Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems

gadawgfan · August 2006

See if your distributor is bad. Not a mechanic, but sounds like what my villager did.

vllincoln · August 2006

I'm not sure if anyone can help me or not. We have a 1999 Villager with only 63,000 miles on it (mostly in town driving). The front and rear brakes have been replaced within the last 6 months. However, now my brake light continues to stay on (will randomly go off and on). Any suggestions or ideas as to what it's problem is? Thanks.

vllincoln · August 2006

I'm not sure if anyone can help me or not. We have a 1999 Villager with only 63,000 miles on it (mostly in town driving). The front and rear brakes have been replaced within the last 6 months. However, now my brake light continues to stay on (will randomly go off and on). Any suggestions or ideas as to what it's problem is? Thanks.

stever · August 2006

Sounds like your brake fluid may be a bit low. Maybe you can get the brake mechanic to top it off and check the lines for you for cheap if you aren't comfortable checking the fluid level yourself.

Steve, Host
SUVs & Speed Shop

vllincoln · August 2006

I've checked the fluid. It's right where it's supposed to be. That's what's so confusing. Makes me a little concerned. That, and the fact that the brakes are "spongy" (as my husband calls it). I know how much to press on them to make them stop, but they aren't like any other car I've driven. They're very particular. Any other suggestions?

stever · August 2006

Usually spongy feeling brakes indicates air in the brake lines so bleeding the brake lines would be next on my list of things to try.

For other suggestions (poor quality brake fluid, weak hoses?), skim the posts in the Stop here! Let's talk about brakes discussion.

Steve, Host
SUVs & Speed Shop

ace654 · August 2006

I was on a trip to oragen when my 1994 nissan Quest started to say check engine and its transmition was down :sick: at first it amazed me because my 1989 chevy pickup dident say check engine i am afraid that my nissan is not able to go anywhere agien :confuse: it is very sad because my 1989 chevy has not even said check engine i hope the new nissan are not the same :confuse:

mamarcie · August 2006

my mini van has been getting stuck in park. i had the brake switch under the dash replaced last april and last week it started all over again. a friend was under the dash and found not one but two switches, both very similar. one i got at the local parts store but the other could only be gotten from the ford/nissan dealer. they weren't even sure what the part was without seeing it. anyone got ideas? it is working again, we replaced the one. i can get it out of park again and the brake lights are working again. i am just curious what the other part is. and do i need it?any help would be great. thanks.... single mom in PA

mamarcie · August 2006

Mine was the passenger side window in my '96 van. It would go odwn but not back up! I am going to have my brother (who fixes my van) try that. He said it didn't seem likeit was the motor. Without air, it would be nice for the window to work. (even tho it is going to be cold soon) THANKS for the tip. Mamarcie

Claires · September 2006

Folks, I've noticed a number of posts about starting and stalling issues, so I've created a separate discussion for these problems. You may notice that some of the more recent posts about this have been moved here:

Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager Starting & Stalling Issues

flooyd · September 2006

My throttle was sticking closed after sitting at idle, like while I was waiting for a light to change. I examined the operation of the throttle valve, which seems to be a butterfly valve plate that rotates inside of a circular tube, similar to the classic carb. Evidently, the problem was that the plate was closing too far and binding against the inner wall. This could be demonstrated without the engine runnning by pushing on the throttle to close it tightly, which would cause it to stick. Pushing it closed lightly caused it to stick slightly, so there was a correlation indicating this as the problem. The solution is simple. Just adjust the limit screw that keeps the plate from fully returning and getting stuck. You will find the screw right on top of the throttle assembly, with a small nut to lock it in place.
All of the discussion about cleaning the throttle body seems pointless and over-complicated, if my solution works.

koen1 · September 2006

Steve, I'm trying to replace my 2000 Quest driver power window switch. I clicked on your picture file name in the post #1825, but there is no picture posted. Your pictures will be very helpful.

stever · September 2006

I put one pic up in one of my CarSpace albums. Here's the direct link. If you need something different let me know and I'll borrow the camera again.

Mine is starting to act up again. :sick: I'm going to try the electrical contact cleaner spray soon and try to avoid cutting into it again.

Steve, Host
SUVs & Speed Shop

koen1 · September 2006

I got only one picture, but it seems like you posted more detailed pictures in the post # 1825 (?). I think that'll be more helpful than the one you posted. Those pictures in the post # 1825 can't be downloaded any more.

stever · September 2006

I just checked my photos on my computer and that's the same one that's in the album; the rest of mine are similar - just show the cutting into the plastic to expose the switch. Here's one of the side of the switch:

See more Car Pictures at CarSpace.com

Getting the switch out of the door is easy; one screw hidden under a little plastic cap in the handle as I recall removes the whole handle section(don't have the van handy today). Then you can unscrew the switch from the handle section and unhook the wiring harnesses.

Someone posted about flooding the switch with the contact cleaner so I would try that before taking a hacksaw to the switch. I don't see that post but here's one where an owner was able to get to the innards without destroying the top like I did:

sparky_b, "Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems" #1909, 29 Jun 2005 8:37 pm

Steve, Host
SUVS & Speed Shop

koen1 · September 2006

Your new picture was very helpful. At least now I can see how I can replace the whole switch unit for around $80, if I happen to break the top, although I'll try my engine throttle cleaner to clean the contact first, since the engine throttle cleaner is supposed to clean any carbon on a surface.

Here are a couple of legendary issue with Nissan Quest.

After I was ripped off for the blower motor resistor when A/C works only at high speed, I decided to repair as much as I can. I paid about $150 to replace the blower motor resistor, but after I realized it's an easy repair, I replaced it for myself at the second time when the resistor didn't work. The resistor costed me about $40.

The other issue I had was a lower ball joint. I live right next to the Nissan Tech Center in Farmington Hills of Michigan. The lower ball joints are notorious for its fast wear. Other than low fuel economy, I like my Quest.

Thank you for your quick help. I really appreciate it.

koen1 · September 2006

Steve, last night I tried to clean the contact inside the switch, but found out it's very hard to access to the innards. I better spend $70 to buy the switch unit.

stever · September 2006

Rats. I just purchased some contact cleaner about an hour ago. Guess I'll give it a shot anyway - maybe drill a hole in it.

Steve, Host
SUVs and Speed Shop

gadawgfan · September 2006

My van gets jerky when the air is on and only seems to do it at a stop light or sign. Any answers to why that would be? :confuse:

joetied · September 2006

Does anyone know the order of bleeding for the 1997 Villager? Is it the same as the 95?

rudophbuchel · September 2006

I had the same problem, more prevelent in colder temps. I replaced the U-turn hoses (1/4" or 5/16" I think) at the ends of the injector manifolds and cured the problem.

billandy202 · September 2006

i have a 98 village and i am trying to change the right side axle but i have come across a problem, it is hard to get it -the axle- to come out of the bracker in the middle between the transmation and the wheel hub, it is like it's fused together and i need some help in getting lose, any advace out there

jgerraughty · September 2006

I have a '99 Quest and the passenger side sliding door is not opening and closing properly. Does anyone know how to get to the top rear hinge? There is a plastic body panel above the channel the hinge rides in, but it is not obvious how you remove it. It seems if that panel comes off I will be able to get to the inside hinge bolts which I think have come loose. Anyone been down this road before?

stever · September 2006

My '99 just has one top hinge and none of the bolts appear to be hidden by any panels. Maybe mine is a bit different from yours. I took a couple of photos since I'm not clear exactly what part you are referring to:

upper hinge 1

upper hinge 2

I haven't messed with the sliding door panels. My service manual is pretty vague. To remove the lower panel you first take off the escutcheon thingy around the door handle. It has 5 clips you pry off. Then you pry off the rest of the panel - there are 10 of those around the edges holding the panel on.

The narrow upper part of the sliding door panel is held on with three metal clips above the door handle towards the front of the door.

All it says about removal for all these clips is to wrap the tip of a flat-bladed screwdriver with a cloth. I guess you just start prying.

Steve, Host
SUVS & Speed Shop

jgerraughty · September 2006

thanks, I probably am not being too clear here. The panel I am referring to is actually on the outside of the van. It is just above the channel that the door hinge slides along as you open it. (just below the side rear window) I believe if I can get that panel off I can check the tightness of the hinge. The problem I have is that when you open the door, you need to pull out on the left side of it for it to open. I can take a picture of what I am talking about tomorrow as it will probably make more sense.

stever · September 2006

Ok, try these two pics and see if they help:

Waist roller assembly

Waist rail

Steve, Host
SUVS & Speed Shop

jgerraughty · September 2006

Thanks, this looks like what I am trying to get at. I am guessing the screws that hold this thing on can be accessed from the interior of the van, probably by removing the trim panels next to the third row seat. Sound about right?

stever · September 2006

It's hard to tell but it looks like there are 3 bolts under the trim that hold the channel cover on. I took a couple more photos, but I don't have anything in the manual about what's behind the rear trim panel. Maybe you can save the photos and blow them up and make them a bit more legible.

Side Trim

Slider adjustments

Billandy202, hope you figured out your axle out ok. I just have a '99 manual and don't remember too much of a struggle when I did my RF axle a while back.

Steve, Host
SUVs and Speed Shop

jgerraughty · September 2006

thanks- I think I should start by pulling off the door panel and seeing if I can make the necessary adjustments that way. The diagram you sent is helpful. What book did that come out of? I tried to find the shop manual for this van at our local library yesterday but they did not have it.

stever · September 2006

I got a factory service manual when I got my van. It was a bit spendy (~$120), especially since I'm not much of a mechanic. Factory manuals for newer cars seem to be running around $300, so next time I'll just wait and buy a Haines manual if I get ambitious about trying to fix something.

I understand Hyundai has (or had; my link is dead) factory manuals on line for free, which is how they all should be.

Steve, Host
SUVs and Speed Shop

jgerraughty · September 2006

Ok, I figured out what my problem is. The middle (waist?) hinge has three metal wheels that roll inside the channel and guide the door. Mine is missing part of one of the "wheels" and that is allowing the door an extra 1/4 to 1/2 inch of free play which is causing it to bind up.
I will go ahead and get a new hinge and that should do it.">

toomanyfumes · September 2006

I went to pick up a Hayne's manual for my '01 Villager the other day. It seems like they have really cheaped out on them lately,though. It was real thin, and the pictures were blurry. Anyway, I read the part on how to replace my fuel pressure regulator. I just ordered the part from carjunky.com $90.00 compared to $210.00 from the dealer. Of course, it's not a genuine Mercury part, but the last one from the dealer only lasted a year. :sick:

sjs58 · September 2006

One of the faceplate bulbs burned out on the EATC climate control unit on my 99. To my dismay, my local dealer informed me that the unit must be replaced. For a burned out bulb? He couldn't even come up with a bulb number. The shop manual clearly states how to replace the bulbs. It looks to be no big deal and no harder than replacing the radio bulbs.

I'm sure the bulbs are out there somewhere, I just need a generic bulb part number so I can search them out. Any one got one?

Thanks,
Steve

stever · September 2006

Steve Cutchen's old FAQ site has some part numbers. They may be for the previous generation Quests though.

Steve, Host
SUVs & Speed Shop

outlander1 · September 2006

I have a 95 Quest with a check engine light that comes on. A local parts store checks codes for free but we can't find the connection point. Is it under the dash or in the engine compartment?

gallilaw · October 2006

Sometimes the "automatic" shoulder belt on my 1994 Villager will lock in the open position. Jiggling, bouncing, pressing buttons, tugging... nothing gets it to slide back where it should be when the car is moving.

Then, a few minutes or hours or days later it will start working normally again.

Please help me trouble-shoot and fix this problem.

Thanks.

shazu · October 2006

I have 2 problems...
First, when I press on the brake, the radio lights dim and the thermostat degrees display goes out completely. The dash lights are ok. When I release the brakes, the lights are bright like normal.

2nd problem:

My 99 Villager had a brake light out. We replaced the light bulb but it still only works if we hold the bulb in. Once we put the light back together it is out again. There is a recall on light sockets in the 99 Villager but my VIN # wasn't part of the recall. Anyone know where I can get a replacement socket so we can replace it?

Any help is appreciated.
Shannon

kw_da · October 2006

Hi,

Since noone else answered, I can take a stab. It appears your problems may be related. It looks like there is a short in your brake light, when you press the brake, power is sent to the brake light which then shorts to ground, which then lowers the voltage on the circuit so the other lights go out. However, in looking at the electrical circuits, it doesn't appear that the radio lights & thermostat lights are on the same circuit as the brake. I'd replace the broken brake light harness and see if the problem goes away.

Try this site for ordering parts forpartsonline.com . I've ordered here and they appear to be much cheaper than the dealer, even including shipping. You may want to check with your local dealer anyway.

Good Luck,

David

scottmsimpson · October 2006

We used to have a 95 Villager. I took it to AutoZone a few years ago when the Check Engine light was coming on intermittantly. Their code reader was for OBD2 vehicles, which started at the 96 model year. So, they could not read any codes from it. There was either no connector, or it was the wrong type, I don't remember.

sarinaz · October 2006

Hello to all;

Wife and I bought 2000 Villager, 57k miles. Great vehicle. All works well, except rear ac blows warm and fan switch above 2nd seat row doesn't function. Front panel switch wroks, air blows ice cold up front. I have reviwed several posts, nothing seems to match my exact problem. Thanks!

stever · October 2006

Just to clarify, the rear A/C vent is just up top. The bottom vents under the front row seats are just for heat. So if the 2nd row fan isn't working up top, my guess is that the A/C can't get pushed out the upper vent.

Steve, Host
SUVs & Speed Shop

kw_da · October 2006

Hi,

I have a 94 Villager. The paint is peeling off the top. It appears to be worse on the drain channels on either side. The paint is separating from the base coat - it appears that the final paint wasn't well bonded to the primer. Just putting tape on the paint causes it to peel up when you remove the tape. I'm currently trying to reprime & repaint.

Any advice, experiences to share?

Thanks,

David

sally1964 · October 2006

I have replaced the thermostat on my van and the top raditor hose is very hot while the hose coming out of the raditor is not so hot,
the thermostat is on the passenger side of the van and the other hose is opposite side.
someone told me that it might be that my raditor is stopped up. does anyone know what might be the problem.

sally1964 · October 2006

where is the heater hose located. on a 1995 mercury villager van

Claires · October 2006

You may have noticed that we're moving toward smaller, more focused discussions, and a number of those have already been created for this vehicle (e.g., tire issues, starting/stalling problems). Please go to the top level of the board here and look for an existing discussion that fits your question or issue. If you don't see a suitable topic, please feel free to create one. Here's a link: Nissan Quest

Clicking "Track This Group" will make sure that you don't miss any new posts or discussions. When you come back the next time, just click on "Read New Posts" and you'll be able to click through all new posts and topics in this board.

Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems

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