Chevrolet Cavalier

vinnyny · July 2003

It was a matter of timing and cost. I'm in the Air Force and I got orders to move. The gov't only pays to ship 1 car, so I sold my Tahoe and traded the Cav and saved a couple thousand bucks. The Cav was the obvious choice to trade because it was messed up. The Trib is still small enough for my daughter to drive while being big enough to carry our luggage. I miss the Tahoe already...

shawnc2 · July 2003

I wanted to thank hoyahenry for the step by step instructions for changing the resistor. I also had to change my door. I have a 97 RS and used a 97 Z-24 door and everything fit, and it was even the same color. Good luck to all the other DIY's.

zerospace · July 2003

Ok, first time poster. I've looked at messages here for a long time, and turn to you knowledgeable people for help; or to tell me its all my fault. I bought a 2002 Cavalier in June of 2002. I had worked with an Internet sales person, who had, after the 3000$ rebate they had going at the time, agreed to the price of 10,500 for a brand new Cavalier. Not too shabby. I get to the dealership, with my fiancee in tow, and talk to a sales rep; same price. I still have the documents on this. I drive it, like it. Underpowered, but it works. So my fiancee and I go to meet with the finance person. We both go over the documents, sign everything. I have bad credit, so I was paying out the rear for the car. But this month I go and review the documents on my car, and realize I actually financed 14,000. When signing at the time, neither my fiancee or myself caught the $3,500 markup. I realize it was my first car purchase, and I am much smarter now; but nieve at the time. Needless to say, my faith in that dealership, and GM overall is a bit shaken now. My question: What, if any, recourse do I have in this matter? Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

venus537 · July 2003

there's a section called "truth in lending disclosures" common to all finance agreements that's required by law that spells out in a clear and concise matter the amount finance. how did you miss it? if you don't have it i guess it's only a state law (WI).

you can't blame GM for this, every manufacturer has dealers that are "bad apples".

hoyahenry · July 2003

Great to know that you found it helpful.

In thinking about it again, please note that I skipped some of the standard electrical and airbag safety steps, like disconnecting the ground cable from the battery. (Probably because I didn't....

but anway.)

vinnyny · August 2003

Was $14,000 the "Amount Financed" or was that the "Total of Payments"? If it was the amount financed, did you assign the rebate to the dealer?

jd43 · August 2003

Car idles at a high speed between 2000 -3000
rpms. Especially when starting car and in park.
Idling drops to about 1000 rpms when in drive.

Would appreciate any help in determining problem.

Thanks.

joe3891 · August 2003

Have the TPS checked out.

jd43 · August 2003

Thanks for the response Joe.

Sorry, but what is the TPS?

Thanks.

joe3891 · August 2003

Throttle position sensor,it lets the computer know how much you have your foot into it.Its located on the throttle body assy,opposite the end of the shaft where the cable attaches.It can be checked with a DVOM [Digital Volt Ohm Meter]

hoyahenry · August 2003

Occasionally, while driving along - 97 cav LS (2.2l, 4 speed o/d auto) I'll be approaching to a stop and remove my foot from the pedal. RPM will drop to 12-1500. Normal.

Then, a couple of seconds later it will dive to idle 600-800 and then jump back up to 12-1500. It will seesaw from there, oscillating every couple of seconds, at which point I'm usually stopped and the idle stopped RPM remains displayed.

There is no audible change in engine tone (like a hiccup before a stall), or lurching from the transmission.

I've been ignoring it, but the TPS comments got me thinking. It doesn't happen during normal cruise travel, just when the throttle input is released. Any thoughts on that one?

joe3891 · August 2003

That discription of slowing down when coming to stop the idle fluctuates is normal,my 94 did it and my 00 also.

hoyahenry · August 2003

Just to be clear, this just started happening about 6 months ago or so.

In case I was not clear, the car is moving in gear at 25 mph, but the RPMs can decline all the way to 550 (below idle actually) and then jump up to between 12-1500, then back down to 550, then up to 1100 (speed is now ~20 mph).... Once stopped, they usually hold at 650-700.

I would only expect the RPMs to decline to idle while the car is moving if the transmission were disengaged by moving the selector to neutral.

I'm suspicious this is not an engine/tranny issue, but more of an electrical issue. The drivetrain is fine, but the readings are off, electrically.

There may be no connection, but I think this started happening after the ignition harness was replaced on recall. hmmmm.

joe3891 · August 2003

If no change in engine sound or feel it is a tach problem.

hoyahenry · August 2003

I appreciate the input.

zerospace · August 2003

sorry, I hadnt checked this in awhile.

vinny: it was the amount financed, and I didnt sign the rebate to the dealer. I dont believe so anyway.

If only I knew of Edmunds before I started car shopping

cosmo485 · September 2003

I have a 96 chev cavalier 2.2 engine. There is an intermittent squealing noise coming from around the drive belts. I was told it's not the alternator bearings. The belts are tight and the pulleys have been greased. I noticed that when I turn on the air conditioning it stopped. Anybody have any suggestions?

hoyahenry · September 2003

One guess is that some grease/oil got on the belt, but the symptom that the problem goes away when the compressor is engaged does not support that theory.

When was the accessory drive belt last replaced?

Could the noise be emanating from the compressor?

joe3891 · September 2003

that you have a bad compressor pulley bearing,the pulley rides on the bearing until the clutch is engaged.

cosmo485 · September 2003

Assuming it is a bad compressor pulley bearing, what would be the cheapest way of going about fixing the problem?

joe3891 · September 2003

clutch and replace the bearing,the catch is you need special tools to remove the clutch.Also you will not loose any freon when you remove the clutch.
I don't know how you are with mechanics so it might be best you have a shop do it.

cosmo485 · September 2003

Would it be possible to put a shorter belt on, bypassing the a/c altogether and still heat the car?

vocus · September 2003

Probably not, as the AC cuts on automatically when using the defrost and recirc modes in the Cavalier. You might cause some problems by replacing old parts with parts not originally meant for the car.

valerie81057 · September 2003

Hello I'm looking to buy a new/used car and I really like the 2003 Cav model...I'm wondering if anyone has one and would be willing to take the time to tell me if you have complaints or concerns about the car or the same with a 2002 cav. Thanks

vocus · September 2003

I took my car in for an oil change this past Wednesday, and Enterprise gave me an 02 Cavalier sedan (darn). The car had 28K miles on it, base model sedan with automatic. The rotors were warped, making the whole car shake when braking. This is to be expected though, being an abused rental car and all.

The power wasn't too bad, and the AC was nice and cold. However, that's where the good ended. The interior was dark, cramped, and uncomfortable. Every time I sat in the driver's seat, I could feel my body hitting its frame (definitely needs more padding). It was loud and brash on the highway. The entire interior rattled when hitting seemingly small bumps in the road, which also made the suspension bottom out. The tires squealed when cornering as well.

It's beyond me how Chevy even still manages to sell this car. Then I see that the rebates are up to $5000 now, so it makes sense.

hoyahenry · September 2003

Cavs go from point a to point b on a reliable basis, or the one I have has for me these last 6+ years. It only goes to the dealer for an occasional recall since I can do all of the PM on it (i.e., it's easy to maintain).

The Pioneer DEH-P77DH smooths out the road noise, even with the stock speakers. I have an LS, so the 4speed/OD auto smooths out and reduces the road noise more than the standard auto tranny, imho.

caesarslegion · September 2003

I think the cavalier has a unfair stigma attached to it. Sure you can get a lemon anything but the new 2003 model is a nice looking car imho. The new eco motor gets good reviews along with more power. I hope with the rebates I might get one for $11k or so.

vocus · September 2003

Sorry, have to disagree there man. Drive ANY other small car on the market right now and you will see a huge difference between it and a Cavalier. I guess the large rebates nowadays are what makes them sell.

Hoya: This did have the 4-speed auto and traction control in it. The powertrain was nice, but the suspension, handling, interior, and durability sucked.

dindak · September 2003

Rebates are selling them, but I think they do get a bad rap sometimes. The power plant is thoroughly modern and the car has been freshened a bit. The car is VERY old in design so one has to consider that when looking at it. GM needs that Cobalt ASAP.

I saw today that the new Daewoo Chevys are priced and coming. Perhaps they are a good stop gap till the Cobalt comes.

hoyahenry · September 2003

Drive ANY other small car on the market right now and you will see a huge difference

That also comes at a 50% premium. According to Edmunds, the list of vehicles in that class are as follows:

Neon
Focus
Civic
Accent
Elantra
Rio
Spectra
Protege
Lancer
Sentra
ION
Aerio
Forenza
Corolla
Echo

The Mazda, Toyota and Honda are probably the best of the competitors, but none of them are available in an LS equivalent trim for under $15K.

The cars may not feel durable, but my long term experience with two of them is otherwise.

As for the other attributes, I look at it this way: I can go from point A to point B (commute) for 6+ years in a $10K car, or in a $15K car. It boils down to perceived aethetics versus raw economics.

fish8 · September 2003

Where's the VW Jetta on the above list?

vocus · September 2003

Neons, Lancers, Rios, and Aerios are all coming at big discounts right now. If I had a choice to pay $12K for a Cavalier LS or to pay $13K for an Aerio or Neon, I would definitely go for one of the latter. Even the Neon is a fairly new design (2000 model year) and has better crash scores than the Cavalier. They also come with a longer powertrain warranty as well.

The Lancer has a $2000 rebate right now, meaning you could probably get one for $15k or so. You would pay a little more, but the car is light years ahead of the Cavalier in refinement, space, and comfort IMO.

The Cavalier is a nice car if you're just running around town or commuting a short distance in it. I commute 80 miles daily, and the Cavalier would kill me because it's too uncomfortable to drive personally. To each his own I guess.

hoyahenry · September 2003

The VW is not on the Edmunds list of under 15K sedans.

hoyahenry · September 2003

I agree that the Cavalier would likely be a no sale for most 80 mile per day commuter requirements - unless one drives illegally with ear protection.

vocus · September 2003

Actually, the noise levels in the car didn't really bother me. What did bother me was the sitting-on-the-floor driving position (I am 6'3 and am used to my PT's higher-up stance now), the limited room inside, and the cheap feeling of everything from the doors' way of closing to the interior that felt like it would break off in my hands if I were too rough with it.

hoyahenry · September 2003

What did bother me was the sitting-on-the-floor driving position (I am 6'3 and am used to my PT's higher-up stance now),

Isn't that a problem for almost every car in the class? Is that really an issue unique to the Cavalier?

the limited room inside

The 96 body design is roomier than the earlier one. Again, is there a car in the class that is roomier? (seriously, researching that on 15 cars is time-consuming.)

and the cheap feeling of everything from the doors' way of closing to the interior that felt like it would break off in my hands if I were too rough with it.

Well, maybe the 2002s+ are different, but the 97 has been durable in this regard. I think the chintzy material is GM standard, up to at least the $33K Montana.

vocus · September 2003

Not every car in the class has that legs-splayed-out stance as the Cavalier does. Sit in a new Protege, Civic, Elantra, or Lancer and you will see what I mean. It just seems the seats are very close to the floor, and when you're tall it really kills thigh support for you.

Also, the Cavalier is pretty roomy for the fact that it's almost 10 years old in its current design. It's not airy inside though, like the cars listed above or even Toyota's Echo.

The 96s are not durable in the regard of the interior. My best friend has one, and it's a total rattle trap. A 1998 base coupe I test drove felt the same way, and this was about 3 months ago. Maybe it is a GM thing, but it's unacceptable nonetheless.

hoyahenry · September 2003

It was a good discussion, but I don't have much to further it. Just a comment rather than just letting it trail off....

dolphan456 · September 2003

I recently purchased a 2000 Cavalier 4-door LS (4sp. auto). The previous owner flat towed the car. Does anyone know if the odometer (digital readout) registers mileage when the car is towed in neutral? The car has 48,000 miles on it, but I am not sure if that is actual mileage.

vocus · September 2003

If all 4 wheels were touching the ground when the car was being towed, then the mileage will add up from that.

pulgo · September 2003

Right now in British Columbia it is possible to purchase this car for $ 8740 plus taxes, or $ 10000. Not a bad deal IMHO.
Using a GM Visa I could take another $ 1000 off that, making it an even better deal.
I'm willing to bet that the car would go 200k miles with few mechanical problems.

Would I like driving that car? H..ll no!

voyager20 · September 2003

I am a Chevy Cavalier owner of both a 1993 LS and 1997 4 door sedan. I have to tell you that I had more problems with the 97 than the 93. I had the transmission, head gasket, and water pump replaced within 2 years. My 93 has close to 180,000 miles on it and most of the parts replaced were due to old age. The 93 is faster and I get close to 40 mpg on the highway!!! (I once drove from Cedar Point, OH to Browns Mills, NJ and still had a quarter tank left or 563 miles!!) I just wish the 93 had more room in the back, because in essence it's a 2 seater! So I can relate to some of the other owner's problems and gripes, but it also depends on how alert the builders were the day that particular car was built, if you have a great running vehicle you probably had all the assembly people awake, alert, and on the ball! If you had problems think that you may have gotten the "5:30, last of the cars for the day, on a Friday" ! In other words they wanted out and only half their hearts were in it, and despite that most line are automated, some human interaction is needed to "tweek" the fine tuning or tightning before sent of the assembly line. I now have a brand spanking new 2004 and I love it, and I want to see if my babying it from day one with "over maintaining" it will make a difference, but so far it's been the best of both worlds the roominess of my 1997 and the power, agility, comfort of my 1993. So lets hope the Ecotec engine is the dream that it has been so far!

vocus · September 2003

Believe it or not, most people I know with Cavaliers (including myself, in the past) have had trouble with the new ones. Mine was loaded with rattles, and needed the engine computer reprogrammed due to a CEL that wouldn't go out at 34K miles.

A friend still has a 1996 2-door with 135K that has been through $1000s in repairs, including a brand new transmission at 100K, ignition, fuel injector, water pump, and a couple batteries.

Someone else I know blew 3 head gaskets within 10K miles in their Cavalier with less than 70K miles on it. The person finally dumped it and got something else, getting tired of repairing the car every time they turned around.

The current Cavaliers are a throwback to the 80s in the small car class. They are uncomfortable, unreliable, and unsafe. The only good thing about them seems to be the Ecotec engine.

joe3891 · September 2003

what are you doing on this site.

hoyahenry · September 2003

Whoa. Unreliable and unsafe? You make it sound like they're Yugos or Pintos.

In my experience, Cavaliers are quite reliable. In the first one, we paid for a clutch, struts, and an alternator.

There have been no repairs on the 97 except for regular maintenance items, most of which occur at 5 years (plugs, wires, coolant, tranny fluid (based upon where I live), etc.).

As for safe, I've had to execute emergency maneuvers in both vehicles I've owned (on snow and in heavy rain) and the handling with ABS (standard equipment) and OEM tires was exceptional.

Now the IIHS doesn't think much of the Cav, but the NHTSA shows it to be about, to above, average. I think one will find that most GM vehicles fail to get the highest marks.

dindak · September 2003

I would have to disagree with your comments.

While I think the current Cavalier is very dated, it's not unreliable and it generally carries an "average" rating in magazine reliability ranks. Powertrian is solid as a rock.

We leased a 99 with the old powertrian for 3 years and had 1 trip to the shop for a rear end rattle which turned out to be a faulty shock.

vocus · October 2003

A friend still has a 96 base coupe with the 3-speed auto tranny. His has blown an ignition, a transmission, fuel injector, and head gasket since he has had it. Also, the paint on the hood is peeling off now. It's got about 136K on it, but I still think it would have held up better than it did.

I saw on CarsDirect.com that the leftover 03 Cavaliers have a $4500 rebate on them. I guess that's pretty good, since a loaded LS Sport would end up costing about $15K loaded, if you're willing to compromise on the aging chassis and safety as compared to other cars in this class. I bet a used 01-03 would be even cheaper if you could find it. Beware of resale value on the new ones, and definitely buy GAP insurance on any of them or you will lose your shirt if you car's totalled anytime soon.

rae52 · October 2003

14,000 miles and 1.5 years later, ALL IS WELL with my '02 Cav LS automatic!!! Anybody else care to share experiences with their late-model cavs?

stooges3 · October 2003

My daughter owns a Z-24. She is finally going to sell it and let someone else take over the headaches that this car has caused. She had the engine rebuilt at 70,000 miles for $2800 and just recently had the transmission rebuilt to the tune of $2500. Now she has ignition problems that the tranny dealer claims he didn't do. (The car started fine before he touched it.) Maybe someone had a similar problem. Every couple of starts the starter clicks like it has a weak battery, then after several tries it starts up fine.

chispas · November 2003

My 2002 Cavalier has the 2.2L and 4 speed automatic.

Sorely needed was a drain plug on the transaxle for routine fluid changes. (Nine quarts of Dextron is hard to drain - and messy - without a drain plug.)

A 1 1/2" X 1 1/2" X 1/4" thick piece of steel was welded to the pan by a professional weld shop. Then I drilled and tapped for a 3/8" tapered pipe plug.

Whoops. The weld had a flaw, and the transaxle
leaked badly.

After removing the pan again, I went to a different weld shop for the fix.

The second weld shop explained what the problem
had been. It was the galvanized coating on the
pan. This makes it extremely difficult to weld
either with a torch or electric weld.

At the second weld shop they even tested the pan
for 24 hours by filling it with oil and letting
it sit. This to insure that their repair was
good.

I'm sure glad that I didn't try to use my amateur
welding talents. I had no idea what a coating of
galvanize would cause.

Chevrolet Cavalier

Comments

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles