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Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems

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Comments

  • bucketdadbucketdad Member Posts: 1
    Hello, Have 98 Mercury Villager which had been sitting a while. After having replaced brakes and rotors all around along with struts and front glass took to using it again. Runs fine but the windows and door locks work about 1/4 of the time. Yesterday fine today nothing. Pulled the cover from the fuse cover and it doesn't tell me which is responsible for these functions.

    Anyone have clue which fuse position to check?

    Thanks,

    Bucketdad
  • donalddonald Member Posts: 2
    My 1995 Villager has a loud squeal when the engine is idling. I now have a new power Steering Pump, Pulley Assembly, Belts and an array of other hardware amounting to a little over $600.00 because I complained about the squeal to my mechanic. I'm out all the money and still have the squealing noise at idle. Not just a little squeak, I mean people are looking to see where the noise is coming from. Does anyone have any idea about what to do? :confuse:
  • donalddonald Member Posts: 2
    Hi...I have 1995 Villager. Chances are the fuse line-up for my Villager is different than yours, but a possibility is to go to mercury.com and search the website for an "owner manual" for your model. They are downloadable for free. That' :) s what I did and it give the complete owners book including the fuse line-up. You may then have a better chance of getting a solution to your cars issue. I hope this has helped at little, at least. Cordially, Yours, Donald
  • izaclown1izaclown1 Member Posts: 118
    My 2k does the same thing. Everyone that has looked at (dealer and independant mechanics) says everything is tight and looks fine. Pay that much for a vehicle and have to put with oddities like that. I would like a possible answer myself.
  • twindantwindan Member Posts: 2
    Ok I've checked all the fuses and the resistors, no problems there....I am at a loss, It was working great one day and then the next day, no fan blowing any heat. I live in Alaska, so if anyone can help it would be nice.... It's about -10 degrees outside right now and it feels colder in the van. anyone with similar problems?? Its a 1993 Nissan quest has about 150,000 miles on it.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Thanks for reminding me why I moved south. :-)

    Check out this link too. Maybe a circuit board has a cold solder joint or fried part?

    Steve, Host
  • steven38steven38 Member Posts: 11
    My 95 Villager has a very similiar problem also!This noise comes from the power steering belt pulley.It makes a lot of noise after being started from cold,but usually disappears after 10-15 minutes,during which it gradually quiets down.I have noticed it particularly noisy in the colder months.I believe it is an inherent flaw in the bushing/bearing of this pulley because it is improperly lubricated.I have noticed that it completely quites down for half a minute or so when it is sprayed with water.I have previously removed it ,and it seemed perfectly ok.Next,I will remove and lightly grease or oil the bushing.Ibelieve this will fix it.
  • riswami1riswami1 Member Posts: 33
    I have a 98 Villager with 86k. I had to add about 20 ounces of coolant to my overflow tank yesterday. I had previously done this (added coolant) in early September. Any idea where the coolant is going. I'm concerned because the cooling system is closed and it should not be needing fluid. I probaly put 5k on the vehicle during this time frame. The van runs fine, it generally gets between 20 to 21 miles per gallon in mixed driving.

    I though I read something about this in a post a few years back.
  • daryl4daryl4 Member Posts: 5
    i have a 93 villager and it spits a spudders in park when you accel some times all the time looses power smells like fuel coming out of tail pipe eked tps/fuel presure 39 to 43 when it does this fuel presure goes to 43 then when it clears up it goes back to 39 cked all sensors but oxyjen sensor has any one else had this problem this is afriend of mines van he came to me as a last resort i think its ether the pcm or wiring harness please help
  • steven38steven38 Member Posts: 11
    For all you owners of Quest/Villager minivans that have rear blowers not working,here is the way I fixed mine.After determining that the blower motor,resister,rear switch were working,I focused my attention on the main front HVAC contol unit.I discovered there is a small relay/microswitch on the circuitboard that supplys power to the rear blower motor.This is what the rear slider control up front is for.I found out about this relay through a different wiring diagram that my shop manual ommitted! Anyway,I bypassed this relay, unplugging and "bridging" the 2 wires together."Presto" the rear blower worked again!My alternative would have been to replace the entire main control,as the relay is integral andcannot be replaced.You can imagine how much those units cost.Did this about 6 months ago and have had no problems with the fix.
    h those units cost.
  • hoosierdadhoosierdad Member Posts: 2
    My wife has 2002 Nissan Quest with 36,000 miles on it and she is only getting about 10 mpg in the city and highway mileage is right at about 22-23. The dealer has checked fuel air mixtures and everything he says he can and reports no problem of course. This started about a year ago and has been in the shop 3-4 times for the problem. Low mileage only occurs in the city and not when taking long trips on the highway.

    Any ideas on what I might look at as a possible cause of this problem?
  • kymikekymike Member Posts: 115
    Check your brakes. She may tend to ride the brakes in town, causing both wear on the brakes, but also poor mileage. A lot of stop and go or hilly terrain could also contribute to the problem.

    It seems to me that if you are getting OK mileage on the road but poor mileage in town that the problem is more likely related to driving style than to a mechanical problem.

    FWIW, I have a '99 and get about 16 mpg in town and fight to get over 20 on the highway.
  • mottsmotts Member Posts: 9
    Hello, I had a similar problem with slowly loosing coolant. I was also getting a coolant smell in the interior but once in a while. I ended up replacing the water pump when the timing belt was due to replace and the problem has not re-occurred since 1 year ago, hope this helps, Motts :lemon:
  • riswami1riswami1 Member Posts: 33
    Thanks for the reply. I had my water pump and timing belt changed last year. Also, I never smell coolant in side the vehicle.
  • corsicachevycorsicachevy Member Posts: 316
    I am closing in on 90,000 on my 2001 Quest and will be looking at a timing belt/water pump change. Motts and riswami1, how much did this job set you back?

    Any info you have would be helpful.
  • mottsmotts Member Posts: 9
    The work cost me $600.00 taxes included. I live in Ont. Canada. The maintenance schedule recommended my 94 Quest to replace the timing belt at 168,000 klms. The water pump is not manditory but is suggested to replace since the labour involved is the same as the timing belt, Motts
  • riswami1riswami1 Member Posts: 33
    My waterpump and timing belt change cost me $426 and change. I also had the accessory belts (3 of them) changed along with new coolant and the brake fluid flushed out and replenished. The mechanic I go to is very reasonable and compotent. I did my job on time. I didn't feel comfortable driving with the old timing belt; I'm going to keep this vehicle for awhile so it was going to get done eventually anyways.
  • hms_221hms_221 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 Mercury Villager with now over 281,000km's on it(from Ontario Canada). I have noticed lately that the Sunroof rattles a lot. I have opened and closed it to see it if is correctly closed and it seems ok. On really windy days you can hear the wind whisle through it. It doesn't leak (yet anyway). I was wondering if anyone can give me some sort of idea as to what could be possibly wrong.
  • scotth2scotth2 Member Posts: 1
    Not a bad DIY project...I spent $25 on a Goodyear Gator timing belt, about $60 on the rest of the drive belts and about $40 on a new tensioner. $125? I would think a dealer would charge $400 or more. (While you're in there, change the coolant hoses). I just pulled my original plugs after 75K miles - they were tight. It appeared as though the gaskets stuck to the heads a bit. I coated the threads of the new plugs with anti-seize.
  • najarronajarro Member Posts: 1
    i only have about 5000 miles and just this am i noticed a mild humming noise when i am accelerating just slightly. no vibration just humming.
  • activex111activex111 Member Posts: 41
    I replaced my timing belt and water pump for $387. That was exactly an year ago and my water pump started leaking again yesterday (confirmed that with another mechanic). Called up the previous mechanic and he says that it only had a six month warranty on it. quoted $300 for replacement. Is it possible for a water pump to start leaking in an year. if this is not normal can i go back to him that he used some crappy water pump which gave away?
  • david4501david4501 Member Posts: 1
    what steps do i take to replace them
  • marku1marku1 Member Posts: 11
    Prayed that it was not the exhaust studs. It was the studs! Converters were fine. Had to let the exh. mech. do the do, I would have had to pull the heads just to get a decent look at the things. He welded some build-up on the broken studs(some in the head, some flush)and then welded nuts onto the build-up and backed them out. Not a job for this driveway wrench turner(not a welder). I also changed the timing belt. I had pushed it to long(10,000 miles) past recom. replacement. I know, BIG mistake. NOTE: If you are like me and are putting off the belt change, do it this weekend! It is not hard to do yourself, it takes some time, basic tools(nothing special), you just have to unbolt and move everything out of the way. My belt was not broken but was worn enough to get the timing off. Now, the engine has all the power back, no hesitation and excessive fuel use. I am now replacing the motor mounts again! The mech. told me to replace all of them, not just the broken two. Is that necessary?
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Thanks for the update; bummer about the studs.

    That's the best justification for changing the timing belt I've seen and a good way to avoid the interference/non-interference debate entirely. :shades:

    I'm saving up to do the belt and plugs on my '99 at the same time. I don't want to tackle the plugs since I'm afraid they may be frozen a bit.

    Dunno about the motor mounts, but if half are bad (again!), changing all four may be good insurance.

    Steve, Host
  • kgdtechkgdtech Member Posts: 3
    97 Villager with rear blower not working, Help! I have a new blower, front and back control. I have voltage at both switches but nothing on the motor leads.
  • steven38steven38 Member Posts: 11
    Could be the rear blower motor resistor.If the front blower works,remove the resistor and replace the rear one with it.They are both the same.See if that works.Let me know.
  • calvin12calvin12 Member Posts: 1
    While driving recently, both front and rear blower motors stopped working. Checked fuses, both OK. Check for power to the fuses, no power. Checked relays (65a)OK, has power.
    Any ideas?
  • sopmansopman Member Posts: 46
    I have a '99 Quest with 90,000 miles. I live in the northeast, so I need my heater. It just started acting up. The temperature gauge is working the same as day one, raising up until it points to the "M" in NORMAL, then stopping. When it gets up to the "M" I'm still getting cold air out of the vents. After about 5 minutes of the gauge needle pointing at the "M", then it starts to get hot.

    I don't believe it's the thermostat, since the temperature gauge is working properly.

    Can someone help?

    Sopman
  • lincolnmanlincolnman Member Posts: 4
    we own a nissan quest 1990 gxe, now has 239000 miles on it,
    never worked on the tranny, done work two or three times on the exhaust systemfront and back...changed oils regularly, changed tyres, belts, wipers.....same fuel filter still in van to date. changed air and oil filters...still get 90 miles up hill, still get over ahundred on flat roads,( slowed down beacause of the price of tickets in Ohio}....trouble is the humming sound..still rides better than my expensive lincoln {car}. all priase to the god of nissans.
    :lemon:
  • activex111activex111 Member Posts: 41
    Hi,
    Just when i spent $380 on new brakes and water pump. now A/C compresssor stopped working on my 96 villager. Initially i thought I may have low refrigerant level so checked the pressure on the "recharge valve" with engine running and it shows 75psi, which is too high. Does it mean I have a clogged line? Is there anythign obvious i can check before taking it to the mechanic? (mechanic will charge $40 just to look at it and then the "other" charges will start..) Thanks for help in advance
  • rko11rko11 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 Villager and for the last 6 months or so have noticed the brake light coming on all the time. Of course we have checked/changed the brakes and the light is on almost all the time now. Also having problems with the automatic door locks. Sometimes they will lock themselves, and sometimes when I try to lock them they will unlock themselves. Would these problems be related? Help please! My van is driving me crazy! :(
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes Member Posts: 1,019
    I've been following this and other Villager forums and i've seen almost no transmission problems. They must use a good one. Reading about the power lock problems, I had a interesting experience. My wife called from work saying, "The van won't start. The battery's dead." I took the battery pack over and got it started. I asked if anything unusual happened on the way to work. She said the doors were locking and unlocking themselves the whole way there, even when she shut the car off! I disconnected the battery, charged it, hooked it back up, and haven't had a problem since.
    2012 Mustang Premium, 2013 Lincoln MKX Elite, 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander.
  • goodguychicagogoodguychicago Member Posts: 3
    i had a same problem with my 2000 mercury villager it was under warrenty thats why dealer changed ball joint ,strut,drive shaft,strut mount almost everything in front end but guess what ? problem was still there .dealer got tired and said its body mount which is not covered in warrenty.few months later i went for an oil change and i saw SWAY BAR STABILIZAR was bend it cost me $15 in parts and $30 in labor no more noise i hope thats the same problem you have with your van
  • goodguychicagogoodguychicago Member Posts: 3
    i had a same problem with my 2000 mercury villager it was under warrenty thats why dealer changed ball joint ,strut,drive shaft,strut mount almost everything in front end but guess what ? problem was still there .dealer got tired and said its body mount which is not covered in warrenty.few months later i went for an oil change and i saw SWAY BAR STABILIZAR was bend it cost me $15 in parts and $30 in labor no more noise i hope thats the same problem with your van
  • kgdtechkgdtech Member Posts: 3
    Where are the resistors located?
    I checked everything I could find through the owners manual and instrument layout.

    Kevin
  • shohjwhshohjwh Member Posts: 10
    I have a Nissan quest GXE 99 ~116000mile and so far no major problem... Today, when I drove on highway, several times rpm changed rapidly. normally, ~2000rpm showed but at that time, move down to ~700 then jump up to normal. Then, just before I parked my car, rpm showed ~1000 pressing brake, suddenly rpm moved 500 ~ 1200then engine stopped with all warning light on. Fortunately, I could get turn engine on without any problem. From that, at most crossing, whenever I stopped my car, engine stopped. But still no problem to engine on. No strange smell, all oil are enough. Please help me.
    Ryan.

    P.S.: sorry for bad expression but it is really hard to describe.
  • shohjwhshohjwh Member Posts: 10
    Sorry I forgot to mention several things. It happened after engine warmed up such as after driving ~20 min,then it happened. Another thing, after turned on engine, I can hear some squeeze sound something like small metal chip danced in the engine. I hope it help to find.
    Thanks

    Ryan
  • missnjustinmissnjustin Member Posts: 2
    I have a 98 Villager and 00 Quest. Both have burned-out bulbs on the dash display. My mechanic told me he doesn't want to rip me off by taking the dashboards apart to replace the bulbs so I haven't fixed them. Let me know if you find a cheap way to do it, thanks!
  • missnjustinmissnjustin Member Posts: 2
    our 98 villager just started doing strange things with the power door locks - at any given time, some lock/unlock and some don't, but there's no problem with the brake light.
  • aerosnowaerosnow Member Posts: 13
    Can anyone tell me where I can get this part cheaper than the Stealer?

    Part# F6XZ2B547AB
    Price $248.10
  • luther4luther4 Member Posts: 1
    david,i had the same,but my dash,radio and all was out,i found that the dimmer switch had a lot to do with it,i just used a paper clip one night and jump the power,it worked for me,i did it at night so i could see when the dash lit up.back yard stuff.u can just pull the whole component out,dimmer,light switch and all,or buy a new one and try that,let me know.
  • activex111activex111 Member Posts: 41
    Hi Steve or any other villager experts.. can someone please give me some direction on my query below? THANKS

    A/C compresssor stopped working on my 96 villager. Initially i thought I may have low refrigerant level so checked the pressure on the "recharge valve" with engine running and it shows 75psi, which is too high. Does it mean I have a clogged line? Is there anythign obvious i can check before taking it to the mechanic? (mechanic will charge $40 just to look at it and then the "other" charges will start..) Thanks for help in advance
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    You must mean a different Steve :shades:, but I looked through my '99's service manual. Looks like any number of things could be the problem, including a bad compressor, low pressure switch stuck open, restricted or plugged suction line, orifice O rings leaking, moisture or excessive lubricant in the system, loose compressor belt, slipping or seized compressor clutch, clutch coil open (shorted or loose), A/C relay (dirty contacts or stuck open) or compressor operation interrupted by ECM (not even sure if your '96 has a full blown ECM).

    Try the Climate Control Problems (Air Conditioning, Heat) - All Cars discussion too.

    Steve, Host
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes Member Posts: 1,019
    I'm going to put new brake pads on my '01 Villager this weekend. Does anyone know what socket( I'm assuming it's an Allen head type) I would need to get the caliper bolts out? Thanks for any help.
    2012 Mustang Premium, 2013 Lincoln MKX Elite, 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander.
  • svaratisvarati Member Posts: 1
    There was a class action on this manufacturing defect. Nissan replaced the Throttle Body assembly free and I got money(some) back on my first TB cleaning. If you still own the van you can get TB replaced by dealer. Check with your dealer or Nissan.

    V
  • dhoffdhoff Member Posts: 282
    Toomany-

    The caliper bolts are Torx bits. Sorry, I don't remember the size. When I did my brakes I bought an assorted set that fits a socket wrench. Some folks have had trouble getting these bolts out & have broken the bits, so beware. Other than that these brakes are pretty easy to work on. You might want to pick up some bolts to thread in the holes in the rotors to get those off.

    Dave

    PS Hosts - can we get Torx in the spellcheck dictionary? I'll have to remember that word next time I play Scrabble...
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    probably an illegal word ;)
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    It's a T40 from one of your posts back in February '04. ;)

    My factory manual irritates me on fasteners; it gives torque requirements for every one, but it never tells you the bolt or nut size required.

    Steve, Host
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes Member Posts: 1,019
    Thanks for the replies. It is a T40, I have a set I bought for another project, I crawled under the van and checked, and it fit.
    2012 Mustang Premium, 2013 Lincoln MKX Elite, 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander.
  • stigmatastigmata Member Posts: 10
    I had the front and rear go out on my '95. The rear was a bad relay on the heater control board and the front was a bad resistor.. Just went to the boneyard and pick one up because new they are close to 400 bucks I think.
This discussion has been closed.