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Real-World Trade-In Values

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  • igozoomzoomigozoomzoom Waleska, GeorgiaPosts: 796
    Consumer Reports shows the XC70 reliability as 'Above Average' for 2004-2007 models. CR rates the S60/V70 as 'Average' for 2005 and earlier, 'Above Average' for 2006 and 'Well Above Average' for 2007-2008 models.

    The S60 got an interior and exterior 'refresh' for 2005 and an redesigned front fascia for 2007. The 2007-2009 models are the best looking, IMO. 2005 was the last year that the base 2.4L non-turbo was standard. From 2006 onward the base engine was the 208hp 2.5L low-pressure turbo. The entry level model was designated the 2.5T. There is also a high-performance T5 version with a 247hp 2.4L turbo. Both engines are reliable, but the low-pressure 2.5T is the one I'd pick if I planned to keep the car for the long haul. My ex-wife has a 2004 V70 T5 and it has over 130k miles on it last time I checked. She originally wanted the 300hp AWD V70 "R" but I talked her into the T5 instead. The R was brand new that year and the combination of a newly designed 300hp engine and hi-performance AWD scared the hell out of me!

    Shortly after we started dating in 1995, she bought a 1993 Volvo 850 GLT. That was the first year for the 850 and it was Volvo's first FWD model (or at least the first one sold here). The transmission went at 80k miles and it was several thousand dollars for a new one. Thankfully she was still being funded by daddy when that happened and I didn't have to pay the bill! She traded it in 1999 for a new S70 T5 (which was the 850 with a face lift and a new name). It had 95k miles when we traded it in 2004 and it never needed a thing beyond basic maintenance.

    You might want to check out Volvo's Certified Pre-Owned (CPO) program which covers the car until 6-years or 100,000 miles from the original in-servce date. You'd need to get a 2007 or newer model to get much benefit from the warranty. A 2006 would expire some time next year when it hit the 6-year anniversary of it's original sale.

    Something else to keep in mind, if you're looking for the best value and a great deal- a lot of 2006-up S60 2.5T models were used in Hertz rental fleets as part of their Prestige Collection. I normally would be wary of a former rental car, but these cars weren't rented to the garden-variety customer. The rental rates were substantially higher and every one I've seen for sale after being in the program were in near-perfect condition. They were obviously treated with far more care than the average Corolla or (godawful) Sebring! =) The used car market is flooded with these models which translates into low prices! It's easy to find a 2007 S60 2.5T priced the same or even a bit less than a 2007 Honda Accord EX, despite the Volvo costing over $10,000 more when it was new!

    I almost forgot to mention the seats. As others have already mentioned, Volvo's seats (more like thrones) are the most supportive, comfortable seats that I've ever experienced. I had a two-level c-spine fusion in 2005 and the seats in my Accord made me miserable if I sat in them more than a few hours. I ended up with a migraine-like headache and my neck was in agony and radiated down my shoulders, arms and back. It was awful. But when I drove my ex-wife's V70, not a bit of discomfort or pain! I finally had to trade in my Accord for something with better seats. I ended up buying a 2006 Mazda3 s 5-door and the seats are still very supportive and comfortable for long periods of time. They're right on the line between very firm and HARD, which is the main difference between them and the Volvo seats. That and the Volvo has heated leather while my Mazda has non-heated fabric...it's not really cloth, more like nylon or something....but it does clean up with a wet rag and Windex! =)

    One more possible suggestion- a 2006-2009 Saab 9-5 also has fantastic seats. The Swedes apparently know something that the rest of the world hasn't figured out yet as far as how to make the perfect car seat! A cool feature that was optional on the 9-5 was seats that were both heated and ventilated (cooled). These models also suffered horrid depreciation, which sucks for the original owner but makes them a great used car deal! The design was pretty old by the time they finally ended it in 2009. It dates back to 1997 although it received numerous updates and face lifts along the way. The most recent and most extensive refresh was for the 2006 model year. Some love the looks, some hate it...same goes for the way it drives. I'm a fan, personally...although I don't really care for the ignition switch being between the seats....Saabs are weird, but mostly in a good way.
  • sandman_6472sandman_6472 Coral Springs, FLPosts: 2,689
    We went that route about 5.5 years ago and they decided it was doing more harm than good, so we stopped it. Am now on pain meds which make life a bit more bearable, & will discuss a morphine pump to replace the oral morphine. Already have a device implanted in my butt that uses electric stimulation to confuse the pain neurons, but it's effectiveness has diminished greatly in the past 3 years. Will talk to my doc this week.

    Walking slowly with a cane or a walker is necessary for any mobility so a car with a super comfortable front seat is essential...my next car will require a power seat, as these are great to manipulate to lessen the pain while driving. Funny thing is I'm able to slide right over in my daughter's Versa and the seat ain't that bad...my Civic's worse & I drop down into it even with my Tempurpedic seat cushion. Will be fun when I do a search in about 5 or so years.

    The Sandman :) :sick: :shades:

    2014 Hyundai Tuscon SE/2005 Mazda 3s/2008 Hyundai Accent GLS/2009 Nissan Versa SL hatch

  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Posts: 2,345
    edited January 2011
    Lots of good info here, thanks. I have made note of your post and put it in my Volvo folder.

    As for CR. One of the things I have noticed with them is the very common theme of improving report cards on cars, the newer they are. Sometimes it will be due to to changes made to the car, but in some brands, change is not drastic from year to year. In this example you cite, the "Consumer Reports shows the XC70 reliability as 'Above Average' for 2004-2007 models. CR rates the S60/V70 as 'Average' for 2005 and earlier, 'Above Average' for 2006 and 'Well Above Average' for 2007-2008 models. " so of course 07 to 08 get the better report cuz they are the newer cars and don't have as many miles on them. I see this time and again with CR and to me, it really makes me question just how useful this part of their reports are. If they show an incessant 'engine' or tranny problem year after year with very little improvement over even a 7 or 8 year period, well that really tells us something. I used to study the trends in those reliability in CR years ago when I subscribed to it. CR also lost credibility with me when they point blank, do a Not Recommended on a vehicle with a higher centre of gravity rollover incidence greater than some of its competitors. Well sure...statistically I guess the numbers show a trend, but even still, i am not an advocate of blaming the car when the blame should be put on the driver.

    CR blacklisted the Suzuki Samurai due to roll over, and I have owned 3 of them., as have many friends. One short WB and two LWB models, and i can definitively tell you, that to roll of those over on the highway is due to operator error. You can roll almost anything over if you hook a wheel off the pavement at a place the shoulder is 4" lower and you try to jerk the car back onto the roadway.

    So while CR reporting does have its merits at times in helping you see problem trends, I don't hang off their every word.

    If you were going with AWD, would you still choose one of these S60's? The other member was saying that AWD was not one of their strong suites due to bad seal and bearing design. I got the impression, the same issue followed them around for quite awhile.

    My fuel mileage books here in Cda show all Volvos as requiring hi-test gas up to and incl 2007. My 08 book shows they all use 87 octane. So is 08 the first yr for the low pressure turbo? It must be. That would be my cut off point as I can't bring myself to buy anything that requires hi-test. Here, that is an extra 50 to 60 cent per gallon hit and in my opinion, cars like Volvo and Saab (even the NA ones) should not be designed to run on premium gas. They just aren't that quick a car to justify that financial penalty year after year.

    So on that same vein I see all Saabs are also hi-test gas :( and will be because all the models listed here are all turbos. Obviously not low pressure turbos. That is a real disappointment as I am not one of the people who are inclined to not trust a Saab. While I don't see the wisdom of having the ignition between the seats, where big heavy coats and scarves, seatbelts and wives purses are in the way, I would not not buy one because of that. The only reason they put it there was cuz they decided it was easier to lock the shifter from that location...but what about the s wheel then? I do love the idea of them having great seats also tho. But it seems wrong to have to pay that premium at the pump when all i want in those cars is the seat. Just checked, 08 and 09 both require hi-test so Saab has not gone the low-pressure turbo like Volvo did. And in 2010 it doesn't even list Saab in Cda.

    I do like that that S60 depreciated so drastically though. And I also respect that with both Saab and Volvo, there are so many models avail with a std tranny. No AWD in the Saab tho of course. Nissan made/makes still I think? a special limited-slip front end...forget what they called it. Couldn't get it on all models ..only higher end Maxima's etc i think. And i have read up a bit on VW's (forget the 3 letter acronym) system that brakes the wheel on ice to force torque to the one with traction, therby giving you true 2WD. I have often wondered if i could get by with that. But they have to be systems that are not part of power-reducing fuel-cutoff type TControls. There are times I can't get up my hill with AWD, until I turn that crap off. Rare, but about twice a year when it is really mild and lots of slush when i need fast road speed.

    I am totally ok with a hard seat as long as the shape and support is in all the right places. I am shocked that the Mazda seat was so much better than the Accord. It just goes to show you that a person can't assume a single thing among cars that normally would be considered very similar in some respects. Are you a normal width? I'm about 17" wide where my butt is, give or take, so fairly wide. I was able to get comfortable in my friend's 06 M Benz ML350, altho the leather seats were too slippery. But they had good support. But, they were no better than a 20 or 30 year old Volvo seat, amazingly enough. Not to my body shape anyway.

    While I will not tolerate expensive driveline issues that recurring in poor design that a brand refuses to address like yesterday, I wonder if I can justify an extra 60 cent/gal hit for the gas? But I don't drive as many miles as i used to, so maybe it would not be that big a deal. But what IS a big deal, (and I speak from experience cuz I used to deliver triaxle truck loads of gas to the gas stns) is that in most gas stns, the hi-test gas is considerably always older than the 87 octane gas, cuz it sits, due to so few sales in comparison...especially so in small towns when you are travelling in out of the way places, where very few cars pull up to require hi-test in farming community where F150's are the most common vehicle at the pumps. And also from experience, I can tell you that you may be paying for hi-test, but not necessarily be getting hi-test. Modern cars with anti-knock sensors can retard the timing so that you don't suffer the pre-ignition woes, but all that does is throw your fuel mileage in the dumper whilst doing so..

    Thanks again for your post. Some really good useful info with useful details and years to distinguish differences.
  • exb0exb0 Posts: 539
    Sandman, thank you for the advice. I tried a couple of cushions for lumbar support, and they don’t seem to help. In all fairness, my condition is not bad as yours. I had excruciating pain for three months, and then it progressively started to get better. Now, nine months later, I have some mild pain as long as I don’t do any physical activity. I can seat in my office chair, as long as I seat upright, and I can walk two miles up to three miles per hour with minimum pain or numbness in my leg. However, seating on a couch, or my wife’s CR-V, or lifting anything over 10 lbs, is a whole different story. Doctors keep on telling me that the pain will go away with time, I sure hope so.

    As far as Volvos, I am just scared of them. Expensive, questionable reliability, and average resale value. For the price of XC70, I can get base Acura MDX. MDX seats are also highly rated. I think I decided on Scion Xb. It is cheap, practical, and has high resale value (almost as good as CR-V). If it doesn’t work out, I can sell it or give it to my kids.
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 6,673
    My wife was experiencing lower back pain and an MRI revealed a bulging disc as well as some evidence of degenerative disc disease. PT has helped a great deal(as has following through with the recommended exercise and walking regimen). Having said all that, she ranks the seating comfort of the cars in my garage as follows:
    1. The BMW Sport Seats in my ti
    2. Mazda Sport Seats in my MS3
    3. Tie: Standard seat in her X3/Standard seat in my 2002
    4. Sahara seat in my Wrangler TJ
    I'll be interested to see how she likes the Recaros that I'm putting in the '02...

    2009 328i / 2004 X3 2.5/ 1995 318ti Club Sport/ 1975 2002A/ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3/ 1999 Wrangler/ 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica

  • woodywwwoodyww Posts: 1,797
    As others have already mentioned, Volvo's seats (more like thrones) are the most supportive, comfortable seats that I've ever experienced.....One more possible suggestion- a 2006-2009 Saab 9-5 also has fantastic seats. The Swedes apparently know something that the rest of the world hasn't figured out yet as far as how to make the perfect car seat....

    I've never owned a Volvo, but always liked them, & have driven a lot of 850's & V/XC/70's. I also owned a (pre-GM) Saab, with very nice seats, but the full size Volvo seats are the best. (The V40/50 cars & seats are not nearly as nice IMO).

    Like roadburner alluded to, bmw seats are at least "good", even the base seats. I have a bad back, & the base seats in my e39 5-series are fine, don't scream out "great seats!" like a V70, but never uncomfortable. The bmw sport seats can be great, depending on your needs/budget/back/body type.

    I remember M-B had an option in the 1990's & 2000's for "orthopedic" seats. Never drove an M-B with those, but sounded intrigueing. Most M-B seats I tried were not that great.

    For those with $$, Range Rover seats are very nice, but I always thought the V70 seats are "something else"......
  • jayriderjayrider Posts: 3,346
    Had bad back pain for years -- tried every thing --chiropractor about killed me. Seems my issue was anxiety not physical. Once I got the meds to deal with that --- everything got better. Back -- spasms--stiffness. those are common symptoms of general anxiety disorder. Won't help a bulging disc of course, but if anxiety is making is worse, may help some.
  • mldj98mldj98 Posts: 378
    Was looking for a little guidance on how to properly price my 4x4 Toyota pick-up.
    About a month ago I had a fight with a chain fence while driving my truck....the chain fence won........basically, trucks rear end slid out from behind me while entering a curve in the road and ended up hitting this fence........I ended up having to get a new hood, and two new fenders...and the grill. There was no damage whatsoever to the motor, tires, rims, under carriage......no frame damage.......just the sheet metal.
    So here is my question......how do I go about pricing the truck? It is a 2006 Toyota Double Cab 4x4 with the offroad package, 32K miles, silver, automatic transmission......I am the original owner...have all of the maintenance records.....all repairs were done at my toyota dealer using toyota parts.
    I used this website to obtain a trade in and private party price but how much should I expect to lose because of this body damage? (although it looks brand new now after the repairs) I plan on being fully honest about it when I go to sell it? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
    Thanks
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,527
    Have you pulled the carfax? I would just to make sure it doesn't say anything crazy on it.

    As for selling privately, it depends on how desperate you are. If you are $1500-$2k under a clean one, that would probably be enticing enough for some buyers.

    '13 Stang GT; '15 Fit; '98 Volvo S70; '14 Town&Country

  • mldj98mldj98 Posts: 378
    I have not pulled a carfax as of yet.....but more than likely it will say "accident".....I did however ask the body shop if this will show up on carfax and they told me that they were not sure how or what criteria an accident has to fall under before it will show up on the carfax report.

    As to taking the $1500-$2000 less......sounds a little steep.....but not unreasonable I guess........
    Thanks
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,527
    edited January 2011
    Put it this way ... if you had to choose between 2 vehicles, and 1 was clean and the other a bad carfax ... how much extra would you pay for the clean one? I don't think 10% is out of line, personally, but its going to come down to the buyer, really. And if it was something like a luxury car, you are talking more like 15-20%.

    Carfax is far from accurate, but they have a strong marketing campaign and buyers will look to it. Sometimes it is very specific as to the type of accident. Hopefully, yours reports accurately so it doesn't scare anyone off.

    '13 Stang GT; '15 Fit; '98 Volvo S70; '14 Town&Country

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Honestly I think the difference is much greater, depending upon what exactly is revealed.

    I came across a used Lexus once that was half the market value, but didn't have a clear title. My guess is it was flood damaged.
  • mldj98mldj98 Posts: 378
    the title will be free and clear.....it is not going to have a salvage title......
    it was just a typical midwestern winter fender bender......
    again...the damage was just to the sheet metal....not the engine, frame, or any other mechanical part......heck not even the radiator, or even the windshiled wash fluid tank was damaged......
  • houdini1houdini1 Kansas City areaPosts: 5,958
    edited January 2011
    There is quite a bit of difference in a fender bender and not having a clear title !!
    That is a very popular truck in a popular configuration. Should bring top dollar.

    2013 LX 570 2010 LS 460 2002 Tacoma 4x4

  • mldj98mldj98 Posts: 378
    That is what my thought was......especially since I have such low miles on it.
    I looked around on the various sites (autotrader, cars.com, etc) to see what was out there and for sale and most if not all have twice as many miles on the truck as to what I have on mine.
    I think what will be on my side is that I am the original owner, have all maintenance records, all repairs were made by a toyota dealership, and heck I will even take the truck down to the dealership and have them give it the once over just to satisfy a potential buyers concerns that the truck is what I say it is.......again, I do realize that because it has had body work that I need to take a hit on it.....but how much? that is what my original question was........thanks for all of the input......look forward to hearing more opinions.......
    thanks
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,233
    People will pay stupid money for Tacomas. I doubt you'll take much of a hit if you're straight up with everyone. I had a '95.5 Tacoma at one time and had no trouble finding a sucker...I mean buyer. I see the older ones sell for nutso money with 200k-300k miles even with the frame rust issues.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,527
    As houdini said, we're talking about a whole different situation here. Cosmetic damage is not going to hurt it like a salvage title or frame damage history would.

    I'll stick by my 8-10%. COULD you find someone to pay full price? Sure! You just have to either get lucky or wait around for that buyer.

    '13 Stang GT; '15 Fit; '98 Volvo S70; '14 Town&Country

  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 29,827
    I wouldn't go with the assumption that I had to discount my price.. It's a five year old vehicle... probably 50% of those have body repairs..

    You have a nice truck with no structural problems... if the body repair was done correctly, it shouldn't have much of an impact on price... Be upfront, when people ask you if it's been in an accident (because they will ask). Start with the typical private party asking price... If you get a live one, maybe cut it $1000 under what you would have taken, otherwise...

    It's a Toyota pickup, not a Mercedes... and, it's an '06, not an '09..

    Aim high... ;)

    MODERATOR
    Prices Paid, Lease Questions, SUVs

  • steine13steine13 Posts: 2,414
    edited January 2011

    It's a Toyota pickup, not a Mercedes... and, it's an '06, not an '09..


    Much as I hate to disagree with a distinguished host...

    It's in discussions like these that I miss Terry. He had this really funny way of breaking people's hearts and bring the cold, hard truth home to them.

    I think that y'all have a point that an '06 Tacoma is a sought-after car that people will pay way too much money for... but there's definitely gonna be a hit from the body work. Even without the carfax.

    Any used-car manager worth his salt will be able to spot the paint work from 50 feet away... and so will everyone at the auction that he might have to take it to if doesn't flip quickly enough.

    Yeah it wasn't frame work, yeah it happens a lot, but there's questions... who did the work? How's it going to hold up? Were OEM parts used. When all panels are original, you know what you're dealing with, and the truck is worth more. That's not really up for discussion.

    So I think qbrozen is right with his estimate on the hit.

    I do find it amusing when people come here for expert advice, and immediately disagree with it if it doesn't suit them.

    Butno matter, somebody will pay way too much money for this truck and have car payments 'til it's 10 years old.. of course, that's not the seller's problem. Want a Tacoma? Buy it new.

    There, I feel much better.

    Cheers -Mathias
  • mldj98mldj98 Posts: 378
    I would like to thank the host for responding to my post.....also would like to thank everyone else as well.....nice to hear some opinions from different angles.....
    steine13.....not sure what you mean by your statement...
    "I do find it amusing when people come here for expert advice, and immediately disagree with it if it doesn't suit them"......
    Your statement is funny to me because I am the one with the truck and have not disagreed with any posting as of yet.....not even yours.....
    What I can tell you is this.....a new 2011 Toyota Tacoma just like mine, equipped the same will cost you around $30-$32K....give or take a few $$.
    Now....even if you put my truck next to the new 2011 you will be hard pressed to see a difference.....on the exterior, the only thing that has really changed is the tail lights.....on the interior, there is even less of a change.
    So then it comes down to this.....is it worth $10-15K in savings to buy a used truck then to buy a new one....that is a qustion that will have many different answers....allot will depend on how deep ones wallet is......what I can tell you is this.....all parts (again, basically all sheet metal) are genuine toyota parts.....all work was done by a certified toyota dealership body shop....all sheet metal is stamped with the toyota part#'s....I have all maintenance records......serviced every 3K miles although the toyota maintenance plans call for 5K service intervals.......I plan on being totally up front about the damage....heck I will even tell them the name and number of the body shop if they want to get very specific info on the damage...I have nothing to hide.......everyone knows these truck will run well into the 200-300K mile range with little effort....especially if you do regular maintenance.......but at the end of the day it is real simple........it comes down to what one is willing to pay versus what I am willing to let it go for...
    I am willing to take a hit on this truck.......but based on what is out there, versus the condition of my truck......I think supply and demand will dictate how much of a hit that I must take....
    Thanks again for your comments....
  • exb0exb0 Posts: 539
    Take your truck to a couple of Toyota stores and have them appraise it. Low miles should compensate for the damage, especially if the carfax is clean. Bring the body shop repair invoice with you.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I hear ya, that's why I wrote "depending upon what exactly is revealed". :shades:
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,778
    Coming in late here but...

    I totally agree with you. I wouldn't discount it at all.

    A lot of buyers won't care especially if you explain what happened.

    "ACCIDENT REPORTED"


    That could apply to a key scratch that was fixed and turned into an insurance company.

    If is scares someone off? Oh well. Others won't care.
  • mldj98mldj98 Posts: 378
    Thanks allot for your feedback isellhondas....
    Like I mentioned before....I am the original owner and have maintained my truck religiously.....every 3,000 miles changed the oil......just finished the 30K mile service just prior to the incident.......have all of the documents....all work done at toyota dealers......
    I realize there are people out there that try and hide the fact that their car was in an accident.....but for me......be honest up front....as it will save you allot of pain in the future.
    To me, it is simple.....either someone will buy my truck, or they won't. But I won't take it in "shorts" just to sell it......if I can't sell it then I will just alter my plans.
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Posts: 2,345
    I am reminded of an interesting situation in which a girl at a wedding I attended many years ago, was telling us about her bad experience with Chrysler and a wty claim on her really new Neon. It only had about 8000 miles and had this driveline noise that little by little became a wail coming from the front that no one could find the cause. Well, long-story-short, it was discovered that she had slid on the ice when the car was quite new and gently (according to her) slid up against a curb at a pretty slow speed. Well they found that that bump had pushed in on the front axle which caused a problem with where the bearing held it and etc etc. They spilt the cost with her, which I thought was actually pretty fair to myself, since really it was her fault. I guess the grey area here is just how little of a tap does it take to displace axle orientation mounting? Too little and it is a mfg defect from trying to build it too light, but the owner's problem if the curb tap was more of a hit.

    So this is why vehicles that have been involved in any incident, have reserved depreciation bucks set aside for potential issues down the road that at first don't get discovered. The fact that you repaired at a Toyota dealership and with all OEM parts, and assuming they did a terrific job, there will always be something, somewhere that makes it worth less. It could even be scratched paint down to the metal where a fender bolts on, that prematurely starts to rust there, that would not have happened if that fender had never been touched.
    So the size of the financial hit, will vary greatly depending on who is kickin' your tires. I commend your honesty though. The world should have more people like you. Glad you weren't hurt when you went fence-stretchin'..
  • woodywwwoodyww Posts: 1,797
    So the size of the financial hit, will vary greatly depending on who is kickin' your tires. I commend your honesty though. The world should have more people like you.

    IS there a carfax of the accident? And are you selling it privately? If you are, you may turn off a lot of buyers by emphasizing the body repairs. (I can just hear a guy's wife saying, "but it's been in a wreck!"). And there is such a thing as buyers doing their own "due diligence".

    Personally, I wish I could only buy used cars from sellers who disclose every single issue, but that hasn't happened yet......
  • mldj98mldj98 Posts: 378
    Thanks for your comments.....and I do agree with you 100%.....once a vehicle has been altered in anyway it will never be the same......especially one that has been in some sort of incident......mine just happened to be with a fence.......
    For me, it ultimately comes down to a "gut" feeling when I am talking with someone who is selling a car that discloses that it has been in an accident.
    One who has a complete documented history of the car is a plus in my book, especially if they are the original owner.
    As with everything is life, there are always risks.....but these can be minimized by making the most informed decision based on the facts on hand.....in this case we are talking about a truck.
    Thanks again for your comments......
  • mldj98mldj98 Posts: 378
    your right.......when some people hear the word "wreck" they turn around and run away....fast.....and I don't blame them a bit.....
    But my situation is what it is....around snow country fender benders and accidents are part of the territory........what it comes down to is how severe was the accident.......if the title is free and clear (like mine is) that is a big plus.......and of course pricing it accordingly is key as well.
    I have bee driving since I was 14 (legally).....which means I have over 30+ years of driving......and this is my first accident......and this one is all on me and mother nature.........I guess that old line really is true...."don't mess with mother nature"........
    After spending 22 years in the Navy I take pride in being honest and up front about everything.......that is something the military service teaches you......and as silly as it may sound.....not being honest while serving your country could cost someone their life........so yes, I would agree with you....I must be a dieing breed.......but we are still out there.......and by the way....I always open the doors for the ladies........because it is the right thing to do.

    Thanks again for your comments
  • igozoomzoomigozoomzoom Waleska, GeorgiaPosts: 796
    mldj98,

    Were you already planning to sell it when you had the accident, or did you decide to get rid of it after your little mishap??? For some people, it's a knee-jerk reaction to want to get rid of a vehicle that has been damaged. I've known a few who were so determined to sell that they readily took a substantial loss due to their "tunnel vision".

    I'm not saying that you fall into that category, by no means...but I'm just curious why you're wanting to sell? You will probably have a few potential buyers who ask the same thing!

    Whatever you decide to do, be careful that you don't "shoot yourself in the foot" by underpricing it. In addition to the unnecessary financial loss, you also run the risk of scaring off potential buyers who wonder why it's priced so much lower than similar vehicles! Just something to keep in mind..

    Just to confirm, the body damage was repaired by the Toyota Dealer using OEM Toyota parts, right? If genuine Toyota parts were used, the only concern I might have (as a prospective buyer) would be the quality and long-term durability of the paint work.

    You will probably buy yourself a lot of goodwill by being totally forthcoming about the history of the truck. Do you recall how long the warranty from the body shop is in effect? I would also contact the body shop to confirm that the warranty on the paint and body work transfers to the next owner. If you can assure the buyer that the body shop guarantees the repairs, that will also win you a lot of trust!

    Before deciding on an asking price, do a bit of research to see how other 2006 Tacoma 4wd Double Cabs are priced. I would use AutoTrader.com and KBB.com (which has for sale listings in addition to the KBB pricing guides). Ebay Motors (completed sales) is another good source. You also need to keep in mind that your truck has very low mileage, less than HALF of what is considered average! Edmunds calculated an adjustment of $1301 for the mileage and NADA added $1200 to the value for that. I think the mileage adjustment will MORE than offset the diminished value from the (minor, cosmetic-only) accident damage and repair history!
  • sandman_6472sandman_6472 Coral Springs, FLPosts: 2,689
    I commend you for your honesty. One question...does the truck drive still drive straight & true without any vibrations all the way up the power band until almost 100? I mean no rattles, noises or mysterious sounds that are not normal? I assume most trucks will have some noises due to the way they are built. If things are as perfect as you say, all you can do is tell folks about the accident & show them the repair paperwork as well as all other documentation. Then it's up to a potential customer to decide. Did you ever check about "diminished value" with your insurance company?

    The Sandman :sick: :shades:

    2014 Hyundai Tuscon SE/2005 Mazda 3s/2008 Hyundai Accent GLS/2009 Nissan Versa SL hatch

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