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Volkswagen EuroVan

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  • peaceluvpoptoppeaceluvpoptop Member Posts: 2
    The eurovans are pretty expensive. Mine is a 2002 and we paid around 19k for it. The 2002 and 2003s have a little more horse power so it helps move the beast around better. When we got it, she had just put a new tranny in it and it had around 125k miles on it.
  • camper7camper7 Member Posts: 1
    I owned a 1976 VW Canper and had to be towed 5 times due to the same type of condition. On several ocasions the engine began to sputter and after pulling over and sitting for a time it would be fine and have no problem for months. The VW service folks were never able to discover what the cause was and the car was still under warrenty at the time. They thought it had to do with the fuel pump or electronics related to the fuel pump. Not in my area of expertise.
  • 97evc97evc Member Posts: 2
    It appears that my intermittent problem may also be related to the ignition switch. When the dashboard ABS warning light fails to go out after the engine is started, the wipers and the heater/AC fan will not work. After switching the engine off and back on a few times, the ABS light goes out as it normally should and everything works.

    It looks like others here have experienced similar problems. Before I order a new ignition switch, can anyone help me feel more certain that this, in fact, the problem?

    Thanks.
  • ereslereresler Member Posts: 3
    Those are the same symptoms my '99 Eurovan had. I had the VW dealer replace the electrical switch on the bottom of the ignition switch/lock. I have since driven from California to Canada and back with no problems.
  • StillVeeDubberStillVeeDubber Member Posts: 15
    You have no choice in the Tires.....the Van's weight requires a 102. I rode around with 98s and they wore out in strange ways. It took me 4 years to figure that out....when Michelin stopped making the tires I needed. I started with Pep Boys and they wore out. They swore by their tires, but when an alignment shop showed me the wear on one that took 8oz to balance it... I went to VW and was told to go to NOKIAN tires. I've no regrets. I have the Commercial grade van tires on it and they're supposed to last 50k.

    Brake jobs on the Euro (I have an '02) are easy. You need a 6" - 8" C clamp to compress the brake piston and a large channel-lock to turn it so that it'll compress.

    The front door lock on mine broke and it was about that to fix it. I paid about $1k for the alternator after 165k miles. The only major part to break on mine.
  • orbit9090orbit9090 Member Posts: 116
    The new Volkswagen California boots out all those things that make camping a crime. The tent traumas, the soggy clothes, the sleeping on rocky ground. All history. What you get instead is a simple, convenient and comfortable solution to outdoor living...

    image

    It's called the Volkswagen California, but you can't get it there.
  • salam1salam1 Member Posts: 1
    I had the transmission and the engine rebuilt at the same time, after installation, the car heats up after 15 minutes of driving, changed water pump, changed thermostat, checked radiator, everything is fine still heats up on local streets, stays on 190 on highway. the fan still goes crazy after 15 minutes highway or not.
    My mechanic gave up and now disconnected the thermostat, he wants to see what happens.
    Anybody could solve this mystery for me please.
    Salam
  • millerw2k2010millerw2k2010 Member Posts: 1
    Are you interested in owning a motor home,you may be pleased to know that motor homes,

    motorhomecaravan.com
  • weekender3weekender3 Member Posts: 15
    I'm driving Michelin Primacy MXV4 98 load tires on my MV Weekender with no problems. If you check the load ratings you are 11 pounds under the maximum load of the front axle per wheel so total 22 pounds on the axle. I have no issues with these tires, no excessive wear nor uneven wear. I pump them to the max of the rated pressure of 3 bar or 44 lbs/ square inch. I have to admit that I mainly drive the van not at the max loading capacity. Even though, the front axle is close to the max, as all the weight is already in the front (Driver and front passenger, engine, gas tank).
    A good tire is the Continental Vancocontact 4Season, but I'm not sure if you can find the dimension here in Northamerica. Most Eurovans in Europe have this tire. I have Nokian Wintertires with 102 rating, not the best winter tire but it works. Widely available seams the Nokian as an all season in 102s.
    I had to replace my lower ball joints, I don't remember the exact price but I assume it was around 500$ not at a dealership. Avoid dealerships they are a rip off! Try to find a mechanic that is specialized in VW. I have made way better experiences with them than any dealership (service and price).
    Careful with the brakes! The front can be replaced easily. Use a reset tool from a parts store (20$) careful with clamps! You can press the piston in croucket and that can damage the seals and the piston (it works but be warned) . The rear is more delicate as you need the right tool to do the job as the rear calliper pistons need to be turned when pushed back, if you fail to do this you can compromise the reset function of the piston $$!
    Sorry with the locks, I replaced my rear hatch lock cylinder, it cosed 130$, 30$ for the lock and a 100$ for the install at a dealership. Don't have issues with the locks in the front. Don't use them as the van has central locking. Had to replace the actuator though, got the part from europarts-sd.com ( very good source for Eurovan parts) for 100$ and replaced it my self. Easy task actually.
    Good luck!
  • StillVeeDubberStillVeeDubber Member Posts: 15
    I drive on Nokian C tires(Commercial van tires)...supposed to be good for 50k miles. The rear brakes on my 2002 Euro were much easier than the front. All you need for rear is an 6" - 8" C-clamp. I've also used it on the front. The front requires a Hex wrench as well. I don't drive near the weight limit, as I'm alone in it with few if any people in it in a given month. I avoid Dealerships like the plague.
  • willgowillgo Member Posts: 3
    I am surprised at how quickly the front brake pads are wearing out as can be seen by all the "black stuff" on the front wheel covers. Are the front calipers on the 2000 Gurling or Bendix? I am sure to be buying and installing replacements soon.

    Also, the EVC manual addresses 'Winterizing" the gray water tank using non-toxic glycol. Is simply pumping the fresh-water holding tank until empty take care of the holding tank?

    Also, concerning camping during the winter, if we maintain about 45 degrees in the coach using the furnace, can I assume that the fresh-water and holding tanks will not freeze?

    Thanks to all who post on this imformative forum.
  • keybankerkeybanker Member Posts: 20
    The grey water tank should be drained after each trip but no other special winterizing of it is necessary. We have camped in 22 degree temperatures with no freezing of the tanks. I don't know about the brakes.
  • vinnievangovinnievango Member Posts: 2
    We too have a badly cracked '95 Eurovan Camper top. We wondered what you ended up doing about yours.
  • vinnievangovinnievango Member Posts: 2
    We too have a badly cracked '95 Eurovan camper top & wondered what you ended up doing about yours.
  • bob307bob307 Member Posts: 5
    Mostly the large crack does not appear to be structural. So I took a tube of white silicon calking and shot it all over the crack. It has sealed the large crack and I have not been all that worried about it since. I casually call around junk yards now and then. There is a replacement part for $3500 plus shipping from Wisconsin or someplace. I can’t bring myself to spend the $4000 to fix it on a 15 year old van.

    RPM
  • keybankerkeybanker Member Posts: 20
    Silicon caulking will NOT hold up to the flexing caused by temperature changes, wind and opening and closing the top. The top will leak when it rains. The only way to fix your roof properly is to take the vehicle to an auto body shop or boat repair shop that has experience with fiberglass repair. They will sand the areas of the top where there are cracks and apply fiberglass cloth and resin that is compatible with the pop top. After it dries it can be sanded and painted so it will look like new.
  • escapaderescapader Member Posts: 1
    The same thing happened to My Eurovam the 1st of this year. My Insurance company told me it would be a Winnebago part but I don't beleive they have the tops for the older campers. (ie 92 thru 95). I also have been informed that it is just a cap on the pop top. I have broght mine to the body shop that I use for other projects and he tells me that he can repair it, but my dilema is how to remove the plastic cap from the rest of the pop top. Do you or anyone else know of any schenmatic explaining this process.
  • keybankerkeybanker Member Posts: 20
    It can be repaired without being removed.
  • surfrat00surfrat00 Member Posts: 5
    My 2003 Eurovan is completely dead. All electronics are non-functional...lights, instruments including the clock, radio, even the remote key won't work. The van won't start and makes no noise at all when trying. I cleaned the battery terminals and checked the fuses under the dash associated with engine electronics, and checked the three fuses in the fuse compartment directly in front of the battery. The battery tested at around 9V with my voltmeter. The van operated fine yesterday, and has given no indication that the battery might be weak. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • keybankerkeybanker Member Posts: 20
    Have you checked the battery? Is you model a camper? If so, I have a suggestion to make.
  • fbrawsr0fbrawsr0 Member Posts: 16
    Buy a scanner, its a diagnostic tool, cost about $80. A must have for VW owners. I have a 2003 Eurovan too. Most repair shops will charge you about $60 to tell you what the problem is? A scanner will display a code that refers to the problem.
  • surfrat00surfrat00 Member Posts: 5
    No, it's not a camper. I am pulling the battery today and taking it to be checked. I tested it with my voltmeter, and it was reading 9V with no load...should have been enough to keep the digital clock going (?). But all electronics are totally dead.
  • surfrat00surfrat00 Member Posts: 5
    Any suggestions on which scanner is best? Also, would the scanner include a list of codes applicable to the Eurovan? Is this scanner one that would be used for "Check Engine Light" problems? I just returned from a short road trip the day before and no warning lights were illuminated.
  • keybankerkeybanker Member Posts: 20
    I don't think 9v is sufficient to keep any of the electronics functioning. I also had dead battery problems with my Eurovan camper even after installing a brand new battery. I was told the radio and other engine computer stuff draws current even when the car sits. So I bought a little trickle charger and no more dead batteries. It is a Schauer Charge Master, model# CM1A. Good lick!
  • surfrat00surfrat00 Member Posts: 5
    The battery is dead...you're right, 9V isn't enough to keep the electronics functioning. Thank you for the advice on the charger...gonna go get one.
  • keybankerkeybanker Member Posts: 20
    Thanks for getting back to me. That will be an easy fix. You will need to take the battery out of the vehicle and get it recharged at a shop. A trickle charger cannot recharge a dead battery. It is designed to maintain a fully charged battery. I researched trickle chargers made by a variety of manufacturers and the Schauer was the one most highly recommended by users. It will not over-charge your battery and it has three lights that tell you what it is doing when it is connected to your battery. I really like mine and you can buy the Schauer Model CM1A now on Amazon for $26.95.
  • surfrat00surfrat00 Member Posts: 5
    The battery was under warranty (just barely, by one month!), and my VW dealer swapped it our for a new one free of charge. I'm still going to get the charger you recommended to prevent this battery from suffering the same fate. Thank you for your help and the advice on the charger purchase!
  • willgowillgo Member Posts: 3
    Our 2000 Eurovan has 60,000, purchased a few months ago when it had 55,000 miles. I use Premium fuel and have added a bottle of Textron. The problem is that at highway speeds (55+ mph) I can hear pre-ignition knock anytime I press on the gas to speed up. While maintaining 60 mph, when going up any kind of hill (Indiana = hardly any at all!) I get pre-ignition knock. Once at the crest of the grade, and going downhill, the knock disappears. Driving on the flat, against the wind, at 65 mph, makes for constant chatter.

    It seems the knock sensors aren't picking up the knock? I located the rear knock sensor tonight but haven't found the front one yet. They cost about $60 each. Do I have TWO sensors bad?

    One guy suggested my catalytic converter was almost plugged. There are no CEL codes.

    Any suggestions, please? Thanks!
    bill
  • smilemaker157smilemaker157 Member Posts: 1
    Stan,
    I have a 2002 EVC with the double, center seat. I never use it. Like yours, it sits in the basement. Can you send me photos of how the single seat attaches ? Mine has 4 large, removable screws that the seat rolls over to attach. The seat is heavy. I would like to know if the same screws are used for the single seat. If I ever find a single seat, I would like to get one....assuming it would fit on the existing screws that are there now. The spacing may be different, that is what I need to know. Thanks for your time.
    John
    cell--- 404-518-9780
    smilemaker157@bellsouth.net
  • StillVeeDubberStillVeeDubber Member Posts: 15
    This is a failing Ignition switch. It happened to me this year. The part is $25 and the labor is rated at a little over an hour, but the actual labor could be more. Mine entailed over a day, but the garage charged me what the it was rated at. They said the switch normally goes out at about 80k miles. I had mine in for 190k.
  • 2bfalcon2bfalcon Member Posts: 2
    I can't figure this out... When I start my '93 Eurovan in the morning it runs great for the first 5 to 10 minutes and then once it is warm it runs as if it has bad gas with water in it. If I hold my foot in a constant position on the pedal it will sputter and slow down and then take off for a few seconds like nothing is wrong and then bog down, etc., etc. Sometimes I need to floor it just to get it going and that works momentarily until it bogs down again. Oxygen sensor? Cracked vacuum hose? Any ideas. To repeat, once it cools down again (3-4 hours) it will run as if nothing is wrong until it warms up. Ugh!... Thanks, Bill
  • bbaskettbbaskett Member Posts: 1
    Hi Bill,

    There are a couple of things you should check. Firstly, Check all Vacuum hoses, they tend to crack on older Eurovans and you could be getting "false air" in your fuel/air system.

    Secondly, VW Techs say that Eurovan throttle bodies get really filthy. I would take the throttle body off (easily removed) and thoroughly clean it with carb cleaner and hereafter put a can of Berryman's B12 Chem tool in your tank every 3 months or so, not only will it remove moisture from your tank, but it will clean your throttle body and fuel injectors.

    Bryan
  • jj76campersjj76campers Member Posts: 1
    I need help. My 1995 eurovan also has 3 or 4 cracks in the top too. I took it to a fiberglass repair place and they said because it it plastic they cannot repair it. Do any who has had success repair it can you let me know who you used and maybe I can get some info about the product to use. I would also consider buying a replacement top if anyone has had any luck locating a supplier.

    Thanks,
  • keybankerkeybanker Member Posts: 20
    Yes, it is plastic but it can be properly repaired by an auto body or boat repair shop.
  • bob307bob307 Member Posts: 5
    Maybe you can get someone to repair it. you will mostly find that is expensive, no one will want to do it, and no one will guarantee the work… so why would you put that money and effort into a 15+ year old top. You know it will just crack and break in the near future.

    After much consideration, we ended up ordering a new top. http://www.mobilityrv.com/ I think it ran us about $3,500 with shipping. Worked great and fitted just like the old one. I think they only built one of those tops for all of those years. I was worried it would be the wrong top or just off by a little bit… but it was dead on. Took me a day to move all of the hardware over.

    We have had the replacement top for a couple years now and no complaints.

    Good luck,
    RPM
  • willgowillgo Member Posts: 3
    I once found an ad to sell a used one for $1800. But I like the idea to just pay the money to get a new one. That is what I would do. I wonder if they use a new poptop vent -- I understood that Atwood stopped making the top Eurovan vent . .

    If you don't need you old poptop vent I'd like to get it from you.
    Bill
  • fender3fender3 Member Posts: 1
    I have had two alternators burn out within a year. There appears to be something pulling excessive amounts of current. Any ideas?
  • azravenazraven Member Posts: 5
    Hi,

    I just fixed a poptop on a '95 Eurovan. The largest crack spanned 3/4 of the top.

    Most cracks are repairable, with a little patience and some very common, inexpensive tools.

    I welded it. There is some mis-information out there on the material the top is made from. It is not PVC or a fiberglass ( neither epoxy or polyester). the outer shell is ASA ( Acrylonitrile-Stryene-Acrylate) and the head liner is ABS (Acrylonitrile-Butadiene-Styrene).

    I posted a website with step-by step instructions. It has lots of pictures.

    Good Luck!

    http://tahosa.us/Eurovan/index.html
  • azravenazraven Member Posts: 5
    edited July 2013
    Hi,

    I just repaired some very large and very small cracks in the top of a '95 Eurovan. I used only simple, inexpensive tools.

    The outer shell is made from ASA (Acrylonitrile-Styrene-Acrylate) plastic. It is not made of PVC!

    The outer shell can be welded by heat and solvent. 30 feet of ASA welding rod cost about $28 US.

    Details, with lots of photos of my adventure are posted

    http://tahosa.us/Eurovan/Eurovan/index.html

    Good Luck! If I can do this, anybody can!
  • azravenazraven Member Posts: 5
    edited July 2013
    Sorry, I posted a broken link....

    http://tahosa.us/Eurovan/Eurovan/index.html
  • azravenazraven Member Posts: 5
    Sorry, I posted a broken link,

    http://tahosa.us/Eurovan/Eurovan/index.html
  • azravenazraven Member Posts: 5
    For instructions, with lots of photos, on how to repair large and small cracks in Eurovan roofs...

    http://tahosa.us/Eurovan/Eurovan/index.html

    It can be done with simple, inexpensive tools and a little patience.
  • mcrenzymcrenzy Member Posts: 1
    Hello friend! I am searching for answers for the same problem you posted. Were you ever able to figure out the too cold to go into gear problem. I also have an 03 Eurovan. I live in Jackson WY so we have plenty of cold mornings. Any input would be much appreciated. Thanks so much!!!
    Renzy
  • StillVeeDubberStillVeeDubber Member Posts: 15
    I found by way of the Mechanic, that the box where the Shifter is, filled up with liquid we had spilled earlier in the trip we did that Winter. The Tea froze and locked up the shifting. The mechanic removed the shifter which didn't seem to difficult and stuck rags in to soak up the moisture. After that, it was fine. There's nothing but a tiny bit of nothing in that box. It's hooked to cables leading out.
  • concatriousconcatrious Member Posts: 1
    Ive been having a similar problem where my 2002 vw eurovan wont start heres the fault codes does anyone know how i might go about fixing it

    Monday,24,October,2016,15:34:59:30667
    VCDS Version: Release 16.8.3 (x64) Running on Windows 10 x64
    www.Ross-Tech.com

    Address 01: Engine Labels: 022-906-032-AXK.lbl
    Control Module Part Number: 022 906 032 AF
    Component and/or Version: MOTRONIC ME7.1 G 0003
    Software Coding: 00013
    Work Shop Code: WSC 02744
    VCID: 4FA76F048DAAE73A75-5124
    Fault Codes have been Erased

    2 Faults Found:
    16730 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G163)
    P0346 - 35-00 - Implausible Signal
    18032 - MIL Request Signal Active (Check TCM for errors too!)
    P1624 - 35-00 -

    Readiness: 0110 1101
  • ChandlerChandler Member Posts: 1
    how do I remove the cooler seat in 02 mv weekender?
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