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Chevy Venture

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Comments

  • mmanismmanis Member Posts: 1
    With all the great deals I'd like to buy a new venture but can't seem to find 1 I want with traction control. How important is traction control. I live in NY.

    Thanks
  • tony17112acsttony17112acst Member Posts: 35
    I DO have the auto load-leveling and traction control, hitch and wire harness. And yes, I want to add the items to my 98 Venture to allow it to tow the 3500 pounds which means I'd need all components of the "towing pakage."

    Unfortunately I can't get a definitive answer on what makes up the towing package for that year (1998).

    I don't know what else I can do besides calling the dealer. But I get a different answer from each dealer ...which proves they don't really know the true answer.

    Boy am I frustrated.
  • lct1lct1 Member Posts: 21
    Sounds like you are well on you way. The trans cooler will be located by the rad or trans. Look to see if you have one, if not one can be added easily. Check hitch to see if it is proper weight class for your needs. If you take your vin # to parts dept. you should be able to find out which rad and alt you have. Larger rad and alt. would be helpfull especially the rad. If you don't have trans cooler, have one added. With that you should be ready to go. If van came with factory wiring harness hookup, I would think it has the additions the towing pkg had for that yr. Hope that helps, Len
  • tony17112acsttony17112acst Member Posts: 35
    Actually, the hitch and wiring harness were after-market items.

    Well, today I had a long-awaited call returned from a dealer that has a good repuation. It took 6 days for them to call me back and they're answer was "We have no information on the components of the 1998 Venture towing package."

    Whatta joke. Isn't the dealer the final authority on this stuff? Even when I called the Chevrolet Company itself, they said the dealer is the one with this info.

    Any other advise on where I could find the answer?

    Thanks everyone.
  • crackcheckercrackchecker Member Posts: 32
    I don't know why your so worried about what the dealer would put on your van to tow!

    I sell hitches and it sounds like you have enough information to be dangerous (to yourself).

    The answer to your question depends upon the terrain you drive, the load you are going to pull, and how often you are pulling it and duration.

    Going all aftermarket I would go with everything you have mentioned. Put the hitch, wiring harness on your van and see how it does. I would then go with the trans cooler and a thermostat that opened just a little sooner than stock. I would then push you into getting a pusher fan on the front of the stock rad. As for the load, I would go ahead and get a set of load leveler air baffles.
  • tony17112acsttony17112acst Member Posts: 35
    The reason I need to know is if the van needs a, b, c, d, and e to tow 3500 pounds, and then I install a, b, c, and d AND NOT e, then I can fry the motor or the transmission, right?

    I want to know to not ruin my van towing 3200-3500 pounds.

    Please note that I already have the load-levelers, hitch, and harness.

    Thanks!
  • tony17112acsttony17112acst Member Posts: 35
    Mmanis:

    I have Traction Contral and it is INVALUABLE in the winter, here in PA. When you pull out from a stop, the whells will not slip. Some folks get stuck going up slight hills in icy weather but TC will not.

    Also, pulling out into heavy traffic with snow or ice will be much much safer.

    The funny thing is that I never gave TC a thought before it came as a bonus on my Venture. Now I will never buy another vehicle without it. Its use comes up more than I ever thought.

    I can only assume that wintery condition in NY for you is even more of a reason to insist on having it.

    Don't settle for somethign without it if you have a choice!
  • offhamoffham Member Posts: 344
    Has anbody replaced the Venture rear shocks with the self leveling device. After 80000 miles mine are leaking fluid.

    Similarly on front struts any info would useful.

    Thanks
  • vanman1vanman1 Member Posts: 1,397
    I agree. Our Intrigue had it and I love TC now. When we bought our Montana I insisted on getting one with the option. It's not a lot of money and it's worth every dime IMO.
  • offhamoffham Member Posts: 344
    Re my above message, had all four replaced. With the Venture LT self levelling shocks we were unable to find any make other than AC Delco. The fronts are Gabriel. The whole lot including front wheel alignment was $820. This was done at a local Midas in Summit NJ where there is an exceptionally good manager.

    Second quote was over $1000
  • offhamoffham Member Posts: 344
    The last two occasions that I filled up just before the last half gallon, there is a creaking noise from underneath the car. I thought it may be linked to the rear shock issue - as above message - but obviously not.

    Has any one experienced this noise?
  • crackcheckercrackchecker Member Posts: 32
    It would behove you to inspect the straps that hold the tank. I don't know about the Venture but my old Durango I owned had a problem with the rubber pads that go between the trap and the tank working their way out of position. It might be as simple as a loosened bolt.
  • offhamoffham Member Posts: 344
    Thanks for advice and checked this am. The gas tank straps all appear sound. They are not bolted to the chassis but clipped in to the body work.

    My feeling is that the self leveling device needs some WD 40 on the bushes which probably dried out a little. I suspect that when the tank is filled up to the 25 gallons the weight of the fuel forces it to move and because it has been "under pressure" creates the noise.
  • 2k1olds2k1olds Member Posts: 98
    While driving home from work Friday, my wife had the a/c on in our 98 Venture LS. She had it set on 3 and it quit working. Now, the blower motor only works when it is set on 5 (highest setting). Does anybody have any idea what this might be??
  • just4fun2just4fun2 Member Posts: 461
    Your blower motor resistor is bad. The resistor is located in the blower motor housing/passenger side. From my Factory service manual for 2002 Silhouette.
       
        Blower motor resistor assembly replacement:

           1. Remove the right side I/P insulator.

           2. Disconnect the electrical connector from the blower motor.

            3. Remove the blower motor mounting screws.

            4. Remove the blower motor from the HVAC module assembly.

            5. Disconnecte the electrical connector from the blower motor resistor.

    Important. Only loosen both of the forward blower motor resistor mounting scrrews. The blower motor resistor mounting holes are slotted.

            6. Loosen the forward blower motor resistor mounting screws.

            7. Remove the rearward blower motor resistor mounting screw. Remove the blower motor resistor from the HVAC module assembly.

    Install in reverse order.

    This is from the factory manual. I take no responsibility for the accuracy of these instructions.
  • tony17112acsttony17112acst Member Posts: 35
    I opened my glove box to my 1998 Venture and there was a door I never noticed before. I opened it and it said "air filter" on it. I pulled out a filter, then noticed there was a 2nd one in there.

    This isn't the air filter to the engine is it?

    I hope not becuase mine was horrendous!

    If these are to the air conditioning/heating, I wonder if they're available at autoparts stores.
  • ronsmith38ronsmith38 Member Posts: 228
    These are the cabin air filters. They need to be changed or cleaned pretty often. I think parts stores now carry them.
  • baveuxbaveux Member Posts: 175
    Look in the same glove box, you might find an owner manual..., if you bought it use,get one from Generous motor !!
  • 2k1olds2k1olds Member Posts: 98
    Anyone had the alternator, and/or starter replaced on their Venture? If so, how much did it cost and could it be a DIY job? I'm getting ready to take ours to Chevy today and just want to be prepared. Thanks
  • offhamoffham Member Posts: 344
    As info the GM versions are $80 for the pair. Bottom end is NAPA at about $23, but are really flimsy. Best buy is www.rockauto.com about $30, these are identical to the GM at lower cost.
  • dlubindlubin Member Posts: 66
    Just wait until he tries to change the air filter, that's a joyful experience.
  • offhamoffham Member Posts: 344
    I agree and having changed it about 4/5 times, I have not really come up with an easy solution and heading that way very shortly for the next change.

    The manual for the 2000 version, makes it all seem quite simple, but you need the strength of a gorilla to get the cover back enough to get the old one out and the new one in without disconnecting any of the hoses.

    Last time I found it beneficial to remove coolant recovery tank and the bar it is clipped onto. This bolts to the frame at the front and rear of the engine compartment. On the 2000 there is a cylindrical attachment which gets in the way if you do not.

    This gives a good working area from the top of the air cleaner box and then you are free to push the cover back. I have also removed the air intake hose from the engine end to relieve the pressure.

    One way or the other it is about an hour or so.

    Always welcome for any other ideas
  • crackcheckercrackchecker Member Posts: 32
    Always welcome for any other ideas

    Ok.

    Purchase a K&N filter and only have to clean it half a much. Plus better filtering with better air flow in.
  • offhamoffham Member Posts: 344
    Can you give me a price idea on the K&N also part number. Where generally are they sold as cannont recall seeing them.

    Rgds
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    K&N Air Filters, bolt-on power? has pro and con posts.

    Steve, Host
  • offhamoffham Member Posts: 344
    Thanks for pulling up the K&N info and seems a mixed bag. Looks like they are $36 each plus the re oiling kit for about $10.

    I have already got the Fram Filter for the next go around, but will check it out further.
  • crackcheckercrackchecker Member Posts: 32
    If you really want to see the effects of the K&N filter you should have the exhaust replaced with a free flow muffler and slightly larger pipe. I have done this with every vehicle I have owned and notice huge huge huge benefits from both over the entire rpm range. If you choose the correct free flow muffler you will not notice any change in noise inside the cabin until you romp on it.

    Like I always tell people interested: You cant force more air in if you cant get more air out.

    After all, the less resistance your engine has the quicker it will give you power.
  • zmarthazmartha Member Posts: 2
    I have been considering a low mileage 2004 Venture, but when I read all the horror stories here, I have begun thinking that our ole red, front traction and trailer towing extended van with 102,000 miles ain't so bad bad after all. The only thing wrong with it under warranty was the rear right leveler shock had to be replaced twice. Since last summer, it makes a popping (clunking, metal rubbing?) noise that in the front right area that 5 mechanics can't guarantee they can fix, (but are willing to charge for it) so I put up with it and my vehicle has been WONDERFUL!!!! Some times the outdoor temp when it's 80-90 degrees shows cooler outside, but that is good. :)
    zmartha
  • vanman1vanman1 Member Posts: 1,397
    We have an 04 Montana and love it. No regrets, would do it again.
  • lct1lct1 Member Posts: 21
    2002 Venture WB Van purchased 5-24-02 List of repairs since new.
    7,380 miles: Belt squeal, serpentine belt replaced.
    12,130 Miles: Pass. Rear door motor assembly replaced, door opens while driving (recall), Driver side rear door latch replaced, Serpentine belt and tensioner replaced (belt squeal), Rear brakes replaced, Rough idle, can’t duplicate. Front suspension bushing replaced(noise) alignment checked.
    14,473 miles, Serpentine belt replaced(squeal,chirping).
    14,990 miles, Water leaking at rear hatch, Rear intake leaking oil( oil pan bolts, oil filter, drain plug tightened) Questioned fix and was told that’s how they fix Honda’s., Front alignment( Paid by me)
    17,578 miles, Serpentine belt squealing and chirping( belt replaced) Water in LR taillight(replaced)
    19,696 miles, AC pressure valve blew out.(replaced) AC air is warm and spitting water out vents. This is Aug. 2003
    19,826 miles, Told AC is working Fine, use recirculate to cool Vehicle. Water coming out of vents normal. Was told no problem with serpentine belt, tensioners, pulleys etc. Belt squealing and chirping normal. Some belts do this(This is 4th belt since new) At this time I made the mistake to contact GM Customer Service, then the BBB. Both said they would help me neither did. All I have ever got is to be told to take it in for repairs. Dah! That’s what I have been doing.
    20,752 miles, AC recharged, Vents stopped spitting water, Air cool at times but not close to what it was, mostly warm and humid. Belt squeal was used on belt many times and did not fix. Belt noise to be fixed for last time Per area Service Manager. Dealer saturated the belt with belt lube, then told me they could not duplicate problem. Belt still squealing and chirping. E-brake not holding, brakes not stopping van. Rear brake parts fell apart.
    21,380 miles, Belt problem addressed again, pulleys not lined up properly, seems to fix. AC still not working right, told cannot fix unless hot outside. Begged them to fix so I could travel to Arizona and Florida, they refused. Pleaded with them to compare to other like vans( I did) they refused. 60 degrees outside, drive all day long will AC full blast and not be cold.
    Arbitration Hearing, IMPARTIAL Tech. Determines AC is working properly( 35 Degrees outside) Failed to mention noise in vent for which there is a TSB on. Offered extended warranty, Told GM I couldn’t get it fixed with the one I had.
    23,296 miles, Loss of power, bad gas mileage, Oil leak, anti-freeze in oil, rough Idle( intake gasket replaced) engine oil overfilled 3/4 Qt. AC checked(warm outside) No Problem found. Although dealer claims they did not work on AC, works a little better.
    24,000 miles to current 25,600 miles, Oil leak continues, Oil dripping from engine since May 2003. Engine stumbles or bucking while driving, Transmission slams into gear and slips. Driver window slow or almost stops midway. AC Blows warm humid air with moldy smell. Before AC was repaired you could have made ice-cream and van smelled new. I had to turn rear unit off cause kids were too cold. Dealers have never driven Van more than 2-3 miles. Vehicle never wrecked or abused and serviced above normal.
    25,848 miles, Engine problem caused by spark plug wires not attached properly when intake was done. Bracket not connected and wires shorted out on egr tube. Had AC checked by a private tech. To confirm AC was not working properly. Then had GM dealer check again. Both agreed it was not right and has low charge. After 3 last chance to repair and 5 attempts to get fixed in almost a year I had an attorney file for repurchase under lemon law. GM refused my claim on that primary concerns have been fixed and AC problem cannot be duplicated. GM has flat out refused to fix the AC and properly diagnose problem since Aug. 03. At times AC vents look like a steam iron and now Recirculate/outside air switch will not work. I have gone to different dealers. Yes this is a true story, I wish it wasn’t.
    29,000 miles After AC not right for over a year, 3 Last chance for repair notices, BBB hearing, and lemon law Attorney saying I had a weak case to do anything I put my tail between my legs and took Van in to be fixed again. The Van was there for 3 weeks. Driver window regulator replaced after a year of refusal. Oil leaking for over a year: Rear engine main oil seal replaced. Interior panel clips replaced. Since wires were replaced mpg on highway has dropped by 5 mpg, no problems found. Dealer claims AC had low charge and leak. Could not find leak and charged system and claims it is working fine. As soon as I got Van back I noticed AC is almost as bad as it was before just a little colder at times. I drove 30 miles from the dealer to my house with AC on full and was not cold. When I got home rear air was 75- 80 degrees, front was 50-55 degrees. Gm has spent more money on repair attempts and fighting to prove there is nothing wrong with AC than it would cost to replaced the whole system. It has not worked properly since Aug. 03. Last response from GM is there is no issue with AC problem. This is short version of my ownership of this Van.
  • vanman1vanman1 Member Posts: 1,397
    Sounds like a bit of a lemon huh?

    Too bad. I'll bet you won't buy another.

    ;-)
  • syebsyeb Member Posts: 1
    Two weeks ago out of the blue my Venture would not start. There was just a clicking sound when I turned it over. Jumping it didn't do anything. I got a new battery an it worked until now when it happened again. Is there a fuel cutoff that might have activated? Anyone have any ideas as to what can make it not start suddenly with no prior warning?
  • just4fun2just4fun2 Member Posts: 461
    Did you check the battery voltage? How about the pos/neg cables? You could have something draining the battery when the engine is off and causing the battery to slowly discharge over a couple of days. Even a new battery will die under those conditions.

    If you are getting the same "clicking" noise, then I would check the "negative" cable for a good ground after checking the battery voltage.
  • glenn41glenn41 Member Posts: 5
    I have a 2000 venture. My van wouldn't start. I had to get a new electronic fuel pump. The fuel pressure would go from 60 to 45 and not start.
  • fear_hopefear_hope Member Posts: 90
    Has anyone replaced the battery cables on their van? I recently had a no-start problem and ended up replacing the battery, alternator and positive connector. Someone recommended changing both cables when putting in a new battery because there might be internal corrosion. Wondering if anyone here has ever done so... If so what did it cost you?
    Thanks!
  • offhamoffham Member Posts: 344
    Have had a situation for some time of the lights both inside and out flickering, not quite on and off but enough to be annoying. I believe the regulator is built into the alternator. Sometimes it stops after about 30 minutes and then will repeat. Any electricians out there who may know something where to start? Could it be the intensity control dimmer on the panel. Only happens when engine is running

    Secondly in the overhead switches as well as the rear washer and TC switches the lights have gone. Can the bulbs in th switches be replaced or would it be a case of new switches all round?
  • just4fun2just4fun2 Member Posts: 461
    I read that GM has a replacement screw/stud for the alternator to stop that. Do a search to find the person that did this to his gm van. He said that it wasn't difficult and only cost about 4 bucks for the screw.
  • offhamoffham Member Posts: 344
    Thanks your info and found that two Tech Serv Bulletins were issued in May 2001. #110501 and #010603005.

    Will crank up the dealer tomorrow to see what they have.

    Rgds
  • offhamoffham Member Posts: 344
    Re Flickering Dash lights etc. Dealer unable to loacte TSB under these numbers. Can our HOST locate the original subject matter and the answer respect of the bolt replacement

    Thanks
  • offhamoffham Member Posts: 344
    The correct TSB on this subject is 01 06 03 005 dates May 01. Found this on Alldata.com under Chevy Trucks.
  • just4fun2just4fun2 Member Posts: 461
    The GM part number is 10316685 Kit screw for Bosch generators, cost $4.08. Hope this helps. The TBS number that you have is correct.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Thanks for getting me off the hook :-)

    Steve, Host
  • offhamoffham Member Posts: 344
    Thanks J4F2.

    The dealer has been paying dumb all week. Left the AllData info in their drop box this am and will test them on this before they shake me down for a new alternator.
  • offhamoffham Member Posts: 344
    Spoke to dealer and they advise that the TSB requires the new bolt for the earth cable off the alternator.

    Will get it back Thursday, currently in the body shop after (1) being hit by a flying mail box and (2) backing out the garage without the hatch not securely locked. In this case it crept up and KO'd the garage door off its tracks, broke the two lift gate supports (fitted these my self $35 each) and new rear tail light assembly from Rock Auto $35.

    If there is any consolation it was a 2 for 1 on the tailgate
  • offhamoffham Member Posts: 344
    Pleased to report that the new earthing bolt for the alternator @ $2.88 did the trick. Labor $88 for one hour. Not only has the flickering stopped but the dashboard lights are much brighter.
  • just4fun2just4fun2 Member Posts: 461
    Glad to hear it fixed your problem. For those of you that want to do this bolt fix yourself, I have read that you can do it yourself and save the labor costs.
  • pbasspbass Member Posts: 8
    A couple days ago the airbag dummy light came on and now it's always on. Are there som easy tests I can do before bringing the van in for service? I figure it's probably a sensor problem.
  • offhamoffham Member Posts: 344
    The first test, that has worked for most people is to "jiggle" all the connections under the drivers and passenger seats to make sure they are securely connected.

    If the drivers seat is power operated, move it to the most forward position and then to its most lowest position. Same should apply for a non powered version and you may want to do same with passenger seat.

    Then raise the seat back to the normal driving position. This generally has been found to re set the air bag display.

    Restart the engine and the air bag light should flash for 6 or 7 times then go out.
  • offhamoffham Member Posts: 344
    See msg #960 on the Triplets site. Do this first before taking to a dealer as the sensors are $$$$
  • 1panky1panky Member Posts: 34
    I tried your simple procedure of eliminating the airbag light. It worked like a charm. Thank you for the information.
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