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Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems
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Comments
Mark
This is on a 1999 Nissan Quest SE 3.3 V-6
One diagnosis said it was an egr fault, but egr was fine, so the catalytic convertor needed to be checked. It checked ok. Belts and wires replaced. Dealer then checked egr system and timing belt, as well as catalytic convertor. They concluded that the air control meter was bad. they wantee 500. for the part, and 110. to put it in. I got the part and put it in. Still broke. Then someone said that it may have a clog in front of the catalytic convertor. I took off mid exhaust. It was still quiet with out the muffler, and still guttless. I took off the catalytic convertor(which bolts directly to the exaust manifold). Easy to do, but try to do it when the engine has cooled off. Drove it down the road and it sounded like a harley, but it ran like a bat out of hell. priced a new catalytic convertor and will have to order. I took the old one and tried to blow compressed air through it. It had some flow, but evidentally not enough.
For now, i fixed it. It has a screen on both ends, and ceramic porcelain on the inside that looks like a fine honeycomb. You can only get to one side because the otherside is purposely welded with a bend. Heres what I did. I beat the holy living hell out of the guts of it. I dug the far screen out with a small stick with a finish nail through it. I then blew it out thoroughly. I put it back on, and it runs like new. (It was well maintained and cared for to begin with.) I'm sure its not street legal at this point, but it runs good, and quiet. I'll put a new one on here in a few days.
Oh, by the way, the transmission now shifts properly again. It is smooth as it should be. Now we only need to fix the left headlight and the radio display.
Here is what was wrong: You know how the throttle body builds up with carbon? Well now I find that the catalytic convertor does as well.I'm sure it is by design. Add some rust scale and you won't get anywhere. I even tried blowing it out from the outlet side, and it didn't come out. The engine was having to rev so hard that it would jerk when it finally got around to shifting. I'll also note that the only reason for the catalytic convertor to be here, is so that it can clog easier then if it were further from engine(my opinion)
So this van has really been good. The dealer made this situation far more unpleasant and expensive then it had to be. I think they knew what the problem was all along, and saw an opportunity to pump alot of money out of me. I don't have that much money, and they knew that, but wanted to screw me anyways. I will not go to that dealer again, and may end up getting rid of the van so I don't have to worry about where to go for dealer parts or repairs. I think they just lost Nissan Motor Corporation and any Nissan dealer, a very loyal customer. I hope it was worth it for them. It was not for me.
No, the cat conv is there to convert most of the harmful gases in the exhaust into something harmless. In the process, "nothing" is left behind, at least in theory, so a cc can last a very long time.
In reality, soot from the engine can clog it, as you have found out. It also becomes less effective over time, though I believe at 100k it should still be fine, if everything else is OK.
BTW, it needs to be very hot to do it's job properly, which is why it is where it is and not farther down the line. Many newer cars have a small cc right in the exhaust manifold, where it warms up and begins cleaning a lot faster.
The main components of exhaust one wants to get rid of are CO, NOx (various oxides of nitrogen), SO2 (sulfur oxide, dunno what happens to the sulfur, but there's your smell) and various hydrocarbons -- in large part, unburned fuel. They are sent past a large area of platinum and -- through a process of magic, I suppose -- transformed in to CO2 and water.
-Mathias
I have the same problem with my '94 Quest! Did you ever get an answer about this problem?
DON'T fall for a pricey "gotta replace the rack & pinion"... If the fluid is not leaking that is not the problem.....
I had a mechanic tell me that it just needed to have a Power Steering Flush......that usually when something like this happens, trash in the system is usually the problem.
I did have that same mechanic do this type of flush (GREAT shade-tree mechanic)..... It did work......for a while. Now, I need to do that flush again (if that is indeed the solution), however, no one knows how to contact him.....
Can anyone give me some pointers on how to do this flush myself? :confuse:
Sincerely
BZZZ
No, I was saying a cat conv does not "filter out soot" and tried to explain what it does and how it does it.
Yours is most certainly shot, and I doubt it fulfils its function. However, if the check-engine light is not on, then maybe it still does work, as there is a second O2 sensor on the far side of the cat that is supposed to supervise the function.
As far as what you should do; since I'm spending your money,and since a '99 has a lot of life left, I'd suggest buying the O'Reilly replacement and sticking it in there. That shows good faith and it should be effective for awhile.
Good luck,
-Mathias
Brake shoes- are they clean and how are they wearing. Any grease will cause a lock up so check the rear axle bearing grease seal [you must remove the seal to remove the drums]. Also the drums must be checked for true , not out of round or egg shapped.
The system is easy there are the wheel cylinders , look at the rubber boot for leakage if none your probably good. The shoes, as I mentioned look for discoloration from grease which will cause lock up. The Hardware, AHA. The hardware is rarely changed but it consists of springs that pull the shoes off of the drum when released. I had done a brake job on a 1995 Olds with old hardware ,my own car and I was doing the cheap job, and found the return spring had broken in the past, unsure of how long ago but it was abraded from rubbing. Most shops do not change hardware. Then ther are the obsecure things like a hose that has a "bubble" in it letting the fluid go to the wheel and not return, or a proportuning valve sticking or even a valve in the master cylinder locking up but these are the rarities.
Most likely it is the hardware and if not then the shoes innundated with grease [rear axle bearing seal leaking] the other things are the oddities that could be present but not too likely to check.
As for the heat. The cars brake system translates speed to heat from friction to slow the car. Under off braking condition the shoe should not rubb hard on the drum and should develop no heat. I have seen cars that had the druym actually glowing cherry red from a dragging brake or have seen drums that showed signs of being overheated. An overheated drum should be replaced as it has the basic metalurgy of the drum changed by the heating.
Some food for thought. GOOD LUCK and hope all works out. The cheapest fix is another brake job with new shoes and new hardware and to truely check the "true of the drum" for out of round. Out of round may not be seen but in the 1/1000 inch it is significant
When I worked for a GM/Toyota dealer basck in the mid 1980s no one made Cats besides the original manufacturer but now there are a lot of manufacturers out there. Around 1985-1990 more companies started making replacement emmission parts [like the Oxygen sensor]. The Original part was probably made here as the Ford tie in for production . By the way any thing that states meets or exceeds manufaturers specs is fine. Around 1980 Toyota had engine problems [design flaw] that led to failure, Toyota balmed aftermarket oil filters but they were tested and meeet Toyota Std. The courts made Toyota pay for the engines saying they meet or exceed the origianl specs. The Oil Filter mentioned was made by an aftermarket company who after research also made the original replacement filters sold by Toyota.
To replace the rotors.
Remove wheel
Loosen caliper bolts [2 per caliper]
Take Caliper off and while off replace the pads
Slip the rotor off
Replace the Rotor, caliper and pads, tighten the caliper
Put 2 wheel lug bolts and tighten
Hit the brakes 2 or 3 times when both sides are done
Either hold the pedal down or release and remove the 2 lug bolts holding the rotor in place.
Put wheels on and RE TORQUE THE WHEELS look in manual for specs
I like to hit the brakes 2 or 3 times with tight wheel lugs in place to set the rotor. GM used to have a aluminium star type washer from the factory to hold drums on in the back when built so I feel the initial setting of the postion of the Rotor To Pads is important.
GOOD LUCK the brakes are easy to do almost too easy
Usual disclaimers - I haven't done business with them before.
Steve, Host
i'm also victim to a non-functioning speedo-odom-cruise control on my '99 Quest. Is this clearly a Variable Speed Sensor problem as well? If so, where does this thing reside so that i can identify and replace it? Also, are the parts any cheaper as Nissan or Villager? Seems like a great disparity in price for the VSS ... Postings indicate dealer price of $35 vs. $165.
Thanks...
i was thinking that 73K miles and $3.50/gal. gas might make this a good time for a tune-up on my "99 Quest SE (best mileage now is highway at 20mpg). Is it time for the distrib cap, rotor and wires to be replaced in addition to the plugs?
(i thought all these newer vehicles have electronic ignition?) Also, my local R&S Strauss tells me that double platinum plugs are the way to go... Is that OEM and is it really better? They are pricey at about $10 each.. Also, any thoughts on new rotors and ceramic pads as an overhaul?
Any help is really appreciated.
Thanks. I'll check it out.
Brian
1. changing oil, oil filter
2. changing fuel filter
3. change spark plugs
4. changing ignition cap and rotor
5. flush radiator
6. replace rear brakes (drum)
7. flush transmission fluid
8. injection cleaning
9. replace batter connector
10. replaces alternator belts (two) and ac belt (one)
I think the technician did a great job, he explained to me about the service and the bill totaled 950 which kind above my expectation.
Does this 950 sounds right with all these services? Comment anyone?
I have a Nissan Quest SE 99. Recently I experienced that driver's side window goes down but then has a hard time to come up and now it does not come up.
Could you tell me what the problem is? is it the motor, switch or regulator?
Where could I get the part and how difficult is it to change it?
Thanks very much,
Sia
I have the same problem, please tell me where to buy the part and how to change it?
Thanks a lot
Sia
Use the Search This Discussion box at the bottom right for "power window" and you'll find other posts about how to remove the switch. It is easy to replace yourself.
Steve, Host
The Driver side window of my 99 villager just stopped rolling up a couple of days ago. I took it to a local mechanic who charged me $50 to diagnose the problem and told me I would need to replace the power window motor. He claimed that part was about $140 and total charges including labor and diagnostics will be $270/-
Are these reasonable costs? I am reluctant to take it to the dealer as my experience with my dealer in past tells me they will prbably come up with a higher estimate. Anyone faced the same problem and got it fixed cheaper?
Any help/refrence to a good mecahnic in San Jose will be appreciated.
I have a '95 Villager that I have now started calling "Christine". She has the most amazing personality that seems to be electrically controlled. She locks herself all the time and I lose and regain headlights, seat controls, blower motors etc. I was told the voltage regulator on the alternator could possibly be throwing too much voltage at times. Although I have seen answers to some of my problems on this site, I think you might want to look at the voltage regulation to see if this is what is happening with your lights. I am not a mechanic I am just going with what I have been told and it seems that if this is possible, it is a good explanation to the mystery of blown and winking lights. Along with my lost relays
Also does anyone have any other ideas as to this issue. The sporadic electrical activity in my car. The locking doors and the loss of blower motors and seat movement can be tolerated but if it all connected I would like to know the fix
The sad thing is that we had a bad storm 2 says ago and a tree fell on the engine compartment. Insurance will cover it & got towed to the body shop today. They haven't opened the engine compartment & should tomorrow. My concern is that with the damage already and the liquid coming out of the radiator, there is internal damage. What options do I have with the amount of miles on it? Is it worth going through the trouble of fixing? Thanks!
We have played with all the controls, including the mute feature.
Almost seems like the speakers are not connected, or perhaps the amp blew out.
Any other ideas? We'll take it to the dealer this week.