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Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems

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Comments

  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes S.E. Wisconsin Posts: 903
    My 2001 Villager also has needed a tail light, I've lubed the stabilizer bushings, and it needs tires. 34k on mine. No other problems. Oh yeah, I did clean the throttle body to cure a rough idle.
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes S.E. Wisconsin Posts: 903
    after reading that the oem pads don't last long, but I checked them about a month ago and they look fine. Mine sees mostly city driving,too.
  • dhoffdhoff Posts: 282
    I've posted this in the brake forum, but just in case I'll post it here too. I got about 50,000 miles on the first two sets of front bake pads. I recently replaced them with Satisfied Pro Ceramic pads with new rotors from Tire Rack. I would not recommend these pads at all. I may have to bite the bullet and replace them with Raybestos Quiet Stops, or back to OEM pads. There are really noisy at low speeds (not squealing but groaning) and have coated the front wheels with a layer of BLACK brake dust that I find much more noticeable than the reddish color the stock pads produced.

    I have about 125,000 miles on my 99 Quest. I had a coolant leak repaired and the rear hatch struts replaced under warranty. Had 1 ball joint replaced and accessory belts at around 60,000, two sets of tires, blower motor resistor twice, driver window switch once, new spark plugs around 100,000, belts, water pump, cam seals & coolant just done. Cleaned the throttle body a bunch of times. I also replaced one taillight and 4 stop lamp bulbs, and the front parking light bulbs. That's all I can remember, I'm sure there's been a couple of other things.

    My tach is stuck, some instrument cluster lights are out, and the steering wheel volume "up" switch most times changes radio stations or advances tracks on CD's. Also, I have a small coolant leak that's been there for a long time somewhere under the intake manifold. Haven't bothered getting it looked at.

    Not as reliable as I had hoped, but all in all not too bad. Fingers crossed, I want it to go another 80,000 or so before it gets replaced.

    Dave
  • First, I want to thank you guys for replying to my complaint. I will talk to a mechanic and see what he thinks. I have felt a slight hesitation in the engine once in a while also, so I'm still thinking of getting something else, but will get a diagnosis first. Hopefully I wont blow another light in the meantime....
  • I smell exhaust fumes inside my 1995 Quest GXE.
    Any ideas. I've tried playing with my air cond. / heater panel controls.. fresh air etc. still smells. THANKS D.Soltero
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,261
    Sounds like it could be a cracked exhaust system. You need to get to a mechanic ASAP to rule out carbon monoxide poisoning. Even small amounts of CO are unsafe.

    It could be an oil leak dripping on the exhaust or a bad rear hatch gasket letting exhaust fumes in, but don't ignore it.

    Steve, Host

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • I am new to this format, and am especially interested in a previous post by corsicachevy. You described a steering feel of "notchy" just off center when turning the steering wheel, and my 2002 Villager has started with this same sensation. Ford seems baffled. How did you end up solving this problem, or did you just accept it. I drove one other Villager of a similar make and model that exhibited the same sensation, although much less pronounced. My brother has a 2000, and I asked him about his, and it did not show that behavior.

     

    To clarify, what I notice is that as you turn the wheel gradually back and forth, you feel that notchy or jerky feel as though power assist is swiching rapidly in and out, or changing effectiveness.

     

    I would love to hear more about this.

     

    Thanks for any discussion you may provide.
  • hi, I'm back..... Last night while at my daughters basketball game every other parent came in to tell me my alarm was going off non stop. I had locked my car, but this is just another problem that just popped up. It took me MANY times of pushing my unlock key for it to finally unlock without locking again instantly. Could all these problems be connected? Looking under edmunds.com, these vans are highly unrecommended.

    I wish I found this site before I bought.
  • dhoffdhoff Posts: 282
    If you haven't already, try posting your problem in: Electronic Gremlins: Electrical Problems That Are Driving You Crazy. I hope someone there may be able to help you out.

     

    Dave
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,261

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • I have a 96 Villager that started to make a rattling noise that sounds like the rockers at the top of the engine. Changed the oil and at startup, the noise was still there, but then disappeared after 15 seconds or so, i mean it just went away! Well, 2 days later, noise has returned, oil level is fine as it was before and the oil light at times flickers as if the level was low. Any ideas? Thanks for any help.
  • wtd44wtd44 Posts: 1,211
    If you list a lot more diagnostic info, someone here may have some ideas for you: How many miles on engine? General condition. Maintenance always perfect in time and quantity? Smoking exhaust? Hard use? Oil and oil/air filters change history. Etc.
  • Brekal - Here's how I "fixed" the notchiness in my steering. When presented with this problem, my service station reacted much like yours. They checked for the typical culprits and came up empty.

     

    I went about two weeks without driving the van (wife's vehicle). When I returned to the Quest the notchiness was gone. Maybe she hit something. :-)
  • Additional information, it has about 144,000 miles. no oil smoking,no oil leaks, all maintenance has been kept up.
  • wtd44wtd44 Posts: 1,211
    My impression is that you may have a lot of engine wear at that mileage, and the residual oil pressure is lower than it once was. The noisiness in the overhead area may be lifters not pumping up strongly at low RPMs, due to wear. You could try some STP oil treatment to see if the thickening of your oil changes the noise levels favorably. Do you suppose that your engine is just wearing out? I feel like that sometimes... >:*(
  • elfinelfin Posts: 1
    The noise you hear is the hydraulic lifters pumping up. They should pump up quickly and then stay that way. The oil light flickering says you have low oil pressure. Therefore you either have a bad oil pressure sending unit, which I doubt, or a bad oil pump, which is what this sounds like.

     

    This should be checked out by a mechanic SOON. Low oil pressure will ruin your engine in just a short amount of time. If you are diving and hear a sudden knocking sound then the engine is gone and will need to be replaced.

     

    Elfin
  • wtd44wtd44 Posts: 1,211
    The oil pump should be considered, although they don't seem to go bad very often in modern vehicles.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,261
    Gates has changed their timing belt info since I last checked it. Now some of the Quests are listed as having non-interference engines.

     

    Gates - pdf file

     

    Steve, Host

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes S.E. Wisconsin Posts: 903
    a listing for Villager after 1998. The Pathfinder with the 3.3 says 105,000 and non-interference for 2001 so I would assume my 2001 Villager would be the same?
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,261
    Odd - I thought all the Pathy's were interference versions of that engine.

     

    Steve, Host

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes S.E. Wisconsin Posts: 903
    Is the Pathfinder's 3.3 different than the one in the Quest/Villager? I figured a 3.3 Nissan was a 3.3 Nissan.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,261
    Theories abound. I've always heard that Ford made Nissan make the Villager/Quest engines non-interference when Ford build them under the joint agreement they had, as opposed to the interference one the Pathfinder had.

     

    And the VG engine has come in various flavors for the Pathy, Frontier and Xterra iirc, at least the 3.0 liter version. But I never have found a definitive source that spells it out (although Steve Cutchen's site sounds right to me).

     

    Steve, Host

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • Inlaws just came to dinner and said they were having problems with door locks on there 1997 quest van, it seams the keys,3 of them with one being new wont unlock the doors. they have no problems with the rear hatch door where all three keys work. they send one of the children in the back to unlock the front doors. also doors will lock by them selves
  • That's funny I ran across your comment, I read that my 95 Quest GXE was a non-interference engine. Which I hope that's true!
  • I have a 99 and I am experiencing similiar symptoms. At Thanksgiving, while going down the interstate, I had a ton of rattling and lost oil pressure. Turned out that the screen in the oil pan was clogged.

     

    I have a friend who has a 97 and he says that Nissan has a special oil filter that prevents all of the oil going into the pan when you turn off the motor. It leaves some oil in the heads to help with that, but I haven't gone to Nissan yet to verify.
  • I would like instructions on how to clean the throttle body, as I have had this problem as well.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,261
  • 1993 Nissan Quest. Four-ways work, blinkers work, third brake light works, tail lights work, rear brake light will not work when the brake pedal is depressed. I checked the brake switch and checked to see if power goes to the brake switch. Both checked out ok. Why won't the brake lights work? Thanks
  • jlemolejlemole Posts: 345
    Has anyone ever removed the 3rd row bench seat. If so, how is it done? I have a 2001 Quest, and I'm trying to repair the mechanism which locks the seat into place along its tracks.

     

    Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

     

    Jon
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,261
    I've had mine out several times on my '99. Move the seat to the middle position first. Then remove two bolts at the front corners (under the round plastic covers), and four more bolts (two at each rear corner). Don't mess with the rails themselves or you'll have alignment issues.

     

    Fold the seat in half and have someone help you ease it out through the sliding doors (it's heavy).

     

    To reinstall, place the seat in the middle position and install the front two bolts, torquing to 25 - 34 ft. lbs. Then slide the seat to the full rear position and install the rest of the bolts (same torque).

     

    There is an adjustment bolt and a tension shaft on the passenger side of the seat that you may want to play with before yanking the seat out. You have to remove the plastic slide release handle to expose the hex shaft (really just another bolt <g>). The tension on this hex shaft should be 17 - 80 ft. lbs. when the 3rd seat can just begin to move. But it sounds like you may need to adjust the cable system. There's an adjustment bolt in a slotted holder in the same area (under more plastic) that can be slid back and forth to adjust the tension on the cable system. Tightening the cable reduces slide release effort.

     

    At least that's what my manual says - I've never played with the slide release gizmo. My scanner isn't installed but if you get stuck maybe I can get a copy of the page to you. But the manual is pretty thin on the seats.

     

    Steve, Host

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

This discussion has been closed.