanks for the reply. Is there an email at which I can write to you? Also, can you tell me what year the van is? Do you happy to have any photos you can send? It sounds like a really well-kept vehicle and we are in the market for a Explorer Conversion Van.
I'd love to discuss via email or phone. Please let me know your email and I'll drop you a note.
Thanks Roger!
Thanks! Some photos would be great! Let me know if there is anything I can do to help.
Thanks for attaching some pictures to your page. The van looks really nice. Do you have any pictures of the interior as well? Also, are you able to put luggage on the top of the van?
Also, your profile says your email is "private", so I'm unable to email you directly.
Thanks! We'll wait to hear from you!
The specs are listed as follow:
Year Make: 2000 or newer
Mileage: Around 80,000 or more
No High Top
Prefered passenger door on drivers side too.
I am looking at buying a conversion van.. One I am looking at is a 1991 Dodge Fiesta Conversion Van, 50,000 miles, could you give me an idea of price and waht trouble things I should be looking at. My friends say that ford has the best older vans?
this is a new venture for me, I want something that will last a while and I don't have to work on .. can you give me an idea of a price. bama
Can someone tell me where I can find out how to price it? Most of the sites don't take the conversion packages into play.
I have the same van with about the same milage and my oxygen sensor has been wonky for about a year. I keep resetting the check engine light and it stays away for a couple months at a time.
I bought a cheap ELM327 based scanner that connects my van to my laptop and reads the engine computer. Pretty handy, especially if you do your own repairs.
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