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Chevy Venture

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Comments

  • check the fuses in the Engine compartment and if thats not the Problem,
    replace the Starting Motor. :)
  • kayfusleekayfuslee Posts: 16
    After recent snow my wiper arm doesn't return to the normal postion when in the off position. It stays vertical. I read some old posts on this subject that suggested a tab above the wiper motor may have gotten bent. I cannot seem to find this tab. Can anyone give me more direction in this area please?
  • azuazu Posts: 84
    Pop the hood and check to see if you have any snow/ice that prevents the arms from going fully down. Mine does this often and it is due to snow/ice there.
  • kayfusleekayfuslee Posts: 16
    It's completely clear. It wasn't when the problem arose. I'm able to push the wipers down near where they belong, but after turning them on and then off they stop back in that vertical position anyway.
  • 442dude442dude Posts: 373
    The wiper motor is likely bad and needs to be replaced - failure to park (return to the fully down position) is one of the symptoms...Its a semi-common problem on the Venture.
  • hi i have a 1998 chevy venture and I'm trying to locate a noise under the radio by a heater core box. It sounds similar to a blend door closing and opening and it feels like a scratching struggling noise. any one experienced something similar? If so, post a comment in reference to this issue. gracias
  • Hello. I purchased a 2001 Chevy Venture WB Edition at a really low price just a few days ago knowing that it had a few minor issues. One of those issues are the interior lights. All of them: Reading and dome lights. Did you find out a way to get them working again?
  • cabledogcabledog Posts: 4
    edited March 2010
    My 2001 Venture passenger power door won't close.... When I open it using the button it will open but the cable will not retract, it just dangles out of the door guide on the outside of the van. When I hit the button to close the door, it will not close, I can force it to close manually.
    It seems like its a cable problem. I tried to take off the inside panel to see if there was a simple explanation as to why this is happening, but I could only see in using a flashlight.
    If someone has the shop manual - can you please look it up for me with an explaination, part number, picture or any suggestions.
    Any help or ideas would be appreciated?
    Thanks!
  • occupant1occupant1 Posts: 408
    I am looking at a 2005 Chevy Venture, it's the LS model, long wheelbase, with cloth seats, the 3400 engine, and 192K miles. I've talked the guy down to about $2400 and I'm comfortable paying that, but I want to know what problems the 2004-2005 owners have been having. Was the intake manifold gasket problem licked by then? Are the transmissions still having PCS solenoid failures? Do the fuel pumps still fail for no simple reason? I see a lot of problems on the 1997-2003 vans but no one mentions issue with the last two years???
  • cabledogcabledog Posts: 4
    I have a 2002 Chevy Venture LT and I had the intake manifold gasket replaced along with new anti-freeze, oil, and oil pressure switch. It was replaced under my extended warrantee. I also had to have the air conditioner condenser replaced for $1000 and it is leaking again. The rear wheel cylinders had to be replaced because they were leaking on to the brake shoes causing loud braking noise and slipping. Along with the rear cylinder replacement, the rear brakes and drums had to be replaced because the brake fluid could not be completely removed from all working parts in there. I am now dealing with the passenger sliding door that will not open. The dealer says the part costs $1000 alone plus labor. I took the rear panel off and found the door cables were tangled and damaged. I made up my own cables and installed them, but now the door will open using the power, but wont close properly. I still have some tweaking to do on it.
    No transmission problems or fuel pump problems on mine. I did have the tranny fluid flushed and replaced at 46,000 miles. I now have 60,000 on it and so far so good. Overall, the van drives and rides pretty good, my wife loves it, but I don't think I would buy another Chevy van after all of the problems I had with mine and it all occured with under 50,000 miles.
    Good luck with yours
  • boga228boga228 Posts: 50
    To many miles on it. Transmission will go out ant time, and the coolant problem still exist unless you have the full maintenance schedule and reciepts on the van. front wheel bearing for sure are worn by now and supension components also. Think twice.
  • cjp57cjp57 Posts: 3
    2005 Venture with about 120k. Engine code 480. Air conditioner blows hot intermittently. I took it for repair and they said the "main fan" was not coming on and they found a burnt pin in the fan connector. They bypassed the connector and now the fan runs when the air comes on. This is the fan on the van's right side. However they also said the other cooling fan does not come on at all. They said this fan would only come on when the vehicle's temp reached a high level so it is not critical. They said they could not force this fan to come on from the computer but they could run it by jumpering it, so the computer or the harness must be bad. I verified that the main fan does come on when the air conditioner is on, and the second fan does not come on. I checked the fuses, but I didn't check the relay. Are these two speed fans? Or, is it as the repair shops says, one fan comes on first and when the air condition is on, and the second fan only comes on when the engine temp goes high. What doesn't make sense to me is that the van never overheats. Before the repair, neither fan would have been coming on. wouldn't the van eventually overheat? I know the fans runs intermittently and normal air flow at highway speed would probably keep the engine cool enough, but I drive in the city all the time and sometimes get stuck in traffic and the van never overheated. funny thing is that when they did fix the burnt connector the air conditioning seems to be working now. they say that before the fan didn't come on with the air conditioning and now it does. So how was the engine being cooled if neither fan was ever coming on? i also don't believe that the second fan has nothing to do with the air conditioner. The air conditioner condenser looks to me like it extends in front of both fans. I have also read elsewhere that these are two speed fans and both run together at low or high speed. Is that right? Thanks
  • cjp57cjp57 Posts: 3
    I did some testing and verified that the second fan does come on if I jumper up the relay. I also tested the relay and it works. So, in fact, I think the second fan is either not being told to turn on or there is a problem with the wiring harness or computer as the repair shop said. Except, I am thinking there could be another issue... I think there is some kind of interlock with another relay. There are three relays that have something to do with the cooling fans. I know this because if I pull out this third relay, the first fan shuts off and the second fan doesn't come on simply by jumpering across the relay contacts. I think it is time to get a wiring diagram. I hope I can fix this without getting into the computer. How about this? Maybe I could just run the fan 100% of the time. What is the down side of that? I live in florida, so I don't think it would make the car run too cold ever.
  • 442dude442dude Posts: 373
    Run the jumper wire to a switch and then mount the switch inside the car. That way you can turn it on whenever you need to.

    Its a popular mod with Saturn S cars as their fans come on at a really hot temp.

    Or let the fan run all of the time - certainly shouldn't hurt anything
  • Having the same problems with my wifes van. Did you ever figure yours out?
  • we backed out of driveway put the vehicle in drive and it make a terrible noise then for a moment wouldnt get in drive or reverse. after a moment it would go foward i got it back in driveway and now it goes fine drive and reverse no noises to problems but with it running in park or neutral the transmission makes whining grinding sound. anyone had this issue..???
  • Transmission going out. happen to us only that i didn't have overdrive. Had to replace the transmission cost with labor was $3500.
  • not sure if i have overdrive or not hadnt drove fast enough to find out transmission shop saying its torque converter but still has to be rebuilt $2,700 thank you for your reply
  • please i would like to know where the engine number of CHEVROLET VENTURE 2000 MODEL is located,i have checked round the engine found nothing.is it possible that it does not have one?what is the VIN NUMBER is it the same as engine number?i have the CHASIS number why can i not find the engine number please HELP ME
  • Hey everyone, im hoping i could get a little insight on a car im working on. I purchased the car and the seller told me it had started overheating and acting like the head gasket was starting to go bad but not blown, there was never any oil-coolant contamination, and he gave me the full gasket set for the engine with the car. I drove the car home, had to stop twice to add coolant because it was all pouring out the coolant overflow, and then tore the engine down. The head gaskets did not look that bad, the lower intake gaskets looked ok, and the upper intake gaskets looked like crap. I replaced all of them since i had them, also replaced the following, spark plugs (gapped .060), plug wires, thermostat, coolant resevoir lid, power steering pump, valve cover gaskets, pcv valve, throttle body gaskets, exhaust manifold gaskets and bolts, fuel injector o-rings, air filter, and oil/ oil filter. After i did all this i put the engine back together and started it up, it started right up but is not idling smooth and also is still spitting all the coolant back out the overflow. Ive flushed the system and burped it 3 times for 45 minutes each time and it still does it. I also ran a compression test and got 130psi from 5 cylinders and 120psi on the #5 cylinder those numbers sound low but im not sure what they are supposed to read. Also the small vacuum tube connected to the pcv valve is collapsing when the engine is idling and the engine seems like its stalling out. Ive had suggestions that the heads where warped and now i need to redo the head gaskets, the heater core is bad, something is wrong in the vacuum system, and the water pump is bad. So with all this info can anyone tell me what it sounds like im hoping i dont need to redo the head gaskets but that looks like where its heading. Thank you to anyone that helps.
  • cjp57cjp57 Posts: 3
    thanks... yeah, I thought of that, but that is sort of hoaky.... when I jumper up the fan, it ran even with the ignition off, so I need to find a switched hot wire on the top of the fuse box.
  • Oh my 04 venture i have just had one of the wheel bearings replaced and the ABS and the Traction control lights are still on. Some times the lights go off while driving and the ABS and traction control work until the vehicle is turned off for a while then do not work for a week or so. Any suggestions? I will check the plug ins for the sensors first . Thanks
  • I NEED HELP! I tried to have an after marked pioneer dvd touch screen receiver, only to be told the 2002 has data info from the factory stock radio, so they could not send the dvd signal from the pioneer to the overhead factory installed monitor. If they take it out, it will disrupt everything. BUT the factory dvd gives me a BLUE SCREEN and says READING and only plays a few dvd's. I read something about dvd's being recorded as -R and +R, does this really effect it? Does the dvd player need cleaning, or replaced? can it be repaired, and how much? Could I do the install myself?
  • fltcoilsfltcoils Posts: 8
    1999 Chevy Venture Driver Information Center Repair.

    I researched and finally found a fix for non functioning Driver Information Center.

    The solution was similar to that found for similar modules on other brands of vehicles.

    Remove the Driver Information Center Module
    (See GM manual for procedure)

    Push back clips from black housing box and carefully remove circuit board

    Place circuit card flat on table.
    Place display and component side of circuit board facing up
    Rotate circuit board so the display module side is facing you
    There are button switches on either side of the display module
    Look at the right button switch.
    Next to it just left and above are four 1/4" X 1/8" black components attached to the circuit board
    They are marked 430, 430, 820 and 820 reading from top to bottom.
    These are resistors with 43 and 82 ohm values.

    On the two modules I have repaired the problem was with the top most resistor. It is marked 430 and is 1/2" above and 1/4" to the left of the right button switch. The soldering to the circuit board had fractured. I resoldered the resistor into place using a bit of solder and 15 Watt pencil soldering iron.

    All fixed.

    The problem is NOT the black spot on the display in the upper left corner
    The problem is NOT the DC to DC converter modules.

    Why does it come loose?
    I believe the resistor was part of the circuit which supplied power to the display module plates.

    The resistor came loose due to the metallurgy of solder. The solder often is a mixture of tin and lead. The tin is more strongly attracted to the copper in the circuit board than the lead is attracted. When hot, when within 10% of melting temperature (resistors designed to run hot), the tin near the circuit board face will move. Having moved there is stress in the solder at the locations where it left. These holes create high stress in the solder structure, this leads to a fracture staight across the mounting face of the resistor as smooth and complete as if a knife cut the resistor loose. This only happens in designs which allow parts to heat to values close to the melting point of the solder. This rarely would happen in the past before surface mounted components. The cure would be higher temperature solder, cooler running parts, avoiding flat straight mounting interfaces, etc. Reheating the joint sets it right for a while.

    Key words:
    Chevy Venture 1999
    DIC
    Driver Information Center
    VA344314KMD
    VFD Vacuum Fluorescent Display
    Futuba VA3527 2-BT-225GN
  • ceg1212ceg1212 Posts: 3
    notorious for the thermostat going bad just remove the air filter cover and rubber hose to get to it with a 13mm wrench but it needs to be at least 10inchs long to reach the bottom bolt, your irregular idle may be ignition coils so go on line find the 3 coils and plate they rest on http://www.acpartshouse.com/ListItems/MainCategory/Electrical.aspx best price i found, the fan issue shows if you turn on ac the fans will kick on but i need to find the senor that is doing the same thing on mine.
  • ceg1212ceg1212 Posts: 3
    no the van will not over heat probably due to the thermostat being bad or opening too easily to allow easy low pressure high water volume flow to keep it cool
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    http://newrockies.com?ap_id=iykeus
  • trod1trod1 Posts: 1
    I have a Chevy Venture 1999 which has done only 128,500 Km. I was driving 60km/hr. when suddenly the (REAR) stabiliser bar bracket broke from the body of the car.
    With the bracket broken it was difficult to control the steering as the car swerved violently.
    I put this article to warn & caution other drivers of the problem with this year & model because if anyone was at a higher speed it could result in a severe accident or death.
    I feel it is a manufacturing defect of some kind.
    I would like to know if anyone has a similar problem as the company has said that there is no recall on the vehicle.
  • My friend has a 2000 Venture that was making a loud rubbing sound from the front and the rear. They thought it was the wheel bearings. I replaced the front brakes and the rubbing sound coming from the front stopped. I drove it around the block and the sound started again. Now it has a squeak to it. The rear brakes still need to be replaced. What else can cause the rubbing sound in the front of the van?
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