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Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems

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  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes S.E. Wisconsin Posts: 894
    for your help on this forum. The advice to lube the stabilizer bushings got rid of my front end squeak. I cleaned the throttle body and used fuel injection cleaner and now the van runs smooth. New sneakers and a cooling system flush and I'm ready for winter.
  • wtd44wtd44 Posts: 1,211
    These strings of relatively minor problems are irritating, for sure, but they are not exactly terrible. Back in '03 I really tried to buy a Toyota and came away dismayed from one dealership and outright angry from another. I suspect I'll never buy one, based on the "early warning system alarm" I have already experienced. So I can't look at Toyota as a good alternative to the Quest/Villager. I am definitely fickle about motor vehicles, and I trade them off and sell them far more frequently than a lot of folks. This is one way to "cure" dissatisfactions, but it can get expensive. Maybe your time to move on to a replacement for your 1999 Villager has arrived. Using my formula, I think you're there. I have a ways to go on my 2000. I'm not convinced yet!
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes S.E. Wisconsin Posts: 894
    On the Toyota Sienna prices paid forum, I think i'll be keeping my Villager a long time. 35-42k for a minivan? I understand it's a much more modern vehicle, but it's still just a van.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    You can get most Siennals for under $30k. Take a look at the Sienna under New Cars tab.
  • vrmvrm Posts: 303
    My 2000 GXE has 89,000 miles. I experience intermittent loss of Power Steering - the steering becomes very heavy for a couple of minutes. This happens only say once in 3 or 4 weeks. I also have very noisy/squeaky belts. Not sure which belt is making the noise. The noise is more pronounced on rainy/cloudy days.

    The Nissan dealer says I should replace the PS pump along with Steering rack. Total cost: $1600.
    I had a gas station mechanic shop inspect the van.
    They recommend that I replace all my after-market belts -PS, A/C and water pump along with PS fluid flush. The dealer said that my PS belt is tight.

    I am confused. Any feedback or comments would be appreciated. Thanks.
  • don8don8 Posts: 1
    My 98 nissan quest is stuck in park. and yes i know you have to step on the brake. Was working fine till this morning. Any help would be appreciated.
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes S.E. Wisconsin Posts: 894
    Switching the key to the "off" position (one click after you insert the key.) You should the be able toshift to neutral without stepping on the brake. Then you can start the car and shift. At least then you can drive it. If this works It's probably the switch that releases the shifter when you step on the brake. If this doesn't work my guess is it's a transmission issue.
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,417
    Some of y'all should post over in the Got a Quick, Technical Question discussion over in Maintenance and Repair too; there are some techs who hang out over there who give out non-stop repair advice.

    Here's a link:

    alcan "Got a Quick, Technical Question?" Nov 25, 2004 5:51am

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  • What would cause the front brakes to make rattling noises?
  • wtd44wtd44 Posts: 1,211
    Sometimes, replacement front pads will rattle.
  • sopmansopman Posts: 46
    Has anyone changed the headlight bulb? I was able to disconnect the wires, but wasn't able to get the bulb out. Do I have to remove the hole light fixture?

    Sopman
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,417
    You should be able to replace the bulb without removing the headlamp body.

    Disconnect the wiring harness from the back of the bulb. Turn the bulb retaining ring counterclockwise until it is free from the headlamp reflector and then remove it. Don't shake or rotate the bulb when removing it (I don't know why you care with a burnt out bulb, but this is what my '99's factory manual says).

    Install in reverse order, don't touch the glass, etc.

    Hope this helps!

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  • sopmansopman Posts: 46
    Thanks Steve for the headlight advise. I'll try it tomorrow morning after I start the space heater. Getting a little cold up here in NY. One other questions, you posted back in Sept about your tach sticking. How is it working now? Mine has been broke for about 1 1/2 years now. It would be nice to have, but I don't want to sink alot of money into fixing it.

    Sopman
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,417
    Still sticky - I'm surprised it moves around at all; you'd think if it's broken it's broken. Maybe there's a ground problem?

    I really should look in my $120 manual and see if it sheds any light on it!

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  • hi, this is my first time here, and I am so glad I found this site. I recently bought my second quest, a 2000 SE. It was used with 42,000 on it. I have had to replace every single light bulb in the vehicle and a fuse for the inside lights. Now my front headlight is out again and I just replaced it 2 months ago. I can definately hear a sort of crackling noise when I put my high beams on or off( through the radio) This cant be normal. Also, my CD player, which they fixed before I picked up my van, plays only once in a while. I did bring my van in for the CD player earlier while under warranty and they couldnt find any problem with it (of course) My 1994 Quest with 185,000 miles on it had less problems for the 7 years I owned it than this one has had already. Has anyone else had these similar problems? My husband wants me to trade it in already and look elsewhere, and I've only had my van for 6 months.
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,417
    Did you know the seller of the van or did you run a CarFax on it? It almost sounds like it was flood damaged or something with that many electrical problems. Or maybe it's just another grounding issue :-).

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  • wtd44wtd44 Posts: 1,211
    I'm the original owner of a 2000 Mercury Villager.

    When I had the passenger side front wheel off to get access to the bottom of the windshield washer reservoir, I noted that the original pads in that caliper looked worn down to where I should pay attention. We have 24,400 miles on the vehicle. How long do you suppose the average mileage potential might be on Quest/Villager original front pads?
  • kymikekymike Posts: 115
    We bought our 99 villager used with 28,000 miles. The pads needed replaced shortly thereafter. We now have 80,000 miles and are still on the second set of pads. If most miles are hiway, then the pads will last longer. It could also be that the original pads were soft and tend to wear out sooner than replacements.

    I wouldn't worry about the mileage between changes as so much depends on driving style, terrain, etc. Just check them annually and replace as needed.
  • I have a 98 nissan quest at 108,000 miles and the timing belt is overdue for replacement. Where exactly is it located in the vehicle so that we can look to see if we can do it ourselves? Why should the water pump be replaced at the same time as the belt and what is the purpose of the belt? Also the heater/ac in the rear is not working and sometimes it makes a bumping noise. What could be the cause of this?
  • Actually I did do the carfax on it and it came up clean. We bought it from the same dealership we bought our other one from with no problems. Could I just have a lemon? How much would it cost me to fix this electrical problem and is it worth it after having it for such a short amount of time? After reading all the problems this year has, Ii'm afraid something else will go wrong. I wonder why consumer reports gave this van such a great rating????
  • carzzzcarzzz Posts: 282
    Just wondering the best way to defrost side windows for 1st gen (96-98) Quest?
    I have try using heat and a/c combo still, the frost is still on the all 6 sides windows, it really give me a hard time to check the bindspot!
    The front and the rear windshield are fine because of the heater!

    THanks
    Carzzz
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,417
    Electrical problems can be hard to trace; I'd ask around locally for someone who's good at finding wiring problems so you don't spend a ton of money trying to diagnose the problem.

    You may want to check out this archived discussion too:

    Grounding Kit

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  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,417
    Any luck with the bulb, Sopman?

    Anyone with a pre-'99 Quest that can help with the timing belt, heater and defrost questions (and any others we missed)?

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  • What type of commercial coolant should be used to top up the coolant in a 99Quest? I am sure that I should not have to purchase a Nissan brand coolant.

    I have mentioned before here that I have a very slow loss of coolant that the dealer has not been able to trace. Seems to only occur in the winter when I run my heater so it must be related to the heater core.

    Just though someone may have the same problem and or can recommend a coolant type. Prestone?
  • kymikekymike Posts: 115
    I had a slight coolant leak on my '99 Villager that I could not locate. I would have a few drops on the ground after the car sat out overnight, but no loss while it was running. Turned out to be a hose clamp that was not fully tightened. The hose would shrink with the cold temps and then swell back up when the engine was running. The leak was on the passenger side up near the firewall.

    The bad thing was that when the dealer fixed this, he must have dislodged a vacuum hose for the cruise control. It took me about nine months to finally locate and reconnect that hose.
  • dhoffdhoff Posts: 282
    This is just a guess. I once had a car that was constantly needing new bulbs. Headlights, taillights, brake lights, dome lights... I must have replaced every bulb in that car two or three times. Then at around 90,000 miles the alternator went out.

    I had it replaced, and had the car for another 60,000 miles and never replaced another bulb. As it turns out, the voltage regulator was built into the alternator and obviously wasn't working right. This is something a mechanic should be able to check out in your case. Definetly worth checking before you get a new van.

    Dave
  • dhoffdhoff Posts: 282
    The timing belt is located under a cover in the passenger side of the engine. It's not too easy to get at, though there are shade tree types that have changed it themselves.

    Dave
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 14,434
    I have a '99 that just turned 6 YO. So far, I replaced one of the high-mounted brake light bulbs, and I think that is it. You definitely sound like there is a problem someplace, and electrical/grounding issues can be a bear to track down. You want a good person on the case.

    I got 30K IIRC on the original front pads. I think the OEMs are kinda soft. I put on upgraded aftermarket pads (Raybestos(?) quiet stops I think), and at 54K they seem fine.

    2013 Acura RDX (wife's), 2007 Volvo S40 (daughter stole that one), and 2000 Acura TL (formerly son's, now mine again)

  • wtd44wtd44 Posts: 1,211
    Thanks for sharing your personal experience with front brake pads. I think I'm ready for doing the same change out in a few thousand more miles. It'd be nice to be able to wait until spring, but I'll do it after not much more pad thickness is lost. Your info was the last little bit I needed to set my course.
  • My 2001 Quest SE turned 60,000 over the Thanksgiving weekend. Thus far I have replaced the tires, lubricated the front stabilizer bar bushings and replaced a tail light. That's it. Surprisingly, my brake pads look like they still have about 10,000 miles left on them.

    There are two annoyances that I have not addressed: the steering wheel mounted volume control sometimes inadvertently changes the radio station and the plastic "chrome" coating on my interior door handle (driver's side) has started to peel.
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