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Chevy Venture

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Comments

  • livenlargelivenlarge Member Posts: 1
    Just wanted to let everyone know that I have a 2005 Venture with less than 5000 miles on it and in the last week, have had the battery replaced, the alternator replaced, and the water pump replaced. Not a good start..... :cry:

    Good luck with your Ventures !!
  • ClairesClaires Member Posts: 1,222
    There's a lot of discussion about this problem in the Chevrolet Van Owners: Problems & Solutions forum.

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  • agt_cooperagt_cooper Member Posts: 202
    If it's any consolation, I have a 2000 Pontiac Montana (roughly the same as the Venture) that dropped two transmissions in it's first 10,000 miles. Since then, it has been mostly trouble free. Now at about 65,000 miles......
  • rvorvo Member Posts: 1
    Hello Everyone,

    I've got a 2001 Venture LS with 200 000 KM (+/- 125 000 miles). I'm in Canada. I've had the same Intake gasket and Head gasket failures. My dealer up here in Canada told me GM fixes these for free - even out of warranty. I had the Intake fail at 80 000 Km (+/- 50 000 miles), well out of warranty. They changed the gaskets, oil, filter etc. Within a few days the intake failed again, and blew the rear head gasket also. GM replace the rear head gasket, intake gasket, oil, filter etc for free again. I did request that the front head gasket be replaced at the same time as a precaution. It cost me less then $100 (canadian), since most of the motor was ripped down. The dealer also told me the reason for the intake/rear head gasket failures is the poor design of the engine compartment. The Intake and Rear of the motor are covered, so the heat builds up, because cold air can't circulate back there. This also causes premature alternator failure. Notice the '05 Uplander - new front end (ie longer), but same rear portion as the Venture. I would [non-permissible content removed] and complain if the dealer charges you for the Intake and Head gaskets. My Chevy Dealer willing told me. They even fixed the roof paint no charge - another GM problem - because of rust spots. GM also fixes paint delamination for free if you scream loud enough - it works trust me.
    As for the No Start/Security issue. That also happened to me under warranty. I would turn the key, and nothing. Try turning the off then to start again. Should work for a bit. With me it turned out the Security Chip in the Head (under the black rubber) of the Ignition/Door Lock key was flakey. It screwed up the ignition cylinder. After the Key and Ignition module were changed all was fine.
    Any questions please let me know.
  • steve2112steve2112 Member Posts: 1
    Hi there, just a question regarding head gaskets. I have a 2000 Venture, do you mean to tell me that ANY GM Dealer will change these for free? Because it is of a poor design? Mine has 184,000 kms on it, and the engine's knocking pretty good, and I've had to replace and fill my collant twice in the last 6 months or so. It does need a good tun up too, so maybe while it's being done, they can replace this for free?
  • sergeymarkovsergeymarkov Member Posts: 1
    Hi
    I had problem with wipers not going into a park. Shops offered replacement of motor and electronic card. They did not sound convincing so I did my research. I noticed that wipers went to park when it's raining. I disconnected wipers' transmission and tried to move it with hand and they were hardly moving. One of bearings appeared to be clogged with road salt so motor could not move it to park and normal moving speed was slow also. I found shop that agreed the reason of problem (there were some that did not listen) and got transmission replaced.
    Try that.
    P.S. I still do not know how damn motor works; too complicated.
    Good luck!
  • ventureman1ventureman1 Member Posts: 1
    Hi I've had this same problem with my 2001 chevy venture...It had a faulty chip in the ignition key making it shutdown..Hope this helps!!!...good luck
  • sintrasintra Member Posts: 15
    Yes, I had the same pulley problem more than 2 years ago and it was replaced free of charge although the car was out of warranty because it had previously been recalled to check that problem and nothing had been found or done at the time. So it was their fault. The car had 50000 miles. I must add that my Venture has the V6 Catera engine (I live in Europe) and that I found advice on the Catera forum, here at Edmunds. In Europe the Venture is an Opel Sintra. The pulley is in 2 parts that are separated by a rubber part which absorbs shocks.
  • wc_odonnellwc_odonnell Member Posts: 1
    2001 Venture. My air conditioning is not working. The compressor is working and the system is charged with freon. Any ideas?

    I also have have wierd electrical problems such as the tail lights burning out and the driver's side window not working.

    Thanks!
  • ClairesClaires Member Posts: 1,222

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  • rogaurdrogaurd Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1997 Chevy Venture, which I have started having a few problems with lights dimming and the electrical system in general. I do have an amplifer and subwoofers added on to the system as well as an aftermarket cd player which can account for a total addition of 35 amps to 45 amps of draw. When my subs are turned up all of the way they do tend to make the lights dim. Also when I use the ABS the lights will dim while they are on.... That is a side note to my current problem with the electrical system. For the past week it has been getting worse In which I attempt to start the vehicle and it wont start the first few times, but on the 4th or 5th time if it give it some gas it will start up. Also, the lights now dim when the bass is turned up half way instead of all of the way. In the past two days, my ABS light will pop on at various times when i am driving normally and not even using the ABS, as well as the Brake light (in the insturment cluster) does the same thing. Today, it required a jump to get started and then after driving for 10 minutes the ABS light comes on so i turn it off and try to restart it (because that usually clears the lights in the dash cluster) it died again requiring a 15 minute long charge from a car before the jump start would work.
    I'm guessing it is the alternator, but on a previous post someone mentioned a "10316685 Kit screw for Bosch generators" that fixed an electrical system problem? Is it the alternator? The battery? Also if i have to replace the alternator what is a good place to get an alternator with lots of Amps so i can eliminate all light dimming from my subs.?????
  • ronsmith38ronsmith38 Member Posts: 228
    Have the alternator and battery checked. Also there is a TSB on a ground connection on the alternator for these GM minivans. Check to make sure this has been done.
  • buzzlpbuzzlp Member Posts: 3
    There is a bulliten on this problem. It deals with a screw in the back of the alternator which has to properly ground the voltage regulator to the case of the alternator. GM has a screw kit with instructions on how to fix this.
  • rogaurdrogaurd Member Posts: 2
    First thankyou for your quick reply's. Just a couple more questions. What is a TSB ground connection? Is that the thing with the screw that post #1855 is talking about, and if my alternator happens to be dead, how much should i expect to pay for a new alternator (or refurbished one) that is an OEM replacement? Also I was thinking of putting a bigger alternator to prevent my subwoofers from dimming my lights, how much more would a alternator for that cost as opposed to the previous? Finally, what should I expect for the labor charge (either number of hours or labor price) that would be reasonable?
  • ronsmith38ronsmith38 Member Posts: 228
    Yes, TSB is "Technical Service Bulletin" as stated in #1855.
  • buzzlpbuzzlp Member Posts: 3
    This may sound unbelievably simple and silly, but the same code came up on my wifes Venture. I found that she hadn't tightened the gas cap enough. You have to tighten it till you hear at least 3 clicks. If not, it will allow the fumes to leak out thus not allowing the proper pressure in the system setting the EVAP Emiss code. This might not be your problem, but is worth a shot. You may also want to make sure the gas cap is working correctly. They can go bad as well and do the same thing. Hope this helps.
  • buzzlpbuzzlp Member Posts: 3
    Our van has got a bin which has slots in it for CD's to ride in. It is a little out of the way, but comes in handy!
  • offhamoffham Member Posts: 344
    Thanks your note and had it fixed sometime ago, so far all OK, but find lights in the switches are dying off and one in the fuel gauge.
  • ts60423ts60423 Member Posts: 52
    My ugly brown van has been a great car for me and my kids.

    My problems have been minimal over 200,000 miles, but include the following and resolutions:

    If you have ever changed the air filter, it is a PAIN. Get a K&N filter, it does not need changing very often, increases gas mileage, and it is reuseable.

    Change your plugs more often than 100,000 miles. Ask the mechanics for the used plugs - there was nothing left of mine, and it really puts a strain on the ignition system to bridge an enlarged gap. You would be amazed at how little is left of them. My mechanic can put the car up on the lift and change them without lowering the engine.

    Change your fluids - transmission every 50,000 - mine was not and a local dealership messed up a warranty repair on a valve assembly - the combination equalled a new transmission.

    LOSE THE RED ANTIFREEZE!!! - That stuff will eat your gaskets, especially the intake gasket. After only 40,000 miles I changes mine out - it looked fine, but it washed out mud. I put in green and it stayed clean. The red turns very acidic quickly. I recently put in the yellow/orange universal fluid.

    I still have the original brake rotors, all original brakes and pads on the back. Ceramic pads are on the front, a little more expensive, but great improvement in braking, and the rims stay clean. A pad change on the front of these is a snap!

    I just got new struts and shocks - I was riding on nothing but springs. Well worth the cost, the back shocks are cheap and simple to change.

    Get an induction treatment from your mechanic to clean all of the goop out of your intake. Mine gets so bad that my throttle plate sticks shut.

    I enjoy driving my car, and I love the 25-28 mpg on the Interstate. I have a rattle that is a lifter or injector, not sure which. I am tempted to take off my intake and clean it out good. I got the idea to get a shotgun cleaning kit and try to use it to reach in and clean it out, but have not tried it yet.

    Hope this helps someone someplace!

    Ted
    :)
  • ts60423ts60423 Member Posts: 52
    There are two different alternators listed for the Venture - one is for most, but I believe that there is one that has a higher amperage to handle vans equipped with AWD or the rear air compressor. Alternators are expensive, and the labor is worse. There is not enough room to fit over the engine, so everything, including the wipers and motors on the passenger side have to be removed, or the engine rotated down. Very time consuming and labor intensive, and the compact space-saving size means extremely fine, tight windings inside the alternator - life expectancy is only about 60-80,000 miles!

    Good luck!
  • jrdwyerjrdwyer Member Posts: 168
    Great to hear from someone getting that many miles on these vans. It gives one hope, especially after reading and experiencing the various problems on this forum.

    Do you think it is better to switch from Dexcool orange to Prestone orange (are they the same?) or just do a thorough flush and switch to green antifreeze. I have used Prestone orange for 182K miles without any problems whatsoever on my '95 Mazda Protege. Of course, that is quite a different engine than our 2001 Olds Silo. with 45K miles.

    Thanks.
  • ts60423ts60423 Member Posts: 52
    Switch to the yellow/orange that is the universal and can be used or mixed with either red or green. Stay away from the Dexcool - the way my old mechanic explained it, GM went with the dexcool across the board without upgrading their gaskets first. The Dexcool is more acidic, and reacts with different alloys than the green coolant.

    Another problem that came up recently was a small coolant leak. I still have original hoses and thermostat, but I did replace the water pump about a year ago - did it myself, very easy and inexpensive. My leak was where the lower tranmission coolant line goes into the radiator. A repair would have been extreme, possibly requiring a new radiator! I used a Prestone leak stop, and it fixed it right up. Stay away from Bar's Leaks and other similar products.
  • ts60423ts60423 Member Posts: 52
    I had to have my hood repainted recently - I had a lot of rock damage that caused the clear coat to peel off in spots. I also had a patch of corrosion - the hood is all aluminum, and this is very unusual - has anyone else had a similar experience? Even the auto shop at the dealership was at a loss. The corrosion was a white flakey powder and looked like rust bubbling up under the paint, but the paint shop fixed it all up. Just curious.
  • agt_cooperagt_cooper Member Posts: 202
    Not sure if its the same thing, but just about every aluminum fire engine I've ever seen has galvanic corrosion at the door handles. Even though the manufacturers put rubber gaskets between the steel door handles and the aluminum body panels, dampness allows the corrosion to occur. It presents itself as bubbling paint and a powdery residue under the paint in areas adjacent to door handles and other dissimilar metals.

    It doesn't seem to weaken the metal that much, but it is unsightly. If you're seeing this type of thing in the middle of the hood, seems hard to explain. (Unless, of course you mounted a big hood ornament!! ;) )

    Is there any other material in contact or nearby the parts of the hood that corroded?
  • ts60423ts60423 Member Posts: 52
    It was on the folded edge near the passenger wiper blade, and a dollar bill folded lengthwise could cover it, but it was growing beneth the paint. I did a little research, but I ended up talking to a metalurgist at the college I attend. There are three reasons that can happen (normally) - the metal was not properly treated at the factory, but that is easily checked before assembly. Another is to have contact with steel - the steel and aluminum need a barrier, or the steel will lose strength and rust easily and quickly, and the aluminum will lose strength and corrode. The last is interesting - if there is a bad ground in the vehicle, the aluminum can corrode. The aluminum around a bad connection will corrode, and it can even be found that way. I also found out that you can test you antifreeze with an amp/ohm meter to check its charge. If it is wrong, corrosion is occuring inside the aluminum engine and radiator. I also had an alluminum brake connector beneth the driver corrode heavily - yet the one next to it was fine.
  • gadwellergadweller Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone know where I can buy a used upper intake manifold for a 1998 chevy venture. I am trying to replace the one that someone cracked (w/o my knowledge) and apparently now has caused a major vacuum leak. Thanks...
  • ts60423ts60423 Member Posts: 52
    There are many online junkyards with used parts - do a google search on what you are looking for. The one that looked most interesting was this one - http://www.advancedracing.com/car_parts/usedparttechchevy/index.php
    Copy and paste it into your address line.

    If you can see the crack, you MIGHT be able to use some engine silicone to plug it for a bit.
  • ts60423ts60423 Member Posts: 52
    To anyone out there with a need for any suspension work needs - get it all done at once!!! I recently had my struts replaced, and had a failing tie rod. No problem, was expecting as much after 191,000 miles. Unfortunately, now that the new struts are pushing the wheels down harder against the ground, the ball joints now appear to be bad! The problem is that the stupid ball joints did not appear to be bad when checked by the mechanic because they were locked up tight. The original parts do not have any grease fittings, so once it is gone, they do things like that. The worst part is that they do not have any real play in them, they just creak, groan and respond poorly. Not to mention that a failed ball joint can eventually result in joint separation - not cool. :sick:

    ((I actually ripped a hole in the rubber grease boot on each and spay oil in once every couple days to keep it freed up - good enough for now, and my 7-year-old gladly had this task added to his list of weekly chores!))

    Bottom line is this - the parts are not real expensive - its the labor - get it all done at once! It all has to be taken apart and aligned anyway. It is easier for a mechanic to pull out a new part than mess with an old one. Make sure the replacement parts have grease fittings on them for longer life.
  • paulazpaulaz Member Posts: 1
    It's called filiform corrosion & is typical on airplanes, occurs when water & salts are trapped under a paint chip
  • kakojrkakojr Member Posts: 5
    hi,
    just wanted to let you know that it sounds like your alternator is bad. but without properly testing you really cant be sure.. and when you say your ABS light comes on even when your not using it? You are always using your abs unless its disabled.. its probably a wheel speed sensor going bad or not getting enough voltage... that will turn on your light. your brake light will only come on if there is a problem with the fluid. perhaps you have an electrical problem as well. I would get it checked by someone who has a scanner... NOT A DEALER... go somewhere that makes there money on other things, like tires and ask there mechanics if they have a scanner.. pay the 60 to 70 bucks to find out whats wrong. then call other places to find out they're price to fix it... as for all the other people that complain about prices of auto repair.... WHERE ARE YOU GOING??? Think about this... I take my venture van to about 6 different places... I talk to the mechanics not the service guys... I listen to what they say and i judge them.. If i think they're just trying to get my money i go elsewhere... if i feel confident in that mechanic, ill let him work on it... take it from me, I AM an honest ASE certified mechanic. I know how they work... I still go to other places when i dont have time to work on my own vehicle.. or its something thats out of my league... like why wont my dash lights come on.... or the radio lights... i know its not the fuse. but not sure how this venture van works. I am not an electrical mechanic... sorry to ramble on but nobody else has this problem and i was reading yours and had an idea of what your problem was...
  • kakojrkakojr Member Posts: 5
    I am a mechanic, and I can't figure out why my dash lights wont come on. I have a 97 chevy venture with 120k miles. I have had it since 40k.. I have had only minor problems with my van... I am sorry all you other people have had bad luck with your vans.. I do my regular maintenance, oil changes etc. I have worked on alot of venture vans, and all they're owners have praised them... with the exception of the few that just think that if a car starts, its ok, and when there's a problem, its a piece of junk... cars have problems all of them do...but anyway, onto my problem..
    I've checked all the fuses, and just testing different things, i've come to the conclusion that I am lost.... everything works except the dash lights and the radio lights, now the radio lights come on but go off when the headlights come on... there is a dimmer switch that dims the dash lights and i'm thinking that this may be the problem... but before i spend over 100 bucks for this i want to know if anyone has had this problem and if they found a solution... thanks
  • ts60423ts60423 Member Posts: 52
    I have had some really strange electrical problems in a lot of makes and models since Detroit began started using computers in cars. Everything is connected in sequence to circuits and computers, so if one component fails, strange things can begin to happen. Every lighting problem I ever had or helped others to fix was caused by a bad bulb - I even had my dome lights come on when I hit the brakes.

    Sometimes a bulb filitment can melt instead of break fusing itself together and completing the circuit creating bridging circuits that should not be. Look for bulbs that are not as bright as the others or burnt out, even if they have nothing to do with the interior lights. You could also try pulling the fuse on non-essential components (like the radio) and see what happens.

    If not, I think your problem is your headlight/dimmer switch. I would imagine you can use an ohm/amp meter to check it out befor sure. You might even try cleaning it and its connections with electronics cleaner.
  • kkollwitzkkollwitz Member Posts: 274
    "everything works except the dash lights and the radio lights" I think I had this problem a month ago or so, somehow one of the overhead console switches had gotten turned off.
  • jim1venjim1ven Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Venture, which has had very few problems, but now the ABS light
    is on after I drive about 3 to 4 miles. Any suggestions on where to take the van to have this checked out? I am under the impression that a whole slew of diagnostics can be preformed by 'plugging' my car into some sort of terminal or 'reader'. Does this mean that I need to take the van to a specialist? Or can I go to a trusted Brake, Tire and Wheel dealer? I like the idea of going to the Chevy dealer where the car was purchased, but am worried about having to pay a premium. Thanks
  • ts60423ts60423 Member Posts: 52
    Unless you recently won the lottery, DON'T go to a dealership. I have had some good results with warranty stuff, but I have had some really, REALLY bad stuff happen there too - really stupid mistakes that cost me a lot of money.

    Ask around - find someone that is ASE certified and has been in business a long time, long enough to have regular customers, accountability, and never hesitate to answer all of your questions. Word of mouth is best, look for the happy customers, ask for mechanic horror stories, if you know someone with a fleet of vehicles, they usually deal with one shop - you might even figure out where to go by learning where NOT to go.

    A good shop will have a diverse range of specialists to cover all of your needs, and Make a list of problems and take it with you, since putting the car up on a lift and doing an inspection will take time and cost you a little.

    I do not believe that the computer stores much in the way of compter codes for the brakes. Most car parts stores can read and clear your codes for you free of charge, and will even help you at least check your brake fluid and add some if you need it (mine is a 2000 too - adding brake fluid is impossible!).
  • sgtblowfly3sgtblowfly3 Member Posts: 1
    Hello all. I have a 2000 chevy venture that is displaying the change oil message on the dash. I did change the oil and now I can't reset it. I was told to use the odomoter/trip control and toggle it until the word "OIL" appears. However, this doesnt work.
    Any ideas??
  • roadrun1roadrun1 Member Posts: 1
    Bought new, currently 73,000 miles on it. Service engine comes on after 2-3 hours of freeway operation and stays on solid, goes out after several stop starts. Had fuel system service performed, injectors cleaned and plugs replaced. So far happens only on freeway dtiving. What to do now?
    Gary
  • jrdwyerjrdwyer Member Posts: 168
    Auto Zone stores will do a free code read on the check engine light. Their scanners (or any one) will give the code number and system affected. Once you know this, you can start to eliminate possible problems.

    For example, the code read they did for me on my car showed the neutral switch being bad. But this could also be caused by the PCM connection being bad or the PCM not getting voltage or the wiring between the PCM and the neutral switch being bad. So check engine codes do not necessarily give one simple answer to a problem but rather a more focused number of possible causes. This is where the knowledge and experience of a good mechanic comes in.

    If you desire to do it yourself, the Haynes manual for GM minivans has several pages of check engine code identifications related to Emission problems. You can find these manuals at your local library reference desk or at Auto Part Stores. And ALLDATA for $24/yr. has a lot of good TSB and diagnostic code charts for troubleshooting.
  • agt_cooperagt_cooper Member Posts: 202
    Check your owner's manual...

    The procedure to reset the oil change message involves turning the key to on (but not starting the car), pumping the gas pedal three times, then turning the key off, all in 5 seconds.

    The owner's manual will give you all the details.
  • tina503tina503 Member Posts: 2
    My husband and I purchased a used 02 Venture $17K w/ 40,500 miles 11/04 for me. I was so excited to find an affordable used van with all the features I wanted (dual power sliding doors, leather interior, CD player w/ GREAT sounding stereo, captains chairs w/ cup holders, lots of storage bins, very roomy, 3rd row seat folds down flat). Things were going great until early 4/05 when the CD player stopped working - wouldn't pull in a CD. No one drives the van but me or is ever in the car (my kids are small) without me and I didn't break it! I've had other cars with CD players - I know how to work it!

    Took it to the closest dealership and they told me to replace the radio/cd player with a refurbished unit would be $550! I about choked. We decided to do it. Then mid-May I'm sitting at a stop light and the temp gauge is sitting all the way in the red hot - then check engine light goes on, then check oil light goes on. I about croaked! Take it to the dealer, they say not sure...maybe cylinder head warped because it kind-of over heated, but didn't really overheat so coolant didn't kick in to cool it..and possibly warped the cylinder head. (They never did come up with a theory on why it overheated!) Would cost $500 to tear the engine down and diagnose the problem - not to mention the cost to try and fix it! They then continued to hee and haw about what was wrong for 2 days, so we had it towed back to the dealership where we bought it...they discredited the warped head diagnosis and said it was probably the gaskets (but would never know because the 1st dealership threw them out when tearing the engine down.) :cry:

    After 2nd dealership replaces the gaskets, $1,000 later and 9 days later, I have my car back (this dealer picked up half the tab - this is where we bought it and they felt really bad about the problems). One week later the A/C stops working!! Then the next day the temperature gauge starts fluctuating all over the place (never all they way over to hot, mind you - so coolant probably not kicking in). It's now back at the dealership where we bought it - I'm still waiting to see what all is wrong this time. :lemon: We've already sunk $1,500 into this flippin' car since April. :mad:

    I'm looking at Odysseys tonight - I think we're going to lease a $29K car - trading this stupid thing in - and be done with it! I really did like the Venture when it was running, but I'm a Mom and I need a dependable car! One lesson for sure, don't buy a Used Venture without buying the extended warranty - dummy me! :(
  • riverknollriverknoll Member Posts: 12
    To all my Venture brethren, I concede defeat.
    Maintenance cost for latest visit to dealer broke the camel's back. AC compressor they wanted $900, both brakes $650. Factor in a leaking washer tank, leaking windshield, and everything rattles after only 58K miles. Engine runs fine, but I am also starting to add coolant, very suspicious. A 2001 WB edition, and the VCR doesn't work either. Bottom line: I am not willing to wager any additional $$ on this time bomb.

    Traded this 4 year van for 1/4 of the new car price, and got me a Toyota Sienna. Hope this time around the van will last longer than the car payments.

    Good luck to you all. Won't see me in a GM dealer ever again.
  • 3carfam3carfam Member Posts: 1
    Did you find the solution to your van problem? My Wife's 99 Venture did not have third gear or drive. Only 1,2 and R. when I checked the fluid it had bubbles on it and the level seemed high. My Chilton book said "Do Not overfill fluid", but we have never put fluid in. I realize that your message was from 2001, I was just curious if you solved your problem.

    Thanks!
  • heatherw826heatherw826 Member Posts: 1
    I am having the exact same problem with my 97 chevy venture. I only have 1,2, and R and my fluid it too full. The only thing different is my transmission has been flushed about four months ago and the fluids are very dirty already. I found out that the filter was not changed at that time and it is possible that this could be the reason the fluid is so bad again. I just wanted to know if you were able to fix your wifes van, and if so what did you have to do to fix the problem? Any help would be greatly appreciated :)
  • jmt1jmt1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 Venture, I had the head gasket replaced about 2 months ago and everything was running fine until recently when the car would stall out. I took it into the shop and they replaced fuel filters added additive, the computer says everything is fine but the problem persists. As soon as I hit the gas hard the engine "bogs" down almost like really bad fuel. I have been told it could be the timing, electrical, fuel pump, has anyone had this problem?
  • longasheslongashes Member Posts: 1
    My latest project on maintaining the Venture is the passenger side interior door panel coming off. Looks like the clips that hold the panel to the metal door are stripped.

    Anyone know of a place online that I can purchase these from? I've gone to some replacement part websites with no luck. Repair seems simple enough. Any directions would be appreciated as well.

    Thanks in advance!

    Rich
  • just4fun2just4fun2 Member Posts: 461
    I would think that AutoZone would carry the replacement clips for the door panel.
  • offhamoffham Member Posts: 344
    Sorry for delay.

    The transmission cooler has been the best investment. It cost $180 to install and mounts on the front of radiator. I have the transmission fluid and filter changed every 30/35K miles. It does mainly a lot of short drives and stop starts so I go to a transmission only guy and I had it done last Saturday for $65.00. I would suggest you find a transmission only place in the yellow pages. Avoid the High Street regulars or quick change people.

    If the fluid has bubbles then you need a cooler. The manufacturers short change by running through the radiator which on a hot day can make it worse. The cooler drops the transmission temperature by 20-30 degrees.

    Im would suggest to anyone who wants to avoid a costly transmission replacement to get one the cost is minimal in the scheme of things.
  • ronsmith38ronsmith38 Member Posts: 228
    I think the transmission cooler is standard with the trailer towing package.
  • offhamoffham Member Posts: 344
    Yes you are correct, but I am not sure of the size or where it is located. The one I have is about 12 inches by 10 inches. You can them at Pep Boys etc. and they come with all the fittings to mount on the front of the radiator, rubber tubing, clamps etc. The Venture has a lot of space in the front which makes it ideal,

    I tried to get one on my other car - Suzuki GV XL7 and just was not the room.
  • offhamoffham Member Posts: 344
    As mentioned you press the gas pedal three times with the ignition on but not started. I found that as I had a thick rubber mat the pedal would not go down enough to clear.

    What I do is physically move the throttle fulcrum over to the right three times to ensure it is reset. As you are limited on time you have to have the drivers window down to lean in and turn key then go round to the front.
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