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Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems
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Comments
http://www.loudoun-net.com/haines/villagerquest.htm
Appreciate your entries. I have read several references in the forum about trouble with exhaust studs but no details. I have an exhaust leak that I just cannot locate, so I am thinking manifold gasket or broken stud. Can you tell me about this issue or point me in the right direction (i.e. how to ident., degree of difficulty, helpul hints, approx. cost, etc.) Also, if this is the problem could it also be the reason for the engines impaired performance?
Thanks, Mark
Check out the first thread in All About Exhaust Systems.
Any wrench turners, please jump in!
Steve, Host
Chris
EGR control solenoid checked out perfectly according to procedure in Haynes manual. Hose from EGR to Back pressure transducer was completely destroyed (looked like it partially melted) so replaced that. I don't have a vacumn gauge to check transducer pressure and dealer wants $144 for a new one. Anyone have any ideas - could it be a faulty backpressure transducer? Bad egr? something else? thanks, Frank
If not equipped to read OBD externally, how do we determine the code(s)?
Where exactly the wiper switch is located? I have a 1998 nissan Quest and the wiper does not work. I checked the fuses and they are fine. I suspect the wiper switch/replay is bad. But I could not find it. Thanks in advance for your help.
Owners have reported making the smell go away by tightening the clamps attaching the fuel lines to the fuel rail of the engine, or by replacing them. Some of them are hard to get at.
This might give you or your mechanic a place to start. Hope this helps.
Dave
Thanks in advance.
1) removing the key from the key chain. (working on the heavy key chain theory) RESULT=nada
2) jiggling the key and turning the steering wheel as I tried to turn the key in the ignition. RESULT=worse than nada; all this did was lock the steering wheel, and now I cannot unlock it!
3) checked the shift lever to be sure I was in park (the shift lever is on the steering column). RESULT=nada again, and I should note that I cannot move the shift lever at all.
4) bought graphite powder and graphite spray, sprayed into ignition cylinder, on key, all over self, etc. RESULT=key still will not turn, out of pocket $5, hands are covered in black stain and have black smudges on face from rubbing forehead trying to figure out what to try next. feel minor headache coming on.
5) drove to auto parts store with black stained hands and face and bought Haynes manual and 'universal ignition cylinder assembly' thinking maybe I could just replace the ignition cylinder. RESULT=customers at auto parts store look at me strangely and guy behind counter who sold me graphite stuff tries hard to stifle laughter.
6)I was further tortured into thinking relief is in sight since Haynes manual makes changing ignition cylinder look very easy, until I get to the part where it says that I have to turn the key to the ON position in order to slide the cylinder out. RESULT=Headache is getting worse. Out of pocket another $30 for manual and ignition cylinder assembly.
I should add that this vehicle has been cursed since day one, but mostly with electrical type gremlins. You can imagine how thrilled I am to have a new challenge...
While here in Vermont it is fairly common to have at least one if not several non-functioning vehicles in one's front yard, I would prefer to use this piece o junk to get to work as originally intended. Any suggestions on what the problem is and what to try next would be most appreciated.
Of course its headed back to the mechanic, but I fear he'll say it's something else!!! Wadaya think?
You can check with the NHTSA to see if there have been investigations or complaints about this. Either way, it would be a good idea to file a report with them.
NHTSA Office of Defects Investigation
MODERATOR
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Recently noticed that the automatic headlights were turning off immediately and not delayed shutoff like they're supposed to do. This has been intermittent, and has not been a real problem.
Then last night I pulled in to the gas station to fill up, and when I turned the key to restart the car, nothing happened. No dash lights, no warning lights, nothing. I retried, still nothing. I moved the wheel and shift lever to see if the interlock was stuck, and the wheel turned, but not the shift lever.
Tried my wife's key, still nothing. Then after several more tries, I noticed the airbag indicator light blink, then after a few more tries the lights came back on and the car started. It restarted okay after we got home.
I'm wondering if the ignition switch and interlocks may be at fault. Has anyone here had similar experience? If so, what was the fix?
thanks
howard
Passenger door had some of the key issues noted (had to turn twice to unlock with key) but worked for the last year.
Last night - passenger got out, and then latch would not work at all. Dorr just bounced open. I had to move out of the way, so I pushed the electic lock button to unlock then locked. And door latched.
Little did I know - I would never open the door again.
Nothing will open the door. (no keyless entry on this old one).
Just acts like the door is locked.
I was going to pull the door panel and replace the latch (I am assuming it is the nylon cylinder in the latch that sets locked/unlocked)
But with the door closed - can not reach the 2 screws covered by the edge of the dash.
This is a tough one.
Not really worth spending several $100 to have dealer figure it out.
I have a new latch part on order.
Anyone had this issue?
Anyone know of a way to get the door open? (Short of cutting out the door panel)
Bruce
It also once had a remote starter, which was apparently ripped out by the original owner. I didn't know that when we bought it. Dunno if that makes a difference or not.
Anyway, try the key in both orientations. Maybe you'll luck out.
It only happened last summer on vacation with my 99. Those cheap factory clamps were the cause.
I have to add it's never happened on a morning start. Only after the car is driven a short distance and turned off to run in for a cup of coffee or pay for gas.
Good Luck!
Steve
I ordered a code reader and have cleared the P0400 code twice. So far the code has not changed. It appeared after about 120 miles were driven each time. I am recording the information to see if anything changes.
Does anyone have any ideas? I was told that the car was safe to drive, but I want to be sure.
Philip
Gets worse as you go faster, totally goes away at 58 MHP. Tires rotated, balanced, brakes new.
Going to dealer again!
Any thoughts.
Ron
it fixed the problem (of only blowing on high) for about one
month....now it's bad again, only blowing on hi. Could it be something else? PS...the resistor is about $40.
twice, and it's still only working on hi. I also replaced
the switch. Any suggestions?
it makes a crunching/rubbing sound. Like the wheels are rubbing agains the wheel wells. I have had it checked numerous times, but that's not it, and no one seems to know why it makes this noise. I have had the motor mounts replaced and the shocks tested. Any suggestions?