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Chrysler Town and Country EX/LX/LXi/Limited
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Comments
The reason why I switch to E85 is not to save money, but to stop supporting the mid-east countries from profiting and financing terrorism.
Peace.
Thanks again,
Ron
What model designation signifies SWB?
If I look in a list of Caravans, and I want a SWB, I look for Caravans as opposed to Grand Caravans. And there are Caravan SE's, Caravan Sports, and Caravan SXT's.
So, how can I look at a list of T & C's on Cars.com and tell from the model designation which are short wheelbase?
Best Regards,
Shipo
Would like to get your opinion: I bought my '98 T & C Lxi five months ago from my boss (I had been driving it for the past three years as a nanny). Gave me a really good discount so I don't owe anything on it. However, have spent $$$$ in repairs in the first three months of ownership. The van had 97, +++ when I bought it so it could be normal wear and tear. Recently, on a family outing, the front rocker arms broke and we had replaced for around $179. The mechanic said, they don't know the condition of the back rocker arms but the valves definitely need to be replaced and that it would cost around $1500. Would it be worth it to just get a newer used car or brand new car or (gulp) put in another major repair and keep the van, hopefully, for another three years?
The truth of the matter is that the 3.3/3.8 liter engines (I assume yours has the 3.8) are very robust with some reaching well into the 300,000 mile range with just normal maintenance. That having been said, if yours has been abused (and if what your mechanic has told you is true, it has) I might be inclined to unload it.
Of course, getting rid of it in favor of another car of unknown history is a gamble as well. If the body of your LXi is in good shape, it might well be worth fixing the engine and driving it into the dirt. Think about it this way, even if both the engine and the transmission fail tomorrow you should be able to get them both replaced for less than $4,000 (used but serviceable engine and factory reman transmission).
Were I in your shoes, I'd be inclined to have a "leak-down" compression test performed, and if that comes back good (and assuming the valves really are bad -- something I'm having a hard time believing), then I would probably have both cylinder heads pulled, reconditioned and put back on. If nothing else, I think a second opinion regarding the condition of the engine is in order here.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Again, thanks for the good advice.
The question is, "Replace it with what?" A new/rebuilt engine? Total waste of money.
With a used (but still very servicable) engine? I'm thinking that the cost should be less than half of what you were quoted.
Best Regards,
Shipo
P.S. Check my profile for my private E-Mail address if you want to discuss this any further as I'm thinking that we're getting a little off topic here. ;-)
I made an appointment with the local police who have a program for guiding folks in the installation of child safety seats (supposedly up to 90% of them have not been properly installed). They were very helpful, but could not figure out where the tether should be attached. [The lower anchors can't be attached either, but the seat belts, though not as safe or convenient, should be a reasonable substitute.]
The safety officer suggested I contact the dealer which I did. The person at the dealer had no idea and was not willing to pursue it (I had not purchased the van from them.), but he gave me the number of the Chrysler Customer Care Center which I also called. When I finally got through to a human, she was very courteous, but knew nothing about installing the seats. She read from the 2002 manual and confirmed that the anchors should be there, but could not offer further advice or information. She gave me the number of the child seat experts -- which I had assumed would be someone within Chrysler who knew something about their LATCH systems.
It turns out that she had given me a wrong number (some other agency) of the government agency who administers child restraint safety regulations. When I finally got to the right person, they were very helpful, but were not able to suggest a suitable anchor point. However, they did indicate that they would look into it and get back to me next week. I asked if they had the number of their child safety contact in Chrysler (which they did not), but promised to try to find one.
So is this a widespread problem? Or am I the only one with the missing LATCH anchor points in the third row seats?
Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. We are planning a week-long family vacation trip in two weeks..
Thanks in advance.
Roger
This is my first Chrysler van so I'm not completely familiar with all the seating options. My third seat is a bench with seating & belts for three. There is also a fold-down armrest, fwiw. Is that what you mean by a 50/50 bench?
The biggest issue is the absence of an designated tether anchor point. The owners manual indicates that there are 3 but no more than 2 should be used at once. However, the bench has only one, in the center. Naturally, we would like to seat the twins in the outboard positions.
Thanks for your advice!
The 50/50 third-row bench is two separate seats that form one bench. You can take half of the third-row bench out or fold and tumble it forward for more cargo space.
Anyhow, upon changing out that dash unit I have not had a problem...it has been 3 months without incident, now. I drive with confidence. I cringed those first few turns of the ignition...now, it is like having an old friend back. Good luck. If you want the name and number of my mechanic man, let me know, before he heads to Florida!
Merry Christmas.
Thanks
No, I am in Maine...but my mechanic who use to work for Chrysler, but retired, has a small shop he putters in and winters in Florida.
I would be happy to forward Al's info to you, if you email me at jreynold@maine.rr.com.
It was a frustrating issue for me that I struggled with for about 6 months. I brought it to the local dealership and others, but only Al got it up and running successfully.
My experience with the '96 LXI is entirely different. It came with all maintenance records, and it was clear the transmission had not yet been serviced. I changed the fluid and filter myself. Even the guy at NAPA tried to sell me the wrong stuff. MUST BE ATF+3, I insisted.
Recently it has been slow to go into gear when first starting up. It has been cold up here in MN the last couple of weeks. Wife assumed the worst ("Time for another rebuild, eh?"), but I recalled that everytime I changed the oil I would see a drop or two of tranny fluid hanging from the hoses that go to the transmission cooler under the radiator, so figured after 3 years it must have finally lost just enough to make a difference. There was never any on the garage deck. I had to drive it a bit to get fluid warm enough to measure it on the dip stick. Sure enough, it was down 1/2 a quart. Now it runs like a top.
From what I've read, the trannies in the '96 model on up are much, much better than earlier models. My wife and I love the vehicle. I'll take it in someday to cure the teeny tiny leak, but the trick is to find a reputable transmission shop where the service rep won't come at you with a "gotta rebuild it, man!" analysis.
So, yeah, if the wrong fluid is used during routine maintenance, these trannies will turn ugly on you. But if they're fed a healthy diet of ATF+3 (or now ATF+4), they run wonderfully.
Hope this helps.
How can I reset it if needed?
TIA
With warmer weather with us, I decided to take a crack at finding and tightening those rubber hoses from the transmission to the radiator per Hayneldan's post. On our '96 it turns out the best way to access the clamps is by removing both large parts of the air cleaner element housing, which isn't too difficult. Once removed you can easily see both hoses and all four connections. My advice, though, is to have a new air cleaner element on hand so you can change it at the same time.
Anyway, yes, all of the clamps needed some tightening. I'm hopeful that will take care of the minor transmission fluid leak.
Thanks for the tip!
Thanks.
LC
Thank you.
Just changed the oil and noticed that the tightened tranny cooler lines to the radiator are still doing their job. When they were tightened last March I wiped everything dry, and all connections are still dry. Thanks, again, Hayneldan. That was indeed the simple solution.