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Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems
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Buy yourself some R134 and a recharge kit (just a hose with special fittings). The Haines manual has a good description of what to do. You will need a paper clip to bypass the cutoff switch to keep the compressor running while you charge it. The can is empty when it doesn't feel ice cold anymore - you can check the level by finding out where the can is really cold. It took about 1/2 hour to put one can in.
My A/C still isn't great when idling, but its now OK as long as we are moving. Probably something to do with the cooling fan not creating enough pressure keep the compressor on, not really sure...
Thanks
I wouldn't tackle that job, but oil changes and front disc pads are about all I do tackle.
Steve, Host
I am buying a 97 villager GS with 32500 miles on it from a lady who drove it just around town. It seems to be in great shape cept for the brakes. Is there anything else that I should check or replace on this vehicle that is 6 years old but only has 32k miles on it? i.e. shocks, etc. Any suggestions would be grateful.
Thanks in advance.
Shocks should wear as a function of miles, so they should still be good for a while.
Enjoy your new Villager.
I just found that the 2000 Quest was "recalled" for two problems.
How do i check if my Quest has been repaired/fixed? I am unable to reach the prevoius owner. Does Nissan keep a database? If yes, can i call Nissan directly? Thanks!
You should be able to get the local Nissan dealer to plug the VIN into the computer in the service department and get recall info (and maybe other service records) too.
I think Carfax also provides this info for most cars. It would have been better to get a Carfax before buying the van though :-)
Steve, Host
steve_ Jul 22, 2003 11:58am
From memory:
There's one screw at the bottom of the switch housing covered with a plastic tab. Remove that and jiggle the switch housing out. There will be two wire harnesses connected to two switch gizmos. One is for the windows and the other for the power locks. The wiring disconnects at the junctions by pressing on the tabs, and they only fit one way, so you're pretty save unplugging them.
The switches themselves are screwed into the plastic housing. I'm not sure what you get from the parts store, so you may wind up with either a switch to screw in or a whole new housing with switches attached.
I hear that people are paying around $70 US for replacements from the dealer. You may want to try an auto salvage yard.
You also may want to check on return policies before purchase, since the problem may be the window motor.
Troubleshooting may also be affected by which window isn't working.
Corrections/amplifications appreciated! (you out there Rabaul?)
Steve, Host
"Just replaced the switch (part number
25401-7b12---dealer list about $69.) and found the
process a "piece of cake", taking no more than a
minute or two. Balky close problem solved. It's one
piece that includes both window switches plus the door
lock and window operation lock-out switches. One
exterior Phillips screw (under a plastic cap) to
remove the exposed driver's-side switch assembly (no
need to remove door panel) and 4 screws on the
underside to free the switch. Two detachable plugs
and you're home free. All auto electronics should be
this simple (but I imagine the book rate is probably
an hour)."
I support your suggestion to try to find it used---but only at a cost of a few dollars, since this seems to be a common problem area that will likely eventually affect all Quests. I got the dealer parts dept. to agree to take it back (not normally done on electronic parts, as you know) if the replacement didn't solve the issue. Just bring a Phillips screwdriver and make the quick change/test right at the dealership. It's a real pleasure to drive without the concern that "This could finally be the time it doesn't ever close".
Steve, Host
Secondly - My ABS was acting up. It would kick in really badly on wet pavement and on steep hills - after you came to a complete stop, the warning light would come on. After about 3 weeks of these annoying and scary incidents, the ABS just stopped working and now the light is on permanently. The mechanic did check the brakes about a week before all this happened when I took it in for regular maintenance. Do you think he damaged the sensors? Does anyone know how much this would be to get replaced? My dash is brighter than the fourth of July! I would appreciate any responses!
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Steve, Host
Any suggestions or part numbers would be appreciated. Thank you.
The Firestones aren't much to look at as their sidewalls are plain, but the transformation of the vehicle has been positive. The SE has firmer shocks and thicker antiroll bars than the stock Quest. I figured the vehicle didn't need touring tires to maintain its sporty feel so I went with some traditional all season units. Immediately, the van feels softer, less harsh over expansion strips and larger bumps. Road noise has also been reduced.
Now, if I can just keep the things round I'll be a satisfied customer.
I was driving my 96 villager to Sequoia park on thanksgiving when suddenly my steering wheel jammed which i thought was because of a flat tire but checked and found that tires were fine so i guessed that probably the steering motor is out.. within 15 min my engine stalled and i realised that temp is shooting to highest.. i was fortunate to find a mechanic few miles away who found out that my Tesioner pulley running my power steering motor and my water coolant pump was "missing".. hard to imagine that it just fell off like that.. since the people there could not find the replacement part they got a temporary smooth pulley and used it with some extra washers.. they also tried to take out the idler pulley which runs the a/c w/o knowing that the tensioner pulley is not the same ..arghhh! but finally i was able to get on the road again using that temporary pulley and minus my a/c running (luckily it was cold)... Has anyone had the pulley falling off exprience?
Now i need to change BOTH the pulleys and put the right ones in? is it simple job if i just get the pulleys myself from the dealer?
I'm the original owner of a '99 Quest SE with 78,000 miles. I've had good luck with this van but it's been developing problems lately and I'm wondering if other Quest owners are experiencing the same.
1. Radio display is intermittent but usually out completely. No time or radio stations displayed. It has recently stayed on for two days but now it's off again.
2. Power driver's window just started acted up by not wanting to go up. Have to keep pulling on the switch.
3. Power locks have a spinning sound while locking or unlocking.
Has anyone experienced these problems and know what the cost might be for repair? I'm considering replacing this vehicle as I'm disappointed given it's only 4 yrs old. I think Ford is to blame since they had a hand in building this vehicle. I found that out after I took delivery. Thanks in advance for any help.
the radio display problem is some lose connections that need to be re-soldered. A quality radio shop can handle it, and it will probably cost about $100-$200, depending on how expensive it is where you live. Much cheaper than a new head unit however, and it isn't easy to go aftermarket in this case.
The power window switch is also relatively common. The switch assembly probably needs to be replaced. It is an easy process (s/b DIY if you are handy), but you can have a dealer do it for about $120 IIRC ($80 for the part, 1/2 or so labor).
I have no issue with the power locks, but if they still function normally, maybe you can just live with the noise?
Your van might be only 4 years old (probably closer to 5 by now), but 78K is a lot of miles in that time, and these are relatively minor issues that can happen with any car
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
I lubed the edges of my windows with some silicon spray and that has helped keep the power windows working. One of my door actuators was replaced under warranty and they haven't chattered in a long time.
I like to blame Ford for the gremlins, but the switches (and probably the circuit boards that fail) come from various suppliers.
Steve, Host
Most of the major retailers do free installation for players over $100.
Steve, Host
For more info on the radio display problem, check out:
http://www.shareamemory.com/radio/index.htm
Dave
Maybe try going to a parts store like AutoZone and get them to read the codes and interpret them too - many of the parts stores will do that for free.
You're 12,000 miles ahead of me Dave!
Steve, Host
Our Quest had been pretty problem free, until a couple of weeks ago. It is in getting new cv boots, new rear bearings, and three new motor mounts (one was totally ripped, one crushed, the third one held everything together).
Overall it has been a very good and reliable vehicle.
Also, for the past year, when the oil life reaches approx 2500 miles (6 months), a loud valve knock develops, the "Check Engine" light comes on and performance (plus gas milage) is significantly degraded. I suspect that there's something wrong with the engine but the wife thinks that we don't change the oil enough. Some thoughts on this problem would be greatly appreciated.
Could this be a heater core? Seems like the carpet would be wet if it was related to the core. Any ideas or experience with a coolant odor in this area?
Vehicle has been pretty trouble free up to this point.
The last time I took it to the Dealer they said they couldn't find the leak but they did put a dye in the coolant. Well, that was the trick! I took the car back to the Dealer just before Christmas and they found that the Throttle Body was leaking into the intake manifold.
I've read a lot of posts about sticking/dirty Throttle Bodies but never anything about coolant leaks. If anyone out there has a small coolant leak that they can track down take a hard look at your Throttle Body...
Good Luck
I thought I'd pass along some information on my front brakes. I have a 2000 Villager with 34,000 miles. I've actually have gone through 4 sets of front brakes and a pair of rotors!. I'm an ASE mechanic so I know what I'm doing when it comes to brake replacement but I couldn't understand why my brakes were wearing out so soon.
Everything was checked out to include the proportioning valve. Well, as it turned out Ford/Nissan had made a change to the friction material they use on the second generation Villagers/Quests. The brake pads I was purchasing from my local parts store still had the old style material so I continued to experience excessive wear and noise. I'm not one for buying parts from the Dealer but that was the only way I was able to fix the problem. As soon as I installed the Dealer pads the noise went away and I still have 95% of the pad left after 6,500 miles.
Thanks for the reply.
We tried to clean it.
Oh, well...
We couldn't remove the air filter.
(That is first step, right?)
We couldn't open the box...
We fond TWO clamps, where are other twos?
We will bring the car to the mechanic ...
Anyone knows how much is reasonable charge for this?
we will have turn-up same time.
For tune-up, he will charges $250-300.
2000 quest se
58000 miles
There are three clamps on the air filter, one on top and two on the bottom.
That said, the throttle body is another foot towards the center of the engine compartment. Look for the 2 cables that end in a semi-circle gizmo downstream of the air filter box stuff. That's connected to the throttle air plate or whatever it's called.
You'll see a radiator type clamp near the cables - loosen that and pull the hose back to get access to the throttle plate and all the carbon that needs to be cleaned out.
If you can't get the hose back far enough, then you may need to unclamp the air filter box and finagle it out of the way.
It sounds harder than it is, and there's probably a better description in here that you could find with a Discussion Search.
Steve, Host
Bottom line - I am applying presurre to the dealership I bought it from to do a buy-back by writing essages on my van windows,
"Don't Buy a Ford & Don't Trust **** Dealership! Beep At Me and I'll Tell You Why!"
If they do beep me, I hand them a nicely printed out sheet explaining in detail my situation. I am also hitting all the internet consumer sites telling my story. Last I heard the two service managers involved were pressuring the dearlership owner to do something cause they are tired of seeing me in person and getting calls. THey haven't seen the message van yet, but I am sure when they do that will make their drop in sales and service more understandable. Especially in such a small community as we are, 18,000. I'll let ya'll know how it turns out.
fyi, pre-'04 Quests were built (mostly) with drivetrains shipped over from Japan to Ohio, where the parts (including sheetmetal from TN) were assembled by Ford employees.
Steve, Host
"Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager Problems"
I figured that included my problem. If not can you suggest another thread that is more appropriate?
I highly doubt your smear campaign against the dealership will help and quite honestly will only hurt your case. You are not the first unhappy customer and Ican guarantee you won't be the last. As my foks once told me, you can get more with honey then with vinegar.
Since the Nissan folks are supposingly familar with this repair, why not take it to a Nissan dealership to get it fixed esp. since you have warranty. If the warranty is only good at this dealership, talk to the service manager and see if they can arrange some sort of agreement with a Nissan dealership to get this van fixed.
I wouldn't hold your breath waiting for a buy-back considering you ahve had the van for over a year. Yes they have had t put 4 trannies in it but I don't think there are lemon law rules pertaining to used cars esp. with over 60k miles. I could be wrong.
Good luck with your van
Might be worth a try to have the dealer replace that, it's a lot easier and less expensive than a transmission.
Dave
Steve, Host