Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems

revka · June 2003

Although, I never had that problem with my Quests (previous 99 & current 2002), I thought I'd mention that our other vehicle (different make) recently had a similar problem with the speedometer needle jumping around.

It turned out to be a bad cruise control silenoid. Not sure if your problem is related to this..., but thought I'd share that information, fwiw. How's your cruise control working?

Have you tried plugging your vehicle (model/year) into Edmunds' Maintenance Guide? You can check for TSBs that might be related to your problem.... Good luck.

Revka
Host of Hatchbacks & Wagons Boards

rabaul · June 2003

I, too, have joined the ranks of those with a power window problem on the '99. Can anyone provide instructions on how to access and replace the switch/switch panel? And/or reference to the page(s) number in the service manual----perhaps I can convince the dealer parts dept. to make me a copy.

mn_pat · June 2003

31k miles, We just had the #2 injector replaced on our van. Luckily, the van was delievered to its original owner on 9-27-01, so it was covered under warranty. Is it common to have injectors replaced? I hope this helps the mileage, over Memorial weekend we got 17mpg.

johnwng · June 2003

Thanks Revka for your message. For the past few trips (short/local), the speedometer is working normally, but I am almost certain the jumping thing will come back. Haven't used the cruise control for quite some time. Will check that out to see if related.

johnwng · June 2003

Hi Revka, just as you mentioned, the Cruise Control my Quest is not working either. Is there anything a layman can do before going to the dealer?

revka · June 2003

Hi johnwng - The cruise control is comprised of several components; so without a proper diagnosis, I'd be hesitant to recommend replacing anything... as it would be hit or miss. Not to mention, it could be just a loose connection.

Should mention with my 99 Quest, when I had my wiper control switch replaced on tsb, the cruise control accidently got disconnected. They were able to re-connect it in a matter of minutes, with no parts needing replaced.

So now I have to ask, was your wiper switch ever replaced on tsb, or have you had any other work work done, in or around your steering wheel..., that could have caused your cruise to be disconnected? If so, you may want to address this with your dealer service.

One more thing: Sometimes a burned out brake light can cause your cruise to not connect, so check your brake lights.

"Is there anything a layman can do before going to the dealer?"

I don't work on my own vehicles, other than check my oil and tires. However, I do use resources such as Edmunds' Maintenance Guide and Alldata to research problems, I suppose for my own peace of mind, before taking the car to the dealer.

With Alldata, you have to pay for an annual fee, but they also offer more details, as well as do it yourself automotive diagnostic & repair information. At the very least, you can look up the manufacter (recommended) parts and labor costs... to compare with what the dealer wants to charge.

Btw, this Edmunds' article talks a little about alldata and will also link you to their website.

You can also purchase Nissan's technical service manuals or online subsriptions through their website. I've noticed their costs are considerably higher than alldata, although they could be offering more information. I'm not sure.

Just curious if anyone has purchased Nissan's service manual or online service?

Anyway, hope this is helpful. Others here may have more to offer on what they think may be causing your cruise control and speedometer needle problem, so be sure to check back. ;-)

Revka
Host
Hatchbacks & Wagons Boards

davidj1974 · June 2003

Hello Nissan Quest owners,

I own a '99 SE purchased new. It has 70k miles w/o any big problems...except the radio display is now intermittent. Not the radio lights on the buttons but the bright display showing the stations and time. It'll fade out and on occasion comes back on. I don't have an extended warranty and haven't called the dealer yet because I'm sure it'll be expensive. Has anyone had this problem and know of a fix. Thank you, Dave.

stever · June 2003

steve_ Dec 13, 2002 11:19pm

Steve, Host

stickguy · June 2003

Wow, I feel like a celebrity.

stever · June 2003

You're eminently quotable!

Steve, Host

som1178 · July 2003

Last two weeks, my 95 Mercury Villager (79,000 miles) is displaying Check Engine Light on. This typically happens when I am driving up a mild uphill slope at highway speed (above 55 mph). At times the light disappears at the end of the slope, at other times the light continues to display for a little while. This has never happened in city driving, or on level highways. I got a mechanic look under the hood. The EGR/BPT hose is fine. Fueld pressure pump, gas cap, crankshaft, timing belts are okay (these are the usual suspects). Before heading to the dealer, is there anything else that I could look into ? Does the fact that this light shows up only on uphill at highway speed give any clues ?

bklovett · July 2003

Any body else have this problem? It's 102 outside, and I turn on the A/C. It immediately blows hot. I don't mean like no freon hot, I mean the HEATER is on HOT. I start to fool with the temp. control, turning it down, and the blower slows (as if the heater is on in winter, and it blows less as you set the thermostat down). When I turn the temp. control up, it blows harder. This thing actually is controlling the heater. No matter what I do, I can't get the A/C to switch on. The little green light by the A/C button is on, I cn even hear the compressor kick in, but the heater continues to run. Am I nuts?

stever · July 2003

Rabaul, any luck with yours? Turns out the switch is easy to get at - just one screw will let you take the bezel out with switches attached.

My driver's side switch is balking at going up. If I hold it in the up position for ~30 seconds or more, it will finally kick in. I can get the cover off the switch box, and there's no obvious corrosion on the circuit board on top, but I haven't figured out how to remove the switch caps to check them or the underside of the circuit board. Continuity to the motor seems fine, so I'm pretty sure it's the switch.

Steve, Host

stever · July 2003

Too many unanswered questions in here lately - where did our wrench turners go?

Steve, Host

wood14 · July 2003

Bummer! Driving home a few days ago, traveling on a too-busy toll road, the oil light started to come on and off intermittently. It was too dangerous to stop, no pull-offs, after dark, etc. So I drove 10 miles to next exit. No verdict from the mechanic yet but obviously serious damage due to the noise and lack of oil. 110K miles, husband checks oil religiously, van is solid, no serious maintenance issues up to now. purchased used w/ 35K, minor issues with dash lights, a/c lines, brakes sticking. Anybody had similar experience?? Will know more tomorrow... sign me "Wish I'd stopped"!

stever · July 2003

Mechanical problems in the dark aren't fun for anyone, and stopping on the side of a freeway in the dark wouldn't have been too safe anyway, so I don't blame you a bit. Could be the oil leak is related to the engine problem anyway and stopping immediately may not have made any difference (a good line to try on hubby at least <g>). Hope it's fixable cheaply enough.

Back to the window, I pulled the switch out and looked at it. It's not something you can disassemble without breaking the housing. So I put it back together and tried to listen to the relay clicking, etc. Sure enough, I could hear some action around the motor area when I'd try to raise the window. Pushing gently outward on the window helped, so now I'm thinking the tracks are just filthy.

I sprayed some lubricating oil along the edge of the window (too lazy to take the door panel off again just yet) and helped it up and down a few times, and it seems a bit better. So maybe that'll help for a while.

Steve, Host

shohjwh · July 2003

Hi, guys.
I have a Nissan quest 1999 ~65000 mile. Couple of days ago, I found rear air condition did not work, just air even front air condition is no problem. It's weird. Please help me. Thanks in advance.

stever · July 2003

If no air blowing out, check this message:

dhoff Oct 14, 2002 8:12pm

Steve, Host

shohjwh · July 2003

air is blowing out with hot air(this is Texas. ^.^)
Front air is cool but still rear is just air blowing even though running 30 mins.

shohjwh

stever · July 2003

Could be different things I guess - low refrigerant charge, bad module or controller somewhere, etc.

Anyone?

Steve, Host

revka · July 2003

From Edmunds' Maintenance Guide, I found a couple (NHTSA) technical service bulletins regarding the a/c for a 99 Quest. Do these look similar to your problem?

Component Description:
17. AIR CONDITIONER NHTSA Number: 629172
Bulletin Number: NTB02009
Bulletin Date: FEB 2002

Vehicle: 1999 Nissan Quest
Summary:
SOME VEHICLES MAY EXHIBIT FRONT AIR CONDITIONER OUTLETS BLOWING COLD AIR, BUT REAR A/C OUTLETS BLOWING WARM AIR. *TT

Component Description:
18. AIR CONDITIONER NHTSA Number: 630795
Bulletin Number: NTB02009A
Bulletin Date: MAR 2002

Vehicle: 1999 Nissan Quest
Summary:
SUBJECT REGARDING REAR A/C OUTLETS BLOW WARM AIR. *YD

------------------------------------------------------------------ ---

The second tsb may be an update on the first one. Edmunds' Maintenance Guide only offers a summary of the TSB. For information on how to get the complete Technical Service Bulletin, check out this article from Edmunds: You, Your Vehicle and the Technical Service Bulletin. On a couple of occasions, I've given my dealer service the TSB number/summary and they've been able to access the complete manufacturer tsb... and follow up. Hope this is helpful. Please keep us posted on your situation.

Revka
Host
Hatchbacks & Wagons Boards

stever · July 2003

Thanks Revka! I keep forgetting to check on the TSBs.

When are you going to give us an update on your Quest over in the Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager board? You're overdue :-)

Steve, Host

shohjwh · July 2003

Hi, guys. Thanks.
Now i'm gonna get full TSB and fix problem.
I will let you know what it was.
Thanks.
shoh

som1178 · July 2003

I had the Mercury Dealer do the diagnostics. He says its sending a code which indicates bad O2 sensor. I found a posting on Edmunds.com where someone was told the exact same thing by his dealer, he got the O2 sensor repaired for $200, the light was back on after a few days. The dealer would not refund the replacement O2 sensor, nor would he guarantee this will solve the problem. He says there is no way to independently test the O2 sensor. What should I do? Is there any harm in running the van under such condition? I have passed inspection before the problem occurred (it will be two more years before the next inspection is due), and my gas mileage has not deteriorated.

shohjwh · July 2003

Hi, guys.
I inspected my car and they charged ~$700 to fix. I asked about TSB and they said TSB is just help to find out problem, even though it describe the same problem. It's not recall and they don't provide VIN so, I have to pay. -.-;
Is there any way to save my money?\
Thanks.
shoh

stever · July 2003

That's a typical dealer price for replacing the rear sensor - the part itself costs around $60. You may find an independent mechanic to do the work for less money.

The van should generally run better with a new sensor(s) (assuming the diagnosis is correct).

Steve, Host

stever · July 2003

"The best thing about finding a TSB that seems to cover a persistent problem in your vehicle is that dealerships will make the repair for free, provided that

Your vehicle is under warranty;

Your service advisor and/or technicians are able to confirm that the problem exists."

You, Your Vehicle and the Technical Service Bulletin (TSB)

Steve, Host

activex111 · August 2003

Hi,
The rear wiper on my '96 villager stopped working. The washer fliud works but the wiper does not. I checked the fuse and it is fine. I checked the motor at the mechanic and it seems fine too, Can someone please post their experience if they solved such a problem, such as what and where to look etc... thanks...

stever · August 2003

Still struggling with that wiper, Activex111?

My guess is that some gears are stripped. That would explain why the motor sounds like it's working, but you're getting no action.

Maybe you could find another motor in a junkyard and swap it out to test, and maybe return it if that doesn't fix it.

Steve, Host

johnwng · August 2003

Have been, for a few months, wiggling my Quest's headlight wires to fix the headlight problem. Got very tired of doing this but wouldn't like to spend over $200 to replace the whole assembly by dealer. Just found out Autozone has a replacement socket for Quest. Only $5 each. It was also rather easy to replace it. Basically cut off the bad socket and connect the three wires. Took me only 10-15 minutes. Just wanted to share this with everybody.

hywayman · August 2003

I have a '99 Villager Escape where the cruise control doesn't work. A few seconds after turning it on or trying to use one of the control buttons the "Cruise" light starts flashing. Nothing else happens. Any ideas?

stever · August 2003

Try going to an auto parts store and see if there are any codes in the OBDII system. Sometimes that can trigger stuff. And I've read that a bad or shorted out rear brake light can affect the cruise. Sounds odd, but maybe the wiring is related or something.

My power window switch (or window guide) continues to act up and my AC button doesn't always work the first time now either. Maybe if I drove the van through a pool full of hot solder these gremlins would go away.

On the bright side, the chattering actuators in my sliders haven't complained for a couple of years now.

Steve, Host

chebykin · August 2003

I got the following problem with my Villager (1997, 146K miles).
Time to time, when pressing gas pedal on the stop light, the acceleration is very weak.
(I heard word "hesitation" - could it be used to describe this?)
I need to release pedal and press it once again to make it work.
Then, while driving 40-50 mph if I am trying to push gas pedal slightly (let's say to go up hill),
the engine reacts like I am pressing gas pedal intermittently - half second on, half second off.
To cure this I release the gas pedal and press it with more energy.
Then, after 4-5 such strange reactions, the engine stopped to respond to gas pedal at all and stalled. I waited 1-2 minutes and was able to start it again.
At that time I had 1/4 of fuel, air conditioner was on.
After I fill gas tank, I cannot reproduce this problem again.

A year ago I had similar problem, at that time Check Engine light went on.
Servicemen checked fuel pump, the pressure was within requirements.
Based on their experience with Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager, they suggested
to replace fuel injectors. They replaced 5 of 6 fuel injectors, and I had no problems with engine since then.
However, now I got it again.
Do you know what could cause this problem?
Fuel injector (I still got one old or maybe the replaced injectors appears not so good)
or fuel pump is dying, or something else?

stever · August 2003

Replaced your O2 sensors lately? They degrade over time, and you're up there in miles. Maybe have the mass airflow sensor checked too.

Another suggestion is to clean or replace the distributor cap (link)

Steve, Host

robbk6 · August 2003

Glad I could help out.

activex111 · August 2003

Hi, the A/c on my 96 Villager is not cooling enough particularly at lower speeds during hotter time of the day(in the evenings it is OK).. At speeds higher than 55mph, it cools OK, still not very good .. There are no leaks.. most likely the refrigernt is low.. is there a way o add the refrigerant (R134?) on our own? i am no expert on this so any feedback is appreciated... Thanks,

Gutsy · September 2003

Hello,
My passenger window on my 2000 Villager estate just quit on me. Of course the window is "down" and won't go up! It was working a little the other day when I fiddled with the switch and the window was intching up once in a while... now it's not working at all.

Anyway ... I saw the posts here about the electrical problem issues with the door switches and the window switches going bad, but did anyone here have the same problem only to learn it was a "relay" instead of the switch or motor? I called the dealer and they want $78 just to tell me what it could be... and around $70 for the entire switch housing (6 switches) if it's the switches. Also, I can't return the switches for a refund if I use them, so I thought it "may" be the relay. Anyone here who may have had a similar problem they wish to share?

Also, you can place me among the ranks of those with "throttle body"/pedal sticking problems. It just started this week and now the window quit on me at the same time! ... When it rains it pours!

Thanks in advance fr any advise.

stever · September 2003

My driver's side window ('99 Quest) is doing the same thing but still manages to go up. I had the window motor replaced under warranty a couple of years ago when I complained of it being slow. I'm not convinced mine is related to the switches, but I guess I'll wait until below freezing weather to find out, since with my luck, that's when it'll totally die.

One member reported that he was able to buy a switch housing with the understanding that he could return it if that didn't fix the problem. There's only two connections to attach when you swap out the switch housing, so it would be fast to check if you could get your hands on a known good one.

I haven't checked a salvage yard, but that's another possibility. For what the dealer charges, you may be able to buy an entire door - parts is parts!

If you pop the interior door panel off and peel the plastic dust cover back, you should be able to reach through one of the holes in the sheet metal and help the window back up. That could buy you some looking around time.

Please let us know the results.

Steve, Host

Gutsy · September 2003

Hi Steve,

THanks for your reply to my post. I think I'll do just that ... and see if I can get a used set of switches first. My neighbo2 2 blocks away owns a local body shop. I think I'll ask him to see if he can find a vilager door with the switches.

I'll let you now what happens. Thanks again!

Gutsy · September 2003

Steve,

Just wanted to let you know that the window switch was bad afterall on my 2000 Villager Estate. I couldn't find a used Villager in the junk yard so I went with my instincts ... I purchased the switch assembly at $72 ... too a chance ... and it worked! :-)

Take care
Dave

stever · September 2003

That's great. Mine's working better; I think it likes the cooler weather.

Steve, Host

rbudn83510 · September 2003

hi,
i have a 1999 villager estate.....40,000 miles. I have read quite often about peoples tach/speedo stopping to work. I have yet to read anywhere as to how everyone went about to get it fixed and the cost. First my tach went out...than a few months later the speedo stopped working....and when the speedo doesnt work...my cruise control doesnt work. Any ideas/suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I hate to think how much the dealer might want to fix this!!

coquis · September 2003

Hello,
My 97 Quest GXE has a litle bit over 72,000 miles, and I haven't changed the timing belt on it yet. Am I taking a big chance here? Dealers in the South Florida area charge around $800-900 to change it along with water pump, belt tensioner, other belts,etc. Now, I bought the Mercury Villager & Nissan Quest Haynes repair manual. It guides you throught the whole process of doing this work youself.Is this a too complicated job for a mechanically-inclined person to do? Can I keep on driving without changing for a while longer? And also when it idles, it shakes a liitle. Any advise, please & thanks a lot!

johnwng · September 2003

Hi rbdn83510, my Quest had a similar problem at about the same mileage (40K) a couple of months ago. We replaced the speed sensor, and so far all is fine. The total cost is a bit less than $200. Good luck.

cduong · September 2003

I have a 94 Mercury Villager van and a local shop diagnosed it and told me that the knock sensor is inoperative. Does anyone have any past experience with this and total costs (part+labor) to fix it? Thanks

stever · September 2003

Cduong, a discussion search in here turns up 16 hits. The part runs around $230 and to have the dealer replace it cost one member $700.

Check out the thread starting with post # 1220 too.

Steve, Host

cduong · September 2003

"The part runs around $230 and to have the dealer replace it cost one member $700 "

Steve... Thanks. All I can say is WOW. My local dealer told me that labor is $120 ($80/hr x 1.5 hrs) plus part. $700 is a rip-off from dealer.

cduong · September 2003

I talked to a local auto service (who replaced my throttle positioning sensor)and he said that the function of a knock sensor is to advance or retard timing to compensate for the knock. IF a sensor is "dead" then it won't do that BUT it won't damage your engine either, you may experience some knocking if you climb up a hill, BUT it won't damage engine. Some suggests to use higher octane if knock sensor is not operational. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.

stever · September 2003

Running premium is what post 1220 suggested.

Glad to hear that replacement is cheaper than what my search suggested. What was your part cost estimate?

Steve, Host

jpkiwi · September 2003

I noticed that my a/c has not been working very well. I was about to top up with r134 when I noticed that the compressor kicks in, the a/c runs for about 5 seconds, then it kicks out again. I can see the fan spped up and slow down every time the compressor kicks in. The engine is not overheating, so I'm pretty sure the compressor isn't kicking off because of overheating.

Any ideas? Should I add some compressor oil, see if that helps. I read that if its low on coolant (low pressure) this can make the compressor kick off.
Thanks
J-P

Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems

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