Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems
This discussion has been closed.
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Thanks.
My question: would they have replaced the timing belt when they changed the engine? Thanks.
Joe
I have a 99 Quest and had the same problem with my battery. It would die every time we went camping. The dealer insisted we were not using the car properly, and repeatedly cleaned the contacts, checked the levels etc. However, after talking them into giving us a new battery it was discovered that the old one was installed improperly. Can't tell you the exact details but it was a simple matter to fix.
Take it to someone who knows how to install a battery (not the same dealer).
I hope this solves your problem.
Revka
Host
Hatchbacks & Wagons Boards
No problems in the month or 2 that I have had the readio back, and a heck of a lot cheaper than a new one, or probably a used one if you could find one at a wrecking yard.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
I'm interested in getting one but dealers keep telling me I would have to go through Nissan. Around 300 bucks for a CD through Nissan?? Ouch! I have been unable to find a cheap one from Haynes, so I'm stuck with a bad solenoid on the passenger side door lock and a sticky window motor on the driver side.
Thanks for any inputs.
Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
I have heard that Haynes has updated their Villager/Quest manual for the 99+ model years. You might want to check their web page. Their manuals are actually much more useful to the amateur mechanic than the factory manuals (IMO). Good luck.
Dave
Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
We just bought a 99 Nissan Quest SE with 55,000 miles. Besides being a little high in mileage, its in excellent condition, even has a TV/VCR..
It has the 16in wheels and a 'suspension tuned for improved handling response' (according to a web site I found).
The tires look good, no sign of excessive wear, ride is smooth except when going over bumps (especially bridges, where there are continuous, regular dips). It tends to bounce a lot. Doesn't seem to affect the steering though.
I can stand on the back bumper and rock the whole van from side to side, although it does stop afer I stop pretty quickly.
Is this normal, or should I have the dealer look at it (I have a 60 day warranty from the dealer, they are already fixing the tach.)
J-P
I have a nissan quest GXE 99 with 50k. Recently, when I pushed accel, some strange noise ? especially air conditional was on. Something like vibrating????please give an advice.
Thanks.
Shohjwh, can you give us more details? What speed were you going? Have you checked your tires for proper pressure?
Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
I don't know where our problem solvers are these days - seems like the recent posters just have problems. Help!
Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
Now, our front tires need to be replaced, and we have a low speed shimmy. Dealer just fixed the high speed shimmy by balancing and rotating the tires. Question - should I get Michelins, or is there another tire that might help. As the shimmy seems to be a common problem, has anyone gotten Mercury/Nissan to fess up and fix this problem?
Thanks.
Any suggestion for next step checking please? Where could be the problem?
Thanks.
-Kent
They were recommended through comments that I saw on the tirerack.com website.
Was the resistor pack replacement a do-it-yourself repair, or did you take it in? Is it hard to get to?
Let me know. Thanks!
Dave
Mine looks like someone took a lighter to it. Definetly blown. Just got a relpacement (from a Mercury dealer, Nissan dealers didn't have it in stock) at lunch and will replace it tonight. $14.88 US + tax.
Dave
Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
I have read alot the past couple of months on this board but this is my first post to it.
We bought a used '99 Villager 3 months ago with
+/- 32K miles on it. Due to my wife job we put another 8K on it during this time. Luckily this slowed down back to 'normal' mileage .
We had basically no problems with the Van and are
enjoying it very much.
1. Tires: The left front tire (General) had high speed shimming. I replaced the front tires with Yokohama Avid Touring like an previous poster mentioned. I read some good reviews about it on
tirerack.com. If they hold up good I will replace the rear ones with them as well. After about 200mi I think they have a quieter ride than the Generals. I have not yet tested the wet traction to comment on that.
2. We also had the sticky gas pedal problem, but I took care of it for now with instructions on this board. (Thanks!) I did not take apart the entire air intake assembly to do a very good job but it worked for now. When it acts up again and I have more time I will do a proper job.
Now for my questions:
1. I would like to install an add-on alarm to the existing factory keyless entry system, either Ford/Mercury or an aftermarket product. With limited resources on the net I have found the following: Ford part #: F3AZ-19A361-C, F3AZ-19A361-D, Mercury part #: F7AZ-19A361-AA. The only aftermarket add-on system that I could found was a Hornet 700T which uses the existing remotes.
My Questions: Can anybody shed some light for me on the difference in the part numbers for Ford/Mercury. The Mercury Dealer told me that the first two will not work on the Villager. To me it seems that the only difference between them all is the features and price. I just want a basic alarm system. The Hornet 700 T will require professional installation. I was hoping to buy a Ford add-on and just plug it into the existing system.
2. The driver side outside mirror are vibrating a little bit at Highway speeds. Can it be that there's only a loose screw of some sort that just needs tightening. I have no idea how to accomplish this.
Any input from the gurus?
Thanks,
Charel
The mirror... If you can find a fix, let me know! I haven't got up enough determination to take mine apart, they do vibrate quite a bit on the highway. Others however have no problems with theirs. One time I had my van in for service while it was still under wrranty, I checked all the new vans they had on the lot and they were loose too.
Dave
Mine doesn't vibrate, so maybe you should drop a canoe on yours too!
Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
I can live without an alarm system on our
Villager and the vibration on the mirror is not that bad.
Thanks,
Charel
You might want to check all of the vacuum connections. The wife's 97 Quest triggered the "check engine" light when one of the lines from the EGR valve lost a rubber connection. I was pulling my hair out because the EGR tested good, but wasn't working properly and the loose connection was behind and below the line of sight. Finally after I put my hand back there and found it, I was able to reconnect with a short portion of vacuum hose and it works great now.
A more recent issue for us has been the front end rattle we got after taking a particularly brutal highway trip. The NTB guys diagnosed it as a collapsed strut mount so I've just finished replacing the mount and bearing.
Good luck with the "check engine" light issue.
Craig
You may want to check the tension on the window latches for the sliding doors. I know that my sliding door glass worked itself loose after only a few months of ownership (2001 Quest SE).
Now I need help on the questions bellow.
1. What is the correct vacuum (in InHg) at each stage?
2. How to check EGR solenoid based on the air pass?
3. Since EGR valve is ok, how about EGR control backpressure transducer valve (EGRC-BPT)?
By the way, code 34 was also detected. It is knock sensor fault. Are they related?
Thank you all in advance.
-Kent
RSWAMI and others, first of all thanks for advice about mileage.. i dont get more than 18mpg.. and about speed, i live in LA, gotta speed up just to keep up with the traffic..
=========
Now about the Villager part:I tried to replace the headlamp on my recently bought 96 villager and the headlamp retainer ring broke the locking part at a very little pressure.. tried every shop around, kragen, pepboys,autozone No luck.. went to the nearby ford dealer and faced the worst auto service so far, they didn't have it and wer too fussy about ordering such a small part (can u beleive it?).. Any idea where can i get it?
Thanks
Craig
Thanks again. The problem has been solved after I pinpoited the proble should be around EGRC-BPT. A broken tube was found in a hidden corner below EGRC-BPT valve.
Now, it is time to work on knock sensor.
-Kent
That's great! I'm sorry I didn't do a better job of explaining because on the wife's 97 Quest the rubber connector was fried on the line/tube that connected the EGRC-BPT to the EGR valve. The line/tube on the 97 is about impossible to see, but exits the bottom of the EGRC-BPT and runs to the lower part of the EGR. It wasn't until it couldn't be anything else and I was about to take off the EGRC-BPT that I discovered the missing link.
Any chance your master cylinder is bad? If you did the wheels and bled the brake lines it should be solid. We have about the same mileage at 64,000, did the brakes earlier this year with some premium pads and turned rotors and ours works great. I've been told that some of the pads can be softer than others, but I don't have any experience there because we always get the harder pads and haven't been disappoined.
I have a 1996 Mercury Villager. Since 35k miles I have been experiencing engine overheating just enough to cut off the A/C compressor. This overheating only occurs in high tempatures of 96 degrees or better. I have had the following repairs in an attempt to fix.
1. changed thermostat
2. flushed radiator numerous times
3. replaced water pump
4. replaced egr valve
5. replaced high pressure switch on a/c
6. replaced evaporator on a/c
7. reprogrammed computer
8. repaired leak in a/c hose (not sure if really leaking or just dealer getting desperate)
Has anyone had this problem and or can anyone make suggestions on possible fix.
It seems that when the engine gets hot the throttle seems hesitant and the transmission slams into second pretty hard. This only occurs just before the compressor cuts off and the electronic tempature guage goes up one or two notches (digital dash)
Any assistance will be appreciated.