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There is some truth that all aftermarket converters will not work on all cars, when OBD2 came out they had more sensitive sensors and more of them. OBD2 has pre and post converter O2 sensors, if the converter is not in the proper range for the sensors a O2 sensor check engine light will come on, as the tech was telling you.
To make a long story short, the connections look fine. What else could it be? I haven't found anything on the net about this problem. Any ideas? I must say- visit this site if you ever need to remove the dash, seats, or door pannels.
Other than that, I love my car. I take a lot of long road trips and haven't had trouble.
Was wondering if the small bottles of Dupli-Color touchup paint are good to use for painting in the Z24 lettering on the trim? Also, what paint preps should be done, and how mant coats are needed?
Thanks for any info
Thom
It does call for removing, and later reinstalling, the timing chain "tensioner" --- but that should not effect the timing. Am I missing something here?
I own a '95 Cavalier that has had a new cluster put in (broken speedometer). When I got home, I noticed that the odometer was off by 2,006 miles (higher). Should I just leave it alone or have my GM mechanic have it sent out to be reset?
Mike
FYI
'95 Cavalier (infamous 2.2L, 3 speed LS sedan) bought in December of 2004 with a little over 64,000 on it (now has a little over 67,000mi). Owned by a little old lady in Allentown (original owner). Very well maintained and 4 mechanics have told me that it was a real good deal and is in great shape (I still keep my eye on the head gasket).
Since owning it, I've had a small hole in muffler soldered, coolant hoses replaced, valve cover gasket replaced, gave it 4 new BF Goodrich Traction tires, new gas filter and as stated above, a new speedometer "cluster". I don't think that's bad for a 10 year old car .
The following reference seems to indicate that all Cavalier 2.2L Ecotec engines were made in Tonawanda NY :
http://www.masterliness.com/a/GM.Ecotec.engine.htm
And the following reference says that "most" Cavaliers were assembled at Yorktown OH plant :
http://www.masterliness.com/a/Chevrolet.Cavalier.htm
I do believe however that some right-side steering wheel Cavaliers were assembled around 1996 at a GM/Toyota plant in California - and these were sold in Japan as Toyota Cavaliers (very small quantity)
Perhaps the name on your dad's engine is a word similar to "Ecotec" ?
Here's a good photo of a 2003 4-cyl Camry engine :
http://www.canadiandriver.com/testdrives/images/03camry_se4.jpg
Doesn't look anything like an Ecotec engine does it?
Maybe your dad's dealer meant the 2.4 Camry engine is similar in basic design to the 2.2L Ecotec engine? Just a thought.
Thank You
http://www.j-body.org/faq//79/
Please help!
Here's a link with a pic if you're interested in seeing what one looks like ...
http://www.answers.com/topic/vauxhall-cavalier
Meade
What is a good price and is the car reliable with this many miles on it.
Thanks for the in put.
I am a newby to this forum and have no much knowledge about cars. I'm planning to buy a 2004 Chevrolet Cavalier VLX, 6600Km, auto, sunroof, a/c, am/fm stereo, CD, all power. The person who is selling it asks for $13K (CAN). Do you think it is a good deal? I didn't see the car yet.
Also, what kind of things should I check when going for a drive test of the car? What kind of problems I may face at the long run with this type of car? How good is on gas.
your help is greatly apreciated! Thank you!
Gabby
a) After I've been driving (highway driving) for at least 30 minutes. Usual speed is 75 MPH or so.
b) I slow down to about 10-15 MPH or lower. The oil pressure light will remain on until I start moving forward again, at which time it will turn off.
c) I suspect it may be somewhat influenced by the weather -- I see it more often in hot, humid weather than at more regular temperatures.
Any idea what the problem might be? If it's going to be an expensive repair I may have to just sell the ol' car, as I've been looking at buying a new one anyway. Thanks in advance.
Have you checked your oil?
Meade
(Then again, if you're looking for reasons to tell your wife you need a new car ...)
Meade
I have also uncovered a list of perpetual problems that other Cavy owners complain about in those 91 to 94 years. Head gaskets, rusty lower doors, a/t problems with the TCC valve and the ignition switch failures.
Still, these old beaters' seem have a loyal following and people hate to give them up for the new Jelly Bean styles that everyone else is driving.
His car also has the bad cylinder lock that makes inserting the key, a frustrating, wiggling, stabbing, routine to get it to turn on.
As it seems the maintence has become my department, I need to hear from someone who has changed these cylinder locks out and walk me through the process. The locks themselves are over $200.00, the relay switch on the back is $50.00 and the garage wants $125 to do the R&R.
Anyone have any thoughts on how to soften this up a little, that's a lot of lawns to cut for him.
For the first problem I found the cause ... the device that actually makes the sound is located inside the original stereo box and when I putted it back .. the alert came again .. I guess Im gonna have to buy that specific part and plug it in.
Now for the second problem .... I really dont know what happened .... I took it to this place ( a car stereo warehouse ) to have the job done .. but I think they messed up something .. maybe a cable, a bulb .. I really dont know.
They say its not their fault because putting a new stereo or speakers has nothing to do with the lights on the main panel or on the lights of the odometer in this case ... they say theres no way its their fault ... but I know the problem started when I went to those guys ...
I just want to know if anyone has had any similar problems and that knows the possible causes .... in that way I will go back to the store and tell them what really is going so they can help me.
Thanks.
The radio in your car had a few more wires then the radios in other cars. Usually u have power wire, ground and 8 speaker wires, +anthena. Your car has a few more that connect directly with the instrument cluster. If a wrong wire got hooked up to where its not supposed to be, it would definately fry something on the cluster. The only fix for the odometer backlight is to replace the cluster. No bulbs there, just led's.
To remove alternator, disconnect negative cable at battery, with 15mm socket rotate tensioner pulley clockwise while you force belt off of alternator pulley, disconnect regulator connector and battery B+ cable from alternator, then remove mounting bolts from alternator. Reverse this order to install new alternator.
In any case, turn it in whichever way removes some of the tension on the belt ---- comprende? Good luck.