Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems

charles15 · June 2004

Steve - sure would be nice to know for sure if our 99 Quest does indeed have a non interference engine. The only thing that I have seen was for the last generation Pathfinder that has the same engine and is listed as interference - meaning of course that if the timing belt fails you can destroy the engine.

By the way - I had my transmission flushed by the dealer at 60K (my request) and have had no problems.

stever · June 2004

Dave says it's non interference too :-)

dhoff May 30, 2001 10:15pm

An outside source:

Is the Villager / Quest VG30E an Interference Engine? (under timing belt replacement).

I don't know about the '04's - anyone?

Steve, Host

wtd44 · June 2004

If you're worried about fluid "depletion" in a Quest/Villager, perhaps pumping fluid out of the fill tube and replacing it several quarts at a time over maybe several months would clean up the fluid via the dilution principle. I have under 23K miles on my 2000 Villager, and tentatively plan to pump and add using my Mityvac fluid pump (part #07200). I'll wait a while for more mileage first. You can see one of these magnificent pumps at:
http://www.mityvac.com/kits.html
I bought mine several years ago from J.C. Whitney by mail.

netherwood · June 2004

I have 96 Villager and the ECL came on yesterday. The OBD codes reported Throttle Position Sensor, 1st Gear & 2nd Gear. I read a few forums and some suggested that TPS may be the culprit. Some people even complained that they fixed everything and the light was still on. My van is still running fine and I did not feel any difference than before (tranny shifts smoothly). It will cost about $300 to get TPS replaced (part is $180). Any suggestions will be appreciated.

pleased1 · June 2004

I have a '96 Villager with 78,5K miles. It's been a reliable vehicle with very minimal problems. However, recently, while driving, the sliding passenger door will mysteriously pop open. It won't open all of the way, but will catch on the safety latch. The "door ajar" light on the dash lights up. Seems to happen whether the doors are locked or not. Has anyone experienced a similar problem? Any suggestions?

glenn1 · June 2004

I have a '97 Villager with 147k miles. I replaced a burned out brake light last week and soon afterwards started to experience an intermittent flashing battery and emergency brake light. Since then, the cruise light will also flash at times and the cruise may not engage or will disengage. The battery and alternator check out fine. I have seen previous mention of possible electrical problems after replacing light bulbs. Has anyone experienced something similar and what was the fix? Thanks.

shohjwh · June 2004

Hey, guys
I have nissan quest 1999 83K GXE and recently when I turned to right or left I could hear click-click-click sound. This morning, I went to the shop and guy said CD or CDT(?) joint was worned and I need to replace with ~$200 for one part. Eventually, I need to replace two parts. Is it big problem? I'm sorry but I forgot its exact name.
Thanks

kymike · June 2004

That's not unusual to have happen, especially given the mileage. I have had the boots covering the CV joints tear on both front axles. The first was caught in time and only needed a new boot and repacked with grease. The second was not caught in time and I needed the CV joint and boot replaced. I would not replace the second joint until the boot or joint fails.

whobodym · July 2004

Our '95 Quest was bought new about the time our 3rd child was born. Here's the car's problem history, mostly resolved, which I offer in case somebody might find it interesting. Our driving history has been a combination of lots of very short urban trips (school, etc.) with heavily loaded long trips (it has reached Fairbanks and Tuscon). We are now at about 97,500 miles.

Our first big problem came at 48,000 miles in 1999. An increase in exhaust noise signalled cracks in both exhaust manifolds. Some of the studs had actually cracked off and were totally gone. We were lucky to have this fixed free under the 5/50 powertrain warantee -- however, I suspect that the significant amount of "monkeying around" in the engine bay to replace the manifolds led to a number of other problems we have had over the years since then.

The most annoying and persistent problems we have had are leaks. It leaked a small but steady (and smelly) amount of coolant for years, and it took 3 or 4 dealer visits ($500 +) to fix. More than one place in and around the engine was leaking. We also had a persistent but intermittent gasoline leak from a fuel line downstream of the filter, underneath the throttle butterfly. This also took several dealer visits and a lot of money to fix. We also have a small oil leak, I think from a crank seal, that we've never fixed. The only fluids we have not leaked are a/c R132a, PSF and ATF.

We had "check engine" light stuck on, sometime about year 2000. This was EGR valve problem. About this time, knock sensor also died, which we have ignored, although it does knock a lot in summer urban driving. No apparent damage so far though.

Despite an ATF drain (DIY) every 40,000 or so, we found lightly toasty trans fluid last year at 85k, and did full flush. No transmission behavior problems, though, clear thru to today. Except the designed-in 4th/3rd/4th/3rd/4th/3rd you get in the mountains.

The brakes have been OK, just a couple of front pad replacements which turned out to have been done with plenty of miles left. They tend to be sqeaky at low speed and take more pedal effort than I'd like though.

The passive seatbelts were hated from day one but still work as designed. Occasionally in cold wet weather (we always park in the street) they fail to move forward when the door is opened, but a jab at the intertia switch reset button (the red button by the parking brake pedal) gets them going again.

Sometime about five years ago, the glovebox wouldn't open. I think the handle got disconnected from the latch. I used brute force and tools to cut the latch, which permanently bruised the dash padding. I then had to also disable the hold-open spring because glued-in velcro would not dependably keep the lid closed.

A constant annoyance for me has been the totally crummy 1960's technology Ford lock cylinders in ignition and doors. Their internal parts, apparently a mixture of steel wool and sandpaper grit, have worn the edges off 4 or 5 keys my wife and I have carried over the years. Long ago, we learned to be careful to check that the ignition was actually locked after we pulled out the key. I realized it was time to take action finally when we started feeling the key wiggle independent of the lock cylinder "ears" as we started the engine last month. It was a pleasant surprise to find that a brand-new 1960's Ford ignition lock is available from the Nissan parts counter for about $40 and it takes only 15 minutes to put it in. Now we have a car that feels like a brand-new 1969 Ford when you turn the key again.

The tailgate window latch rattles a lot. There are a couple of poker chips loose behind the speedometer, or at least it sounds like that.

The rear shock absorbers pretty much fell apart by 9 years / 90,000 miles. I replaced them, and the struts, with new KYB, myself, and they work well except that I didn't properly torque the strut center shaft at first, and we still have some mysterious creaks and clunks somewhere in the running gear.

The air cleaner black plastic box is the most irritating idiotic design I can imagine -- difficult to reach and open, hard to align properly, and prone to misassembly. I wonder how much un-filtered air our engine has breathed over the years.

My wife has reported several false alarms of "low oil" over the years, while I have never seen one. I don't know what's going on, but I somehow think this is related to the old problem of the crummy ignition lock, and pulling out the key not in the "off" position.

Things that have always worked perfectly: power windows, power seat, a/c, power mirrors, power locks, ABS. (We don't have a sunroof.) Our overall average gas mileage has been 18mpg. The best we've ever done is maybe 23.

I can hardly wait to get a Sienna or '05 Odyssey -- 4 doors! More room! An extra 100 or so horsepower! 5th gear! Stability control! More airbags! No silly-seatbelts! Maybe a sunroof and roll-down sliding door windows!

corsicachevy · July 2004

My wife, who I love dearly, purchased a pop-up camper from her aunt yesterday. This, of course, was done without my input.

Well, now I'm a camper owner and was wondering what sort of experience people have had towing with a Quest/Villager. "My" camper only weighs 2070lbs, so it falls well within the manufacturer's recommended towing capacity of 3000lbs. Should I get an oil cooler? A transmission cooler?

Any advice would be welcome.

my2kidsdriver · July 2004

I had (sigh) a 2000 MPV that I loved. It unfortunately was the victim of a red-light runner (I think -- insurance adjusters haven't gotten around to looking at it yet). It would appear that we're going to have to get a new van.
  Ours was a LX with touring package. It had 91,000 miles on it and was scrupulously maintained. What would be a fair value for that car? Second, is a replacement Mazda the best choice now that we are forced into a replacement. Our Mazda was paid for as of June 15. I'm not finding anything comparable at our local CarMax. I did, however, find a couple of low-miles Mercury Villagers that were loaded... However, the offset crash results are giving me pause. I spoke with insurance agent and our rates would actually go DOWN with Villager. Why is this?
  Anybody with experience comparing the two vans, please let me hear... I remember when we bought MPV, I was dismayed to see all the bad reviews -- but it's now (and has been) a CR recommended buy. I absolutely loved it when we lived in Florida. We later moved and encountered hills where the lack of power that was never even a factor before came into play at times.
  Our other car is a 1994 Toyota Corolla (next in line for replacement until MPV crash). I'm trying to keep payment reasonably low as I figure Corolla won't last forever. So far, though, pretty good.
  Thanks for any help / insight.

wtd44 · July 2004

The original series of Villager/Quest, which is no longer being made as a joint venture, is an outstanding vehicle with a great engine. My wife drives our 2000 Villager, and we both think very highly of it. We bought it brand new. They generally require little to no upkeep beyond routine maintenance such as oil changes. Ours was one of the best automotive bargains we have ever acquired. There are probably some good used ones still available.

my2kidsdriver · July 2004

Does the "poor" rating for offset crashes not bother you? It's what's making me hesitate ... I test-drove one and loved it (a 2002 with 15K). Our old MPV was an excellent car and we had no plans to replace it... I could just be extra-skittish at this point because of the crash. My side air bag (Does Quest/Villager have one?) deployed. I don't know that it really made a difference in survival or injury -- it was the first time I've ever had anything deploy. Mazda rated "acceptable" for offsets, but I'm not sure how much better that is.

mn_pat · July 2004

I have a 2k Quest. I just got back from a 4th of July camping trip with our popup camper. My camper only weighs 1000lbs and the van pulled it ok. If I was in traffic or driving within city limits I turned off the overdrive. All in all I'd say the Quest worked ok as an occasional tow vechile. As far as the Xmission oil cooler I'm not sure if that is necessary for occasional tow jobs, I'd like hear opinions on that as well.

stever · July 2004

I just updated my gas and maintenance logs tonight.

93,330 miles (purchased my '99 Quest GXE 12/31/98).

Cost to operate:

$862.66 for taxes and registration.
$3,141.70 for insurance.
$7,860.85 for gas (est. @ $1.80 a gallon - 6373
gallons burned)
$2,617.16 expenses (service/tires/accessories)

Value:

$7,675.00 TMV (clean, private party)
$15,106.00 depreciation (paid $$22,781)

So, 16 cents to own and operate; 32 cents a mile with depreciation included in the cost of ownership.

My mpg is at an all time high of 21.3 combined, and I had two tanks in a row back in March of 29+ - one was 29.95 so I almost broke 30 for the first time!. The worse tank in the last 10,000 miles was 15.21.

Non-scheduled maintenance includes front brakes and a battery. $1,138 was for scheduled maintenance and $293 was for aftermarket stuff and $956 was for 9 tires, a rim and a few flats.

My driver's side power window is still balky (JimZ? <g>) and I had to reglue the side mirror for the 5th (?) time the other day from where I dropped a canoe on it. I haven't had to clean the throttle body for a while now.

Otherwise no problems to speak of. I'm looking forward to a big bill for a new timing belt and plugs, fan belts, hoses and fluids in the next year or so.

Steve, Host

wtd44 · July 2004

Looking at my 2000 Villager's engine, the changing of the plugs should be straight forward. I had essentially the same engine in a Pathfinder I owned a while back. I did serious acrobatics changing the plugs at 60K miles. It has everything to do with the layout of the engine-- front to back versus side to side.

harddrivet · July 2004

Hello,
I have a 2000 Nissan Quest and on the front cup holders one of them no longer will hold its position a keep a cup stable. Is there anyway to repair this, or how can I replace it myself?
Thanks.

stever · July 2004

On my '99 Quest, I can't even find one of the plugs. Looks like a big pain to replace three of them. I don't think I have enough socket extenders and swivel joints (or knuckle skin) to attempt it.

Steve, Host

charles15 · July 2004

Steve:

We purchased our 99 GXE at about the same time - mine has 78K on it with few problems - did have to replace an alternator that was overcharging.

Have you ever determined what was causing your coolant to go below minimum (earlier post)? I have a similar problem in that I have to top it off to bring it back up to full once or twice between oil changes. The dealer has pressure tested the system twice and found no leaks. Seems to be worse in the winter - maybe heater related. I can usually smell coolant when first shutting the vehicle down. My concern is it is internal and may mean big $$$.

Still have not changed my timing belt but am a little worried about going to 105 because I am pretty sure that we have an interference engine. I know we discussed this earlier but serveral automotive searches identify that I am correct.

vonbill3 · July 2004

I recently changed the plugs on my '93 Villager.
The front bank plugs are readily accessible, but the rear bank ones are very deep requiring socket wrench extensions. You must have a rubber-sleeved socket which will grip the plug. I also duct-taped the socket extensions so they wouldn't come apart.

A warning. It's highly recommended that you tighten the plugs with a torque wrench. A relative recently had to replace the engine head (4-cylinder Mazda)because a spark plug came loose, stripped the threads and ejected. The repair cost was about $3000.

He either tightened the plug too much and damaged the threads in the aluminum head or the plug was too loose resulting in thread damage each time the cylinder fired. It took about 30000 miles before the failure. Very expensive lesson.

stever · July 2004

My coolant level has been fine lately and I've never smelled coolant. Maybe mine is winter related too, but I haven't had it pressure tested.

Did you save the links showing that the engine is an interference one?

I'm debating about changing out the timing belt early too, but that goes against my frugal nature (although being frugal doesn't mean I want to cheap out and break down somewhere).

Since my mileage keeps increasing, I'm loathe to mess it up with a bunch of new parts!

Steve, Host

wtd44 · July 2004

That's a very unusual tale concerning the sparkplug "blow out." While I don't use a torque wrench on plugs, I have so many decades of repetition and success, that I consider my arms to be very good spark plug torque detectors. I will be even more careful now.

My experiences with coolant losses always have led me to try sealers that you pour into the radiator to circulate to the area of the cryptic leak. By golly, it almost always works!

charles15 · July 2004

Here is one of several that I found suggesting that the Quest hs an interference engine

http://gates.com/part_locator/index.cfm?location_id=3002

The interesting thing is, I always find that these sites also verify that the Quest belt should be changed at 105K. I also have a VW Passat with a belt change interval of 105K but I know it is an interference engine and will change at 60k regardless. Seems to me some manufactures must believe their belts go longer. My problem is I doubt they would replace the engine if the belt breaks out of warranty and causes major damage.

dhoff · July 2004

Our 99 Quest is overdue for it's timing belt - it was supposed to get one at 105,000 miles, and it's at 115,000 or so now.

From what I've read on the internet (insert disclaimer here) the Villager/Quest engines are non-interference. I have also read reports of them going much longer than the recommended change mileage without problems. I'm sure some of them break before 105,000 too, but I've never heard of one.

I do plan on getting it changed probably next week, along with the water pump and accessory drive belts. I'm debating wether to have them try to fix a pesky little coolant leak somewhere under the intake manifold at the same time. It leaks a tiny amount, I have to add a bit of coolant once or twice a year. Not sure if it's worth it, or even if they could give an accurate estimate without tearing it apart.
Dave

stever · July 2004

Someone was just talking about going 300,000 miles on a belt intended for 100,000 - his rig wasn't worth much anyway so he figured spending the $400 on stuff that did break was a better use of the money than replacing the belt. (spartanmann "Honda Odyssey vs Toyota Sienna" Jul 12, 2004 11:04am)

I've seen the Gates link, but I wonder if they are just parroting the Pathfinder requirements since it has the same VG33E engine designation.

I have a factory manual and it doesn't address the issue, unfortunately.

The one legit looking scanned document I've seen on the net claiming that the Quest was a non-interference design (via the VillagerQuest FAQ I linked the other day) doesn't indicate the source.

Interesting that several of us seem to have small coolant leaks at high miles. Anyone else?

Steve, Host

wtd44 · July 2004

Is the driver's side electric window switch repairable, or only replaceable? Mine, like so many reported here, is getting balky and otherwise contrary to orderly operation. I predict it will get worse until I do something about it. I would think there may be a way to get into it and improve the function of the mechanism. Any successes or failures to report?

stever · July 2004

I've looked at mine pretty closely and I don't see any way to repair it without destroying the case it's in. But if you hacksaw the case apart, there's always epoxy to put it back together.

Try jiggling the glass and lubing the edges too.

Steve, Host

izaclown1 · July 2004

My 2000 Villager switches still work fine for the front windows and the drive back vent. The passenger side vent window stopped working and then started working backwards from the rest of the switches.

The other switch I am having some heartburn over is the turn signal and the high/low beam switch. Sometime the high/low beam flickers when I activate the switch and sometimes the signals fail to work.

That was a bunch of green to lay down for the Estate package on a vehicle the has so many little nit-picky problems (switches, radio display, climate control failure, etc).

dhoff · July 2004

I replaced the driver's side switch and tried taking the old one apart just to see if there was anything I could have done. I got the case opened with some difficulty, and discovered the inside is packed with electronics and circuit boards. I couldn't see a way to get at the actual mechanical part of the switch. Someone with more experience with electronics might have more luck.

Dave

wtd44 · July 2004

Mine continues to work, but requires a little finesse from time to time, thus indicating it is developing a problem. I have to press the switch from a couple of different angles to get the contact to make. I guess I'll wait a while, and when the aggravation gets big enough, I'll kick for the bucks and buy a replacement. Thanks for sharing your experience on a similar one, dhoff.

harddrivet · July 2004

I guess you folks have not had this problem.
Well thanks anyway.

stever · July 2004

Guess not - someone had an adjustment problem way back in '99:

jpmri5 Dec 1, 1999 2:40am

Maybe you have a lot of spilled Coke on it that's gumming it up?

Steve, Host

wtd44 · July 2004

On 18 July my driver's side window switch took the predicted hike. I removed it with the entire module from the car with the help of my Haynes manual, and went to the Mercury dealership parts counter. I heard some mumbling about 82 dollars and a need to order it for overnight (possibly) delivery. I pointed out that the piece appeared subdivided, but the parts guy found only one level of assembly that could be ordered. I think I am getting a complete set of four switches and surrounding sub parts. It must be fixed, so I didn't put up much of a fuss. More later.

harddrivet · July 2004

Hi and thanks for the response. No gum up that I can find. We just cannot adust the right most cup holder anymore, so it will not hold anything. I guess I will take it in for service but am concerned they will over charge me and my thought was I might fix it myself, but where to buy the part.
Thanks again.

stever · July 2004

My wife drives the van these days so I can't walk out and eyeball the dash, but the service manual just shows two screws holding the ashtray and cupholder assembly in place. The screws are on the outside edges of the console opening where the assembly fits.

So you might be able to find one online or at a salvage yard and d-i-y for cheap.

Steve, Host

wtd44 · July 2004

I have installed and "road tested" my new power window switch (see #1503). With sales tax, the module cost me $87 and change. No telling what the Mercury dealer might have charged for the labor, had I not done the installation myself. It is my opinion that the switch module price probably represents 80% profit, 20% cost.

PS to steve_ HOST: I double checked my sparkplug access on my 2000 Villager, and I remain convinced that the engine is rolled to the front, so to speak, to a position that makes all six plugs accessible from the top of the engine. I noted that my Haynes manual claims that Villager plugs on one bank must be approached from below the engine, next to the firewall. The visualization I get just standing there, looking, is that you could never reach any of the six plugs from below on this year model! Do you suppose other years of models did not have the engine oriented at the angle of rotation I see in mine?

stever · July 2004

No, you just have better visualization skills than me :-)

Guess what's a big problem on the '04 Quests?

Replacing the driver's power window switch, which has a high failure rate.

AutoWeek

Steve, Host

scottmsimpson · July 2004

The plugs on this V-6 are in the middle of the V, on the intake side, as opposed to most V engines, that have them on the outside of the V, on the exhaust side. Those are a real bear to get at on transverse mounted engines. Look at about any other minivan engine, and tell me how you'd get to the rear bank of plugs. The Nissan V-6 plugs couldn't be much easier, all you need is a long extension. The problem I ran into is the plug socket likes to stay on the plug instead of coming up on the extension. Someone in an earlier post used some tape to hold the socket onto the extension. That is a good idea. Our 95 had a plug change interval of 60K as I remember. The 2002 we just traded up for now has a 100K interval.

Steve, why did you close out the Villager discussion? Just 'cause you can't buy a new one doesn't mean there is nothing to discuss.
There aren't many problems to discuss on these vehicles....
Our 95 didn't have any of the typical problems.
Just some ball joints, tie rods, and it liked to lock the doors by itself.
We just turned over 100K on it, and it still had original muffler, shocks/struts, rear brakes, hoses, all lamps.
Scott 2002 Villager Estate Premium

stickguy · July 2004

the '95 had an entirely different engine, a 3.0l derived from the Maxima engine. The '99+ models have a version of the 3.3l truck engine (I believe it also sees duty in the Frontier).

I haven't really looked too close, but I don't recall the back plugs being comepletely buried. I seem to think that the engine is tilted forward, and the rear bank might be somewhat exposed.

Of course, if they didn't insit on slapping on plastic covers to hide the engine, it would be easier to tell.

stever · July 2004

I didn't close out the Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager discussion. Discussions on Town Hall automatically go to the archives after ~6 weeks of inactivity.

I considered reopening it (and I'm happy to do so if people want), but I figured most of the pre-'04 talk would center around problems anyway.

Steve, Host

wtd44 · July 2004

No cover on my 2000 Villager 3.3L engine. The plug wires are very easy to trace to the "wells" that hold the plugs. I couldn't find the service life recommendation for the plugs in the owners manual, so I looked it up in my Haynes manual. It said 30K miles to the first spark plug change.

Almost unbelievable that the 2004 Quest STILL has the window switch wear-out problem! They coulda fixed it so easily on this new model.

kcrnmale · July 2004

Today I changed my fuel filter with a Purolater brand...cost $10. The filter is located underneath the driver's side about halfway back underneath a triangular cover. You have to remove 4 rusty metric bolts (I used an adjustable wrench) that has a size between 3/8 and 7/16. To remove the filter, unscrew the bolt holding the metal strap around filter, and the clamps at each end where the rubber fuel lines are connected. Pull off each fuel line and enjoy the fresh smell of gasoline as it soaks you. Replace your new filter in the reverse manner making sure you have the direction of the flow correct. Not a job to perform with a cigarette in your mouth.

sopman · July 2004

I have a '99 Quest and have the same problem with my tach. It broke around 45,000. Still broke. Did you get your fixed?

Sopman

stever · July 2004

I got my hands on a broken driver's side combo window switch today and swapped it for my balky one. Same issue.

The replacement one will work to raise my driver's window if I pull back hard on it and hold it for a second or two. Jiggling the window in the track seems to help too.

So I put my balky one back in since there was no improvement.

Like Dave said, there's nothing inside except circuit boards that I can see. I couldn't get underneath the boards - is there a trick to getting the switch covers off too?

Steve, Host

ps - thanks for the part Jim!

wtd44 · July 2004

Don't wait on the $85.00 solution until your upholstery gets rained on. It almost happened to me. The only saving grace is that to have had the dealer do the whole job would have run the bill up to maybe $250.00... ouch!

stever · July 2004

It doesn't rain in Boise :-)

When I had this issue under warranty they replaced the window motor. So I'm a little dubious if it's just the switch. I also don't mind living a little bit dangerously (maybe some duck tape and clear plastic needs to be tossed in with the jack though <g>).

Steve, Host

wtd44 · August 2004

A while back I traded in my factory steel wheels that came on my base model 2000 Villager. I now have DeVino five spoke aftermarket wheels from Discount tire. I really like them, and feel that they do a lot in appearance for this otherwise very plain minivan. Now I find that the spare tire is dry rotting on the rim, and deserves a little attention. There seems to be no way available or reasonable to get a brand new tire to go on the "doughnut wheel" that is carried outside the vehicle, under the cargo space, hanging from a cable. You know the situation to which I allude. Is there adequate room and clearance to successfully suspend a full size wheel and tire there without negative consequences? What do you think is the best course of action?

stever · August 2004

I got a universal rim for my '99 Quest when it was new and I've been carrying a full size spare underneath for years now.

You may be able to find an OEM rim at a salvage yard; I tried that first before settling for the universal.

Steve, Host

kymike · August 2004

A full size wheel/tire will fit underneath. I had one on my '93. I believe that they come with the towing package.

thong24k · August 2004

My Quest'01 fan won't stop and cause the car start problem. It's drain all the battery. Does anyone have this problem? I have this problem once before when I purchased it brand new at year'00. But once I recharged battery it never occured again till today. I attemp to do the same thing, but this time it won't work. Can anyone help me? I will take it to Nissan tomorrow, but want to have some idea what's wrong with the van?

Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems

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