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Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems

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  • I replaced my timing belt and water pump for $387. That was exactly an year ago and my water pump started leaking again yesterday (confirmed that with another mechanic). Called up the previous mechanic and he says that it only had a six month warranty on it. quoted $300 for replacement. Is it possible for a water pump to start leaking in an year. if this is not normal can i go back to him that he used some crappy water pump which gave away?
  • what steps do i take to replace them
  • marku1marku1 Posts: 11
    Prayed that it was not the exhaust studs. It was the studs! Converters were fine. Had to let the exh. mech. do the do, I would have had to pull the heads just to get a decent look at the things. He welded some build-up on the broken studs(some in the head, some flush)and then welded nuts onto the build-up and backed them out. Not a job for this driveway wrench turner(not a welder). I also changed the timing belt. I had pushed it to long(10,000 miles) past recom. replacement. I know, BIG mistake. NOTE: If you are like me and are putting off the belt change, do it this weekend! It is not hard to do yourself, it takes some time, basic tools(nothing special), you just have to unbolt and move everything out of the way. My belt was not broken but was worn enough to get the timing off. Now, the engine has all the power back, no hesitation and excessive fuel use. I am now replacing the motor mounts again! The mech. told me to replace all of them, not just the broken two. Is that necessary?
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,267
    Thanks for the update; bummer about the studs.

    That's the best justification for changing the timing belt I've seen and a good way to avoid the interference/non-interference debate entirely. :shades:

    I'm saving up to do the belt and plugs on my '99 at the same time. I don't want to tackle the plugs since I'm afraid they may be frozen a bit.

    Dunno about the motor mounts, but if half are bad (again!), changing all four may be good insurance.

    Steve, Host

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • 97 Villager with rear blower not working, Help! I have a new blower, front and back control. I have voltage at both switches but nothing on the motor leads.
  • Could be the rear blower motor resistor.If the front blower works,remove the resistor and replace the rear one with it.They are both the same.See if that works.Let me know.
  • While driving recently, both front and rear blower motors stopped working. Checked fuses, both OK. Check for power to the fuses, no power. Checked relays (65a)OK, has power.
    Any ideas?
  • sopmansopman Posts: 46
    I have a '99 Quest with 90,000 miles. I live in the northeast, so I need my heater. It just started acting up. The temperature gauge is working the same as day one, raising up until it points to the "M" in NORMAL, then stopping. When it gets up to the "M" I'm still getting cold air out of the vents. After about 5 minutes of the gauge needle pointing at the "M", then it starts to get hot.

    I don't believe it's the thermostat, since the temperature gauge is working properly.

    Can someone help?

    Sopman
  • we own a nissan quest 1990 gxe, now has 239000 miles on it,
    never worked on the tranny, done work two or three times on the exhaust systemfront and back...changed oils regularly, changed tyres, belts, wipers.....same fuel filter still in van to date. changed air and oil filters...still get 90 miles up hill, still get over ahundred on flat roads,( slowed down beacause of the price of tickets in Ohio}....trouble is the humming sound..still rides better than my expensive lincoln {car}. all priase to the god of nissans.
    :lemon:
  • Hi,
    Just when i spent $380 on new brakes and water pump. now A/C compresssor stopped working on my 96 villager. Initially i thought I may have low refrigerant level so checked the pressure on the "recharge valve" with engine running and it shows 75psi, which is too high. Does it mean I have a clogged line? Is there anythign obvious i can check before taking it to the mechanic? (mechanic will charge $40 just to look at it and then the "other" charges will start..) Thanks for help in advance
  • rko11rko11 Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 Villager and for the last 6 months or so have noticed the brake light coming on all the time. Of course we have checked/changed the brakes and the light is on almost all the time now. Also having problems with the automatic door locks. Sometimes they will lock themselves, and sometimes when I try to lock them they will unlock themselves. Would these problems be related? Help please! My van is driving me crazy! :(
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes S.E. Wisconsin Posts: 903
    I've been following this and other Villager forums and i've seen almost no transmission problems. They must use a good one. Reading about the power lock problems, I had a interesting experience. My wife called from work saying, "The van won't start. The battery's dead." I took the battery pack over and got it started. I asked if anything unusual happened on the way to work. She said the doors were locking and unlocking themselves the whole way there, even when she shut the car off! I disconnected the battery, charged it, hooked it back up, and haven't had a problem since.
  • i had a same problem with my 2000 mercury villager it was under warrenty thats why dealer changed ball joint ,strut,drive shaft,strut mount almost everything in front end but guess what ? problem was still there .dealer got tired and said its body mount which is not covered in warrenty.few months later i went for an oil change and i saw SWAY BAR STABILIZAR was bend it cost me $15 in parts and $30 in labor no more noise i hope thats the same problem you have with your van
  • i had a same problem with my 2000 mercury villager it was under warrenty thats why dealer changed ball joint ,strut,drive shaft,strut mount almost everything in front end but guess what ? problem was still there .dealer got tired and said its body mount which is not covered in warrenty.few months later i went for an oil change and i saw SWAY BAR STABILIZAR was bend it cost me $15 in parts and $30 in labor no more noise i hope thats the same problem with your van
  • Where are the resistors located?
    I checked everything I could find through the owners manual and instrument layout.

    Kevin
  • I have a Nissan quest GXE 99 ~116000mile and so far no major problem... Today, when I drove on highway, several times rpm changed rapidly. normally, ~2000rpm showed but at that time, move down to ~700 then jump up to normal. Then, just before I parked my car, rpm showed ~1000 pressing brake, suddenly rpm moved 500 ~ 1200then engine stopped with all warning light on. Fortunately, I could get turn engine on without any problem. From that, at most crossing, whenever I stopped my car, engine stopped. But still no problem to engine on. No strange smell, all oil are enough. Please help me.
    Ryan.

    P.S.: sorry for bad expression but it is really hard to describe.
  • Sorry I forgot to mention several things. It happened after engine warmed up such as after driving ~20 min,then it happened. Another thing, after turned on engine, I can hear some squeeze sound something like small metal chip danced in the engine. I hope it help to find.
    Thanks

    Ryan
  • I have a 98 Villager and 00 Quest. Both have burned-out bulbs on the dash display. My mechanic told me he doesn't want to rip me off by taking the dashboards apart to replace the bulbs so I haven't fixed them. Let me know if you find a cheap way to do it, thanks!
  • our 98 villager just started doing strange things with the power door locks - at any given time, some lock/unlock and some don't, but there's no problem with the brake light.
  • Can anyone tell me where I can get this part cheaper than the Stealer?

    Part# F6XZ2B547AB
    Price $248.10
  • david,i had the same,but my dash,radio and all was out,i found that the dimmer switch had a lot to do with it,i just used a paper clip one night and jump the power,it worked for me,i did it at night so i could see when the dash lit up.back yard stuff.u can just pull the whole component out,dimmer,light switch and all,or buy a new one and try that,let me know.
  • Hi Steve or any other villager experts.. can someone please give me some direction on my query below? THANKS

    A/C compresssor stopped working on my 96 villager. Initially i thought I may have low refrigerant level so checked the pressure on the "recharge valve" with engine running and it shows 75psi, which is too high. Does it mean I have a clogged line? Is there anythign obvious i can check before taking it to the mechanic? (mechanic will charge $40 just to look at it and then the "other" charges will start..) Thanks for help in advance
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,267
    You must mean a different Steve :shades:, but I looked through my '99's service manual. Looks like any number of things could be the problem, including a bad compressor, low pressure switch stuck open, restricted or plugged suction line, orifice O rings leaking, moisture or excessive lubricant in the system, loose compressor belt, slipping or seized compressor clutch, clutch coil open (shorted or loose), A/C relay (dirty contacts or stuck open) or compressor operation interrupted by ECM (not even sure if your '96 has a full blown ECM).

    Try the Climate Control Problems (Air Conditioning, Heat) - All Cars discussion too.

    Steve, Host

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes S.E. Wisconsin Posts: 903
    I'm going to put new brake pads on my '01 Villager this weekend. Does anyone know what socket( I'm assuming it's an Allen head type) I would need to get the caliper bolts out? Thanks for any help.
  • svaratisvarati Posts: 1
    There was a class action on this manufacturing defect. Nissan replaced the Throttle Body assembly free and I got money(some) back on my first TB cleaning. If you still own the van you can get TB replaced by dealer. Check with your dealer or Nissan.

    V
  • dhoffdhoff Posts: 282
    Toomany-

    The caliper bolts are Torx bits. Sorry, I don't remember the size. When I did my brakes I bought an assorted set that fits a socket wrench. Some folks have had trouble getting these bolts out & have broken the bits, so beware. Other than that these brakes are pretty easy to work on. You might want to pick up some bolts to thread in the holes in the rotors to get those off.

    Dave

    PS Hosts - can we get Torx in the spellcheck dictionary? I'll have to remember that word next time I play Scrabble...
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,261
    probably an illegal word ;)

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,267
    It's a T40 from one of your posts back in February '04. ;)

    My factory manual irritates me on fasteners; it gives torque requirements for every one, but it never tells you the bolt or nut size required.

    Steve, Host

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes S.E. Wisconsin Posts: 903
    Thanks for the replies. It is a T40, I have a set I bought for another project, I crawled under the van and checked, and it fit.
  • stigmatastigmata Posts: 10
    I had the front and rear go out on my '95. The rear was a bad relay on the heater control board and the front was a bad resistor.. Just went to the boneyard and pick one up because new they are close to 400 bucks I think.
This discussion has been closed.