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Chevrolet Lumina

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Comments

  • windup_birdwindup_bird Member Posts: 23
    I had owned the 90 Lumina Euro for three and a half years, but after the AC broke for the second time iabout three weeks ago, I decided to buy a new car and sell it. It had 100,000 miles when I bought it in 1999 and 134,000 miles when I sold it yesterday. During my ownership, I replaced the water pump, windshield washer pump, rear struts, alternator, battery, and two tires. The coolant kept leaking for a long time, and I had to take it to the shop several times until it was fixed completely. The driver's seat belt got stuck, and the remote trunk lid lever broke too, and it had recently started to show multiple oil leaks as well. On the positive side, I enjoyed the power everything and the powerful V6 engine. It was spacious, heavy and sturdy and I felt safe driving in it. It consumed lots of gas, but I didn't mind it that much; after al, it had a big engine! My previous car, Nissan Sentra with a 1.6-litter engine, was a basic model and everything was manual. I didn't even have the power steering! So compared to that, I enjoyed the luxurious feel of a mid-size family sedan. (I especially liked the leather steering wheel!) I had always wanted to drive a good old American car (before the Sentra, I had a 1988 Toyota Carolla), so I enjoyed that too. It was my first automatic, and although I enjoyed not having to shift the gear, I missed the stick, and decided to go back to a 5-speed for my next car, a 2002 Hyundai Elantra GLS. People say that the GLS has a soft suspension, but coming from the Lumina, it sure feels very firm. I bought the Lumina for $2,500 in 1999 and sold it for $1,200. The expenses for maintenance and regular oil changes cost me about $1,800 over the three and a half years. The total cost of the ownership was certainly cheaper than owning a brand-new car, but I figured it was time to move on.
  • windup_birdwindup_bird Member Posts: 23
    When the timing belt is torn and if you have an interference engine, the valves are destroyed and it could cause an irrevocable damage. My Nissan Sentra 1985 had that kind of engine and died when its timing belt got torn out of the blue. I don't think you feel any symptoms in advance. So as a preventive measure, it's a good idea to replace the timing belt even if you don't have an interference engine so you won't get stranded on the road. A mechanic told me that my 1990 Lumina Euro had a timing chain so there was no need to replace it, although I suppose that it too could get torn in the long run.
  • flog66flog66 Member Posts: 4
    I'm looking for a '97 or '98 Lumina and I'm hoping to find one with either a 3.4 or 3.8L engine. I'm starting to think that they dont exist. Every single Lumina that I've seen so far is equipped with the 3.1L. I was hoping to get some feedback about the different engines and whether or not you're happy with the 3.1. Should I hold out until I find either the 3.4 or 3.8 or should I "settle" for the 3.1? All opinions appreciated. Thanks.
  • bearmerbearmer Member Posts: 37
    I have a '99 LTZ with the 3.8L. I think the engine was an LTZ option in '98 and standard in '99. I don't think the 3.4L pushrod engine has ever been offered. The 3.4L DOHC may have been an option earlier. I'm not sure. That engine was said to be powerful but troublesome.

    I've bought several used cars at General Services Administration (GSA) auctions. A few years ago there were a lot of base Luminas with police options and 3.8L engines being sold. They may still be around.

    The 3.1L has chronic intake manifold leaks and piston slap, serious and expensive problems. You can look at "Common General Motor's 2.8, 3.1, 3.4 V6's engine problems" here on Edmunds and alt.autos.gm on the Usenet. There are also lots of trouble free 3.1Ls that their owners like. You have to decide. My 3.8L is okay.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    Has anyone had problems with their 4T60-E? My brother has a 1997 Lumina LS with the 3100 and the 4T60-E. He recently had the "check engine" light come on, and a local shop said the code was "shift solenoid A electrical". I know there is a shift solenoid A and B that controls the shifting. As far as I know, he still has all the gears working. He said it feels sluggish, and sounded like he meant it shifts slowly, but perhaps it is starting in 2nd and he doesn't realize it. Anyway, the repair was quoted at $2,000 so I'm trying to help him find alternatives. Has anyone had success dealing with this problem without having the tranny torn open and the parts replaced? Thanks!
  • flog66flog66 Member Posts: 4
    I was leaning toward the 3.8L to begin with and after reading your replies I think that's the way to go. Now I just have to find one. Any other discussion on this topic is welcome. I'd like to read as many opinions as possible. Thanks again!
  • pluto5pluto5 Member Posts: 618
    I have the 3.1 in my 97 which I consider a work car and it is adequate for commuting. Had no problems except for the alternator which seems to be a weak point. No problem with gaskets but engine only has 31K miles. The 3.1 has a good reputation but I would expect some problems if you get one with high mileage. I'm getting the 3.8 in my Impala. The 3.4 is louder than the 3.1 in the Lumina, so given a choice I would go with the 3.8, too.
  • mje33mje33 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1999 LTZ with the 3800. I have an intermittent problem that sometimes when I turn the key, there is a slight delay before it starts. It seems to act up more when the weather is cold and damp. I have had it at the dealer a few times but there isn't much they can do if the car won't do it when its there (yes, I brought it there when it was cold and damp). Today it outright wouldn't start (engine warm) on several tries. When I turned the key, all lights came on, I heard a low hum for a few seconds which stopped, then nothing. I gave it a few minutes and then it started. Has anyone else had this problem?
  • scatmanscatman Member Posts: 5
    Like I said I have a 96 Lumina with a 3.4, it is a vary powerful engine but also very temperamental. you have to take very good care of it or it will not last forever. it is said that the 3.8 is the best best engine ever made by GM for todays cars. I am currently trying to look for one to replace my 3.4. the 3.4 is also a very expensive engine. I have owned mine for just under a year I have put 25000 miles on it and have only had minor problems, but expensive. so if I was you I would keep looking for the 3.8 and don't "settle" for the 3.1 it is a gutless wonder, too small for the car.
  • mje33mje33 Member Posts: 2
    Update: I tried using a brand new car from my wife's key ring and (knock on wood) I haven't had a problem since. I noticed some wear marks on the old key and the resistor chip embedded in it felt very worn compared to the new key.
  • scatmanscatman Member Posts: 5
    Hi, I'm an owner of a 1996 3.4L Chevy Lumina... its an awesome car I love it, but I'm running into yet another problem, the fans on the radiator like to come on when the car is cold. today 11/20 it was about 34 degrees out side and when I started my car the fan came right on... I drove it 35 miles to school and when I shut the car off, the fans stayed on. it did it to me before in the summer but then the car was running hot, now that its winter time its not so hot outside and the engine temp. gage didn't say that it was hot.. so what could be the reason for my fans to come on???
  • dshepherd3dshepherd3 Member Posts: 194
    Coolant temp sensor could be bad, reading hot, but this would usually cause hard starting cold also, I would look for a bad coolant fan relay, first.
  • pluto5pluto5 Member Posts: 618
    I rode in a Lumina cab in Dallas this week with 3.1 motor. 266K miles. Another happy owner.
  • keng48keng48 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 lumina with 99000 miles on it...dervice engine soon light came on, brought ot to local mech. he said it just need tuneup, after spending a few dollars, light still on, now they want it for annother 3 hrs. to saying its missfireing and needing the injector replaced/repaired..another good buck, i ve been thinking of getting new car, but with this being an issue, is it worth it to repair (hopefully as he wasnt sure that this would correct it) or should just trade in? any body have a good idea?

    tks
  • pluto5pluto5 Member Posts: 618
    take it to a a shop with diagnostic equipment to find out what the problem is before you spend money on fixing anything; may be able to have it done free at Auto Zone
  • scatmanscatman Member Posts: 5
    hi me again... i just took my lumina in to have the antifreeze leak check, both head gaskets are bad and it cost roughly 850 dollers to have them fixed...is it worth it or should i trade it in and get a different newer car with less miles?
  • dshepherd3dshepherd3 Member Posts: 194
    Be careful with that diagnosis, it is more likely int. manifold gaskets, this was very common on the 3.1.
  • hookramerhookramer Member Posts: 8
    i am also an owner of the 3.4 lumina and the fan sometimes stays on or goes on when its not hot ,,but another thing that bothers me recently is when i start the car after a drive within an hour it will start then shut off,,im wondering if a tune up would help,or just spark plugs?? any info appreciated
    thanks
  • hookramerhookramer Member Posts: 8
    i just want to make it clearer,,,after a drive if i come back to start my car it may start but then shut off within a sec.
  • scatmanscatman Member Posts: 5
    my 3.4 stalls alot too... usualy only right after i start it but sometimes it will do it when i park it too. im not sure what to say. i love my car but the little things drive me nuts.
  • sealantsealant Member Posts: 2
    How do you remove the pressure hose fitting at the rack end? I have a 96 with a 3.1 and I can't find an angle to get a clean grip on this fitting. It looks like I'll have to remove the brake booster to get at it. Any ideas?
    Thanks!
  • emmanuelchokeemmanuelchoke Member Posts: 97
    I just put new KYB's on the LTZ, a fairly unpleasant task. Paid $220 for all four at the Tire Rack. Got the necessary tools from Auto Zone under their free loaner program. When I took the cartridges out of the front struts, they came out in two separate pieces and most of the hydraulic fluid had leaked out. The rear struts felt weak with erratic dampening, so I guess they were shot too. How long are struts supposed to last? The car has 50,000 miles. Have a good'n!
  • pluto5pluto5 Member Posts: 618
    It depends how much hill hopping you do, but I've got one vehicle with 62K miles on original struts.
  • emmanuelchokeemmanuelchoke Member Posts: 97
    I just looked it up, and Yahoo autos says struts generally last from 30 to 60 thousand miles. I didn't know that. The only signs that the struts were worn is the tires were cupping badly after 15,000 miles. Ruined them in fact. The car passed the bounce test, rode smoothly, handled O.K and there were no external oil leaks from the suspension.
         The new struts provided an added bonus over the expected results. They eliminated a clicking, popping noise from the front of the car whenever I turned the steering wheel, either stationary or moving at low speeds. It sounded like a bad CV joint. They got rid of most of the rattles too.
  • pluto5pluto5 Member Posts: 618
    IMO this is not a DIY job for most people. You can risk serious injury.
  • emmanuelchokeemmanuelchoke Member Posts: 97
    If you are not careful, it can be extremely dangerous, especially when compressing the coil springs. You have to follow the instructions exactly.
         I've done most of the work on my cars for years now and struts are nothing new, but if you are unfamiliar with suspension replacement, I strongly urge you to leave it to the pros. I was addressing the people who have enough ability to undertake this repair,and they know who they are, but I was negligent in pointing out the potential for serious injury to those with little or no experience. So pluto5, thanks for bringing this up. By the way, how's the Impala? I've been lurking in that forum for months now.
  • pluto5pluto5 Member Posts: 618
    Very pleased with Imp, LS is worth the diff over the base IMO and still a great value esp. with all available rebates and discounts. I want to run the Lumina for at least 4 more years and then buy another Imp after I rebuild my GM card earnings since we need 3 cars.
  • emmanuelchokeemmanuelchoke Member Posts: 97
    All this cold weather has me wondering why the Automobile Manufacturers haven't yet put a small electric heating grid in the air distribution plenum. It would cut down on the warm up time, save gas.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Member Posts: 1,565
    Do you mean an electric heater for the passenger cabin air, or an electric heater for the combustion air intake to the engine?

    Either way, it would not save gas. You are using electricity to run any electric heater, and that is generated by the alternator, which uses engine power, thus consuming gas.

    Internal combustion engines by laws of thermodynamics never will be 100% efficient. The waste heat energy has to be dissipated anyway, so part of that waste heat is what is used to heat the passenger compartment in the winter. It is not a good idea to use electricity generated by the alternator to heat the passenger compartment when you have all this "free" energy available anyways.

    Some cars seem to direct the initial waste heat generated after a cold start much more quickly to the passenger compartment than others, however.
  • emmanuelchokeemmanuelchoke Member Posts: 97
    Passenger comfort was primarily what I was thinking of. Just a small electric heating element somewhere in the duct work. It could sense the temperature of the heater core and shut off when the coolant reached a predetermined temperature. Basically it would eliminate those few miserable
    moments before the engine warms up.
         They've got heated mirrors, heated seats, heated steering wheels and Ford used to have the instaclear windshield, so this just seemed like the next logical step.
         At work people start their cars and let them idle for at least ten minutes to warm the cars. The gas saving I was thinking of would come from less warm up time. Just a thought.
  • bearmerbearmer Member Posts: 37
    Well, a portable electric heater for a room consumes about 1200W. To get that much heat in a car, it would draw 100A from the 12V electrical system. They're not designed for a heavy load like that. Some starters don't draw that much. Even one with half that dissapation, 50A, wouldn't be sustainable, I don't think. Auto electrical systems are too anemic.
  • tassitassi Member Posts: 13
    I have a 99 Lumina LTZ with 86,000 miles. Just recently I have lost 5 miles per gallon on my mileage. Has anyone else experienced this and what is the fix. With gas prices going sky high it's not a good time to be losing this mileage. Is it the fuel injectors? Help....
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    Have you ever changed the fuel filter?
    What's the weather like in your part of the country? If it's colder than normal, this could be the issue (especially if you warm up your car).
    Did your area switch to RFG (reformulated gas), which causes a drop in fuel efficiency?
    Any other changes to your driving style?
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    A couple of questions about your fuel mileage decrease.
    Has the check engine light come one?
    Are you losing coolant?
    Is it the 3.1L or 3.8L?
    Have you noticed any coolant leaks around the rear of the block?
    If it is the 3.1L, these engines are prone to intake leaks. When that happens, fule economy suffers, as well as eventually causing problems with injectors.
  • tassitassi Member Posts: 13
    I have the 3.8L engine. The weather has been cold but it hasn't happened in previous years. No I haven't changed the fuel filter yet. Do you think I should do that first? I have noticed that the temp gage doesn't get much past the 100degree mark so I'm not sure if it's the thermostat. I did notice some sort of leak but I haven't had time to really research where it's coming from. As far as the type of gas I'm using, I don't believe it's RFG.
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    If you've got 86k mi. and haven't changed the fuel filter, I'd suggest doing that first and foremost.

    As for your leak observation, the 3.8L Series II, like the 3.1, is prone to intake manifold leaks (go see the Bonneville board for more data). GM switched to plastic intake manifolds, which crack/warp, allowing coolant to leak and get into the engine. Best to get this checked out ASAP, as the longer this goes on, the more damage (and more expensive the repair).

    Re: your temp gauge, I'd check that out as well - doesn't sound right (though I remember my Lumina tended to always run on the cool side - gauge rarely went past the 11:00 position (don't remember the temp markings).

    The cold weather can definitely affect fuel consumption. I no longer have a Lumina - own a '98 Aurora. I usually get ~20 mph (not bad for a 250 HP V-8 in a 4000 lb car) average in mostly city driving, but that drops to 18 or worse when the temps fall below 25 degrees for any extended period of time.

    Hope this helps,

    --Robert
  • pluto5pluto5 Member Posts: 618
    Any suggestions on how to access the thermostat on the 3.1?
  • dshepherd3dshepherd3 Member Posts: 194
    On the 3.1 you must remove the throttle body, if the temps don't run at 190 degrees the mileage can be adversely affected in any modern efi engine.
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    Tassi,
    First determine where the leak is. Then confirm that the coolant temp is as low as the guage s stating.
    More than likely the low coolant temp is what is affecting the mileage.

    dshepherd3,
    On the 3.1 you must remove the throttle body

    Incorrect.
    According to GM's information system.

    V6-3100 3.1L VIN M SFI
    Removal Procedure
    Tools Required
    J 38185 Hose Clamp Pliers
    Partially drain the cooling system. Refer to Draining and Filling Cooling System.
    Carefully remove the throttle body air inlet duct.
    Use the J 38185 in order reposition the hose clamp at the thermostat housing.
    Disconnect the radiator hose from the thermostat housing.
    Remove the thermostat housing bolts.
    Remove the thermostat housing and gasket.
    Remove the thermostat.
    Clean the mating surfaces.
    Install the thermostat.
    Install the thermostat housing and the gasket to the intake manifold. Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
    Install the thermostat housing bolts with RTV sealer GM P/N 1052366 or the equivalent.
    Tighten the thermostat housing bolts to 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
    Connect the radiator hose to the thermostat housing.
    Use the J 38185 in order reposition and install the hose clamp at the thermostat housing.
    Carefully install the throttle body air inlet duct.
    Fill the cooling system. Refer to Draining and Filling Cooling System.
    Inspect the system for leaks.
  • emmanuelchokeemmanuelchoke Member Posts: 97
    Say, the 04 Mustang looks awfully tempting. It's supposed to go on sale in about a year, and by then my 95 Lumina should have over 200k miles. It's still running fine at 175k. I had to have a power window motor replaced to pass state inspection, cost $160 parts and labor. Other than that, it's been a fairly trouble free car.
  • pluto5pluto5 Member Posts: 618
    You're trading a stable ride for a twitchy one if you trade your Lumina for a Mustang IMO.
  • dallas789dallas789 Member Posts: 1
    Ok well I am about fed up with this vehicle...it is midnight the 14th of Feb, I must go to work in the morning so I will make this short and add to it in the next day or so. Anyway I read all of the posts about the Luminas pertaining to the yr of my car. I have had all of the injector problems, alternator problems. Paid much money for repairs and am thinking of trading it in but I would hate to take on another payment since it is paid off. I really think this 3.1 engine is alot of trouble. For instance the dealer told me what fuel am I using...I told them what kind they told me in return "we cannot tell you what gas to buy but I would stay away from that one." Now that was one time, another time same thing stay away from the other gas I jokingly said what gas should I use if you are going to slowly eliminate all the gases I buy, and they said stick to one and put injector cleaner along with it. I think this is bogus and am considering some kind of stiffer action. Also after changing the alternator out for the 2nd time in 2 yrs. the service engine soon light is on again...maybe the injectors again wowweeee. Also the hard steering at low rpm's is evident, when I give the gas it steers much better...more noticeable when turning especially. Any help would be appreciated!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • pluto5pluto5 Member Posts: 618
    IMO you should find an independent repair shop. If you had a bad alternator before why not try a replacement with a rebuilt one from a reputable rebuilder for the second time around? It's like not marrying the same woman twice!

    The fuel injector cleaner is probably good advice--thanks for the reminder I'm going to get some of that Chevron brand.........
  • tassitassi Member Posts: 13
    I've done some more research on my mpg problem that I've been having and I've been told to change my O2 sensor just after the manifold. Since I have 86K on the original, I was told to change it. This makes more sense to me that the fuel filter etc. I don't have any performance problems other than an engine whining. But when I tried to change the O2 sensor behind the engine I couldn't get it out. Does anyone have a helping tip for me to change that out? Since there isn't much room I can't get enough torque on the sensor to break it free. Getting back to that engine whine. Anybody else have similar problems?
  • dshepherd3dshepherd3 Member Posts: 194
    There is a 10 dollar socket for the sensor, you can use an open end or a ratchet wrench depending on room limitations, but how do you know it's bad, should get a scanner on the engine and see if the sensor is acting accordingly, remember in colder weather the mileage drop is evident, my 97 looses about 4 mpg in NO. NYS. The whine, is it all the time or only in gear when accelerating, repost on this I have some suggestions.
  • tassitassi Member Posts: 13
    The engine noise (whining) gets louder as the rpm's increase. It also whines as it's idling. As for the O2 sensor, I have the tools to change it out but I can't get it loose. I've had my car for 4 years now and I've never had a problem in the winters with a loss of mpg and I live in one of the coldest areas in the winter. When you changed your thermostat, did the mpg increase or did it have no impact? I have similar problems with taking my car long to heat up.
  • dshepherd3dshepherd3 Member Posts: 194
    The slow warm up, if not just the extreme cold can certainly affect your mileage, try tapping the base of the sensor to loosen any rust, make sure the pipe is dead cold it will come out easier, I changed mine at 150k, no difference. The whine, many of these 4t60e transmissions have a constant whine, mild at idle and more noticeable on acclereation, seems this is the torque convertor, Ive had it since new.
  • hobasilhobasil Member Posts: 7
    Hello everybody,

    I came across a 1999 ex-opp white Lumina for 5 thousand Canadian. It has the 3800II, 4t65e transmission, recaro seats, stiff suspension, H rated tires(max speed 130mph) and the odometer says 147k km (92k miles). After taking it for a drive last week I found no apparent flaws such as pulling to one side, engine whine or rough shift points. To my surprise when I check the dipstick for the automatic transmission fluid, it is showing bright pink fluids which indicates the fluid is fairly new.

    What advice would you have for this situation? The price is right and the car is in relatively good shape, I know it would be hard pressed to find a late model vehicle in the 5000 dollar (CDN) price range, and this one has the 3800II in it which is a big plus. I have always enjoy the power the 3800II outputs, and its smoothness and reliability. Anyways, I would like to take the car home next week unless somebody comes with a convincing reason for me not to.

    This is my first time car shopping, I would appreciate any suggestions and comments. Thanks in advance.

    Basil
  • dshepherd3dshepherd3 Member Posts: 194
    I don't think you can go wrong, the engine and trans combo are very strong, the price is right.
  • norris515norris515 Member Posts: 1
    I recently purchased a '2000 Lumina 3.1L from a fleet. Car shifts smooth until driven approx. 50-100 miles, then it starts to shift hard & gets progressively harder as the trans. heats up I suppose. I can park the car for a short period of time & it shifts ok until it heats up again. Shifting gets to a point where it really bangs hard & shakes the whole car. Any thoughts or ideas are greatly appreciated.
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