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Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems

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Comments

  • oilman78oilman78 Member Posts: 3
    Preparing for a trip, I had a mechanic check my '95 Villager and he said the brakes were fine. Not having to pay for brake work, I had him flush the brake lines and probably created a problem. My left front wheel was smoking after a few miles. The brakes were locked and the wheel would not turn in neutral. The lines were bled repeatedly and the vehicle tested. The left front and right rear would still be locked. The problem was solved by removing the "valve" on top of the master cylinder and cleaning it.
    To bleed: The ignition switch must be off and the electrical connectors for the ABS actuator disconnected (or battery ground disconnected). The order of bleeding is left front, right front, left rear and right rear.
    Your mechanic may need to clean that valve (flushing my system probably clogged it) and make certain the 'out of the ordinary' bleeding order is followed.
    I bet some of the poor mileage posts for these vehicles are due to locked brakes.
  • questerquester Member Posts: 3
    This sounds to me like a break in the flex line for the brakes. If the line is broken inside, it could act as a 1 way check valve, holding the brakes on for a while after use, and whats worse it may not do it every time. This could act as a frozen caliper as well, and is something that nobody ever thinks of because the flexlines will appear to be fine from the outside. I'd look at having those lines replaced.
  • questerquester Member Posts: 3
    Hi, have a 1997 Mercury Villager with the 3.0, changed the timing belt yesterday and today the engine is running very rough. Is it possible that I am one tooth off on one of the cams? It was impossible to see the left side cam mark, so I'm not sure if I got it lined up just right. Also when I did the rotate the engine 2 complete turns bit, the marks were no longer lining up on the belt. It seemed to crank up fine yesterday but today ran very rough. Any assistance would be appreciated.
  • mulnhdmulnhd Member Posts: 1
    We just traded in a 2001 with the VCR and it only plays tapes. You can, though, use the RCA inputs on the VCR to connect a portable DVD player or game system to it.

    As for the the gear shifter -- it should not rattle also I don't think that there is lumbar adjustemt on the seat.
  • oldarmyoldarmy Member Posts: 27
    Yes the TV works but only does so clearly if you are sitting still. When the vehicle is moving the picture on the TV is pretty unstable. I have a 99 and the TV/VCR still works..pretty good for an Audiovox product.
  • m6chem6che Member Posts: 18
    Back in 2004, I paid for Duane Harrison's expertise. He has a web site, instructions and parts to repair Ford and Nissan Quest radio displays. I had the same problem with the dead radio display in my 1999 Quest. I have no relationship with him except my radio display was fixed and is very bright two years later. I considered his service extremely valuable and paid for a replacement power supply rather than doing the work myself. I recall a rebuilt power supply was around $99. The cost of the instructions to do the soldering repair yourself is much less, but you have to be pretty good working on tiny soldering points. The web site is: www.shareamemory.com/radio
    :)
  • jamesdewartjamesdewart Member Posts: 2
    Ive owned a 97 mercury villager for about a year now. When i brought it the dealer said the previous owner had said he thought there was a brake problem but when it was checked out nothing could be found. The car always seemed to grind a little when taking off from a standstill but i really didnt think much of it. This past week i noticed it shuddering more at high speed. Then my front passenger brake caught fire. I have no abs warning light showing. I replaced the calliper still it overheats. And i noticed that the right side has been overheating too. Where should i start????Thanks James
  • dhoffdhoff Member Posts: 282
    James-

    I'm no expert, but here are a couple of possibilities. If you replaced the caliper, it could be a collapsed flexible brake line. These can restrict the flow of brake fluid back to the master cylinder and cause the same symptoms as a stuck caliper.

    The Villager/Quest also has some sort of valve on the master cylinder that can clog up and cause the same symptoms. I'm sorry I don't recall exactly what it's called. I belong to an email list that discusses these vans and I recall this same problem happening to a couple of other members. One (handy) person was able to get it functioning properly by removing and cleaning it.

    You might want to find a place that is familiar with these vans to get it worked on. In any case, this does not sound like it necessarily has anything to do with the ABS if it is otherwise functioning, and is not tripping the ABS light.

    Hope this helps.

    Dave
  • radconjohnradconjohn Member Posts: 2
    Hi, I have the same problem with tires as everyone else, crappy OEM Goodyear's ! I was wondering if anyone has actually put different size tires, particularly the 235/60/16, on their van and have driven a fair amount of mileage. Wanting to know what results you have gotten from driving, handling, too big for the wheelwell??, etc...and what brand tire you put on the 04 quest. I am needing some new tires here soon and looking for some info.
    Thanks for the help!
  • izaclown1izaclown1 Member Posts: 118
    I stayed with the same size on my 2k Villager and went to the Firstone FR30's (80K rating, I think). Thay have performed lightyears better than the Goodyears that cams on it. Within less tahn 35k miles, I have gone through 2 complete sets of tires due to the belts separating. I have out 25-30K on this set of Firestones and they ride and handle like new. That is just my opinion, but I happen to be satisfied with they. I use Brigestones on my 2k TC with the same results.
  • ggroot30ggroot30 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 Nissan Quest and cannot seem to be able to get the rear vents to blow hot air. When I turn up the temperature of the air up front, it has no bearing on the temperature of the air coming from the rear vents. Is this normal?

    Also, how do you change channels on the console t.v.?
  • jamesdewartjamesdewart Member Posts: 2
    Thanks Dave since my last post i have replaced both right and left lines and both callipers. After road testing the right wheel now turns freely whereas the left now is locked and smoking :( Im thinking about looking at the valve at the master cylinder although i dont understand why only one side would stick as both the right and left front brakes run from the same line until it reaches the actuator.
  • dhoffdhoff Member Posts: 282
    ggroot-

    The upper rear vents on the 99-02 Quest/Villager will not supply heated air, they are only for a/c or ventilation. The rear heat air is supplied through vents located under the front seats.

    Dave
  • eveenickeveenick Member Posts: 2
    Hi All,

    I am new to the site and have learned so much by reading the previous posts. I have a 96 Mercury Villager and it recently started having problems gathering speed and kind of lurching if I would try to accelerate to quickly. Now, it won't even start. We are thinking that it may be the fuel filter. Where is the fuel filter located on the 96 Villager? (Keep your fingers crossed that it's not the fuel pump-I really don't want to deal with taking the gas tank out). Thanks for any help you can give me. :sick:
  • tripper918tripper918 Member Posts: 2
    I just replaced my '93 Villager with a '95 Quest GXE. I found that I have no interior lights. No dash, dome, step or cargo lights. Every other light and electrical feature works fine. I feel silly saying it but I can't find the fuse for the interior lights. I checked under the dash and hood... Nothing. The owners manual and Haynes manual say nothing about the fuse for the interior lighting. Can anyone help?? Thanks so much!!
  • tripper918tripper918 Member Posts: 2
    The filter is under the hood, clamped onto the back firewall not too far from the air filter. It's about the size of a coffee cup. Take it out of it's clips and you can get to the fuel lines. Nice and easy. I just repalced my '93 Villager with 253,000 miles on it. Good luck.
  • eveenickeveenick Member Posts: 2
    Thanks so much! I hope that's what the problem is. I thought it was underneath the van. Sounds easier than I was predicting. I had a Plymouth Voyager that was a pain to replace the fuel filter in. Boy, I hope mine makes it as long as yours. Thanks again!
  • villagersuxvillagersux Member Posts: 2
    Well this is my story that may help another, 99 villager sport with a laundry list of problems... started fixing them Fuel filter, air filter, stabalizer links, ball joint, cv boot axle, ect.... I won't boar you villager owners with all of the items, as I'm sure you must know already!... Anyhow over the last few months I noticed my fuel mileage going down quickly, and it was running poor, idle surging, and stalling at lights... I did alot of research on the internet cause Im Not cheap, I just hate spending money (espically on "Rip Offs" I mean mechanics) with alot of possibilities including, Distributor, idle control motor (IAC), Vacume leak, (TPS) throttle position sensor, O2 sensor, IAT sensor, Temp Sensor, Holy crap I said! the vans value is next to worthless! and every part is so expensive! So I did wiggle check on every wire connector... Anyhow, I Then I pulled the Entire air breather system out for a better look and I noticed the air cleaner box seal was broken. when I had changed the air filter 5 months ago I unclipped and slid the filter down into the box and it missed on the back edge upon closing the case. I quickly opened the unit to inspect and i found the Screen in front of the MAF sensor was aprox 1/3 plugged with dirt and leaves. I carefully cleaned it away from MAF sensor. and Put the thing back together. wow idles fine now fuel milage has increased from 12 to 17 mpg in the city I suspect my o2 sensors are now on the way out so I will be changing them soon. Hope to have fuel milage 22+ This was brought on by my own lazyness and not ensuring the filter was seated properly. Hope this helps someone else in the same situation.... :) Goodluck!
  • jnettjnett Member Posts: 2
    I have the same codes on my 2000 villager ppfriar. I've found other folks with the same codes listed, but NO certain resolution ever given. The closest I've come is finding the same combo of codes listed from a 2000 Maxima (this is the 3.0l engine that used to be standard in the quest/villager before 99) and the resolution he found was the ignition coils. I set off looking to replace the ignition coils in my villager only to find that they are "integrated" in the 99-2002. I believe they are "integrated" into the distributor.

    I've changed both the upstream and downstream o2 sensors, haven't messed with the knock sensor because the Tech manual says that the KS will not trip the computer itself and I'm ready to change the plugs, wires and distributor cap and rotor but fear I'll have to change the distributor as well (it's pricey!).

    Please, if you found a sure resolution for this let me know :-[

    Thanks,
    John
  • mjeongmjeong Member Posts: 4
    Came across this web site for courtesy nissan for a timing belt kit I think is a good price $236.86:
    http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CP&Pr- oduct_Code=V41-TBKITA

    Timing Belt Kit for the Quest includes:
    Timing belt(1)
    Timing belt tensioner(1)
    Tensioner spring(1)
    Tensioner stud(1)
    Front crankshaft oil seal(1)
    Camshaft oil seals(2)
    A/C Compressor drive belt(1)
    Fan and alternator drive belt(1)
    Powersteering drive belt(1)
    Water pump assembly(1)
    Thermostat(1)
  • mashinmashin Member Posts: 4
    Hello everyone! I am new on this forum and needs your help. I have '95 quest (original owner) with 90k miles. Recently power steering fluid had a leak and mechanic replaced hose to fix this leak. After this I noticed a weird problem i.e. when car is idling in park and you turn steering wheel right or left: RPM jumps up about to 1250 (normally it idles at 7500rpm) OR whenever you stopped at traffic light and i move steering wheel back & forth and rpm jumps up again to 1250rpm. I never had this kind of problem before, Could you please advise me and help me out what mechanic did wrong (he said that he just replaced leaky hose)? I thank you All and look forward to hearing expert help.
  • jnettjnett Member Posts: 2
    Hello Folks,
    I've searched several forums to see if anyone has a real "fix" for this combination of codes. The closest I've come is a Maxima owner (3.0l engine they had in the 98 and earlier quest/villager) who said that changing the ignition coils did the trick for him. Anyone with a 99 or later 3.3l engine with these codes and what you found to correct them.

    I've changed the downstream o2 sensor and the upstream sensor to no avail. I've read someone talking about their mechanic suggesting rotor, distributor cap and plugs and wires while you're at it, but again no word as to any resolution.

    I'm ready to change each of these items along with the distributor as I got a very cheap deal on one recently. It runs OK, but I guess I'm a bit obsessive with the blasted cel!

    The way I understand it, the knock sensor is likely coming on as a result of a fault in the O2 heater causing the engine to idle more roughly and then the knock sensor is kicking in? Don't know if I understand that correctly or not, I've just read the the ks will not trip the computer itself.

    Please help!

    John
  • oldasholdash Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 villager and have checked all the fuses (GOOD). We can not run the seats, windows, locks, and power mirror. The power mirrors work in one direction????
    HELP amy ideas.
  • lochmanlochman Member Posts: 1
    Our Villager (96) idles lower and lower until it stalls out at lights. Do you think it could be the same problem?
  • villagersuxvillagersux Member Posts: 2
    It is possible if you had the air filter changed at a quickie lube or similar those morons screw up alot! its an easy fix... How many mile are on your villager? More likely it is the Oxygen sensor(s) as the mfg bosch says replace sensors every 25,000 miles (yeah right) the truth is more like 50,000-75,000 mile for changing. it could also be a plugged cataletic converter but only if your van has no accelleration and has trouble going over 30-40 mph. I have read about a distributor replacement helping issuses as well you can get a brand new one on ebay for about $200.00. good luck let me know what you find out. really like my van alot but it keeps costing me so much money i feel that mine is quickly becoming aI :lemon:
  • oldarmyoldarmy Member Posts: 27
    I have a 99 Quest and would like to install a hidden hitch with electric hook up. Anyone have a suggestion for a brand and/or installer. Seems U-haul used to do this.
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes Member Posts: 1,019
    I used a Hidden Hitch (brand name) and installed it myself. It bolted right up to the existing holes. Two were threaded and two used nuts and bolts. The wiring kit I had done and it needed some kind of converter because of the amber turn signal lights. I have a 2001 Villager base.
    2012 Mustang Premium, 2013 Lincoln MKX Elite, 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander.
  • paulvillagerpaulvillager Member Posts: 2
    Mercury Villager (1996), mileage 120,000.
    I have a problem turning at low speed. When I try to park, I can't. The noise is a loud squeal and I almost have to stand on the wheel to turn it. While I drive on the highway the steering is fine.

    Does this sound like the powersteering pump or rack and pinion?
    The timing belt has not been changed yet and I need a new exhaust. Some of these things I can do myself, but I wonder if I should sell it and trade for something else.
    P.S. other than gerneral maintenance, the van has treated me well for 100,000 miles.
    Any Ideas will be appreciated.
    Paul
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes Member Posts: 1,019
    Sounds like power steering pump. The squealing might just be a slipping belt. The pump works a lot harder to turn the car at low speeds which is why it is worse then. As far as keeping it or trading it, thats your call. These seem to have pretty good powertrains, you just have to hope it doesn't nickel and dime you.
    2012 Mustang Premium, 2013 Lincoln MKX Elite, 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander.
  • paulvillagerpaulvillager Member Posts: 2
    1996 merc. villager. 120,000 miles.
    After taking a closer look at the belts and pulleys I have more "bad news". The belts are cracking and the water pump is leaking past the pulley. Timing belt needs to be changed as well. The trans. fluid could be causing the p/s belt to slip and cause the noise or I could be looking at changing the p/s pump and tensioner assy.
    This is a job beyond my ability and skill. How much will this repair run?
    Thanks Paul
  • gsusinmegsusinme Member Posts: 12
    1993 Nissan Quest 191000 miles
    Paul, I've been encountering a similar problem. I just purchased this vehicle recently and have noticed lately there is a squeeling noise at low speeds (i.e. while parking or stopped). If it is the power steering pump, I've priced one at Advance Auto for $158.88 with free shipping. Does anyone else know of a vendor that would be cheaper than that for a reman. pump? Also, how difficult would it be to replace that part? I'm still waiting on the Haynes repair manual that I ordered for the Quest, so I'm not sure what the job would entail.
    Thanks,
    Adam
  • barmacbarmac Member Posts: 1
    1997 Mercury Villager - Passenger window won't come down - automatic button on driver's side and passenger's side not working - is this just a fuse to be replaced??
  • lo_klo_k Member Posts: 2
    I recently replaced mine and I think I paid 124.99 plus $35 core over at Pep Boys...
  • mn_patmn_pat Member Posts: 67
    we are going a 2000 mile round trip. Of course, I want to get the "rig" in top shape before we leave.

    1. does the vechile require and special type of Xmission fluid or coolant?

    2. what type of gas mileage do you see in similar model years. I get 18-21 mpg.

    Thanks, Pat
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    My guess is that it's the switch or the motor. You may want to try squirting some electrical contact cleaner down in the switch and see if that helps.

    Mn_pat, my '99 Quest gets around 24 to 27 on the road; all time high was 29.9. We usually run with bulky camping gear but not too much weight (two people) but often have a canoe on top that shaves a mile or so mpg off.

    Steve, Host
  • gbealgbeal Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 Villager with the 3.3 engine
    Runs O.K. for about 20 Mins Then it misses bad
    Had Codes read reset codes and it did it again
    Codes are Crankshaft Position Sensor and Knock Sensor
    Have the Crankshaft Position Sensor on Order but I am wondering about the Knock Sensor and if there is
    another problem causing this.
    Thanks
  • pencilpro1pencilpro1 Member Posts: 1
    :confuse: I have a 1994 Mercury Villager and the caliper mounting bolt holes on the steering knuckle are rusted, corroded and are a tad oversize. I have purchased an oversized bolt to remedy the problem, but instructions say it is for one time use. Anyone know of a more permanent fix?? Hopefully it will be something relatively easy to do and not very expensive.
    Thanks
  • lifesavinlifesavin Member Posts: 2
    Hello! My van is currently in the shop having the "line cylanoid" replaced. Could this be the cause for my van stalling and dying when I slow to a crawl or come to a complete stop? The RPMs drop real low and it just dies. It doesn' t make any noises, etc. The mechanic did a diagnostics on the van and the only indicator on the entire thing was the "line cylanoid". Please help! :(
  • gsusinmegsusinme Member Posts: 12
    You know what? I believe I figured out the problem. I may have been jumping to conclusions to think the pump was going out. I tightened the PS belt a little and the squeeling stopped. I bought a new belt and replaced it, but I found something that may be a common problem with the PS squeeling symptom. When I looked at the tentioner pully for the PS and tried to turn it after I tightened the retaining nut, it wouldn't turn. So I took it off for a closer look. I took apart the pulley and noticed there is a two piece bearing in the middle of the pulley. BUT, one of the pieces was MISSING, so whenever I tightened the nut, it pinched the pulley and kept it from moving on the bearing. I figure it fell out and wasn't replaced during some routine maintenance.
    I priced a pulley from Advance Auto they would have to special order for about $100. BUT that's $100 more than I wanted to spend so I cut a 7/16" socket in half, filed out the inside a bit and used that for the missing bearing.
    Anyway, that's worth checking out if your powersteering is squeeling and it won't improve from tightening the belt. It may be your bearing. :)
  • lo_klo_k Member Posts: 2
    while I'm not about to question the integrity of your solution to the bearing problem (although that's damn resourceful and something I wouldn't have thought of) I recently replaced my tensioner pulley as well upon finding out that the inner bearing was blown causing my belt to pop and my car to overheat... I ordered a new one from Mantilia Ford in West Haven, CT for $42 since everyone seemed to only have the idler pulleys in stock and it came the next day and have had much improved results.... :)
  • oldarmyoldarmy Member Posts: 27
    I am looking for an extra set or rims for my 99 Quest to mount snow tires. Anyone know of a good source? Familiar with the required specs? Thanks.
  • stigmatastigmata Member Posts: 10
    I had the same problem with my '95 villager. It ended up being the screen for inside the air intake was just nasty with dust and derbris. Give that a look at before you do anything else.
  • tovawongtovawong Member Posts: 2
    Hi,

    I am wondering if you you can tell me where the rear relay is? I can't find it.

    I've isolated the problem to the rear relay. The front works good. The rear is dead.

    thanks

    Tony
  • stigmatastigmata Member Posts: 10
    The relay is on the heater control board. I believe on the board it is actually labeled as rl2. All I did to get it working is re-solider the relay and I cut open the relay and jammed a washer in the relay.
  • waywat2001waywat2001 Member Posts: 1
    After many attempts to fix my passenger side headlight, on my 96 Villager, that worked occasionally, new bulb, socket, relays, etc., I stumbled on Carl V's instructions at the Yahoo Auto's, Villagerquest site. I resoldered the DRL (Daylight Running Light Module) and now it works!

    waywat2001
  • gsusinmegsusinme Member Posts: 12
    I found out a week after that "fix" that my solution was not entirely correct. While I was missing part of the bushing, the ball bearings inside the pulley had siezed because of lack of lube. So I opened it up, lubed it, got it moving again, put it back together and it seems to be doing okay (time lapse since repair: 5+ days). I priced a pulley at nearly $100... but that may be because I live in the DC metro area and everyting is more expensive here. ;)
  • gsusinmegsusinme Member Posts: 12
    Tony,
    This is actually not too complicated a fix. You should just have a soldering iron, some solder, a 1" wire, and maybe some flux.
    If your van is like my '93 Nissan Quest, your rear relay will be accessable behind the radio console. There's one screw that holds the console in place. Once you find that and take it out, you should be able to pry that radio console off with a screwdriver or something.
    Directly on the rear side of the controls for the front and rear air, etc, you will see a circuit board. (I'm trying to do this from memory, so if this isn't exactly correct and you can't follow, let me know and I'll give more elaborate directions as a follow-up).
    I believe there were a few screws holding on the circuit board. For repairs, you'll need to remove the circuit board from all the stuff that is wired to it, etc. Once you've isolated the board, look for a little box. I think it was black, but it's going to have 4 legs soldered into the board. This is the relay.
    Again, if yours is like mine was, you'll see if you look closely that one of the legs soldered to the board has a tiny crack along the base. This has happened because of too much current going through it (so I've read). Now you can do one of two things to fix it:
    -first you can resolder the leg to the board with more solder OR
    -second you can resolder the leg AND solder the little 1" wire from the resoldered leg to the other solder that leg goes to.
    I used the first method and my rear air is working fine now. However, I recommend the second method (hindsight is 20/20) because adding the 1" wire will make the path for that current BIGGER which will in theory prevent the same fault from occuring again from too much current through that leg.
    After the repair, put the board back in and TEST IT before you put it all back together... just in case. I can't tell you how many times I've put something back together without testing it first and taking it apart all over again because it didn't work.

    I hope this helps,
    Adam
  • gsusinmegsusinme Member Posts: 12
    Relays can be daunting devices, but they are in place for a reason or for more than one reason.
    While inserting a mechanical fix to keep the relay always in one position is an option, it should not be the primary.
    The amount of time that it would take to resolder the leg, cut open the relay and insert a washer would be the same as or would exceed the amount of time it would take to resolder the leg and add the additional 1" wire path. (see above)
    -Adam
  • gsusinmegsusinme Member Posts: 12
    Hey all,
    My Quest is very sluggish when starting from a stopped position. It almost acts like it's going to stall sometimes. When the engine it cold, it seems to be a bit worse, but it still does it when the engine is warmed up.

    I bought a fuel filter to replace that (just hoping)... and I'm going to check the resistance reading on the fuel injectors later on too probably...

    Anyone know what the problem could be?
    Thanks,
    Adam :confuse:
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Throttle body? Symptoms don't quite match the usual complaint but something to check.

    dhoff, "Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems" #1785, 25 Mar 2005 8:29 pm

    Steve, SUVs & Speed Shop Host
This discussion has been closed.