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If any of your BMW dealers tell you that it can't be done, tell them to do more homework. Not only can it be done, but it is unbelievable.
--jk
http://www.ultimatecupholders.com/index.html
DB
I am contemplating the purchase of an 1991 BMW 735i with 186K miles, "but" it's absolutely immaculate. All maintenance was done at the BMW dealership and everything is documented. Including a brand new BMW transmission put in at 160K miles. It even smells like new inside... I never owned a 7-series before and I heard both horror stories and praises for them. This one looks beautiful and the maint. records are impressive. I don't know is what specific things I should look for in the maintenance logbook, or what particular items I should feel for in the test drive...
Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
S.T.
As for AUTOWEEK's comment about the car being poorly received at auto shows, that might have been true initially (by the press), but I've been to three auto shows in the last 3 months, and out of all it's competitors (A8, Q45, S Class, XJ and LS430), the 745 is drawing much more attention from the public. Given the success of the car I would only expect minor changes, if any.
DB
The biggest issue is BMW dealers! They tend to view previously-owned cars (non-certified) as 2nd class citizens. No loaner privlages (even under remaining factory warranty) and definitely a "you didn't purchase the car new , from us? attitude.
I've put 13k on the car in 5 months and have only had minor issues. However the 18" Z-rated tires are toast in about 15-18k and everyone I've spoken to has had the same experience. The car had brand new Michelin Pilot Sport A/S on it when I got it, they're a cool $1300 for a new set. Plus the staggered sizes prohibit rotation. The price of good handling and looks, I suppose.
Anyway, I'd strongly recommend anyone considering a smaller new BMW, 'Benz or Cadillac to check out the 87-01 7 series.
I love the car, but I experience this maddening glitch of the battery draining if the car sits for more than three days. Can anyone offer any insite on this? The dealership has replace the battery twice, and kept the car for a two day period to run diagnositics to determine if there existed some type of irregular draw on the battery. I was told the results were within normal spec range. When not being driven, the car sits in my garage without the alarm system engaged. My wife has a $50,000 SUV that has almost as many features as my 7 series, which can sit for weeks at a time with no adverse effect to the battery. In addition, I have a '75 3.0 Coupe which sits parked for months at a time. The dash mounted clock, which still keeps great time, doesn't kill off the battery in the car - at least not after two months of sitting. What am I missing?
Thanks,
JT
Thanks.
Thanks goose1207 for the tire info. They are great tires Dunlop Sport 16 inch. I would love the sport rims if I had them, but I don't. Anyone know where I can get these 17 for a good price.
I live in VA but I am negotiating for a 2000 740iL from a dealership in NY. The salesman is asking for $43,500 for the car with the following specs:
1 previous owner
Close to 20K miles,
Anthracite metallic with gray leather interior
Rear air bags
Cold weather package
Adaptive ride
Automatic
Electric rear shade
Active comfort seats
Parking distance control
18" alloy wheels
Certified pre-owned
Because of the distance, the car would be delivered for an additional $400. Now my question: is this a good deal?
Also, this is the first time that I am going to purchase a car from such a distance and hence do not get to test drive it before the actual purchase. If anyone has done so before, please share your experience with me. Thanks in advance.
Thanks for your advice. I am going to visit the dealerships today and I will consider the outcome seriously.
I almost bought a 3-series convertible off eBay last October but a friend of mine found a 7-series at the local ADESA auction for me so I bought that instead.
Thanks
Is this year of the 740il a good one? What problems with the engine/drivetrain should I be aware of? I'm going back to school for a second degree and don't want to also have to get a minor in auto repair...;-) thanks!
My concern is about the annual maintenance costs for the car compared to a Japanese car that requires oil changes only for the most part.
How are the maintance costs (ballpark)? Insurance? Other concerns vs buying a new 30k Japanese car?
Thanks.
Most of the cars that I've owned in the past have been Japanese but the sheer enjoyment that I get from driving the 740 outweighs the concern of having to replace a few parts.
If I were in your shoes and opted for the TL-S, I would get it used and save $10k --they have been selling for approx. $19k wholesale.
In my opinion, the maintenance costs are about the same. The Inspection I (oil change) can range anywhere from $50-$100 depending on the dealer. It takes 8 quarts of synthetic. However, you will not be changing the oil every 3000 miles. The BMW Maintenance Indicator will tell you when it's time. It calculates this based on the type, amount and driving conditions. Based on my personal experience, it goes a lot more than 3000 miles before you need to change it.
The Inspection II runs about $600 or so at the dlr here in Boston. That is usually done every 30k miles. I use a good independent mechanic and he charges me half of that. This encompasses:
BMW Inspection II
Includes all items listed under Inspection I.
Undercarriage
Change oil and oil filter while engine is at normal operating temperature.
Check transmission for leaks.
Check rear axle for leaks.
Visually check fuel tank, lines and connections for leaks.
Check condition, positioning, and mounting of exhaust system. Examine for leaks.
Check power steering system for leaks. Check p/s fluid level; add fluid if necessary.
Check overall thickness of front and rear disc brake pads using special tool. If replacement is necessary:
Examine brake disc surfaces. Clean and brake pad contact points in calipers.
Grease wheel centering hubs.
Check thickness of parking brake linings only when replacing rear pads.
(7 Series Note: applies to 740i/iL beginning 9/96 production)
Remove and install front and rear disc brakes, check overall thickness. Examine brake disc surfaces. Clean brake pad contact points in calipers. Grease wheel centering hubs.
(7 Series Note: applies to all 750iL, and 740i/iL thru 8/96 production.
Check steering for absence of play, condition of suspension track rods, front axle joints, steering linkage and joint disc.
Check brake and clutch system connections and lines for leaks, damage, and incorrect positioning.
Check for free movement of the parking brake cables. Adjust parking brake if necessary.
Check all tire pressures (including spare). Correct if necessary. Check condition of tires (outer surfaces [left/right]), tread wear and pattern; in case of uneven tread wear readjust wheel alignment if requested.*
Note: If requested rotate all four road wheels as instructed and rebalance.*
Check thickness of parking brake linings
7 Series Note: Applies to all 750iL, and 740i/iL thru 8/96 production.
Half-shafts: Check for leaks at flexible boots.
Inspect entire body according to terms of rust perforation limited warranty (must be performed at least every two years).
Engine Compartment
Read out diagnostic system.
Check engine cooling system/heater hose connections for leaks. Check coolant level and antifreeze protection level; add coolant if necessary.
Note: Coolant must be replaced every 3 years (time interval begins from vehicle production date).
Check level of brake and clutch fluid in reservoir. Add fluid if required.
Replace brake fluid every 2 years (timing interval begins from vehicle's production date).*
Check windshield washer fluid level and antifreeze protection. Fill up and/or correct if necessary.
Check air conditioner operation.
Reset Service Indicator.
Replace spark plugs.
Replace intake air cleaner element.
Note: Reduce replace interval in dusty operating conditions.
Body/Electrical Equipment
Check battery electrolyte level and add distilled water if required.
Perform battery load test.
Check lighting system, i.e., headlights, foglights, parking, back-up, license-plate, interior (including map reading lights), glove box, flashlight, illuminated make-up mirrors, luggage compartment lights.
Check instrument panel and dashboard illumination.
Check all warning/indicator lights, check control.
Check turn signals, hazard warning flashers, brake lights, horns, headlight dimmer/flasher switch.
Check wipers and washer system(s);wiper blades, washer jet positions.
Check condition and function of safety belts.
Oil hood, trunk/tailgate and door hinges. Grease hood, trunk/tailgate and door latches. Check operation of all latches.
Check central locking/double lock.
Replace batteries for alarm remote controls in all vehicle master keys.
Replace microfilter.
Note: reduce replacement interval in dusty operating conditions.
Check heater/ air conditioner blower, rear window defogger.
Check rear view mirrors.
Visually examine the SRS airbag units for torn covers, obvious damage or attachment of decals, decorations or accessories.
Final Inspection
Road test with check of brakes, suspension, steering, clutch/manual transmission or automatic transmission.
With 95% highway driving, the oil life indicator lights at about 15k, makes the 59.95 Synthetic oil change easy to stomach
Highway driving nets 21 mpg at approx 75-80 mph. Much better than I thought
Alignment is critical, mine was slightly out and began to cup the front tires at 10k.
The 18" wheel/tire combination looks and handles great, but is expensive and offers short life-span. The Pilot Sport A/S's on my car are about shot after 21k, the staggered size prevents rotation which would help greatly. Replacement shoes are about a thousand bucks!
The original front brake pads wore out and the indicator light came on after 45k. The rotors on these cars cannot be resurfaced, new rotors, pads, sensor and assorted hardware were about $450.
For a 70k car with beautiful appointments, the stereo sucks! My wife's Caravan with the Chrysler/Infinity system blows the BMW away.
Look for a good dealer, Athens BMW in Athens GA has been helpful but is small, sometime hard to get a service appointment. United BMW in Atlanta took the car with no appt., changed oil, aligned and installed new front brakes in 1 day, plus the car was detailed nicely upon return!
The 7 series is an absolute freight train on the highway. Fast, stable, secure and extremely comfortable. My dad's Lexus LS400 isn't even close on the highway.
If buying used, the newer the better. Up until about '96, BMW had a problem with the original equipment engine blocks which were made out of Alusil, apparently the sulfur content in U.S. gasoline ate these blocks alive from the inside out. Some blocks failed in as littel as 30k! BMW replaced many of these engines with a newly designed block made from Nikasil, a different aluminum process. The '97 and forward cars had these blocks as well. No reported problems. If a pre-'97 car interests you, make sure the engine was replaced or your looking at a 10k job!
Happy Motoring!
Those 18" tires do come at a price. The standard 16" H-rated ones are half the price, and do not wear as fast. I still have the original MXV "green" tires on mine, although I plan to replace them this summer. The ride is another issue; my dealer gave me a ride to my office in an 01 (with sport wheels) when my car was in for service, and I was turned off by the jarring ride over rough pavement compared to mine with the standard 225-60 16 inchers. The sports look great and may handle a tad better, but the cost and degraded ride make them a tradeoff decision.
Using a dealer vs another repair shop is an option owners might look at for repairs. Personally, I'll take mine to the dealer for most problems and pay extra, but there are some items I'd have no qualms getting attended to elsewhere. The brakes are an example. The parts are surprisingly reasonable..
I have the DSP with CD changer option on mine. I like the quality just fine, but at a $2k option price some might not be overwhelmed.
Fuel milage on mine has been good. I get about 17 knocking around locally, and 21-24 on trips. Not bad for a 4200lb car.
DB
The 01 has the M sport package and is listed for $30,000, and the 98 is listed for $26,000. Your help is appreciated.
Questions:
Would replacing the engine mounts do anything to increase the life of an otherwise mechnically degraded block?
Would more frequent oil changes potentially extend the existing life of the engine block?
Would limiting the daily driving distance to 30 miles or less potentially extend the existing life (i.e., not allowing the engine to heat to critical temperature)?
Is replacement cost really 12k$? Any feasible cheaper alternatives?
BMW replaced some engine computers enabling higher operating temperatures. I don't know if this was done on my vehicle becasue it is third-hand? Would replacing this item potentially solve the rough-idle?
Given that my vehicle is starting to show wear on cylinders 5 & 8 and I now have 135k mles, how rapidly might complete engine breakdown occur - could I potentially have another 75k miles usable life remaining or, lucky to see 20k miles?
Using higher grade gas (93 octane) was suggested - would this likely extend the engine life given current degradation?
Feeling fiscally fustrated.
Your quest to find a rebuilt/used engine is probably your best bet, but at some point you may want to consider whether you want to spend more on the car in repairs than it's worth.
DB