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Meade
thanks
Other than ck1999 informing me he has the same problem, is there anyone out there that might have a solution to this problem? You have a couple of prople out here looking for a solution. Thanks!!! :confuse:
http://www.parttrackers.com/library/1/24/50/
Scroll down to the third from last paragraph
Just slide under your car (or put it up on ramps) and give all those joints a good spray! Why pay someone a premium to do this? You'll pay about $6 for the can of grease. Just one thing -- give the underside of the car a good washing first and let it dry before doing it. That way you'll ensure you don't trap any grit in those joints when you lube them. (And, er, the Lube Job guy won't even do that for ya!)
Meade
How many miles are on the car?
At any rate, when you slide under the car, take a look at them. If they look cracked or split, then they probably do need replacing. But I'd try this first -- it'll be a lot cheaper. Usually you can tell when ball joints are worn out because you'll get a "clunking" noise when you go over bumps, and your steering wheel will react harshly to minor bumps in the road. If you're just getting a squeak, they probably just need to be lubed.
Meade
Another question, this is on a 1998 Z24. Are these not supposed to be lubed by the dealer when I go in for a lube and oil change??
I'm restoring a 1986 Cavalier RS ragtop. Has anybody of this forum done a similar model and year? I'm wondering how hard it is to find some of the exterior trim and emblems.
I'm thinking of sending the 2.8 L engine out for rebuilding but haven't decided yet. There is a local hot rod shop that works on J-Bodies. I know the weather striping on the doors and windows cost a lot so I'll wait until I get the top replaced.
Any advice welcomed.
Grant
Good luck!
Meade
If you feel a wet carpet mat, your car is leaking like both of my 2005 Cavaliers.
Under the bumper skin on the passenger side, you can slide your hand under it and feel along the quarter panel, you'll find what GM calls the pressure relief valve. It is a hole in the body to allow air to escape when slamming the doors. It also helps with ventilation.
Anyway, GM uses a plastic grid popped into that rectangle (maybe 6x8 inch) hole and the grid has 2 rubber flaps on it. The idea is air can push the flap out from inside the car, and then it covers the hole any other time.
The idea failed
Driving the car in the rain results in those rubber flaps opening, and the kicked up rain spray from that passenger rear tire just tosses water into the trunk. I had a few inches standing water in the spare tire well after a 300 mile drive in heavy rain one weekend.
I'm not sure if only freeway driving (55mph+) is allowing enough wind to open those flaps, or if they are opened when the heater is on, or what exactly makes them open or stay open, but my 2 door does it, and my brothers 4 door does it.
I did notice that the flaps are not supported. Normally, there is a plastic grid or skeleton over top of the flaps, to assist them in staying closed. This GM unit does not have that, and the flaps open VERY easily compared to other cars I have seen.
I'm not sure if there is a recall or not, but there probably will be, the trunks will rust out before the warranty is up....GM won't want to pay for that, when a newly designed part can be installed instead.
Oh, I posted here and not in Repair because it wouldn't let me, it kept saying I wasn't logged in, but I was, and was able to post in Sedans, so there you go.
Broke
I own a 2005 Cavalier (2dr) and noticed while cleaning the trunk, only a few weeks after I bought the car, that there was some water in the bottom of the spare tire well. At the time I tought that this may have been caused by condensation, and simply wiped the water off. However, after reading your message today I checked the carpet on the right (passenger) side of the trunk and found out that the carpet is soaked with water and already starting to smell musty. I didn't notice any water anywhere esle under the carpet. There is likely water again in the spare tire well; will check it out tonight after work.
I agree that the condition will lead to serious corrosion problem and that it is in GM advantage to remediate the situation as soon as possible. Particularly where I live where road salt is used up to five months per year. I will report the finding to the dealer as soon as possible and try to get this problem fix. The carpet remaining wet could also result in the formation of mold and mildew, which could also become a health issue.
I have been unable to find anything like what you describe, in the location mentioned, on my 2005 Cavalier Coupe. Can you describe the location any better for me?
I have had no water show up in the trunk.
Any good suggestions? A diagram or actual photo would be excellent [ I could reply by email if necessary]
Thanks a lot.
Here is a picture taken inside the trunk, showing the inside of the passenger rear fender area. You can see the dirty water trail leading into the spare tire well. The link is http://home.btconnect.com/i-taylor/start/Broke/chevy/147_4787s.jpg in case the img tags don't work or something.
To find it on the outside of the car, it is under the bumper skin, right as the skin starts to curve around the back of the car, near the top of the skin. If you lay down beside the car, and stick your arm up under the skin, and feel around, you'll find the square valve and feel the 2 rubber flaps that cover it.....or should cover it anyway
When you open the trunk, and get to the spare tire, follow those 2 body channels to the right and you'll find the valve.
If there wasn't a lot of rain kicked up, it might have simply been absorbed by the sound dampening material, and not collected in the spare tire well.
Broke
It is the black rectangle under the tail light corner where it wraps around, behind the back tire, the skin would normally cover the valve....
And in this pic you can almost make out the 2 rubber flaps on it....
Broke
Two days later, it happened again under the same circumstances. This time it started back up -- I put some fuel cleaner in it in case it was water in the lines, and it worked fine for two more days. Once again, same circumstances, but with a check engine light. So the computer told them that the #1 cylinder was misfiring. They replaced all spark plugs and wires. Once again, I picked it up and it ran just fine until the next morning. ONCE AGAIN - same thing happened.
This time, they decided that there was a vacuum leak in the throttle body. So they replaced it. I just picked it up and drove it around. Same thing happened again. I am really, really frustrated.
It only happens once the car has warmed up. And it has only happened on the interstate at about 65-70 mph. The RPM's drop even more when you push on the accelerator. I have a new throttle body, spark plugs, wires and fuel filter and have spent nearly $1000.00. I'm sorry that this post seems really redundant - but this has been my situation for the last 2 weeks. If anyone has seen this situation or has any ideas about what could be happening, I would appreciate the advice. Thanks. :mad:
a super charger on her. Advice or comments greatly welcomed
That bumper-damaged Cavalier has to be a 2002 or older model, so that "pressure relief valve" has been in use for a long time without resulting in any TSBs.
Without removing the trunk "carpeting" (liner), I was able to pull the top of the liner out far enough to see the grill that is part of the "pressure relief valve". I felt all around that area and found no sign of moisture (I will try this again sometime after a high-speed run through a rain storm). Reaching up from under the car I found that there is only one rubber flap on my 2005 Cavalier, about two by eight inches in size (and it is slightly slanted so that gravity will help close the flap).
The water thrown up from the rear tire should be contained by the fender liner. And it is difficult to see how water can even reach the location of that valve. I am not trying to minimize the water damage you have obviously suffered, I am just trying to understand how it could have happened.
What does your dealer say about this? It seems to me this should be his problem, not yours.
I wans't sure of that wrecked model year...honestly, this GM was a gift, I am a VW person, with half a dozen MK2 cars (1985-1992)....they leak like a sieve, but I know why, and the problem is easily corrected. :shades:
I thought the rooster tails would be contained by the plastic liner as well, but I simply have no other explanation for the water. Nothing has been in the trunk, and no seals are damaged, or anything that would offer any reason to the wet sound dampening material.
Checking my brothers 2005 4-door, I found the same thing. I was nearly positive it is a GM problem, but wanted to see if other folks had the same issues (so far, one other 2005 owner mentioned water in the new car trunk).
I took the car to the dealer for the 1st oil change and mentioned the problem, asking if anyone else had reported it, and the guy commented that they hear everything, and when pressed, he said one lady closed the trunk lid on top of something laying over the seal, and it allowed water in, but nothing else had been reported.
I don't think the rooster tail itself is being directly thrown at the valve, but if my hand can reach it, water is going to as well. If the flaps are being held open with wind, even a light mist will eventually collect on the flaps and plastic grid, dripping down into the car. I'm guessing short trips in light rain would be OK, but the 150 mile trip (roughly) to Kentucky during the 3 hours of heavy rain was enough that I noticed the wet spot in the trunk after arriving to KY. It had gotten the sound material wet enough to soak upwards showing a dark wet spot on the carpet itself. There was a good bit of standing water in the spare tire well a few days later, when I had the car apart to replace the bumper skin and taillights.
For now, I have sealed the flaps up with some black sealing goo tape I found laying around the body shop, I believe it is actually for sealing ducting....anyway, it was used to seal the grid into the body, and a few pieces were used to seal the flaps themselves to the grid.
I would post a pic of this, but to be honest, it looks like garbage and very amatuer, so, no posty the pic
It does the job of keeping the wet out it seems, I dried the liner before putting the car back together and so far it is OK. I will check tonight, it is raining now, and the wife will be driving it home about 30 miles in just a few minutes.
I wish I had a pic of the valve BEFORE the ugly seal was installed, but I didn't have the camera at the body shop that night. The next day I took it, and snapped a pic before the skin was installed.
Really, the ugly seal was the body shop owners decision....and being he is a friend, I didn't want to say "hey, that looks terrible.". I figured the goo will be easily removed, with no harm to the paint or part, and if and when GM issues a replacement part, I can install it.
I would have let the dealer pull it apart again to look (during the oil change trip), but I needed the car, there was no loaner for the first day service, and what are they really going to do once it is taken apart?
Without taking them a leaking car, and showing the dirt trail leading from the valve, it is not much point in it. Me showing up with a dry car with a dirt trail LENDS itself to my theory, but it won't allow them to prove it, and without a new part, nothing would get accomplished anyway, even if they agreed.
I will keep in contact with them, and inquire about any recalls, or new info about the part. Until then, mine is staying dry (as far as I know), and shouldn't be a problem.
My brother is an idiot, and won't bother ever doing anything about his, so his will rot out, and he'll be fighting for the corrosion warranty :P
I am hoping to see more 2005 owners reporting this problem, so I can look forward to a re-designed valve piece.
Broke
Your input is the sort that makes a forum useful.
is on I put the scanner on it and NO trouble codes came on.replace the
computer with another one with the same numbers on it.
Still didnt help what i dont understand is if the theft light is on it shouldnt run
but this car starts and runs like it just came off the showroom floor.
The only thing that was wrong with it when i got it was a dim right driving light.
that i think could be a bad ground at the light
Thanks for anyones help in advance Elmer
To feel these flaps you must run your hand up immediately behind the bumper skin, just below the vertical body seam next to the rear turn signal.
To check to see if any water is coming through this valve it is very easy to pull the top of the trunk liner out far enough to see the grill (part of the "pressure relief valve") and to reach down to and below the grill to check for any moisture there.
Whether a 1995 or a 1996 model, that mileage seems suspiciously low. I would guess that the speedometer was turned back.I am sorry that what I am saying is not any "help" to you. I would however recommend that you get a second (or even a third) opinion from a different mechanic as to the overall condition of your car before spending more on it.
Just to be clear: "tension belt motor" is not any part I know of. Was this described in any other way? Does "compressor" refer to the air conditioning compressor? Since "shimmying" usually refers to a shaking caused by something awry in the suspension, is the mechanic saying this is an exhaust system problem? Or is the "shimmying" actually an engine vibration?
If the original dealership serviced the car up until 21,000 miles would it not be possible for them to take a look to see what they think could have happened in just 7,000 miles?
I have a 1998 Cavalier 4 door sedan. I want to take the factory stereo out (i believe it's a delco) and put in an aftermarket stereo. I'm just leary of how the dash comes apart. Would someone be able to show me the diagrams or point me in the right direction to figure out to take the dash apart so I can put a new stereo in it please.
(1)
Go to http://www.ny-jbodies.org/
Click on "Library" (top right of page)
Scroll down to "Interior Enhancements"
Click on "Audio Install Directions"
I have done this job on several of my Cavaliers. Let me know if you don't understand something and I'll try to help.
OR
(2)
A far easier solution is to access the radio by using a small rotary tool cutter to make two horizontal cuts thru the trim plate to separate the lower "U" part of the trim plate from the upper part of the trim plate, pop the lower part off carefully, and pop it back on when through. Cut slowly through the plastic because it will tend to melt. The separation betwen the upper and lower parts of the trim plate will be hardly noticeable.
The cut should be made right along the line I have indicated by an "arrow" in the picture I had intended to add to this post.
Edmunds FAQ says "You may post a link to a photo or insert the photo using the standard html tag for an image: Since this is my first attempt to post a picture on a forum I don't know what part of that form stays as-is, and what part do I remove and replace with my photo's information.
I have asked Edmunds to explain this better for me, but can anyone help me here?
I am taking the car in to a new shop for a check up I figure I'll find a mechanic eventually that will figure this out. But I do have a question for you. Check the exhaust hook up this problem started shortly after i noticed a change in the exhaust sound, and I've also notice a loss of power in the engine with this. Do you have this too?
Also does any one have the temperature problem with their car, the gauge is actually reading incorrectly is what the mechanic tells me, but it seams that its running warmer than normal.
I'll post what the mechanic states when he gives me his "solution."
I hear ya though I've spent about 1200.00 trying to figure this out.
I just want my car running good again :confuse:
1 more question.
Is it necessary to disconnect the air bag system? If so, how do i go about doing that? I just replaced a stereo in a '94 grandam, and it was pretty simple with the wiring harnesses. How ever I didn't do anything to the 1 air bag which was installed on the wheel. I did read somewhere though to disable the airbag, if i'm not not actually going to be changing wires just doing harnesses from the radio wiring to the radio, what are the odds of needing to disconnect the air bag system?
Thanks!!!
1. Basically what happens I start the car up, and i put it in drive, it kinda chugs a lil bit then it goes...It's almost like it's going to stall...
2. Almost as soon as I goto turn the wheel the wheels kinda click (like the abs) then the ABS brake light comes on and as well as the ETS light come on at the same time. My brakes work fine. I've had them changed and they're still the same. Would it be a sensor? If so is it easily changable or does a mechanic have to do it?
Candie
-When leaving headlights on or key in ignition, the chime does not work if you open either door.
-When opening either door, the dome light does not work.
-When putting gearshift to Drive, doors no longer lock and safety belt warning lamp does not light.
Dome light and door locks will work operate manually. All fuses look fine. I can't find a mechanical switch on the door that controls the chimes if the door is left open !
Help ! :confuse:
Seriously, what is there to like about this car except the price?
To tell you the truth though, the incentives were a factor of why I chose this car.