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Chevy Venture

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  • jeberjeber Posts: 91
    I think that's what its referred to as--silent recall or silent warranty

    Nissan replaced the v-6 in my pfinder a couple years back, a certain "run" of the blocks were bored slightly wrong, causing piston slap...I was skeptical when I first heard of it, but it definitely had the problem (noise on cold start) and they replaced it, no charge. I'll tell you what, that sort of thing will create long-term benefits for an auto manufacturer far exceeding the costs they incur for the repair

    I did a lot of research into the gm vans before getting mine, and unfortunately I've never seen info on gm taking care of the intake gasket leak on the 3.4, even though it seems obvious that they SHOULD--as with my nissan example, if gm refuses to take care of a problem that is obviously a defective part (not normal wear & tear), then its gonna hurt 'em much more in the long run--I mean, if mine starts leaking, and gm does zilch for me, then gosh, even though I like my silo, my next vehicle will probably be a nissan or toyota
  • "Secret Warranties" are easy for GM owners. GM mails a copy of the to the registered owners when ever they come out with a special policy that includes extended warranty coverage of a part or system.

    And don't worry, your extended service plan (from whoever you purchased it) will cover intake manifold gaskets even in the most basic powertrain versions.
  • Did you have to anything special on your brake job because of the antilock system? I have not done any brakework on ABS cars for fear I'd mess something up.
  • Nothing special to putting pads and rotors on. Just as simple as doing a GM car from the 70' and 80's. They improved it as the holding bolts are protected from the elements by rubber boots and there are stainles steel clips for the pads to slide in and they also act as anti-rattle devices. You get new ones in the premium pads I got from NAPA but original were as good as new. Just make sure you get a big "C" clamp and using an old pad push back the piston all the way so you have enough clearance for the new pads and some "freeplay " for putting the bolts in.

    If you change the rotors (which just fall off easily) you have to take off the cast iron mounting bracket for the caliper....it has treadlock on the threads so it comes of like you are stripping the threads..some factory guy put more on some of the bolts 'cause I had to back in and out and on one and use some WD-40 to help them get out. 15 mm socket does the bolts.

    Wash everything with Brake Cleaner so no traces of grease or dirt remain ...and use some new thread sealant if you change the rotors. The caliper bolts didn't have any on them. If you have added any brake fluid to your reservior as the brakes wore ..it will now be overfilled due to the pistons being back where they used to be when new pads are installed..no problema!
  • I might try it myself next time.
  • cptpltcptplt Posts: 1,075
    how come there is no mention of ever changing this in the service manual???
    whatever happened to the ?old idea about water getting into the system and the brake fluid needing to be changed periodically??? VW still makes you do it every 2 years!
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 10,890
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  • Recently purchased a '99 Venture LS Extended with 37K mi. Feel pretty good about the deal I got, although I've heard bad stuff about the reliability. Especially the intake gasket problem.
    Everything seems to be working great except for the rear heat. I discovered this when I went to replace the anti-freeze (I've heard that 5 years/150,000 mi Dex-Cool is not all it's cracked up to be so I thought I'd flush and fill with fresh Dex-Cool). I've read the manual and believe I have the knobs set right. The hoses going to the rear heater core are cold even when the front heat is working fine. Anyone have this problem? If so, what was the cause? I haven't had time to finish the anti-freeze replacement since I discovered this problem. I plan in taking the van on a 3K mi trip soon and would like to figure this out before then.
    Any help is appreciated.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 40,826
    Check out message 615.

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  • Steve,

    Thanks! Took a look at #615. Does anyone know what the TSB says that xcusme2 is referring to? The front heat seems nice and toasty. There is absolutely NO rear heat (the hoses and tubes are COLD). Sounds like the flow restrictor is for the front heater core. Also wonder what the thermostat change was (possibly a hotter one).

    Does anyone know if the rear heater controls operate a valve that is only for the rear core? Maybe this is not working. It's not obvious from looking at the hoses in the engine compartment.

    I figure once I get SOME warmth, I can insulate the tubes going under the floor so that they don't lose as much heat. I just can't seem to get anything remotely warm back there.

    OK, I'll stop babbling.
  • I looked in my manual for my 02 Silhouette and it doesn't show any water valves for the rear or the front heaters. A very poor drawing shows that they use two "T"s to get the water to the back heater.

    The "T"'s are located by the firewall. The water goes from the engine to the "T" where it is split off to go to both the front and rear heaters.

    Maybe the inlet "T" is clogged/restricted and not allowing any hot water to go to the back heater.

    The manual only shows air control doors for the front and the back heaters to control the temp of the air. Didn't find any water valves.

    As far as insulating the rear heater pipes, my 02 has been driven in 15 degrees weather and the rear heat has been hot. Not sure if that will change with age of the van.

    Let me know if I can look up any thing else for you. Good luck.
  • my o2 with 22,500 miles was in the service department today for a broken ac compressor and a chain-type rattling. finally after 3 attempts, the rattling was diagnosed as loose brake pad clips of some kind??? so they want to replace the shoes, but not turn the rotors. is that ok to do? i mean i'll take the new brakes but i don't want the rotors to wear them wrong. i've also had the transmission slip while coming upon a red light, coasting about 5-7 mph, then it turns green so i step on it. the transmission seems to slip between second going to first gear, trying to decide which it wants. a couple of times it has chirped the tires. it doesn't seem normal but i can't duplicate it when a tech rides with me. so they are trying to "explain" it away as if it's ok for the transmission to do that. anyone else have this happen? thanks.
  • I would say that is fine. Turning the rotors when they don't need it only shortens their life.
    Some minor scoring of the rotors will not hurt anything, I've been told.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 40,826
    I think minor scoring may just result in increased brake noise while the pads get broken in to the rotor. There's less chance of break-in noise when you have new pads and new (or newly turned) rotors since the corresponding surfaces are relatively flat and ridge free.

    I've also read that the reason many shops automatically turn or even install new rotors is because they get so many return visits from customers complaining of the break-in noise if they don't.

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  • infinia1infinia1 Posts: 174
    if anyone remembers my 02 venture, 22,500 miles now...i had transmission concerns that i asked about a while back. well guess what???!!! yep, it blew while the wife was picking up the kids from school! i knew something wasn't right. in the previous posts, i had said that it was slipping sometimes. but of course the dealer couldn't duplicate anything. the now fired service manager even tried to tell me my description was normal, that it was designed into the trans to protect it! whatever...i am vindicated! this makes me very angry. i have 3 kids and there's no way 3 car seats are going to fit into any neon or focus rental! thank goodness the dealer pushed chevrolet for a larger car since they only wanted to pay $30 per day for neon or focus, not $45 per day for another venture, a trailblazer, or an impala. and it was in last week for 4 days for the ac compressor and brakes?! that time the manager gave us his personal malibu. this is very dissapointing. considering the family has a malibu, a tracker, a prizm, a monte carlo, and a lumina...all with my persuasion and all good cars, i will be asking chevrolet for some compensation. there have been many other repairs in the last 7000 miles. these dealer trips are becoming real headaches.
  • just4fun2just4fun2 Posts: 461
    I would run very fast away from that dealership. The van is not the problem, the dealership is. Some dealers just don't care and it sounds like this is the case.

    Now call GM headquarters and tell them your story and that you are not satisfied with this dealer causing you and your family such problems.
    Maybe, an adjustment would have saved this transmission and GM would not have to pay for a new one.

    Again, I would find a different dealer to service my van.
  • lennxlennx Posts: 73
    Found water dripping from the visor a few weeks ago on our 2002 Venture.

    Dealer seemed familiar with this type of problem. Removed the windshield and the liner, sealed some joints and installed a new windshield.

    Leak is gone.

    Key with any problem is having a service dept that listens and understands the problem rather than blow you off. I tried the Chevy dealer we bought the van from and one closer to home and was not satisfied with either one. Now I go to a Pontiac dealer that has a great service dept.

    Average around 23 mpg mixed driving. Get 25 to 27 on the highway.
  • cptpltcptplt Posts: 1,075
    anyone know what torque the lug nuts on a Venture should be at?? (and for a Windstar too??)
  • baveuxbaveux Posts: 175
    venture = 100 f.p dont know for the ford
  • Veedubguy,

    I check into the forum about this time every year to see if others are having the same problem. I don't recall the number of the TSB regarding the 'Low Heat' for the sister vans for years '97 thru ??? to include other models as well.

    It seems hard to believe that I STILL have the problem.....lack of heat from both the front AND rear heater cores. I could write a book about what I think the problem is. For the last few months , I've been planning on finally getting to the bottom of the problem. I truly suspect that it's not just one thing. It's a design problem.

    The last time I addressed the issue was last fall. I worked very closely with the dealer and GM. I had stopped at a local dealer and looked at the latest models of the Venture that the dealer had delivered from Canada. I noticed that ALL of them had an auxiliary circulating coolant pump installed in the heater lines. There was a TBS regarding this add-on pump for those vehicles that had problems with low heater performance at low idle RPM's. The add-on pump is controlled by a remote thermistor mounted in front of the radiator. It is the switch that supplies voltage to the Aux. pump at temps below 32 F. I bitc*ed loud enough and GM agreed to install it gratis. It did seem to help, but did not fully solve the problem.

    As for you're problem, I agree with Just4fun2. I would start by inspecting the first 'Tee" after the heater core supply line leaves the block. The first TSB addressed this first 'Tee". The instructions were to remove the supply hose and to 'ream out the flow restrictor' from the front heater side of the 'Tee". This will improve flow to the front heater core, but will reduce flow to the rear core. Next I would check the 'Tee' FROM the rear heater core, back into the block. Removing both the supply side and return side of the rear core and doing a flow test with a garden hose ( and barb fitting) will verify that there's no blockages further back in the underbody lines or rear core. Pay attention to the bleeding of the cooling system to eliminate air from the cooling lines and block as well. Check and/or replace you're radiator cap while you're at it.

    I have researched many web sites regarding the Dex-Cool issue, and gelling of the coolant if there is any air intrusion into the cooling system. Perhaps you have this kind of blockage.

    I'm planning on putting up a web site detailing the fix for others who have this problem. I'll dig up the printed TSB's I have collected regarding this issue and post those as well. I surely can't be the only person with this problem. When it gets below zero, this van is no joy to drive and sadly, GM and it's dealers I've spoken to , don't have the answer beyond a band-aid type solution. The simple fact that GM had to design the aux. coolant pump to address this issue proves that there is a problem.
  • I purchased a Chevy Venture 2003 in July. The van had about 1500 miles on it when I took a summer trip with my family that added another 2000 miles to the vehicle. During this time I noticed that the oil pressure dropped steadily, day by day. Initially readings were in the high 70's, now in the mid 30's. No loss of oil is apparent, crankcase shows full, and I had an oil change after the trip and pressure continued to drop. Has anyone dealt with a similar situation?
  • jpc47jpc47 Posts: 62
    You didn't mention the year of your venture. I have a '98 and that doesn't have a gauge. Sometimes I think it's better not having a gauge. In any event, I beleive engines can handle (mid-thirties)low oil pressure.
  • just4fun2just4fun2 Posts: 461
    My Silhouette 02 doesn't have an oil pressure gauge so I don't know what the pressure is either. I would suspect that the gauge is faulty.
  • The Venture is a 2003. The oil gauge is a choice on the electronic odometer, I can go from the main reading of total miles on the vehicle to 2 different trip readings to oil pressure. Thanks for the responses, it is something that I will be keeping a close eye on.
  • just4fun2just4fun2 Posts: 461
    Wait a minute. I think that you are describing the oil life monitor (not oil pressure) that tells you what percentage of oil life is left, not the oil pressure. When the oil is changed it is reset at 100% oil life and the numbers will go down as the van is driven until the change oil soon is displayed. The change oil soon will be displayed on the system monitor to the left (it shows a picture of you battery ) when you first start the van.

    Check your owners manual.
  • Good catch just4fun2.
  • We have a new Venture and experience a howling noise from the front of the vehicle on open roads and windy conditions. First I thought it was the bug deflector - but we still get it after I took it off. After some investigating, I think it's the air intake shroud for the heater fan. It lays against the windshield very loosely and is a pretty flimsy piece of plastic.

    Anyone else experience this?

    I'm going to use some adhesive to secure this shroud better and see if it helps...
  • bcd99bcd99 Posts: 45
    There have been many talks about wind noise in the GM mini discussions. From the noise around the mirrors to the rattle by the intake to the air filter. Post #215 of 926 in the Olds Silo discussion covers this cowl on the windshield area.
  • May be the luggage rack. You might try moving the crossbars to a different point, and make sure they're tight. I had crossbar noise on my Venture and it took me months to locate the problem.
  • I have the same problem identified in post #390...

    99 Venture with 75k. Was involved in front/driver wreck at 58k and repaired. The driver/front wheel bearing was replaced about 3k ago, which was related to wreck. Also replaced the shocks/struts/tires at same time.

    We now have a popping/thumping noise from driver/front wheel. It only occurs with a sharp turn to right and slow speed. It happens while backing out of our driveway into the alley. There is an incline, but not much. I can't reproduce it with the front wheels off the ground. Ball joints/tie rods are all good.

    Any ideas? I think something may just be loose, but I have no idea what...

    Thanks in advance
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