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"1. Disconnect the battery for safety. Remove the six Allen bolts on the wire cover, then remove the wire cover; this will allow access to the coil packs.
2. Using a socket, remove the bolts that hold down the coil packs. There should be a total of four bolts, one on each coil pack.
3. Unplug the coil pack harness from each of the four coil packs. All the coil packs should come out with ease.
4. With a spark plug socket and an extension, remove the four spark plugs"
Have it done by some one that has done the job before. It is not a cheap job, the front engine cover needs to come off.
I have a 1996 Pontiac Sunfire convertible with a 2.4L engine, 5-speed manual, and 130,000 miles (OK, 129,990. It'll hit 130,000 tomorrow). In my 12 years of ownership (OK, Oct 4th it'll be 12 years) I've had to replace the power window on the drivers side. That was partly my fault for closing the door with the window halfway down. The AC required a major fix and I've had some oil leaks and a few other problems. The most costly was a new top. I'm still on the original clutch (although it's starting to slip and the car has recently developed a hesitation). Does that make the car more or less reliable than the norm? I don't know, but my neighbors have gone through their Japanese cars faster than I've gone through mine.
Would I buy a used Sunfire/Cav to replace my car? No. Used G5s and Cobalts should be better. But what it comes down to is the old American small cars can hold their own with the imports.
As far as safety goes, the larger the car, the safer you should be. That's physics, not nationality.
Good Luck.
Thanks
Thanks
I'm sure that is your problem, chekc it out by jabbing/shaking the hubcaps in/out with your hand and find the source of the sound.
Desperate to have my driver's window roll down without coming off track.
Thanks,
I am stumped, any help? thanks!!
Can anyone suggest how I might brighten up the looks of these?
http://www.canadiandriver.com/2007/07/05/product-review-forever-black.htm
However, they have no dealer in Indiana where I live. I may order some via Amazon
Thanks for your tip slackerman
All day the readings got higher and eventually went over 110 mph even when setting still.
Now it fluctuates between 75 mph and over 110 mph, mostly reading over 110 mph.
What is most likely to be the problem ?
After getting a brand new battery and connecting a new negative battery cable everything seems to be working except when I go to drive, the ABS/Brake lights come on and I hear a ticking noise and the stereo just flashes. When I remove the Abs fuse, everything is fine.
I'm thinking the system just has to reset itself, but I'm not sure. On the positive battery cables I cleaned off the corrosion with a wire brush and STILL get the ticking noise....can anyone help?
anybn questions abt anything abt the cavalier just let me knw
if the problem resist i would belive that the wiring of the battery which goes to the DINAMO/Generator has got a short-shock and im sure that if u will not fix it any soon u will have the problem bigger , it will coast u like around 100 Dollars to change the wires and/Or to re-arrange them at a very proffisional W.Shop
I have a 94 Chev Cavalier with 110,000 kms (68,000 miles)
'New' rad, brakes, muffler etc but has been sitting on driveway for a year.
I wanted to fix it up for my son, but wondered if there may be major problems after sitting for so long.
Would it would be worth it for him to put effort into renovating it? I saw that 94 was a good year for this model. Is that correct?
It has always been quite reliable.
Thanks for looking into this.