Chevrolet Cavalier

alternator · June 2005

you haven't tried yourself! I modified three different Cavalier dashboards in this manner, and if you didn't know about the cut you wouldn't likely ever be aware of it. Truly.

The reason for this is that the cut follows along a depressed line in the dash, so the cut looks like it probably belongs there.

fish8 · June 2005

If it turns out to your liking then good for you. You have more guts than I to try and cut into your dashboard.

alternator · June 2005

The first time I took the whole dashboard off, but I realized that wasn't necessary. We're only talking here about a thin (1/8 in) plastic trim plate, and only two cuts --- each about 1 1/2 inches long, on either side of the radio opening.

caryphd · June 2005

">I bought a Cavalier new in '96 (one of those torquoise ones that now seems like it's every third car on the road today) when I was in grad school, and, while recalls were practically a weekly event for the first year (my favorite was a starter issue that if not fixed MIGHT make the steering column burst into flames whether the vehicle was being driven or not...lol), the car has given me almost no trouble and what troubles it has had, beyond the problem so common it's printed on the gas cap, have needed only cheap fixes (maybe I have the last honest and affordable dealership service department in America?). Just this year I had to finally have break pad work done.

My Cav did develop a problem this year, though--wonder if anybody has some insight. In January, while siting at a stop light, I heard a high pitched metallic whistling sound coming from under the passenger side of the hood. It either went away when the car was going over 25mph or I just couldn't hear it because of other traffic sounds. Took it in and the service guy said he couldn't locate the source of the sound and it went away when he took the car out on the highway so it may, in his opinion, just be from driving the car in the city on a really cold day (10 degrees and no parking garage at work). Sure enough, when the weather warmed up the noise went away. Yesterday it came back after I sat in backed up traffic for 5 minutes waiting for the police to deal with somebody's fender bender. So much for the cold weather theory. Anybody know what it might be? It's seems loudest when the car idles, doesn't change when in neutral.

Thanks,
~ Cary

alternator · June 2005

Is it possible that the noise is coming from a slipping serpentine belt?

You might want to try a very small amount of "valve grind compound" on the belt. Do not use "belt conditioner" ---- for some reason, that stuff does not work as well in stopping belt noise..

caryphd · June 2005

Thanks. I was thinking maybe serpentine, too. A slipping belt would explain why the noise comes and goes, and is now maybe not going to go anymore. I had a serpentine replaced two years ago. Funny story about that. After they replaced the belt, the guys left a tool under my hood. When I went back for an oil change three months later..."Oh THAT'S where that went!" I drove around for three months and even to another city 2 hours of Interstate driving away and the tool stayed put. They gave me an unsolicited free oil change and transmission flush (AKA "Please don't sue us"). lol

~ Cary

mdaffron · June 2005

If it was really cold that winter day and you had your defroster on, then your a/c compressor was on too -- many people don't realize that the a/c compressor works in defrost to remove moisture from the interior of your car. Now it happens in late June, and I'll bet you had your air conditioning on.

In both cases, your compressor was putting a load on the engine -- and on that serpentine belt. (You ever tried to turn an a/c compressor by hand, without the belt attached? WOW!)

Chances are, you'll only find the belt squeaking when a load is placed on it. Just to make sure, though, you might have them check your power steering pump -- which is also belt-driven -- while they're replacing the belt.

Meade

caryphd · June 2005

You nailed the problem. It was the compressor. Turns out my AC was going out gradually. This morning when I took it in, suprise, the AC wasn't cooling at all. And, yep, the weather extremes were working the compressor both back in January and this week. Good call.

~ Cary

dontshopthewal · July 2005

Well.. Last week my Cavalier hit 10,000 miles and not a problem yet. I still like pretty much everything about it except for a rank smell that appeared after it hit 10,000miles. Sorry to hear all the problems some people have had.

stef8 · July 2005

I want to change my synchromesh transmission fluid (1994 Cavalier manual 5 speed) and I'm having a hard time locating the drain and fill plugs.

Could somebody give me a hint?

Thanks for your time!

alternator · July 2005

You refill the manual transmission fluid thru the transmission dip stick hole using a funnel. The drain plug is on the lowest place on the manual transmission housing. If you know where your engine oil drain plug is, it's the other plug. Drain while hot, with care. Push up on the plug while unscrewing so that hot fluid does not squirt out before you are ready to remove the plug. (The service writer at any Cavalier dealer should be happy to point out the transmission drain plug to you if you are not sure).

stef8 · July 2005

Tanks alternator for the infos!

I did it this afternoon and everything went fine!

aprilbaby34 · July 2005

I have a 1991 chevy cavalier, and it has been an awesome car, up until a few months ago. There is 180K on it, and immaculate. A few months ago though, it started getting pretty loud, and sounded like a motorcycle. I took it to the shop, and he replaced my fuel filter, and fuel pump in the gas tank. Not a fix. I replaced the spark plugs. Not a fix. My uncle replaced the distributer wires. Not a fix. All together. Now my cruise control has gone only a couple weeks ago. My car is louder than a motorcycle, it surges forward unexpectedly, drives with no power, then shoots forward, recently I have started to smell burnt oil, and now gas. It raddles, and shakes, and drives like a tank. What on earth could be wrong with it? :sick: :confuse:

marksb18 · July 2005

Any advice on how to replace an alternator in a 1998 Chevy Cavalier? The dealer says the engine has to be dropped to access it. I can't imagine engineers to design the engine like this, but they have done stranger things before. Moderate DIY. Thanks.

gman_128 · July 2005

i have a 94 cavalier and my fan died on me and on highway it's good it doesnb'yt heat up but i know i have to get it fixed and i was wondering if i had to take it a mechanic to fix it or is there someway that i can do it myself and i'm pretty mechanically inclined so if anyone can tell that would be great.

alternator · July 2005

The Chilton Repair Manual for 1995-2000 Cavaliers shows that the alternator may be removed and replaced from above (2.2L engine), but vehicle needs to be raised so as to reach, from below, the lower mounting bolts (2.3L and 2.4L engines).

Nothing I see indicates a need to "drop the engine".

alternator · July 2005

The Chilton Manual for 1995-2000 Cavaliers, for the 2.2L engine, shows that you can remove the fan assembly from below the vehicle and then replace the fan motor.

The steps are: Disconnect negative battery cable, raise vehicle, unplug fan electric connector, remove fan assembly mounting bolts, remove assembly out bottom of vehicle. Replace fan motor.

Reverse above to install. Torque mounting bolts to 53 in-lbs.

Apparently the larger Cavalier engines involve draining coolant, etc.

keith13 · July 2005

anybody else had their cavalier suck water into the engine during a heavy rain?

joe3891 · July 2005

I never have but heard of it, some bend a rod some don't.

keith13 · July 2005

This one broke two rods,Mr Goodwrench wanted $5100 for the engine and $1000 to install it. I found one a little cheaper and am doing it myself. Dealer told me that the insurance companies normally total the car out, then he said that he had never seen a cavalier do it.

pen2guin3 · July 2005

I have a 1996 Cavalier and started to hear a grinding noise coming from the wheel below the power steering liquid houseing/pump (right below the power steering pump which in turn rotates the serpentine belt). As I push on the gas, this grinding noise becomes somewhat lounder and faster. I've searched this entire site and few others and couldn't find any other problem similiar to mine. The grinding noise (I'm almost positive isn't coming from the serpentine belt itself) is being generated by the pulley associated with power steering pump..... I haven't had any problems with steering the car (in other words, as I turn the steering wheel it isn't going out or harder to steer). Just this annoying griniding noise...! I'm wondering, is there any bearings in the wheel pulley (by the power steering pump)..? I think I might have bad bearings or something like that.? Secondly, is the car safe to drive in the mean-time...? Thank you for reading and hope you can help.

joe3891 · July 2005

Remove the belt and then rotate the tensioner pulley for roughness, while you are at it try the alternator, water pump and any idlers. Get it fixed or you will be stranded, no water pump if the belt goes, gets hot fast.

keith13 · July 2005

I think that I found the reason that some cavalier(and sunbirds) suck water into the engine. The air box(where the air filter goes.) does not seat into the part of the intake system that is in the front fender and it allows the system to suck water from the area of the battery. the second problem is that the weep hole in the bottom of the air box is very small and can be plugged by a dead bug or leaf and allow water build up in the air box intil it enters the engine. I encourage every one with a 2003 J body to check these two areas, it could save you a lot of money.

santee245 · July 2005

Hi, I am a 16 yr. old girl that received a Chevy Cavalier 1996 car from my mom for Christmas. We don't have much money and that was the best she could do for me and I am so grateful to her for it. The man that sold her the car told her nothing was wrong and charged her $2,000.00 for it and after she bought it he wrote SOLD AS IS on it. She drove it and it ran okay, but soon after Christmas when I received it, I was driving it with my little brother in the car and it stalled. It has stalled almost every day and I am afraid that we will stall at a light and will both be killed. I am so afraid to drive it, and this morning it wouldn't stay running again. My Grandma told me to see if anyone could help me on here. Mom took it to 4 different shops and they ran it and ran it and it never stalled for them. One valualbe lesson she has learned is not to believe someone who is selling cars in their yard. The guys that looked at the car changed the fuel filter, but that didnt work we also put dry gas in it. Is there some kind of a problem that they are not aware of on these cars? Any help or ideas of a recall on something or something else we can try. I would appreciate it so much. Thank you.

gmoudy · July 2005

If you could tell us a little more about when does it stall. Does it do it while you are trying to accelerate? Does it do it while at idle? My Cavalier was having a problem and would almost stall out on me. I found a cracked vacuum line near the throttle body. I replaced that and all is fine. You might want to insure all vacuum line are in good shape. Sometimes that will cause the problem you are having. It is also a good place to start looking.

santee245 · July 2005

Yes, thank you so much for helping me. When the car is hot or warmed up it does it, either sitting still or accelerating does'nt matter when it does it, but it doesn't do it when it is cold. I hope that helps. Again thank you so much.

stef8 · July 2005

I noticed this afternoon that the 2nd speed setting on the fan is not working, or is
running in first speed. Is this a resistor design, and is it replaceable? Any help would be appreciate!

Cavalier 2000

Thanks!

joe3891 · July 2005

Yes it's the resistor and it's replaceable.

stef8 · July 2005

Thanks joe3891, one more thing, is it located just behind the controls or somewhere else, like near the fan motor in the engine bay?

Thanks again!

Stef

alternator · July 2005

Post #1632 has an in-depth description of the location and replacement instructions for the fan resistor.

miss1521 · July 2005

Hello everyone, I am female and know nothing about cars, but I will try to clearly state my problem and I hope you can explain a solution in simple terms. (lol)
First of all, it's not my car, it's my brothers. It is a 98 (?) Chevy Cavalier. He is on vacation and left his car with me for the next two weeks so that I would have one to drive while he is gone. Before he left, he got his oil changed and the place put on his receipt that he needed his transmission fluid flushed and valve cover gasket replaced. The car ran fine for two days. One day on a quick run to the store I noticed the "CHECK GAGES" light come on. I do not know what that is (I couldn't find the manual in his car). So, I was afraid to drive it. I let is sit there for three days and someone told me they didn't think it was a problem so I decided to drive it again and run to the store. I started the car and put it in reverse, the battery light came on and the light that looks like an oil can came on too. I tried to go in reverse by pushing on the gas, but nothing, the car just rolled out of my driveway. I could barely turn the wheel. I turned it off and restarted it. When I did that, the same thing happened but I put it in drive. I did not have the parking brake on in case you are wondering. Nothing happened again. I turned it off, said a quick prayer (lol) and it started fine and I drove it back up into my driveway and parked it. I told my husband about it later this evening and he went outside to drive it around the block. It worked perfect. No disturbing lights, no stalling, no nothing. Frustrated, I decided to see for myself. I drove the car to blockbuster and back just fine, roughly 6 miles. No lights or anything. I will have this car for the next week and need to use it for appointments and such but am afraid to use it b/c I am 8 months pregnant and have a 1 year old daughter. Should I be concerned? What do you think the problem is? If I get the transmission flushed and the valve cover gasket replaced like the oil change place said, will that solve my problem? I hope someone on here can help me. Thanks. Melissa

:confuse: :sick:

joe3891 · July 2005

First DONT get the transmission flushed, it doesnt have a good track record. Wait for your brother to get back to do the valve cover gasket , It wont help any of your problems. The only time I saw a check gauges on mine it was low on fuel, it means look at gauges, are they in the normal range. When you were backing out the car stalled, dont know why but it may happen again. If it stalls again it will start right back up, if you need it I would use it. I would have your husband look under the hood and check the oil, coolant , power steering fluid just to be sure. Hope this helps a little.

miss1521 · July 2005

Yes, that helps... I have too much going on this week to be stuck at home. I'm just afraid we'll get stranded somewhere...

kman4 · July 2005

hey,
i am really glad that I found somebody who has had the same problem i am experiencing now. my cavalier ('02) stalls and runs like it is choking on something. It happens after a heavy rain or while driving in a heavy rain. Lately it has been happening in high humidity. I read what you posted about the intake system and the weep hole in the air box. I will have to check them out and see if it is like what you say. Have you been able to overcome the problem or have you just had to deal with it. Because I don't have a garage at my house I imagine this will always be a problem. What advice can you give??? Thanks in advance for any additional help that you could give.

alternator · July 2005

The Owner's Manual for my 2005 Cavalier, with 2.2L (Vin Code F) Ecotec engine, says the oil capacity is 4.0 quarts, including filter. My previous five Cavaliers, with the cast iron engine, always had that same capacity.

Boy, did I get a surprise! When I did my first oil change, the one-gallon catch container I have always used before severely overflowed (luckily I had newspapers and a plastic sheet underneath the container).

I forgot to exactly measure what it took to refill my engine, but I would guess it must have been close to 5.0 quarts. How in the world can GM screw-up the Owner's Manual in this way (this is not a newly-introduced engine)? Has anyone here measured the exact refill quantity required for the 2.2L engine?

stef8 · July 2005

Thanks alternator for your help!
I will fix it this week.

stef8

joe3891 · July 2005

Easy, they never changed the owners manual, I don't own one but I know it's 5 qts. I see you are not too familiar with GM.

keith13 · July 2005

I think that I fixed the problem with sensor safe silicone and 2 sheet metal screws. The problem that I had destroyed the engine, It sounds to me like you could have one of two problems, a wet air filter(easy to check after driving in the rain) or a bad set of spark plug wires( you didn't say what engine you have and some engines don't have spark plug wires.) Check it out and may your cavalier last longer than a Yugo.

kman4 · July 2005

My engine does have spark plug wires. I left it sit for a while to "dry out" and it was fine... as if it never happened. I don't think the wires are bad because I figure it would run crappy in all kinds of weather but it doesn't. I could be totally off with that guess, but I have 2.2L L4 (not the ECOTEC) engine. The engine code is 4. The sensor safe silicone and sheet metal screws that you spoke of were used inside the air filter box??? I figure that the air filter is getting wet from either moisture from humidity or wet from rain like you said. As soon as the rain stops and it drys out for a little bit it is fine. Plus it doesn't always give me trouble when it rains. I would like to plug a hole if there is one or change the routing of whatever intake inorder to take care of this. How did you use the silicone and screws on yours? Hey thanks alot for your reply and input.

ddoates23 · July 2005

Hello I am also a woman driver of a 99 cavalier. I don't know very much about cars so someone please help! I have two problems first my A/C hasn't worked on the lowest setting for sometime now, and today while driving the second setting also stopped working. Does anybody know why or what needs to be fixed? Also my second problem is while I'm driving in traffic (usually) my car starts to over-heat, what do I have to do about this?

malawianpro · July 2005

Hi Ddoates, i was searching the forums, first off i cannot believe how many people this has happened to, i am really surprised their isn't a re-call on it to get them replaced.

I did searching came up with this post number: 1362, very good reading up on this problem.

pat · July 2005

You're right, that's a great post - thanks for finding it and giving us the post number. Here's a direct link to it: hoyahenry, "Chevrolet Cavalier" #1362, 16 Jun 2003 8:38 pm

joe3891 · July 2005

You are talking about the fan speeds right? You need a new blower resistor, it's under the glove box and behind the fan motor. Costs about $30 for the part, labor I don't know, i do all my own work. It took me under an hour, one half hour shop rate should cover it.

malawianpro · July 2005

Ok i installed the new module, but for some reason it still doesnt come on, i even unplugged battery for awhile after i installed it, any other ideas or why not coming on?

keith13 · July 2005

In this case the weep hole is your friend,it's purpose is to let any water that gets in a properly designed intake system(Which Ecotech system is not) drain out. The hole is too small and can become plugged up with the small trash that all systems suck up, I drilled mine a little bigger. The silicone was used to seal the joint between the airbox and the piece inside the fender, the neck on the piece in the fender is to short to allow the air box a proper seal. The two screws are used to hold the airbox in place . I still lean towards the wires or the cap as being your problem, It could be running a little crappy most of the time and real crappy when it rains.

malawianpro · July 2005

I found that also the connector was fried! if the resistor blew then the connector fried, i also had a fuse blow when my alternator fried as well, but all good and working.

3thumbs · July 2005

I have a 2000 Chevy Cav. Broke down in the So. Cal heat this week. Had it towed to the dealer. They "diagnosed" the problem as a clogged catalytic converter. The car is now running fine....after $700. The part was over $500. Am I correct to assume that I was royally screwed?

joe3891 · July 2005

No, not for a factory part, not sure if it's available aftermarket.

malawianpro · July 2005

yea aftermarket only runs $80-100 with $20 shipping, IMO way overcharged on that one.

3thumbs · July 2005

Prior to installing the $570 part, I asked the service tech at the Chevy Dealer if there were any alternatives. He said that there are some "universal catalytic converters" that run about $300-$400 and do not have a good track record. The more that I check out what is available on the internet, the more it seems that I got taken. There appears to be a host of catalytic converters for a fraction of what I paid,,,and they are not "universal". Do I have any legal grounds to fight this? Am I being naive to even think that the service tech could have attempted to locate a $250 part? I know that dealers often sell a part at a jacked up price but a 500% increase is really disgusting. The tech informed me that this is the only part that would work effectively without risking future problems. I really don't want to sweep this under the rug and forget about it.

Chevrolet Cavalier

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