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Volkswagen EuroVan

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Comments

  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    eBay Motors comes to mind off-hand.

    Check the True Market Value - a customized appraisal button is available to really narrow it down. Good luck.

    Steve
    Host
    SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
  • 4snydes4snydes Member Posts: 1
    Try all of the following sites and then average the values you consider most representative (note you will have to enter miles and condition ratings to get a representative valuation) Somewhere between wholesale and retail would be a reasonable price point.


    Intellichoice: http://www.intellichoice.com/

    Kelley Blue Book: http://www.kbb.com/

    NADA: http://www.nada.com/

    Edmunds: http://www.edmunds.com/


    www.cars.com also has a 'black book' valuation, but you must search for a similar vehicle (1993 Eurovan, click on it, then click on the black book value link.


    http://ep.com/js/nav/ has tons of vw van ads under vehicles, volkswagen. You can post there or use for reference.


    http://autos.yahoo.com/ also has a number of adds for Eurovans for reference.


    Once you determine what your reasonable asking price is, let me know. We are currently owners of a disabled '90 Vanagon looking to move up to a Eurovan. Hope this helps!


    Scott

  • furiofurio Member Posts: 1
    Just picked up 02 MV last week. According to salesman and two techs at two different dealerships, oil change is recommended every 5k miles. Manual says every 10k miles. My guy at the local lube shop says every 3k. Should I treat this engine any different than my GM 3.8 supercharged? Should I also change the oil after the first thousand miles?
  • wbenwben Member Posts: 1
    I would like to purchase an older vW van with low millage - 1990 to 1996. Low millage is important to me. Thanks, Ed
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Furio - lots of arguments about this. I tend to go with the owner's manual, but lots of folks change the oil at 500 or 1,000 miles and then every 3,000 miles after that. Guess it sells a lot of oil, if nothing else .

    Wben, one place to try is our Used Vehicle Locator.

    Steve
    Host
    SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
  • moparbadmoparbad Member Posts: 3,870
    What I was told be a large number of VW owners more knowledgable than I is that the oil should not be changed before 5K miles on the initial change. The reason was that the oil put in by the factory was break in oil and that the oil along with driving the vehicle variable speeds for first 1,000 miles would help the rings seat properly. This would help to decrease oil burning in the motor during the life of the motor. I have followed this recommendation on my two VW's and do not have any oil burning at all. For the first 1,000 miles I do not use more than 75-80% of the rev range and do not use cruise control or maintain same speed for any length of time. The owners manual has a break in procedure that is similar to what I have stated. The purpose in changing oil after first 500 or 1K miles in the past was to eliminate metal shavings and particles in the oil from the motor. Todays improved manufacturing methods are said to eliminate the need for this early oil change and changing the oil so early may be detrimental.
  • wkb4447wkb4447 Member Posts: 14
    Mr. Steve, our affable host, suggested I post here.

    I'm investigating the possibility of purchasing a VW camper van for short weekend hops to local state parks. My wife hates to camp and explore, so I would be mostly solo. We live in Southern California. Occasionally, I take longer trips, especially during the winter out into the southwest desert areas. I know virtually nothing about the VW line of vans, but have friends who either praise their wheeled boxes to the heavens, or wish they had never bought them. Is there no middle ground? What's the deal with these vans? Why are they so expensive? Are they worth it? What are the best/worst years for purchasing used (I can't afford new!)? Are they reliable? What features should I avoid or absolutely include? In the old days, van engines used to burn up...still the case? (I see a lot of ads indicating something like "'96 VW camper-van, 15,000 on new engine", so I'm suspicious.)

    Help me out, please. These boards have always been right on for me in the past. Am I barking up the wrong tree? Is there an alternative? Will my VW camper-van and I be happy and have a long and enduring relationship exploring America?

    Thanks!
  • ropedartropedart Member Posts: 163
    Final decision in June 2002 but it looks like a go for 2004. I am a little disappointed that it will be a bit expensive like the Eurovan because of the luxury platform. Here is the latest tidbit from Auto Express:
    "The Microbus will be based on the new VW T5 platform, which will form the underpinnings of a next-generation Transporter van, as well as the VW Touareg and Porsche Cayenne SUVs. In standard guise, it will be the basis of a Grand Microbus, which will replace the Caravelle and is believed to offer a spacious and luxurious interior. The large model is expected to account for the majority of US sales, but in Britain it will be a low-volume niche vehicle. The best-seller for Europe will use a shortened version of the T5 platform, and is expected to feature a clever arrangement that will allow seats to be removed individually or folded flat to increase luggage space. This means that the car will appeal more to family buyers – especially as £20,000 versions are now likely to be offered."

    I am hoping they will bring in the shorter and cheaper version. How much does 20,000 vehicle cost when it gets here (US)?
  • wvkwvk Member Posts: 18
    We had a 93 MV without the weekender package. Liked the van however the repairs were high.
    New auto trans $3,000 +, rebuilt A/C $3,200, two sets of front brake rotors @$275 per rotor
    catalitic converter $900 all within 150,000 miles.
  • wkb4447wkb4447 Member Posts: 14
    Thanks, wvk.

    Anyone else? I'm gathering opinions on VW camper-van experiences, costs, frequency of maintenance, mileage, reliability, etc.

    See #358.

    And, thanks for your input!
  • nypaulnypaul Member Posts: 35
    My wife amd I have been driving VW buses for over 20 years and just love the 1971 camper we have now. It's my wifes daily driver and our vacation home all rolled up into one. There is a sink with a 7 gallon potable water tank, an ice box, and cupboards and cabinets galore. Plus, it sleeps 3 adults and a small child. There are provisions for plugging into regular electic outlets if your campground has it or many folks fit the bus with a second "camping" battery. For sure it is the slowest thing on the hiway, but whether we're on vacation or just a weekend getaway we like to go slow. It does have enough get up and go for the around town driving that my wife uses it for.
    The down side is that being an old car it doesn't have all the creature comforts we are all so used to. You know, airconditioning, cruise control, hot and cold running water, a built in stove and on, and on, and on. Also, depending on the condition of these old cars, they can be a real maintenance nightmare. I've seen some that I wouldn't even drive around the block and others that are in better than showroom condition. And,it can be difficult to find a mechanic to work on these old aircooled VWs.
    Really it comes down to what you feel that you want or need to enjoy yourself. Take your time and investigate all your options.

    Paul
  • zavfejzavfej Member Posts: 13
    We are on our second VW bus (a 67 camper and now an 01 Weekender) and there is a world of difference in every area, BUT one thing is worse - back then they were easy to find parts for, get repaired or even attempt to repair myself. With the low volume of sales, there is a real issue with finding even simple parts - at 20K miles my front pads need replacing (an issue itself) and there are none in the country! VWofA came through and is renting me a vehicle until the parts get here, but how awful is that - no brake pads in the USA!
    I opted for the Van fora variety of reasons but tried to plan for this kind of thing by purchasing a 100K mile/10 year 3rd party warranty. It was expensive (around $1200) but it gave me peace of mind (Warranty Gold was the company I chose).
    Great vehicle, totally unique, excellent for short camping trips, huge interior volume and great seating configuration (with two rear facing seats).
    Hope that helps some.
  • mrnimmomrnimmo Member Posts: 271
    Hard to believe there were none in the country. Did you try www.busdepot.com?

    With production of Eurovans in Mexico now underway, EV parts should be available economically through aftermarket sources. Some will be VW of Mexico parts and some will be from mexican aftermarket sources. Who knows what quality will be. VW afficionados sometimes decry mexican and brazillian parts, but I'm not sure how much of this is can be blamed on germanophilia or outright racism.

    I would be surprised of VWOA changes its posture with regard to EV parts. I don't think they care about vans...
  • mrnimmomrnimmo Member Posts: 271
    >>but I'm looking to sell my beloved 1993 Eurovan GL with 73,000 miles, strong durable 5-cylinder Audi truck engine

    Exactly what kind of Audi trucks came wiht this Audi truck engine? :)
  • mrnimmomrnimmo Member Posts: 271
    Here are some prices from busdepot.com:
    Solid Front Brake Rotor, 93-6/96 EuroVan $49.95 701 615 301B
    Vented Brake Rotor, front, 93-95 Eurovan $49.95 701 615 301A
    Ventilated Brake Disc, EuroVan $41.68 701 615 301D
    If you paid 275 per rotor, you paid too much.

    Brake Pads, front, Does Both Wheels, 92-95 EuroVan $29.95 D3232M
    Front Brake Pads US Made 93-98 Eurovan $29.95 D750M
    Again, these parts don't seem priced too high. Don't forget to try non-VWOA parts sources.
  • zavfejzavfej Member Posts: 13
    I learned something - there are three different p/n for the '01 EV front pads. Mine end with "A" (which we assume means they come with an embedded wire that acts as an early warning for wear). This is the one that is on b/o nationally.
    The cost (via the dealer) is around $130 for the pair. Like I mentioned earlier, as soon as I learned this, I called VWoA and they started a case file, and this week rented me a car. Of course we can't camp in a Dodge Neon, but I felt that the company is trying to do th right thing since they did not support the vehicle. My 2 cents.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Volkswagen to build new Microbus in 2005

    Steve
    Host
    SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
  • ropedartropedart Member Posts: 163
    too early for a board on the microbus 2 years away?
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Actually we did have one but it faded away (discussions automatically archive after 6 weeks or so of inactivity). I thought about pulling it out of the archives, but it's probably still a bit early to sustain itself.

    Steve
    Host
    SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
  • traubejotraubejo Member Posts: 5
    New to the board and to Eurovan research. The premium fuel requirement on the 2001-2002 Eurovans would seem to make them somewhat expensive to use as a daily driver. Is premium required for 1999 and 2000 EVs too? Thanks.
  • wkb4447wkb4447 Member Posts: 14
    Well, I got feedback from my post in March, and I talked to a number of VW Camper and Eurovan owners as I evaluated the possibility of buying a well-maintained used camper. Conclusion: pass

    Interesting how people who like the van talk about it. They rave about how great it has been for their kids, short camping trips, etc. But, after what seems to be a weak attempt to convince themselves that they made a wise decision to purchase a VW camper/van, the confessions begin to roll forth. Yes, in fact, it has been in the shop a lot, and, yes, they know me down there by my first name, and, yes, it's gutless and a pain to drive, etc. Then, the kicker: "But, we love it!"

    I think owning a VW van is somewhat like a marriage for some people - they have so much invested in it that even though it's not ideal, what the heck.

    So, I've "broken my engagement" with the whole notion of owning (marrying?) one of these things. Still, where are you going to get a vehicle that doubles as a cool camper with a pop-top, a sink, fridge, a little stove....?

    Breaking up is hard to do.
  • mrnimmomrnimmo Member Posts: 271
    Consider another poptop camper?


    http://www.sportsmobile.com


    If you pass on all the RV stuff, these can be as economical as a eurovan. I once checked and confirmed it could be outfitted similar to a eurovan weekender. If you add furnaces, starcool ac, bathrooms, etc and you'd be better off buying a real RV.


    There are a few other campers out of canada also. One company converts fords and is called gtrv. Probably just www.gtrv.com. The other converts GM big vans and astros. http://www.parnado.com/ These too can be had in weekender configuration.


    Have fun.

  • wkb4447wkb4447 Member Posts: 14
    Cool site. Never heard of those guys. Very impressive. Maybe......
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    CNN story on the '05 Microbus. Hard to stay excited about something so far out in the pipeline.



    Steve

    Host

    SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
  • jcampa1jcampa1 Member Posts: 7
    I sympathize with your situation. I had to make a similar decision myself. I too, really liked the Eurovan with the weekender package. I just could not justify the cost overall. I read all the posts of how the repair costs were "relatively" high. As well as the reliability was not there. I'm sure that their are a host of people out there that will refute this but I decided to play it safe and go a slightly different route. I bought a 2002 Honda Oddessey van and I tow a 5X8 utility trailer to haul all of our "stuff". It works great and my wife and two children love our many one week camping trips. It is still like van camping, but we just sleep in a comfortable 12X14 canvas tent and bring all the amenities that we desire. Noone said that camping means that you HAVE to be uncomfortable. Power issued, no problem, got two Honda generators. Hot showers, no sweat, I got a "Laser Insta-hot" water heater. These camping trips are pretty inexpensive overall. The Honda gets 20 mpg and we have plenty of room. Sure I envy the guy with the "blue metalic weekender" parked a few sites away with the top in the open position. I'll just go and visit them and compliment them on their purchase.
  • jcampa1jcampa1 Member Posts: 7
    Well I am back from my three week vacation to Virginia, Washington, and New York. I put on well over 3,000 miles and the EX preformed flawlessly. I'm glad it did since it's new. I towed my 5x8 utility with all my camping gear. Here is the brake down: The combined weight was 7,400lbs. This was 525 people weight; approx. 400 van cargo; trailer and gear was 2480lbs. add the weight of the new weight distribution hitch from reese and I am just under the 3,500lbs limit. I cannot be any happier on how the Honda has preformed. But by far the most important, crucial, factor was the w/d hitch. The vehicle and trailer towed like it was one unit. when you "crank" on the lever and see the front end of the van get "pushed" down by the action of the hitch, you actually see the vehicle level out. "catam" was absolutely correct about using this type of hitch. "reese" just came out with this type made just for mini-vans. I drove at 60-62 mph on flat roads and got 21 mpg. on "road crowns" or small over-passes I would slow down to 50 or less. when I was going through the mountains, I just shifted to "D-3" and slowed to no higher than 45mph. My total average for the trip was 20-mpg. I know that if I drove at 55 the whole way, I would have gotten even better mileage. I had full control of the vehicle and never experienced a panic stop situation. In any event I maintained a longer than usual stopping distance between cars. I left all the rude drivers in Florida and did not get "cut-off" until I got back into the Miami area. I hate to perpetuate the myth about Florida drivers but from what I see, it more fact than anything else. When I got back, I did the "7,500" service. Changed the oil my self and had to buy Honda 5W-20 at the dealer. Mobil-1 is my preference but they won't have this viscosity until 2003. As far as the transmission temp. gauge that "peloqt" wanted to install. well I did that same thing on my 2000 and it kept on throwing a trans-code. Dealer threatened to void my trans-warranty. My gauge was an "Auto meter" mechanical type and was professionally installed. It was tapped through the oil cooler line and after consulting several engineers, it was determined that the flow of fluid was interrupted do to the in-line "tee" and was producing "bubbles" in the fluid as it passed through the lines which resulted in the trouble code. I over sized the line which was tapped and the problem went away. I strongly sugjest that if anyone was going to attempt this, it would be better to tap into the pan and avoid disturbing any fluid lines. In any event, this would have to be done at a professional shop and not just a rig. Anyway, can't be any happier about my Honda. Plan to go to the Grand Canyon next year. Ain't America Great!
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Sounds like pretty fancy van camping compared to my style! Thanks for the trip report.

    Steve
    Host
    SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
  • itchyahn1itchyahn1 Member Posts: 1
    Hello. What is the correct oil filter for the 2001 Eurovan. The #021115562A VR6 filter does not fit.

    Thanks
  • casey43casey43 Member Posts: 1
    In the market for a minivan. As a current owner of a '91 Passat Wagen and a few other previous VDubs, naturally I thought of the EuroVan. I am looking for a daily "family hauler" and am considering the Odessey EX with DVD and the EuroVan GLS. I love the sunroof heated seats of the EuroVan, but think the 2 side doors and the Honda practicality might be of major value. I could use a hand in the decision. Any help out there?
  • lok888lok888 Member Posts: 1,788
    When do we expect to this Micobus on the road?
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Good question - it's not even showing up on our Future Vehicles radar (meaning not within the next 18 months most likely).


    2005 was the last prediction for the roll-out year that I recall.


    Steve, Host

  • lok888lok888 Member Posts: 1,788
    I think I saw some articles about the Micobus as a concept van. I don't remember where I saw. The concept looks like those cars in the Jackson cartoon. I want to see if they can keep some of the original body style (like the front end with a big VW logo) from the old van into this Micobus. Pretty much the similar body style on Beetle and New Beetle.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    There's a link to a concept article in this message:

    boaz47 "Microbus in 2005" Jun 24, 2002 9:16am

    That discussion is frozen now, but may be of interest.

    From what little I've seen, I like it a lot!

    Steve, Host
  • ecornwallecornwall Member Posts: 5
    My 21 yr old son is interested in purchasing a 92 Vanagon or Eurovan. ANy ideas on what kind of gas mileage, repair costs, availability and price of spare parts, etc??? How about handling in the snow?? We live in Maine and would expect he would be putting on 20- 30K/ year on it. THe vehicle has 175K and is is "fair to average" shape for the year- meaning some rust. Maine is notorious for rust with VW's. Inspection sticker is good through July 03 so I assume that it should be safe to drive as is.
  • mrnimmomrnimmo Member Posts: 271
    I don't think there was a 92 VW Van in North America. 91 was the last year for the Vanagon. Those are very, very expensive to maintain. They have a preposterous head gasket design that fails regularly and a tricky FI system also. 93 was the first year for the Eurovan. Costs to maintain a Eurovan are fairly high also. Those had Audi 5 cyls in them and many of the peripherals are VW EV specific. There's just not many of them around.

    The Vanagon and EV are also drastically different vehicles. Vanagon is rear engine, rear wheel drive and the EV is front engine, FWD. The early busses are pretty good in the snow and even offroad. Vanagons are more evenly balanced front to rear, so they aren't as good in the snow. You'll need snow tires at least and probably chains also. I've never owned an EV so I have no idea.

    Parts for either are expensive and hard to find. You won't be buying much at your local car parts place.

    EPA said about 17-19MPG in a vanagon and that's about what I got. When people are selling these things, they often promise much better MPG (to offset the sluggish performance I suppose). I've heard it all and never seen a vanagon get(or known a reliable person to claim) 20MPG or better. EV will be about the same, I'm told.

    I have this deep-seated, irrational love for VW vans due to vacationing in them as a child. I've owned many and I'll probably own more. In my experience, they have all been very unreliable and very expensive to maintain. You will have to do alot of the work yourself unless you have tons of money. Many mechanics won't work on them or will charge you extra (especially the vanagon). I still love them, but they have abused me, each and every one.

    30,000 miles a year is a lot to ask out of one of these. Better to tinker with it all year and get it out for a camping trip or two in the summer. If it were a friend or relative of mine, I'd suggest an old Toyota or Previa if the goal is to get something that is funky/neuvohippy/ earthnuggety. Or perhaps a 1st gen Honda Odyssey/Isuzu Oasis or 4 cyl Dodge if the goal is MPG and snow ability.

    Because of the cult following of the VW van, none are cheap. You can often buy much better vans for less if you aren't wedded to VW.

    Look at the VW vans clubs at vanagon.com for more FAQ's regarding the vehicles. I think there is also a nice buying guide at www.busdepot.com that is aimed at camper buyers, but the chassis info is the same.

    Good luck.
  • clawson2clawson2 Member Posts: 1
    Hello. I am interested in buying a 1997 Eurovan at a dealer near my house. It has 35,000 miles on it and has the middle seat, refridgerator...the whole 9 yards. The dealership told me it would cost 26,000 but I am looking online on Edmunds and it says I should only expect to pay 13,000 for this vehicle.. I am trying to figure out if that 13,000 is without the refridgerator and everything else.
  • mrnimmomrnimmo Member Posts: 271
    In 1997 the ONLY Eurovan was the Winnebago Campmobile. The 13,000 price is for everything, even that refrigerator. The extra seat is an option, but it was only about $750 or so new. A new EV Camper is only about 35,000-37,000.

    Run away fast.
  • altairsf1altairsf1 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2001 Eurovan. It's about 15 months old and has 17,000 miles on it. It came with Dunlap tires, and the tread on all four tires is shot already. It seems to me that tires ought to last longer than that. Has anyone else had a similar problem. Also, has anyone had good luck with a particular brand and model of tires on the Eurovan. It looks like I will be shopping for new tires soon. Both VW and Dunlap pretty much told me to take a hike when I brought the issue to their attention.
  • mrnimmomrnimmo Member Posts: 271
    you must use a reinforced tire. This is because the VWs are tall, narrow, and capable of carrying a large load. Many are 1 tons. Your VW camper is heavy every single day. That is why VW specs the load indexes for the tires that it does. A reinforced tire also greatly helps with front end sway.


    Unfortunately, in USA there are very few available. The only appropriate replacement tire in 205/55/15C or Reinforced now available in the USA is the Michelin Agilis.


    http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake= Michelin&tireModel=Agilis&vehicleSearch=false&partnum=065TR5AGILIS


    Sorry, I cannot help with the Dunlop. I assume there is a manufacturers warranty? You rotated the tires, right?

  • lucienglucieng Member Posts: 1
    Just bought a 2003 Silver Weekender. Vehicle seems so vunerable with no mouldings or bumpers. Afraid to take it out of my garage.
    Any advice where I can buy some self adhesive type moulding made specifically for the Eurovan?
    Lou
  • mrnimmomrnimmo Member Posts: 271
    http://www.eurocampers.com/

    Lotsa other cool accessories at that site as well.
  • altairsf1altairsf1 Member Posts: 4
    I previously posted a message regarding tires on my 2001 Eurovan (not a camper) that wore out after only 17k miles. I called the 800 drive vw number for a recommendation regarding new tires. They informed me that when the 2001's rolled off the line there was a shortage of appropriate tires. Consequently they put a Dunlap performance tire on that was not well-suited to the vehicle (particularly for rain or snow). They also said that at the time of purchase there was an offer from VW whereby you could buy 4 additional tires for $150 with installation included when the tires became available(I think this applies to some 2002s as well). Unfortunately my dealer never told me about the offer, and is reluctant to offer the deal to me now. Ironically their customer service reps say they can offer the deal, but the dealer says he cannot. I am currently arguing the issue with both the dealer and with VW.
  • larawlaraw Member Posts: 1
    I am responding to messages 411 & 415. We had the same problem at only 12,000 miles! Same response from Dealer etc. so we ended up shelling out the cash ourselves. I am relieved to see that we are not alone. We are also currently dealing with completely incompetent mechanics at every dealership in our area! We have a squeaky window that took 7 visits to figure out, a brake caliper that wasn't even bolted back together after our 20,000 mile tune and consequently came apart, had one bolt sheered off and has damaged the whole brake system. NOW we found out that our shocks are totally blown at 26,000 miles. Does anyone else have the shock problem?
  • jax1rvgjax1rvg Member Posts: 1
    I have a silver 2001 Eurovan 26k miles. VW factory supplied Dunlops 225/60-16 already worn (worn evenly though). Too costly to replace $140 each. Searched a while but found a great Japanese made premium touring/hi performance replacement that matches originals speed rating and even exceeds it's load index. I had to move up one click in size (less than 2% diameter increase is ok) to 235/60-16 104H Reinforced "Nitto 460" . $83 each incl mount balance rotate etc. Discount Tire Jacksonville Florida. I bought five so as to include the spare in rotations. Looking for a matching silver BBS 5 spoke alloy wheel. These are much quieter, handle and stop great even in heavy rain and have deeper tread 12/32nds. Expecting much better service life for half the price.
  • dieselbreathdieselbreath Member Posts: 243
    We have a '94 Eurovan 7-passenger van (I think in the US they only had the campers by this time?) and a '92 Eurovan Transporter "Double-cab" Pickup truck. That's a 4-door, 5-seater truck with a 7' long flat-deck out back on the same wheel-base as the long-wheelbase vans. Its a true 1-ton truck.

    I had 3 bent rims in the first year of owning the truck (it came with the 205/65R15 Continentals).

    It didn't help that I had a contracting company installing underground power services to luxury houses on acreages that usually didn't get a proper road until after I was finished.

    I replaced the worn Continentals with Pirelli Scorpion truck tires LT215/75R15.

    They are MUCH taller, provide more clearance, more traction, and smoother ride at the cost of poor cornering.

    But they last. I drove from Canada to Mexico for vacation in '93, and have about 50,000 miles on the tires, but they need to be replaced.

    On the van, we also put truck tires LT215/75R15 but Yokohama's Geolander A/T tires (we have an acreage with a steep driveway 1/4 kilometer long that even my old Landcruiser struggled up in 4WD). These tires offered similar performance to the Pirellis, but with better handling in heavy rain.

    The problem is that they are noisy, and as they wore they got much noisier.

    I guess that's expected of an off-road tire.

    The benefit is that in a heavy snowfall a few years back, I had no problems on un-plowed roads that a Jeep TJ was struggling on. (The Jeep ended up following my tracks.)

    I'm sure it has to do with the weight of these vehicles combined with front-wheel drive and the tall, skinny, off-road tires. (wide tires are good for beaches and nothing else)

    We've put over 90,000 kilometers (about 60,000 miles) on the Geolanders now, and they're close to needing a replacement.

    One got wrecked by a nail through the sidewall, and that's when we discovered that Yokohama's road-hazard warrantee covers "P" tires (passenger), but not LT (light truck).

    The next tires will be Yokohama H/T in a P-series.

    http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Yokohama&tireModel=Geolandar+H%2FT+Y816

    The 215/75R15 C is a reinforced tire to meet the weight requirements, and its only US$67- each at Tirerack.com

    The Yokohama HT is the top-rated tire for trucks and vans on tirerack, and its one of the best priced tires in this size.

    After 27 years, a few dozen cars & trucks, and several dozen sets of tires I won't ride on anything but Bridgestone, Pirelli, Yokohama, or Michelin. The Michelins are out of my budget.

    For performance car tires Yokohamas will outlast anything else (even Michelin) under hard driving.

    NOTE that if you want to buy allow wheels for your Eurovan, they take Mercedes wheels.

    Benz also sells a passenger van in Europe that looks a lot like the Eurovan, and for a good reason ... they come from the same VW factory. (Benz installs their own engine).

    But they are mechanically identical, include the Benz bolt-pattern for the wheels.

    For best quality, look at Ronal wheels http://www.ronalusa.com/ (stock on VW & Audi, as well as Mercedes, Porsche, BMW, Saab, Lotus, ...) Good luck!
  • dieselbreathdieselbreath Member Posts: 243
    Check this site:

    http://www.ronalusa.com/cars/cars_html/vw_eurovan.html
  • jimbo64jimbo64 Member Posts: 1
    I am a new (2002) Eurovan owner -- the Weekender Camper package (no stove or sink). This is my first such vehicle and I was hoping someone could tell me if all the creaks and rattles I hear are typical of the Eurovan. The pop-up latch is particularly noisy (yes, in the locked position) and an intermittent creaking in my side door is intermittently driving me crazy. Other than that, the car drives beautifully. I just need some voices of experience. Thanks.
  • itchyahnitchyahn Member Posts: 2
    Hi.
    Has anyone else had the same problems with their New Euro?
    -coolent return hose mounted upside down so the cooling fan cuts a hole into the hose
    -stearing wheel rough on cold days
    -electric water pump leak
    -sliding door lock sticks when cold
    -can't get trans into reverse

    Thanks
    itchyahn@hotmail.com
  • itchyahnitchyahn Member Posts: 2
    Mine has the same noises. It's worse when it's cold!
  • garydoyle1garydoyle1 Member Posts: 8
    My MV Weekender's top creaks as well. And the lock to the sliding door freezes occasionally when cold.

    Does anybody have any solutions for this?

    I thought some WD-40 on the locking mechanism of the camper top might help. Let me know. Thanks.
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