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Chevrolet Lumina

191012141517

Comments

  • joeknj29joeknj29 Member Posts: 1
    I had a '92 euro took it to 167k - now I have a 96' lumina it's at 163k and haven't doen any work on it in a long time. It just needs a switch box - about $150. Otherwise don't feel anything going - hope it goes till 200k
  • rusty30rusty30 Member Posts: 2
    Where do I begin? I loved our '97'Lumina when we first bought it in April of 2000. It had 48,000 miles on it with one previous owner. One thing after another started going wrong with it 4months after we got it. Thank goodness for the extended warranty we purchased with it. Which at the time we thought was a waste of money. Quite the contrary.This is just a few of the things that started going wrong. 1)4new tires and just started over heating. 2)11/00-replaced power steering pump & repaired vacuum line hose,(twice),3)3/2001-Replaced transmission,$2993.27, 4)Replaced water pump(twice),5)Replaced both front struts, 6)Replaced alternator(twice),7)Re sealed intake manifold(twice),8)Re surfaced rotors(twice),9)Replaced serpentine belt & belt tensioner, 10)Have replaced all 4-tires 4times since we bought it. 11)Replaced #3shift solenoid &TCC solenoid & sensor, 12)Replaced battery(twice), 13)Replaced vehicle speed sensor. These are the things we've had repaired since buying the car April 2000. Thanks to our extended warranty we were able to repair all these things before it expired. But! Now we have new problems and the car now has 95000 miles on almost all city driving and of course we just got it paid off in May of this year and there is no more warranty. 1)excessive coolant loss going somewhere,it's not leaking out and were not using it. 2)excessive power steering loss, ALOT! 3)transmission is not shifting right again. After it warms up a little it likes surges around 45 to 50 miles an hour until you apply the gas a little, and it only does this in overdrive. we always drive in overdrive in town it drives alot better and gets better gas mileage. 3)The check engine light stays on ALL the time and has since about 4months after we bought it. And yes each time we've taken the car in for repairs the check it and say they couldn't find anything wrong and they turn it off'just so it can turn back on after we have gone 2blocks down the road.How many times you ask? Well put it this way we finally got tired of their answers so it is still on after 3years. 4)Turn signals & hazards don't operate,along with the gas gauge,it says full when it's actually empty, 5)Our power windows work when they want to, and the dashboard lights going to the radio and heater/cooler controls work intermittenly and one by one going out all the way. And 1 last sour remark about my dream car it has a ticking sound on start-up in the morning. Which really worries me since that's how our Toyota 4x4 started doing before we sunk a few thousand into it. Finally I gave it away at a mere $1200.00 as is. But you see this is my husband and mine only vehicle. People say were stupid for not getting rid of it, yes I agree but out credit isn't that great and we can't or don't want the payments again. If someone out has any idea about the tranny problems I would sure appreciate any replies. Everything else we can slowly get fixed. And don't get me wrong we probably just got a bad one. But it sure drives really nice, too bad we can't take it out of town any more at least until can get the tranny fixed. This is a "97" 4-door sedan in good body shape and interior. 3.1 L engine. HELP!!
  • dshepherd3dshepherd3 Member Posts: 194
    Was the trans an exchange GM unit, by the price it sounds like one , if so, they are factory warranted for 3 years and 50k. If the oil was changed regularly and the engine is not sludged up, the noise may be the famous and relatively harmless piston slap. Who is resetting it and sending you down the road, this is wrong and you need to address with the shop! What is wrong that it comes back, this could be trans. related.
  • rusty30rusty30 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for your reply. Yes it was a GM unit & 3yrs,50k. And yes we have always changed the fluids like clock work. And the GM dealer is the ones that kept sending us on down the road after resetting the engine light along with our regular mechanic and the mechanics that we took it to the last time(which was just 2months ago)the transmission needed the shift solenoid and TCC and sensor replaced. Don't get me wrong the last two mechanics fixed what was wrong those times but they said they put it on the diagonstic machine for the light problem but found nothing. The GM dealer mechanic told me the first time that he forgot to clear the codes from previous repair work,second time(1week later)he was quite agitated with me but did a scan test anyway and found a cracked vacuum line and fixed it and cleared codes again. I wasn't even 3 blocks down the street this time and it came back on. I have stopped going to them since then and since the warranty has run out. Everytime I took it to them something else went totally wrong. I have taken it back to them the last time when I had trouble with the sensor and solenoids, only because I didn't know if the warranty on the trans covered those things or not. And of course they said no. It would cost me another $1,000.00 to look at it and repair it. Well I said no way and took to a transmission shop for the repairs and it only cost me $395.00. Go figure.
  • tassitassi Member Posts: 13
    Can you explain in a little more detail the surge you say is happening at 45-50mph? I think I have something similar happening to my lumina but it is a '99 Ltz with the 3.8l. It seems to happen only in OD and after the engine/tranny have warmed up. For example, if I'm traveling 55mph and start going up a hill, I'll press the accelerator and it surges until I press hard enough and it kicks down a gear. Does that sound like the problem you had? I'm scared to find out it's the transmission and will cost me$$$$$. What did the mech. do for this problem?
  • tomcat630tomcat630 Member Posts: 854
    To the one looking at that '96, I say get it. Sounds like it was well maintained.
  • jugster2jugster2 Member Posts: 4
    We now only have a little over 62,000 miles on our 1996 Lumina bought new in April, 1996. Only repair outside of regular scheduled maintenance, has been a rebuilt alternator at around 40,000 miles. Just recently put a new set of tires on at 57,000 miles. Went with the Firestone FR680 radials and after 5,000 miles so far, they seem like an excellent tire for this mid-sized sedan. Those OEM B.F.Goodrich T/A radials were a darn tire, never had a bit of trouble through 57,000 miles. Considered replacing the same, but they are French made (Owned by Michelin) and we didn't want to aid the enemy as you know! Besides these Firestones were $100 cheaper on a set of four and as I previously said seem to really suit this car. This Lumina has been one of the better car's or light truck's that we have owned. Guess GM did get one product done right during the 1990's.
  • tassitassi Member Posts: 13
    Has anyone experienced a problem getting there Lumina to proper engine running temperature? My needle barely gets off the minimum reading and I've changed the thermostat and that didn't help. Does anyone know where else the problem could be? I summitted a previous line talking about my Lumina jerking when in overdrive. My tranny mechanic told me it's probably a lockout problem in the tranny but he said he couldn't tell because he couldn't get my engine temp to the proper degree. I've changed my thermostat and the temp doesn't change. Anybody have some ideas what I need to do before I take it in to a mechanic?
  • kcwolfpack59kcwolfpack59 Member Posts: 122
    These cars have a very specific for opening the air bleed screws for the cooling system. You need to have an owner's manual for instructions. This purges the air from the system allowing the coolant to get up to temperature and circulate water to the heater core.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Consumers' Most Wanted Vehicles for 2004 Survey is posted and ready for your input!
  • emoun1emoun1 Member Posts: 2
    Hey, I am having this same prob on my 200 gmc 1500 truck, they hav replaced the shift solenoid A adn wiring harness and i have since had to take it back cause it's doing the same thing. My service engine soon light came on and the code they gave me was 0753 which is Shift solenoid A-electrical, what was done for your situation?? thanks!
  • george2002george2002 Member Posts: 13
    I have a '99 Monte Carlo ( bascially a Lumina but with 2 doors) with 75,000 miles on it . It has the 3.8 litre and those usually go 200,000 miles or so without any trouble. What engine does your '98 have?
  • george2002george2002 Member Posts: 13
    Is that for the 3.8 litre ? My Monte Carlo runs very cold as well but I haven't really worried about it until I started reading the posts here .
  • dshepherd3dshepherd3 Member Posts: 194
    My 98 LTZ 3800 runs at what appears to be to cold on the temp guage, used a scanner to see actual readings, was 202 warmed up.
  • kcwolfpack59kcwolfpack59 Member Posts: 122
    Mine is the 3.1. The gauge goes over the half way mark when left to idle without the AC on. I am told this is normal and the fans kick on at 210 or so. The gauge is sensitive in the middle of the range. I was freaked out at first but have not had problems in 7 years.
  • amosmoses1amosmoses1 Member Posts: 2
    My mom's 1999 Lumina (3.1 L V6) will only blow the a/c fan through the dash windshield defrost vents, not through the floor or front of console vents.

    All fuses intact, switch for fan speed works. Is this most likely electrical problem (switch) or mechanical (some sort of baffle in vent duct which redirects air)?

    Any suggestions of where to look first?

    Thanks in advance.

    Bubba
  • dshepherd3dshepherd3 Member Posts: 194
    Look for vacuum problems on this, check the vacuum storage tank behind the l/s of the front bumper at the front of the fender behind the splash shield the line can crack or the tank is bad
  • rwsmithrwsmith Member Posts: 3
    Good Morning,

    First of all I gave up figuring out how to post in the Chevy Lumina section; therefore, I am posting here. Sorry, if anyone can explain to me how to do that I'd appreciate it very much.

    Today my Econolube guy told me that I desperately needed to replace my intake manifold gaskets...cost: $500.

    Of course, I haven't a clue what that means except he's probably right.

    Is that a fair price for a 1995 Lumina with 122,000 miles???

    Thanks so much!

    Cheri
  • mitzijmitzij Member Posts: 613
    price sounds about right, if labor rate is about $60 per hour.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    and I'm moving a couple of posts here ...
  • rwsmithrwsmith Member Posts: 3
    Thanks,

    Is there anything I must do to prepare (questions to ask the mechanic, etc) to protect myself in the event of worse case scenarios when dealing with auto shops???

    I am a novice and this is my first time for such a relatively expensive repair; not to mention a bit intimidating.

    Thanks!

    Cheri
  • simon8simon8 Member Posts: 1
    MY PARK /HEADLIGHTS AND DASH LIGHTS HAVE A MIND OF THIER OWN.
    THEY WILL WORK WHEN THEY WANT.IT LOOKS TO ME THAT THERE MUST BE A SENSOR OF SOME SORT TO HAVE THE NIGHT LIGHTS TO COME ON WHEN IT STARTS TO GET DARK.WHEN IT IS WORKING RIGHT I DONT HAVE TO TURN THE NIGHT LIGHTS(PARK/HEADLGHTS AND DASH LIGHTS)ON WITH THE HEADLIGHT SWITCH BECAUSE THEY COME ON AUTOMATIC BUT NOW THEY WON'T COME ON AT ALL ONLY THE HEADLIGHTS BECAUSE THEY ARE ON ALL THE TIME.CAN ANYONE HELP IN ANY WAY WITH THIS PROBLEM BECAUSE THE CAR CAN'T BE USED AFTER DARK.?
  • greenfroggreenfrog Member Posts: 1
    It's a mystery to me, I just got this Lumina and the next day it won't start when it's in park, but works in Neutral, am I missing something here or is there a technical problem with this. Any help would be great.
  • kerryace2000kerryace2000 Member Posts: 2
    Anybody know what is wrong with a 93 model lumina that has coolant dripping from apparently a drainage hose on the passenger side firewall ?After driving 20 miles or so,I get a low coolant warning and I see a slow dripping flow of coolant from a hose with 90 degree bend located on the firewall.The 3.1 litre motor has problems with coolant leaks from what I have heard.I guess I need to disassemble the instrument panel dash and examine the heater core.Any comments or advice are wellcome.Thanks...
  • kerryace2000kerryace2000 Member Posts: 2
    Probably your fan(s) arent running.
  • amazineamazine Member Posts: 11
    Cheri,
    I'm on my second lumina with the 3.1 and its almost automatic that the intake manifold will warp and need to be replaced. Its shouldn't be a big deal for your guys to fix this for you. After mine was replaced I'm still going strong 70,000 miles later.
  • buckjohnsonbuckjohnson Member Posts: 2
    im i being had,i found 1998 lumina 3.8 recaro seats,clean in and out car drives well. is 3,000 too
    high of a price. also the car has 144k on it.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    You can try asking Terry (rroyce10) in our Real-World Trade-In Values discussion. Be sure to include all the necessary information that is listed in red above the post box.
  • 99lumina99lumina Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 Lumina, and same problem with the seat. Did you ever figure out how to move it further back?
  • rayrocrayroc Member Posts: 1
    I'm having a vacuum problem with my Lumina. My a/c blows out at the bottom, the cruise does not work, and the overdrive does not work properly. On the overdrive, if you are going up a hill it will start a little jerk, not hard but if I accelerate and it switches to drive it is ok. If I'm going on level ground it does fine, most of the time. Please help. Any suggestions?
  • w0bymagnusw0bymagnus Member Posts: 19
    I have a 98 Chevy Lumina...the engine idle is really rough, and the engine light is on..sometimes it even blinks...but the car doesn't stall ever. The spark plugs were replaced and everything...but that didnt help.
  • mike70mike70 Member Posts: 1
    You may have a vacuum leak. Ours was blowing out the bottom.
  • luminaltzmanluminaltzman Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone know where I can find or buy bolt on performance parts for my 98 Lumina LTZ, it has a 3800 series engine. There doesn't seem to be anything out there, only parts for Pontiac Grand Prixs. I would like to boost the horsepower a little with out tearing the engine down since it runs great and only has 50,000 miles one it. I would also like to add horsepower at a reasonible cost too. Thanks for any help or suggestions.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    You might also want to ask that in our brand new Speed Shop: Tuning & Modification board.
  • big8ptbuckbig8ptbuck Member Posts: 1
    We have a 1998 Lumina with the same issue. Did you resolve this? If so, what was the fix? Thanks.
  • ryanrp1ryanrp1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 Lumina and my Low Oil Light stays on all the time, the dip stick says otherwise. Even after an oil change it still comes on. I figure the sensor is malfunctioning. It this easy to change or does it have to be changed be a pro? Also, where is the sensor located?
  • luminaguyluminaguy Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone know where the air bag sensor and module is located for a 98 Chevy Lumina LS? I've heard that the sensor is located near the radiator and the module might be under one of the front seats. Any help?
  • daniels1daniels1 Member Posts: 2
    Does that particular hose have press fit fitting onto a pipe coming out of the firewall?If so you can take the hose off by cutting it off and check the pipe---if it's the hose and not the pipe you can then replace it with heater hose and a hose clamp.---I have a 91 and have'nt looked under the hood of a 95 in a while---but see if it is on a pipe before you tear the rest apart.
  • philbronephilbrone Member Posts: 1
    I have been having some problems with my 99 Lumina and am wondering if anyone knows what I can do. On my dashboard my low coolant light is flashing--I took it in and they said it was electrical and not a problem just monitor my level of coolant and everything would be ok...no problem with that. Next (1 month later) my ABS light has gone on and is constantly on. Now (2 weeks later) I have a light constantly on that looks like this (!) and is red. I bought the car and never received the manual so I have no clue whats going on. Has anyone ever had this issue or know whats going on?
    Please help. Thanks
    :lemon:
  • copenhagencopenhagen Member Posts: 9
    Just going up A LITTLE in oil weight can take your car as far as you would like it to. I have a 1996 (only difference is transmission and some very minor non mechanical differences) and I have 231,000 miles on it. No work done except for tune ups and minor things like the water pump (198,000 miles) and a Thermostat and (210,00 miles). No worries my friend. The lumina is , in a good way, a generic made car. Meaning, GM makes about 5 other models that are the same except for body style and some options. So, this means that there is a lot of research and a lot of bugs worked out after the first year (if not before). If you can't fight the feeling and want to buy a new(er) car get another Mid Size GM like the Buick Century. I have a lot of faith in the GM midsize cars because I have had 3 of them all of them finally went out on me after the 275,000 mile mark. One was an 86 Celebrity and the other was a 91 Century. I cried both times. Back to oil I use a 10w 40 in anything over 100,000 miles. Something I learned from my Father and Grandfather who both worked in GM Design and testing.
  • copenhagencopenhagen Member Posts: 9
    First, get a Chilton manual and then a OBDII code reader. If you are not experiencing anything wrong while driving other than lights you MIGHT be okay. Take it to a few different shops. I know, this is getting costly (Cheaper than buying a new car). My most educated guess tells me that it is a rolling failure in the computer (again, as long as the car is driving okay). The good and bad about OBDII cars is that they can sometimes find work arounds (failsafe mode) to get you where you need to go. So, that maybe why IF you are not experiencing poor drivability. I have never had this issue. But, my friends have a Sebring (totally different car) and it was doing the same thing and they did have all those things wrong and almost got in a wreck on the upper deck of I35 in Dallas because they didn't get it fixed. So, do the things I mentioned and be VERY careful when going to the shops. Or, if you can afford it or have a friend with a truck tow it. So, tell us if you are having drivability problems before the lights came on. Good luck.
  • copenhagencopenhagen Member Posts: 9
    I would think it is the Baffle/vent duct. I have never looked at one of these so it MIGHT I can't stress MIGHT enough have different fans for top or bottom. My mother in laws sunfire had two sets of fans. I was told that very few cars were made that way. But, I really do think it is the director.
  • copenhagencopenhagen Member Posts: 9
    Like I always suggest to people. Get a Chilton manual for that car. Even if you aren't car savvy or mechanically inclined you can always refer to the manual to find out if it even effects that part of the vehicle. Also, talk to your friends on who they suggest for a mechanic. In my experience the ones that try to jerk you around the most are the dealership mechanics. Not to offend anyone here. But, in my area of Oklahoma that seems to be the case. I would also tell the mechanic not to do any extra work unless you are consulted first. Before my wife met me she would always take another person with her to the shop so when she says something or asks for something in particular it can be constituted as a verbal contract. Good luck.
  • copenhagencopenhagen Member Posts: 9
    Just from your brief description it sounds like someone "broke" your shift lever. In my car you have to have the break pressed in order to start the vehicle unless you have it in neutral. There could be other things like a little contact not making contact or something of that nature. Next time you try starting your car in Park move the gear selector NOT OUT OF GEAR but just wiggle it. Keep the key in the start position while doing that. This will at least eliminate one of the possibilities. Does the owners manual mention anything about that?
  • copenhagencopenhagen Member Posts: 9
    Use the Yellow book value. Loan values are usually the best to base things on.
  • curtsl10curtsl10 Member Posts: 2
    I am currently looking at a 1998 lumina in my local area. The body is in excellent condition, with dirty interior. With 136k miles on it the only problem I was able to find was that the low coolant light was on constantly. The coolant was full and the reserve tank had coolant in it. This would be my third lumina, and I had a 1991 eurosport with the same problem. A radiator cap solved that problem. Is this a common problem? Also Would 2650 be a decent price on a car of this year with this many miles? If it isn't a radiator cap what other coolant system issues would cause the light to be on all the time? Or is it even worth worrying about as long as I visually inspect the coolant levels?
  • hpmctorquehpmctorque Member Posts: 4,600
    What engines have your Luminas been equipped with, and how much difference do you think this makes on durability? Also, what finally caused you to decide to trade your Lumunas...did a drivetrain component finally fail? Please elaborate.

    Thanks.
  • curtsl10curtsl10 Member Posts: 2
    The first 3.1l eurosport finally had the tranny go out at 289k miles, A good run for the 1200 bucks I paid for it at 90k. My current 91 lumina got rear ended and had body damage but nothing too hectic. We are keeping this car and are looking for another family car instead of the s-10 I have as we have outgrown being a 1 car 1 truck family. As far as the lumina durabillity goes, My girlfriend doesn't tell me a lights on until there is a noise. Lights can blink and flash and she doesn't notice them all the time unless they flash.
  • copenhagencopenhagen Member Posts: 9
    The engine type and size makes a huge difference. Just to make a point and for sake of making it easy for everyone. One does not want to put a monster V-12 in a Volkswagen bug and use the same tranny. Now, if you put the V-12 in a Huge Mac Truck with a matching tranny then you will be alright. See what I am getting at. As far as the Lumina goes and GM cars in general, they do a good job of matching the engine and tranny. So, as long as it has a V-6 that is at least a 2.8L then you will be okay. BTW, I have found that if when you go to do the tune up when the engine light comes OBDII reader tells you that is what it needs, if you do not FULLY clear the codes then it will cause it to have those same symptoms even when it doesn't need it. I know this because I am having some problems that I KNOW are fixed and are okay. So, for all those people that are posting that problem take it to the mechanic that did the work and tell them to clear the codes and then go home and disconnect the NEGATIVE ONLY battery cable for about an out. You should be good to go.
  • copenhagencopenhagen Member Posts: 9
    I am interested in converting my car to CNG. It is cheap and from what I have found I won't loose too much (if any) power and my car might last longer and have lower emmissions. So, any suggestions? Can I do this by myself. I am a fairly accomplished shade tree mechanic. Or, would it still be better to have a mechanic do it. Also, I think it would be beneficial to be dual fuel. I would loose some trunk space, but, I would be able to fill up anywhere and quite possibly save a lot of money by end of year. I have seen trucks converted to LPG and there is a dealership that sells ONLY CNG dual fuel vehicles and of course here in the state of Oklahoma there are a lot of CNG vehicles owned and operated by the state. So, does anyone have suggestions or warnings? Look forward to this conversation.
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