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Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems

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Comments

  • dhoffdhoff Member Posts: 282
    I had a torn CV boot on my Quest this fall. I took it to a good local independent garage and had both the axles replaced with remanufactured units, thinking if one goes the other will soon follow (don't know if it's true but that was my theory). It cost right around $500 US, so $250 for one side is about right.

     

    In the past I took my cars to a different garage, and they always wanted to repack and put new boots on the old axles. By the time the labor was done it cost nearly the same as a reman.

     

    If you are feeling really adventurous, you could try taking out the axle and replacing it yourself. I know people on the Yahoo Villager/Quest list have written about doing this, and they make it sound pretty easy.

     

    I'm not that adventurous any more, but my hat's off to anyone who is willing to do it.

     

    Dave
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Hey Dave, I've seen references to the Raxles site for the d-i-y, but I'm not ready to tackle it either. Buying one for a shop to put in may be an idea though.

     

    Steve, Host
  • verdes3verdes3 Member Posts: 6
    Hi, I have a 98 Quest, intermittently the engine dies while driving. All gauges die where they are, there seems to be no ignition power at all. All I do to restart is, while the van is still rolling, shift the transmission into neutral, turn off the ignition, wait a couple of seconds and then restart the engine. There are no warning lights before or after, and this does not happen all the time. I have gone days with no problems. As far as I can recall, this has only happened during cruising speeds not in town driving. This van has 120,000 miles and has needed little work. I have replaced plug wires, cap, rotor, plugs, fuel filter, not for this problem but because it was time. Any suggestions?

     

    Thanks,
  • fltrbgfltrbg Member Posts: 1
    Hello,I found this site while searching for answers to my customer's puzzling problem.I run a repair shop in Ontario Canada,and one of my clients came in yesterday with complaints of engine noise.When I checked it over,it was clear that all the lifters were collapsed.A check of oil pressure showed normal readings of 50 to 60 psi.We then flushed the crankcase,added fresh oil with fortifier,no better.Removedlifter boxes and found that all the lifters were in fact collapsed.

     My question is,is there a common problem causing restriction of oil pressure to the heads that I should be looking for?Thanks in advance,John Koning.Hamilton Ontario,Canada.
  • verdes3verdes3 Member Posts: 6
    Does anyone know where to get a service manual for the Quest? I need the wiring diagrams. I have a Haynes manual but need to know more about the wiring.

     

    Thanks,
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Nissan supposedly sells service manuals, but I didn't see anything earlier than '00. I didn't look very hard either though. Try this link:

     

    nissan-techinfo.com

     

    Steve, Host
  • wtd44wtd44 Member Posts: 1,208
    Public libraries often have the Mitchell Manual, and/or similar alternatives. You might want to check there for the information you want. I think you can copy the pages you need.
  • kymikekymike Member Posts: 115
    There are Quest service manuals for 1996 and 1997 on Ebay right now. The big changes didn't come until 1999, so I would think that either probably would work for you. I have the 1999 Villager manual and it has been very helpful to me.
  • verdes3verdes3 Member Posts: 6
    My van finally got to the point that the ignition power would not 'reset'. I took it to the local dealer and 45 minutes later the found a problem with the aftermarket alarm system. The alarm was supposedly deactivated when we bought it so it totally slipped my mind. Thanks to all who answered my posts and left tips. I did buy the Haynes manual for the Mercury Villager and it does look helpful. I think I will tackle the timing belt myself and a few other things the dealer pointed out. Thanks again.

     

    Tim
  • wtd44wtd44 Member Posts: 1,208
    I think you'll find the Haynes manual to be invaluable as a source of "crypto" procedure information. I have used the manual several times, noting that following the manual is likely a faster way to get something accomplished than working intuitively. An example was when the "low windshield washer fluid" light came on and stayed on, regardless of fluid levels in the reservoir. The manual told me where the sensor was located and how to get at it. I would have spent a lot of extra time without the book, to say the least.
  • kennyokennyo Member Posts: 1
    Yes I go the same problem. Ever since we got the car used the side door would sometimes make a delayed sound when using the power lock. I am ready to take it in. It never feels safe, especially not to passengers outside the family.
  • steine13steine13 Member Posts: 2,818
    Learned Friends,

    I have the opportunity to buy a '99 Villager (base) with 79k for a rather attractive price. I haven't had a chance to drive the car yet, but I've given it the once-over in the parking lot... so far, it fits the bill. No signs of paint work or frame repair, fairly clean, non-smoker, one owner, ... just a pretty nice van.

    Until I got to the oil filler cap. With some cars, you can't tell much because of all the baffles, but with others, you can really look at the valve train and see whether the oil was changed as required.

    The 3.0 in the Villager/Quest is different from anything I've ever seen. You CAN look into the head, but all you see is black. It's as if there were another complete lid over the valves, the top of which you can see through the oil filler. It appears to be the same material as the valve cover itself, i.e. black painted steel. Is this true?

    Secondly, there is a thin layer of black slime covering everything in there that I can reach. This is not a good sign, but I don't really know if it means anything, since this area does not appear to need any lubrication anyway. So if a film of oil just sits there, of course it's going to turn to sludge.

    When I pull the dip stick, the oil is old alright, but there is no waxy buildup on the stick or any other signs of crud. It just looks like it's high time for an oil change.

    If I buy this puppy, I'll have it checked out properly for engine wear. But I'd like to know what the heck I'm looking at. After 15 years of looking at used cars, I was under the impression I knew what to look for... but this thing has me stumped.

    Thanks in advance for any light y'all might be able to shed on this,
    -Mathias
  • aaron3aaron3 Member Posts: 1
    Has anyone heard ANYTHING about advantages or disatvantages of buying certain years of villagers/Quests? I've seen 98 have a better report in numerous consumer reports for some reason.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    The early ones had manifold bolt problems that are expensive to fix. I've heard that the problem went away in the '96 model year but some owners here had the issue. Issues with the '99 through '03 seem to be mostly electrical - phantom wiper switch and failing power window switches. Sticky throttles are common too, but an easy fix.

    Steve, Host
  • wtd44wtd44 Member Posts: 1,208
    They all require some maintenance, and repairs are usually pretty easy, provided you have the Haynes manual! Mine being a 2000, I'd feel fairly comfortable recommending that year and newer.
  • billyp67billyp67 Member Posts: 1
    My 96 villager all at once developed a problem, when I turn the car ignition to "off" the front defroster motor turns "on". Even if I havent been using the defroster/blowers ect this happends. If you turn the key forward from off just until ya get power to the systems the blower returns to off?? Anybody have any clue? Im no mr fix it as you could probably tell.. thanks in advance for any help!
  • cordeliacordelia Member Posts: 2
    I carried my Quest 97 in to Nissan dealership to fix a check engine problem and to change timing belt, tensioner and water pump. Old serpentine belt remained. Since the change there has been loud noise coming from the hood in the area. 3 mechanic friends said that the serpentine belt was adjusted too tightly but Nissan mechanics are saying the noise is normal and due to new timing belt and tensioner and will get quieter as belts are worked in. Does this make sense to anyone?

    Also since TPS switch was changed there is a rough shifting as van goes into higher gear. Nissan says the old switch was causing overlap of gears so they appeared to shift smoothly but with new TPS the gears shift right away hence apparent jerking.
    Is this true?
  • dhoffdhoff Member Posts: 282
    First of all, it probably would have made sense to replace the serpentine belt when having the timing belt done. The serpentine belt has to be taken off to do this, and it a $35 US part at most.

    Having said that, I think the Nissan mechanics may be trying to avoid some work. If the belts are making noise it is quite likely they are adjusted too tightly. The problem with this is, on this engine, if the belts are too tight your crankshaft can break.

    If I were you, I'd take your van back to the dealer that did the work and let them know that you aware of the potential of crankshaft breakage, and that they should readjust the belt tension so they don't have to pay for a new engine for you. Believe me, they are aware of this issue, and I'm surprised that they would suggest the belt would get quieter with age. Did your van make this noise when it was brand new? No. I just had my timing and serpentine belts replaced and they don't make noise.

    Regarding the TPS, it needs to be adjusted correctly or it will cause jerky shifting. There is a procedure listed in the service manual for this, but it takes some finesse to get it right. The explanation they are giving you on this is incorrect as well. I think you need to have a serious discussion with the service manager.

    Good luck, hope this helps.

    Dave
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    How much was your timing belt, Dave?

    Steve, Host
  • kelvinkelvin Member Posts: 1
    heater controls in the back do not work. It's not a fuse. Blower also does not work in the back. Any advice?? Thanks
  • dhoffdhoff Member Posts: 282
    I took it to a Nissan dealer and had the timing belt, accessory belts and water pump changed. They also put in new coolant and cam seals. It was around $750. I could have had the same work done at an independent garage for a few hundred less but since there are some "special" things about the Quest (like the importance of getting the belt tension correct, and the special procedure for bleeding the cooling system) I wanted to be sure it was done right.

    It's still running great with about 128,000 miles. Does have a few things that need attention though. A couple of the instrument lights are burned out (but the speedometer is still legible, thus the procrastination) and the washer fluid warning light is permanently on.

    I will probably fix the washer light situation once the weather warms up. The fix is to replace the washer fluid tank, the sensor is bad and can't be purchased separately. I told my wife "I don't think I want you to get used to driving the van with one of the idiot lights on. If the temperature or oil light came on you might not notice it". She gave me a strange look and said "Are you calling me an idiot?"

    I'm not sure I was able to convince her that is what they are called.

    Dave
  • dhoffdhoff Member Posts: 282
    It may be a bad connection on the circuit board of the rear control. I have heard of this before.

    Check out this link:

    http://home.earthlink.net/~vqfaq/

    Click on SUBTOPICS and you will find instructions complete with photographs of how to fix it, if you are so inclined.

    Dave
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    That's about two car payments. :-)

    Steve, Host
  • wtd44wtd44 Member Posts: 1,208
    The washer fluid low light is connected to a "seeing eye" that looks through the bottom of a side wall of the tank. When it fails to "see" fluid a circuit is completed and the dash light comes on. If you remove the seeing eye unit from the circuit, the circuit simply remains open pemanently, and the dash light is defeated. Mine has been off for months with no negative consequences, other than an unneeded idiot light being out of service. So! Just unplug the rascal and tell your wife she is certainly not a target of an idiot light! >;o]
  • dhoffdhoff Member Posts: 282
    Car payments... I remember those.

    Probably the end of summer/fall I will have to get rid of the Mazda 626 I've had the last couple of years. Decent looking car, got it for a great price, but it's been in the shop way too much for my taste. Hope to get a new Honda Accord, and it will probably come with a nice payment book.

    WTD, thanks for the advice. I'll give that a try.

    Dave
  • cordeliacordelia Member Posts: 2
    Thanks a heap Dave. We will be having a serious discussion with the service manager today.

    Cordelia
  • dhoffdhoff Member Posts: 282
    Let me know how it goes. It's best to go into these kinds of things with a respectful, but firm, attitude. At least to start. :-)

    Hope it goes well.

    Dave
  • ronnybronnyb Member Posts: 1
    My 93 Villager keeps stopping on me. It was in an accident (passenger side front panel) and since I got it back from the body shop it keeps blowing the "Eng Cont" fuse (#7 in fuse box). I can't figure out where the short is, any suggestions? Help, I'm desparate.
  • riswamiriswami Member Posts: 192
    I have a 98 Villager. I just had my timing belt replaced, new water pump, flushed and replaced coolant, two lower hoses (lower radiator and by pass), three belts and I had the brake fluid bled and replaced. I paid 424 for this service which I think is very reasonable. I had the timing belt replaced at a little less than 79k because of the age of the vehicle.

    Does the Quest have a serpentine belt. I can say for sure that a 98 Villager doesn't. I find it odd that the Quest would have a serp belt considering these vehicles are mechanical copies.
  • 03accord03accord Member Posts: 2
    I have a problem I hope ya'll can help with....

    I have a 99 villager and the problems occured in this order over a span of a couple of months:

    tachometer stuck, no longer works
    fuel gauge stuck on full (low fuel indicator also does not work)
    thermostat gauge stuck in middle

    I am not sure were problem is, but mercury dealer wanted $250 to take off instrument cluster just to check and said that it could cost as much as $425 if whole cluster needed to be replaced.

    Any ideas where I could start so I could repair myself? Thanks for any info!
  • wtd44wtd44 Member Posts: 1,208
    I would suggest that you locate and purchase the Haynes manual #64200. This will get you started toward a solution.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    I dunno - I have a '99 Quest with a sticky tach and I have the factory repair manual, and it hasn't been helpful in troubleshooting this issue.

    Steve, Host
  • corsicachevycorsicachevy Member Posts: 316
    Get this - I just had my van in for its 60,000 mile (actually 65,000) servicing and was told that my STOCK brake pads are only half worn out. That was a pleasant surprise given what many on this board have posted about premature brake wear.

    Kudos to my wife for taking it easy on the brakes!

    On a different note, my flip down screen decided to call it quits. Apparently it costs over $1000 to replace the unit, but the guys and my service center took a flyer on trying repair it themselves. None of them had ever taken one of these units apart, so it was unchartered territory for them. Once inside, they discovered two wires that appear to have been designed to stretch had failed. They spliced in a couple segments, put it back together and it worked!!

    Thank goodness, because I'm taking the family on trip to Florida for Easter and the absence of that screen would have made for a painful journey (Madison, WI to Englewood, FL).
  • sea93sea93 Member Posts: 1
    I'm getting a P1105 code every so often on my 99 Villager.
    What is this?
    The Ford list says its an alternator code.
  • fedup2fedup2 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 mercury villager, and auto zone told me i needed a knock sensor and a speed sensor, i looked in the service manual and preformed all test to see if they are ok... and they are.. but check engine light is still on when i went back to clear them out? i just want to know is there anything else to do before wasting the money on the parts...they are expensive....
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Try your local auto parts store - often they have the code books and will look stuff up for free.

    Steve, Host
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    I swapped out my passenger side CV axle last Thursday and so far the van hasn't collapsed by the side of the road. I had a friend (with tools) help me out and it seemed to go a lot easier with help. The part was $170 and I decided to replace the whole thing instead of just replacing the busted outer boot since the miles are getting up there.

    Steve, Host
  • steine13steine13 Member Posts: 2,818
    Steve,

    Congratulations on your axle replacement. I had the pleasure once; it's easy. IF you can get to it, and IF the bolts come undone as they should, and IF you don't have to bust the ball joints etc. apart just to get the maneuvering done. Ugh.

    While you're on a roll, would you mind peering through your oil filler cap and sticking you pinky in and telling me if there's a layer of sticky goo in there? Pretty please?

    I'm still interested in the Villager I posted about a couple weeks ago, and I'd like to know if the peculiar design of the valve cover makes oil appear sludgy.

    I'm starting with the assumption, of course, that you've done the proper oil changes :-)

    TIA,
    -Mathias
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Hey Mathias,

    The only IF that bugged us was that the part didn't arrive by UPS until 3 hours before I had to take my mechanic friend (and his tools) to the airport.

    On my way out to the garage just now, I told my wife that I was certain that I'd find goo on the cap. But I didn't - nor is there any that I can see or feel on the top of the engine through the filler hole. I must be thinking of our old Voyager. It always had a whitish, oft frothy goo in the filler cap (it liked to eat head gaskets too).

    So maybe I'm expecting whitish goo instead of some sort of oil film or shellac? Yours looked like old thick oil? Anyone else care to go exploring with their pinkies in their oil filler and report back?

    I change the oil every 7,500 miles on the Quest (as the manual says) and I'm about due for one - my last one was done in August '04.

    Steve, Host
  • steine13steine13 Member Posts: 2,818
    Steve,
    Thanks a bundle. Saved me the heartache to have the van checked out for $70 or so, only to find that I don't want it.
    I really appreciate it.
    -Mathias
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    I'm still editing - can you give more info describing your goo? And what does it tell you? I've never seen the sludged Siennas that got so much bad press.

    Steve, Host
  • steine13steine13 Member Posts: 2,818
    Steve,

    It's not "my" goo... it's a van I'd like to buy, but when I checked it out, I could tell the oil wasn't in very good shape.

    My Sienna is fine, and likely to stay that way... with all the baffling on the Toyota 3.0, though, there is no chance to tell if something is wrong. The only way is to remove the valve cover and look at the valve train directly. Not something a private seller will likely let you do in his driveway. If you look into the filler, you will always see some black, crusty, dry crud sitting on top of the baffle. It's the residue that just sits there after you put oil in. Looks bad. But they all do that. Really.

    Back to the Villager/Quest; the one I'm looking at (99 w/ 80k mi) has an all-black valve cover, making it hard to see inside. Even with a flashlight, though, what you see is the top of *another* cover, rather than the cams and lifters, as you would on a Ford, say. This cover is also black; painted steel or anodized Al; I assume the former.

    Anyway, in this particular van, there is a 1/8 or 1/16" layer of black gooey slime covering the metal surfaces you can reach from the oil filler cap. Not a confidence builder. When you pull the dipstick, the oil is still, uh, liquid, but it looks pitch black. The longest I've ever let one of my cars go was 6k, and it sure didn't look anything like that.

    I was just curious if the design of the valve cover made some oil just sit on top and gel. IOW, I wanted to know whether "they all do that".

    Apparerently not.

    Thanks again,
    -Mathias
  • shiftshift Member Posts: 10
    I HAVE A 1995 NISSAN QUEST WITH 112,500 MILES ON IT. I NOTICED ASMALL PUDDLE OF ANTIFREEZE ON THE FLOOR .LOOKS LIKE IT'S COMING FROM THE REAR OF THE ENGINE BY THE FIREWALL. A REPAIR SHOP DID PRESSURE CHECKS TWICE AND IT HOLDS PRESSURE FOR 30 MINUTES.HE SAID IT IS A BAD WATER PUMP BUT ID NOT BUY IT BEC WATER PUMP AND TIMING BELT WAS JUST REPLACED 28,000 MILES AGO. I NOTICED THIS AFTER I DROVE THE VAN OR SOMETIMES WHEN I'M WARMING UP THE ENGINE.
    THE COOLANT LOSS IS VERY MINIMAL. BUT I COULD SMELL ANTIFREEZE EVERY TIME.
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes Member Posts: 1,019
    Just because the water pump was replaced (and 28000 miles is quite a few) doesn't mean it's still good. Especially if it was a rebuilt one like most shops put in. I know people who've replaced rebuilt starters 2 or 3 times before finally going to the dealer for a new OEM part.
    2012 Mustang Premium, 2013 Lincoln MKX Elite, 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander.
  • kymikekymike Member Posts: 115
    I had a similar problem. It turned out to be a loose hose clamp on a coolant line where it enters the firewall on the passenger side of the engine. Leaks came when the vehicle was cold. Once the hoses heated up, they swelled up which kept them from leaking. If your vehicle was up to operating temperature when it was pressure-tested, no leaks may have been detected which led the mechanic to assume that your water pump was at fault.
  • kandmjkandmj Member Posts: 2
    I just got a 96 nissan quest van with a built in security system. I have lost the remote to the alarm. My little girl managed to set the alarm by playing with the door lock switch in the van. now I cant start the engine. I had to disconnect the battery to stop the alarm. any idea how to disable the security system? please help.
  • shiftshift Member Posts: 10
    Is this the heater hose with a loose clamp that you mentioned? i also check the water pump leak indicator by using an inspection mirror, I don't see any trace of coolant around that area.
  • kymikekymike Member Posts: 115
    Yes, the heater hose. I believe that there are two of them at the firewall. Sometimes easier to reach from below than from above.

    Good Luck!
  • nj_jcnj_jc Member Posts: 1
    Hi everybody:

    I have a 96 Villager. The light bulb in the climate control buttons went out. Can anybody tell me how to remove the panel surrounding the controls to change the bulb?

    Thanks NJ_JC
  • danparrydanparry Member Posts: 1
    I've had a sequence of problems lately with my '95 Nissan Quest, 170K miles. I left my lights on one day and when attempting to charge the battery my main fuse went. Couple weeks later the starter shorted and I had to replace that. Now it won't start and my mechanic tells me it is the timing belt. Has any experienced this sequence of repairs? I'm wondering if I'm at the end of a series of repairs or if they are going to keep on coming. How much has timing belt repair cost others?
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