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Chrysler Town and Country EX/LX/LXi/Limited

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Comments

  • hansiennahansienna Member Posts: 2,312
    At first glance BUT the trained observer notices a BIG difference: The 2005 Town & Country has very prominent chrome horizontal lines whereas the Voyager grille horizontal lines are no more prominent than the vertical lines that are non existent in the 2005 Town & Country.
         The Grand Caravan looks similar to earlier Caravan/Grand Caravan but the GC SXT with Stow-N-Go grille does not dip into the bumper as it does on earlier Caravan/Grand Caravan or 2005 Caravans and Grand Caravan SE.
         LWB 2005 Town & Country and Grand Caravan SXT models are made in Canada while the Caravan, GC SE, and SWB Town & Country (Voyager) are made in Fenton, Missouri.
         DC minivans are still the most attractive minivans closely followed by the Odyssey. Quest and Eurovans are the ugliest with others falling in between. The Sienna and Odyssey will probably have the best long term reliability and resale value.
  • uga91uga91 Member Posts: 1,065
    You're correct, the 2005 T&C does have the little chrome strips and the flat place for the plate and slightly different shaped headlights; but, in my humble opinion, at quick glance, the front of a 2005 T&C looks practically identical to the front end of a 2003 Voyager. Only people schooled in the styling cues of the 2005 T&C will tell them apart without having to study them first. I love it!
  • hansiennahansienna Member Posts: 2,312
    Seems weird that Chrysler dropped the name Voyager. Won't this create confusion for some customers? (Just as Chevy did when they had 2 sizes of Blazer and then changed the larger one's name to Tahoe).
         Is your town still a military town? If so, do you see many military families with minivans? What is the most popular minivan in your area?
  • uga91uga91 Member Posts: 1,065
    Chrysler still has the SWB van, they just call it Town and Country. The LWB models get extra designations. I think they did it to get the "value" name of Voyager away from their "premium" brand of mini vans. You'll notice that the Dodge vans start much lower and work theri way up to about where the T&C line starts and the T&C line goes up from there (in base prices, of course). I think this is a wise decision. I never thought it made sense to have Grand Caravan models costing the same as--or more than--the "upscale" T&C models.

    Columbus is a large military town. Fort Benning is the second largest Army base we have, so yes, there is a large military presence. I would not say that Columbus is a mini van town, though. The "macho" soldiers seem to prefer SUVs. If I had to guess, I'd say the Dodge line is the most popular in Columbus, followed by the Chrysler models and the Chevy Venture. Considering that the DC vans are the best selling vans in the country and that Columbus is the home of Bill Heard Chevrolet (the largest volume Chevy dealer in the US), this does not surprise me at all.
  • samnoesamnoe Member Posts: 731
    While I personally like the old ('04) grille better than the new one, I understand that at some point there must be a change. But I really don't like they put the Chrysler badge at the top of the grille, as the old Voyagers.

    The '02-'04 Toyota Camry has had a lot of criticism for putting the Toyota badge on top of the grille, and the 2005 Camry will address it and move it more to the center.
  • jazzyroojazzyroo Member Posts: 4
    I am having a bizarre problem with the DVD system in our 2003 T&C (we have had the car for 9 months, it has 14K miles on it right now). It is intermittent, thus very hard for me to get the Dealership to figure out. When we insert DVD's into the system, occasionally we will lose volume control for the system. If you try to turn the volume control on the dash, it will turn down to mute, but will not go up, although the DVD continues to play as normal on the screen. I have ended up having to switch back to the radio, turn the volume up excessively loud 33+ and then go back to the DVD just to get the volume at a "hearable" level and once this is done, then you can control the volume of the DVD system again. It is really annoying and the service guys at the dealership look at me like I am crazy!!!

    Also, if anyone knows how to get the brakes to stop squealing, the dealership says it is "brake dust" or normal because they don't use asbestos in the brakes so metal on metal, but they squeal really loud and it is frustrating.
  • tomtomtomtomtomtom Member Posts: 491
    I think the DVD player's audio output to the main control got messed up or have a bad connection. As for the brakes, I had the same problem with my 01 T&C ltd. Midas told me that the brake dust was the cause of the squeak and the only way to correct it is to install a new pair of pads (not from Mopar). If your pads are at 30%, I would go ahead and change them. If not, just roll up the windows everytime you are at the lights and ignore the stare by the driver next to you.
  • jazzyroojazzyroo Member Posts: 4
    Thank you, I will pass on the word to the Chrysler dealer, hopefully they will fix this weird problem with the DVD sound... I will take the van to the brakes people next week - I would rather pay to get them fixed than deal with the stares.. that is just me.. LOL :) Thanks for the help..
  • briankrileybriankriley Member Posts: 1
    i've just noticed this thread and think it might relate to a problem i'm having with my `01 t&c. are you guys talking about a sound coming from the engine area? i've got what can be described as a whine or moan/groan that i think is belt or something. it happens from time to time either when i'm stopped at a light, or moving at a slow rate of speed. my dealer hasn't been able to figure it out.

    thanks for any help.
  • michael700michael700 Member Posts: 2
    I've got a 2001 T&C Limited and it has an A/C condensation leaking into the front passenger compartment. This occurs whenever we drive for more than 1 hour with the A/C on. It doesn't leak when it rains (unless the A/C is on for more than 1 hour).

    I've taken it to the dealer several times:

    1st time the drain hose was cleaned out, this did nothing.
    2nd time the drain hose was replaced with a longer hose according to the TSB on this vehicle. This fix was done late in the summer. This seemed to help for a while, but the next summer, the leaking had returned.
    3rd time the dealer spent 2-3 days trying to get the vehicle to leak--they let the vehicle idle with the A/C on high. This did not cause the leak to appear. My theory is that the leak only occurs when the vehicle is in motion and the water is draining back against the body of the vehicle and not just dropping straight to the ground. The dealer wasn't interested in my theories and thought I was wasting his tech's time trying to find a leak. He even suggested that the water was the result of one of my kids spilling a glass of water!

    Post 566 from this discussion may be the answer to what is happening here, does anyone know if the faulty units that grh7 referred to in post 556 were used in the manufacture of the 2001 T&C? Anyone else have any other advise on what to look for/do next?
  • info4uinfo4u Member Posts: 9
    Boy do I have a problem using this site. Anyway to briankriley and pigfanatic I have now rejected my whine sound as coming from the trans. I'm sure it is the power steering pump now. Always get the whine after coming off the highway at 65mph. Also get a shudder from the front when turning at low speed. Don't hear the sound until almost at a stand still. Can never get into the dealer while its happening so standard reasonable reply is "don't know without hearing it". Have 56,400 miles on it and have read that dealer will not honor service bulletins after waurantee expires. Since pigfanatic provided me with service bulletin no's. for both steering whine/moan,groan and shutter I intend to go back to dealer with the numbers and see if they will do a fix.
  • amitnisamitnis Member Posts: 1
    I am looking to buy a pre-owned town and country (2001-2003). Any recommendations? Anything I should be aware of? I heard about some mechanical problems the T&C suffered from. Any feedback about that?

    Thx.
  • uga91uga91 Member Posts: 1,065
    I would try to find a low miles 2001 myself. I had a 2001 Voyager that I traded on a 2003 Voyager LX (the SWB version of the Chrysler van). I found several things that were "missing" from my 2003. The 2001 had "defrosters" on the windshield wipers to melt ice away from the wipers that the 2003 does not have. The 2001 also had more interior lights and more air vents. There is nothing "big" that is missing; but, there just seem to be a few cost cutting measures taken on my 2003. I will say, though, that my 2003 seems to shift more smoothly than my 2001 did. Not that the 2001 was bad, it wasn't--I never had any issues with my 2001. Good luck!
  • duke87nukeduke87nuke Member Posts: 12
    I just had my 2nd battery go out - both in under 18 months! They were in a 2001 LXi with the tow package, so they're the slightly bigger MOPAR 600 amp batteries with a 60 month warranty. Both times it happened with no warning - we got back in the car and it wouldn't start at all and the battery would not take a charge. The 1st time I could barely jump it and nursed it to the dealer who swapped me a new one under warranty. This time, it wouldn't a jump at all & it was Sunday, so I had to go get a new one at Sears and put it in myself. Luckily I was around both times. I do not expect a new van to be stranding my wife & 3 kids.

    I live in Atlanta so heat is the main thing that could impact battery life. Both batteries devloped some sort of internal fault and would not take any charging current. Is this a common problem with MOPAR batteries or does it have to do with the T&C's electrical system? Anybody ever had Chryeler reimburse them under the 60 month pro-rated battery warranty for purchasing a non-MOPAR battery when it left them standed?
  • jtheronjtheron Member Posts: 24
    Our 2004 T&C also had a bad battery with under 1000 miles. We jumped the van 3 times and then took it in, thought we left the lights on or the kids watched the DVD or something, after the 3rd time we knew it wasn't us and got upset and took it in, dealer rep said it happens alot and that we must have done something wrong, said the battery checked out OK and they charged it, told us to drive the van more often. We left feeling that this dealers new cars regularly don't start and that the dealer thinks that is a good thing, we felt we shouldn't be so stupid and should turn off the lights and drive it more often, and we should be grateful that the brand new van doesn't start all the time cause it saves us money on gas.
    We took the van home and the next time we used it, one or two days later, the van would not start at the grocery store, we got it to the dealer and talked to another rep and this time the battery did not check out and they replaced it. Don't settle for a rep that knows nothing and doesn't want to help and blames the customer for whatever happens.
  • masterpaul1masterpaul1 Member Posts: 421
    We have a 2001 GC with the MOPAR 600 amp battery (We are not the first owners). Just about a month ago, we had the van in for its routine oil change. We live about 50 miles from the dealer which comes out to about an hour of driving on the expressway. The A/C was on the whole time and didn't have any problems what's so ever. When we got to the dealer, they drove the van to the area where the oil change was going to be done. About 45 minutes later they came and told me that we needed a new battery. I asked the rep how could this be when we didn't have any problems or warnings before hand. He said that they are trying to figure it out but the charging system checked out fine. He mentioned that the battery wouldn't even hold a charge. So we bought another MOPAR 600 amp battery with a one year full replacement warranty and prorated after that. We haven't had any problems and have been using the A/C. We also drive for over an hour everyday. I know for a fact that batteries do go bad without warning sometimes, so it is a common thing. I guess my problem with the whole thing was that no warning or problems before it died. Another thing I know is that there are safety features on our van that would prevent battery drainage. Like if we leave the headlights own after the engine is off, the head lights turn off in 5 minutes or something like that. Or if we leave the interior lights on, they turn off after 15 minutes. Most vechicles have features like this which I think is very good. Thank God that we went to the dealer first before we went shopping that day, because we would have been stuck in a parking lot even though I carry jumper cables.
  • marktagsmarktags Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 T&C EX. I guess it was manufactured in late
    2001 as it has an in service date of October 2001.If one was to look at early verisions of the 3.8 liter engine for 2002, it looks to be silver in color with "3.8" etched into block. The later versions of the 3.8 liter for model year 2002 have a black color "3.8" engine block.These are the same engines with 215 horsepower. Does anyone know the reason for the change? Just curious. And does anyone feel a hard shift from 1st into 2nd gear at around 10 miles per hour?
  • masterpaul1masterpaul1 Member Posts: 421
    We have a 2001 GC EX with the 3.8L engine, to which I believe has the same engine as in your T&C. Our van was manufactured in May 2001 to which the 3.8L on the engine block is silver, I think. (I will confirm). I haven't noticed any hard shifts between 1st and 2nd gear. Can you give more detail as to the problem. What I have noticed is that in 1st and 2nd gear, there is a lot of torque when starting from a stand still. It took me sometime to get use to the high torque and going easy on the gas paddle. Our van takes off fast if were not careful. Sometimes you can hear the wheels screeching when starting off a red light.
  • marktagsmarktags Member Posts: 2
    I notice the hard shift at 10 miles per hour and when I am not accelerating. It kind of shakes the whole van. The tech said he can't find the problem. Also, why did Chrysler change the engine block color on the 3.8 (silver to black)? Anyone with info please post.
  • duke87nukeduke87nuke Member Posts: 12
    I agree on the no warning aspect - you’d think there would be some way you could get some advance notice before something dies so completely.

    I was unsuccessful in getting my Chrysler dealer to do anything for my battery failure. Even though it failed in only 19 months of service, the dealer said I was not covered by the battery’s 60 month pro-rated warranty because they had installed it as a replacement under my new vehicle warranty. If I had BOUGHT it from them, they said I’d be covered by the battery warranty. Since I’m over 36k miles, my vehicle warranty is done and I have no coverage. So needless to say, they did nothing for me. The dealer rep said they “don’t make batteries like they used to” and these failures are common in the Georgia heat. I consider 2 breakdowns in less than 3 years for a failed battery to be unacceptable and am very disappointed in Chrysler’s acceptance of any accountability on this. My neighbor’s Odyssey’s are not having this problem in the same driving conditions. I only hope my new $89 Diehard battery does better. I would steer clear of any MOPAR batteries.
  • uga91uga91 Member Posts: 1,065
    I also live in Georgia and I have to agree that the heat here does kill factory batteries pretty quickly. My vans have not had batteries die, but I have had 2 cars over the years that had their batteries die after only a couple of years. I know several people who have had to replace theri batteries in a year or two as well. To my knowledge, batteries are not covered under the 36,000 mile warranty--I guess because they know they are cheap batteries that probably will not last.
  • masterpaul1masterpaul1 Member Posts: 421
    marktags, the 3.8L on our engine block is silver.
  • law4youlaw4you Member Posts: 7
    I had the same noise you are describing at the same times with our 2001 T & C Limited starting around 40,000 miles. I thought it was the transmission but it turned out to be the power steering pump fluid which was cleaned out and replaced for around $60 and that solved the problem The service writer is "Willie" at Prebul 423 855 1166.

    Now at 70,000 miles I get a whirring noise from under the hood upon shutting the engine off. Anyone know what that could be and the fix? I have also been waiting 6 months for replacement front seat heaters as they are inoperative. Finally, I replaced the Michelin tires with Goodyear Assurances....best tire ever!
  • njbaran99njbaran99 Member Posts: 69
    I purchase an 04' T&C LTD and unfortunately did not get the Tow Prep Pkg and Now I think I need it.

    Looking at the options for the 04', it appears all that was added was: 1) Wiring Harness (no biggy can add), 2) Full Size Spare (Have that), but the next 2 items 3) High Capacity Engine Cooling and 4) Load Leveler/Self Leveing are not as easy.

    Has anyone retrofitted a Non-Tow Prep to get it to the 3800 Tow Limit, up from the 1500-2000 # limit without the Tow Prep?

    Can it be added at the Chrysler Dealer?

    I checked and Monroe makes some Air-Shocks to help with Towing, just not sure what it would do to the ride.

    Engine Cooling, do the Tow Prep have the same Radiator and does it include a Transcooler or Engine Oil Cooler.

    Any advice would be appreciated. For the $400 bucks extra, not sure why they just don't throw it all in.
  • vicki1vicki1 Member Posts: 1
    my horn quit working, so replaced the burned out fuse, and it immediately blew again as soon as I touched the horn. Have 1994 T&C van. Hubby thinks it's the horn relay? Sound right? And how can we tell which relay is the right one? Are they marked somewhere?
  • njbaran99njbaran99 Member Posts: 69
    I stopped into a Chrysler Dealer today and spoke to a Saleman, asking him about the aftermarket Tow Prep. He said that his dealership commonly adds a Transmission Oil Cooler to Non-Tow Preps and that it's enough to make the T&C Tow the full 3800#, up from the 1500# for a Non-Tow Pkg.

    I will call tomorrow and confirm this with the parts department.

    I did speak to a Parts Dept that was Open on Monday and he said the Radiator is the same for ALL 04' T&C regardless of Tow Prep, suggesting there is ONLY 1, so an upgrade Radiator is not required.

    Self-Leveling Shocks maybe needed, but they are $400 each. So I may opt for some Monroe AirShocks, if needed, and manual raise the Rear if needed.

    Alternator on Tow Prep may be 10 AMPs more, but I am not sure powering a couple more lights and Electric Brakes are going to push the T&C Over a 150 AMP Limit.

    Anyone Tow a 3800 Load with a Tow Prep or Non-Tow Prep T&C.
  • ViperggVipergg Member Posts: 24
    Have a 2004 3.3 liter with prep package rated at 3800 lbs . I'm towing probably 3500 lbs , it does ok on level roads , wouldn't want to climb any steep hills even driving it in 3rd all the time . If you don't have to go long distances it's ok . Maybe the 3.8 would handle load a little better . That's scary that I would have to pay $800 to replace the 2 rear shocks and that doesn't even cover the fronts .
  • hansiennahansienna Member Posts: 2,312
    Chrysler made the name of this forum obsolete with their penchant for adding new names and dropping familiar ones.
         Honda and Toyota are smarter to keep the same names long enough for consumers to know where each trim level fits into the pricing structure.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Member Posts: 1,565
    Most manufacturers tend to juggle around the options included in various upgrade versions of the same vehicle from year to year anyway, so I don't really pay that much attention to the various EX/LX/.....etc. versions. I just figure out what I want in the van, and compare it with what's available on the lot and start negotiations from there. If the negotiations go no where, I try again at another dealer until I get about what I want at the price that appears good.

    In Chrysler (and Dodge) minivans case, it appears when they went to the 2005 designs with Sto and Go on some models, they wanted to simplify somewhat the available models, and provide more standard packages, so they changed the naming conventions. For instance, one example I know of, I believe in either 2003 or 2004 they introduced the SXT package of options available on the SE Dodge minivans. Thus you had SE's and also SE-SXT's. for 2005 instead, now they just have the SXT as a separate model with it's own standard included options, separate from the SE model. They tried to make it a bit less confusing than the past. But yes, it does cause a bit of confusion when comparing adjacent model years.

    I don't change vehicles often enough to worry myself about these minor issues anyways.
  • hansiennahansienna Member Posts: 2,312
    My son has a 2002 Grand Caravan Sport. Before 2001, the Sport was an option on the GC SE but when the 2001 Grand Caravan appeared there were just 2 models: GC Sport and GC ES.
         Originally, the Caravan was just Caravan, Caravan SE, and Caravan LE. The Town & Country was a luxury minivan but now the name has been watered down so the SWB T&C is a lesser vehicle than the Caravan SXT and the SWB T&C does not even offer a tachometer as an option.
         Why drop LXi and call the mid-range model the "Touring"?
         Most Hondas are LX or EX while most Toyotas are CE, LE, or XLE which is much more sensible.
  • hansiennahansienna Member Posts: 2,312
    My son has a 2002 Grand Caravan Sport. Before 2001, the Sport was an option on the GC SE but when the 2001 Grand Caravan appeared there were just 2 models: GC Sport and GC ES. The GC SE was added and then the EX and EL models. Now the Sport is dropped with the EX and EL.
         Originally, the Caravan was just Caravan, Caravan SE, and Caravan LE. The Town & Country was a luxury minivan but now the name has been watered down so the SWB T&C is a lesser vehicle than the Caravan SXT and the SWB T&C does not even offer a tachometer as an option.
         Why drop LXi and call the mid-range model the "Touring"?
         Most Hondas are LX or EX while most Toyotas are CE, LE, or XLE which is much more sensible.
  • njbaran99njbaran99 Member Posts: 69
    Well my local dealer where I bought my 04' T&C Ltd said that for $850 they will add a Transcooler, Class II Hitch w/ Receiver and Ball to make my Non-Tow Prep support the 3800# capacity.

    This is 2X that which I can get at a local Trailer Hitch store.

    As I called about my Warranty they said this was the sure-est way to insure Warranty is not effected, as it would be a Mopar Part.

    I may just have them install the Trans-cooler, as the Hitch as nothing to do with making the under-lying vehicle 3800# capable.

    Any thoughts?
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Member Posts: 1,565
    Well, when DC decided to drop the Plymouth brand, they still wanted to support a lower end minivan product, thus came for a while the Chrysler Voyager. Then they decided to combine them all into the T&C brand, so now you have a stripper T&C.

    Still my point is, does it really matter? Also, doesn't Toyota have a whole bundle of different option packages for their three models? Myabe Honda too, though I haven't perused their offerings.

    In the end, you really have to closely look at the options list of any minivan on the lot to determine what it has. You cannot just look at the letters on the back of the van. The letters on the back mean nothing to me.
  • masterpaul1masterpaul1 Member Posts: 421
    I agree with you all the way badgerfan. Last year in July 2003, me and my wife started looking at used minivans for both Dodge and Chrysler for years 2001 and 2002. It took me sometime to really get to notice the various options on each trim line for each year. Not to mention the price for the options that we wanted and needed. It really took me about a month of doing research on all 2001 and 2002 Dodge and Chrysler minivan trim lines to narrow down the choices. What I found was, you have to really compare what comes standard, the options available and price for each trim. At one point, it got really confusing, until I printed out each trim and did a side by side comparison. As it has been stated before, don't worry about what the trim lettering is, just what options you have that are included with the price and options that you can add on. Dodge and Chrysler have the most choices to choose from when it comes to their minivans as far as prices go and options. Also, this goes to show you just how different each trim from year to year is that a lot of people don't even notice when they see the letters on the back of the vans. You really have to know what year the van is.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    The option packs really confused me back in '98 when I was shopping and it was a bit frustrating ... but what I'd really like is the ability to build my own, picking from the whole laundry list of options and still get the van delivered in a week or two.

    Steve, Host
  • fgjoe2000fgjoe2000 Member Posts: 1
    i picked up a 96 xli with 68k on it drove it off the lot after a test drive and the car stalled out. it started right up so i didn't worry. since then it will sputter and just die out at different times. fuel pump was checked by dealer mech. he said the pump had an output of 36 psi. what can make this happen. it doesn't happen somedays not at all. could it be the pump, filters, or some sending unit from the throttle?????? please help if you can.
  • hansiennahansienna Member Posts: 2,312
    Sounds like a plugged fuel filter. There is adequate pressure but insufficient flow of fuel.
  • info4uinfo4u Member Posts: 9
    Finally had success identifying mystery sounds ie: whine & shutter in my 2001 T&C LXi with 64K miles. And this from a dealer of all places.
    Whine was from bearing in A/C compressor which had an extended warantee of 70,000/7 years costing me nothing. Replacement eliminated mystery whine that only appeared when pulling off highway after a couple of hours at 65-70 mph.
    Two other dealers in two other states never even considered the A/C and since the sound went away after five minutes I just got the "what problem?" routine.
    The shutter from the steering under the same condition was air in the fluid and therefore caused cavitation in the pump when it got hot. Was told the fluid was also burned and that it should be flushed every 30,000. I challenged that with the fact that nothing in the literature received with the van called for such maintainence. I agreed however since I had observed once that the fluid appeared to be percolating in the reservoir. They were right. They flushed out the system and replaced the fluid with ATF trany fluid. No more shutter. It was worth the $98 cost.
    Put on 4,500 miles in two weeks after these services. Noise free I'm happy to report. And I thought it was trany whine. Duh.
    This van now has 64,000 miles on it in just about 3 years and this is the first repair required. Judging by all the problems people report I must have gotten an exceptional vehicle.
    Thanks to all those who provided input for me.
  • duffmanduffman Member Posts: 1
    I have just returned from a camping trip out west, where I pulled my Palomino Colt pop-up camper. I have a T&C LX V6 3.8, NO tow package. I want to upgrade to a bigger pop-up camper, but am worried about the max I can tow. I have a hitch already, after market, that was installed beautifully. I have probably logged ~4K miles with my current set-up. I was interested to hear more about how you have succeeded in bringing your T&C up to max towing of 3800# after market. Sounds like the trans cooler and shocks are what I am lacking? Thanks in advance
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    You may find some generic tips over in Towing tips for SUVs.

    Steve, Host
  • ncagncag Member Posts: 1
    Love the idea of Stow-N-Go Seats...but after all that folding and stowing, how comfortable are those seats? Does that space-age foam hold its shape and remain 'cushiony'?
  • sopecreeksopecreek Member Posts: 203
    I just hope it's not the same material as the one used in my Tempurpedic mattress. I spent over $1800 to buy and it was great for 3 months. Now it sags all the time.
  • striker5striker5 Member Posts: 8
    Just traded my 2001 limited for a 2005 model. I was really surprised as to how soft and floating the suspension is on the highway. My 2001 seemed to handle much better but it did have the trailer towing package which my 2005 doesn't. Does anyone know whether the 2005 suspensions have been softened sometime between 2001 and 2005 or does the trailer pkg. make that much difference? Also, can the 2005 suspension be firmed up with different struts or other aftermarket or factory replacements? The 2005 seems way too soft for my taste!
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Did you check the tire pressure?

    Steve, Host
  • jhartmann2jhartmann2 Member Posts: 13
    2002 T&C EX with 26K miles.

    A few months I started hearing horrible squeaking noises around the dashboard. After a quick examination I saw that the dash had separated from the A-pillar on the driver side only. I had the dealer fix it but its still squeaking everytime I go over a bump on the road. Placing prssure on some of the dash fixes the problem but not entirely. I'll be taking it back to the dealer for another repair. Any ideas why it could still be squeaking. I have a feeling the dealer won't do anything but in my opinion the dash should be removed and replaced to fix the problem.
  • kernskerns Member Posts: 1
    Van, I want to know the difference between a LXI and a Limited, Don
  • hansiennahansienna Member Posts: 2,312
    The LXi is no longer produced while the Limited remains the top of the line Chrysler Town & Country. The former LXi is now known as the Town & Country Touring. Chrysler has dropped the T&C eL, eX, and LXi in addition to the Voyager eC and the Voyager name completely.
        In 2003, the Limited had all the items standard on the LXi plus Supplemental side-impact driver and front passenger Air Bags, Luxury floor mats, Driver's seat memory for power seat, suede inserts in leather seats, heat front seats, 8 way power driver's and passenger seats, security alarm, traction control, in dash 6 disc CD changer, tire pressure monitoring system, 16 inch chrome wheels.
        One could add options to the LXi and make it almost as loaded as the standard Limited.
  • chevronchevron Member Posts: 1
    I see that this message is a few years old but, I recently corrected the same problem in my 2001 town and country.
    What is happening is the condensate drip tube is to short to allow the water to drain away from the floor pan. What happens, the water will run back into the firewall and cause the floor to be wet along with rusting out the rear air refrigerant lines.
    All I did was cut a piece of 5/8" I.D. clear vinyl tubing and forced in over the existing condensate tube.
    Works great!
  • rlassrlass Member Posts: 2
    Hello all. I have had an very frustrating experience with my T&C 2000. The check engine light will go on and every time I take it to the dealer they tell me they fixed it and in a matter of less than a day it is on again.

    I have taken it in 5 times. Currently they have had my car for coming on three weeks and still cannot find the problem. They are paying for my rental however.

    Finally I told the service manager that if he can not fix it I would like Chrysler to remedy the problem with a buy back. They called me back and said that they would consider giving me top dollar on my car and an amazing deal on the 2005.

    I don't know if this is legit or am I getting suckered into buying a new car. We looked at the new T & C and were impressed with the new stow away seats but it would not be my first choice.

    Any advice would be appreciated as to what my options are. The problem started when the car was under it's warranty and has been in again 6 times with out any hope of having it corrected. I am in California and the dealership is in Cerritos. Thank you again for any advice both legally and those with past experiences like mine.
  • mark_325imark_325i Member Posts: 29
    I have a 2002 T&C Ltd with OEM 16-inch chrome wheels. I plan to purchase another set of wheels to mount winter tires. I have an opportunity to purchase a set of OEM wheels but they are for a 99 T&C. Does anyone know if they are compatible -- will the 99 wheels fit the newer-body-style 02 minivan?
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