Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Pontiac Grand Am

1…4243454748…51

Comments

  • riclandricland Member Posts: 10
    I heard on Car Talk that lost of reverse usually means the transmission is shot.

    ric
  • mterrellmterrell Member Posts: 21
    I have a the 2004 gt and she is right it has a light and the computer doesn't go by miles. Gm says that you should change the oil with in 300 miles of the light alert. I usually dont wait for the light . Remember when you change the oil you will need to reset the computer. Turn the key to the on position with out starting and pump the gas pedal 3 times. You should hear a 3 beeps then you know it has reset the computer. You would be surprised at how many places that change oil dont know this.
  • mterrellmterrell Member Posts: 21
    Yea I noticed that on my 2004 gt. First thing I did was check the car fax report to make sure the dealer hadnt sold me a wrecked car! Now that is a big quality flaw.
  • riclandricland Member Posts: 10
    I heard that it's really expensive to put an out of track windown into track.

    ric
  • deejbax26deejbax26 Member Posts: 1
    I also have a 2004 GT with same wavy roof among other problems
  • mterrellmterrell Member Posts: 21
    I would hook a scanner and pull the codes . sounds like a sencer maybe a tps or map sencer. scanning a pulling the codes will save you a bunch of guess work and money
  • riclandricland Member Posts: 10
    Ok, I bit the bullet and cut that yellow rcode wire at the ignition. That's the little that cause all the problems in n-cards like the Grand Am. It reads your key and sends an ok to the computer to start the car. Prolem is, it doesn't work the way it's supposed to, that's why so many people run into that damn Passlock problem that cost $600 to $800 to fix.

    I found the easy fix in one of these forums. Today I went out and cut snipped the yellow wire (WHILE THE ENGINE WAS RUNNING)
    cut the engine off, then held my breath while I turned it back on. SHE FIRED UP RIGHT OFF! and has been firing up nicely all day.

    He's the post I got the idea from:

    Ric

    he 3 wires from the ignition are right there on the left. Start the car and cut the yellow wire. That's it. You won't have to replace the ignition lock cylinder until it falls apart. I don't have to worry about my wife and kids being stuck somewhere. I certainly didn't mean for it to come across as being complicated at all. Enevitably, someone will ask why this works.
    Report Post | IP: Logged

    http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/t491067.html
  • imecalco2005imecalco2005 Member Posts: 1
    The gauges, such as the speedometer, RPM gague, etc. won't light up!!! I have already checked all the fuses. I have already opened up the cluster and nothing is wrong. The bulbs are not burned out! Every other light is working though, like the ABS light, Security light, etc.
  • dapaperboydapaperboy Member Posts: 10
    :confuse:
    Anyone know of a Web site where I can find an armrest replacement for my gold, er, taupe 97 GA SE? Im struggling to find one. The one in the car now is cracked and about to give way.
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    The last time I looked these parts were still available from the dealer, but you had to buy the entire door panel. What about a wrecking yard?
  • dapaperboydapaperboy Member Posts: 10
    well, its not the door armrest. it's the one in between the seats. all i need is the top part. i'm checking with local dealer this week. searched on web to no avail, and junkyards around here are few, if any.
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    Is this what your looking for?:

    http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getLocator&siteid=213815- &chapter=DR1FQ92&appSectionid=2648&groupid=3396&subgroupid=4626&componentid=0&ma- ke=28&model=Grand%20am&year=1997&graphicID=FQ92250&callout=17&catalogid=2
  • greglabangreglaban Member Posts: 1
    What engine do you have? Thanks
  • dapaperboydapaperboy Member Posts: 10
    yuppers. No. 17 right there. Thank you, sir. :)
  • gainesnicgainesnic Member Posts: 3
    I have a 93 Grand Am and my entire gear pattern was messed up. Basically i had 1 neutral and the rest was all drive including park. I got mad and hit the shifter up into reverse one day out of anger and it straitened out. I was told it could have been a linkage problem. I was told that my trany was not affected in any way by this.
  • jlhou7jlhou7 Member Posts: 6
    we have a 94 grand dam my husband did everything possible, he even scanned it, with his computer scanner he says it says there is nothin wrong, can u help????image
  • kfran78kfran78 Member Posts: 1
    I have got a 2002 Grand Am 4 cyl. with 95K on it, mostly freeway miles, my wife bought it new. Lately the car has been sputtering when at a complete stop while the engine is in drive. The rpm's drop and lights go dim. I have brought it into a local dealership twice now, where they have looked over the car and basically found nothing, they changed the spark plugs, checked the alternator,battery,ect. Cleaned the fuel injectors and gave it a fuel kit whatever that is. The problem is still there.

    Anybody have any ideas on what might be going on?
  • grandamman1grandamman1 Member Posts: 4
    check to see if the fuel pump fuse is ok also turn key and listen see if you hear the fuel pump come on don't start it just turn the key on. Also if it is not whirling over try the cables and where battery cable goes down to the starter.
    regards
    rod
  • clunkerheadclunkerhead Member Posts: 2
    My sons key was stuck and would not shut off . I brought it to an independent electric man and he said switch was ok , but key was cut wrong. only the top part of the key does the work, flipped the key and it worked. was told to go to chevy dealer and they would cut an original key using the vin number of the car
  • jim73jim73 Member Posts: 3
    I OWN A 96 GRAND AM SE MY KEYLESS ALARM WONT COME ON WHEN I PRESS IT. IVE CHECK THE FUSES AND CHANGED THE BATTERY.IVE SWITCHED THE TOGGLE UNDER DASH THE ALARM LIGHT COME ON BUT NOTHING HAPPENS. KEY PAD SAYS CHAPMAN ON IT WILL A DEALER CARRY THIS ANY ADVISE BEFORE I SPEND A SMALL FORTUNE TO HAVE CHECK OUT THANKS JIM
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    Sounds like an aftermarket alarm to me. Going to the dealer probably won't help. More than likely, like most things these days, it will probably be easier & cheaper to have it replaced with a new one......
  • clunkerheadclunkerhead Member Posts: 2
    happened to my sons car, found out key was not an original and it only works one way, went to dealer and had new key cut from VIN on car. Cost 3 bucks. GOOD LUCK.
  • raycorriraycorri Member Posts: 13
    Here is some information that may help some of you. The initial link is to a bulletin from GM Engineering as it applies to GM Fleet Trucks and Vans. Following that, there is a re-write of the same bulletin so that we can apply it to GM cars. I used this Modification on my 2002 Oldsmobile Alero as a Permanent Disablement of Passlock. I did not install a remote starter. It works great.
    http://www.gmupfitter.com/publicat/bull/bull26.pdf

    PASSLOCK I or II DISABLEMENT

    The following is a procedure to disable Passlock I or II Systems for vehicles in which remote start/stop system installations are required. This procedure is required because a remote start system will not function with the current Theft Deterrent System (Passlock) which is included on many 1996 and up GM vehicles.

    Please note that this modification is intended to be used only in conjunction with the installation of a remote start/stop system and does not provide a procedure to install a remote start/stop system.

    CAUSE
    If an attempt is made to start a vehicle by a means other than a key rotation in the ignition switch, the Body Control Module (BCM) will interpret this start as a vehicle theft and disable the fuel injectors.

    CORRECTION
    A minor wiring modification may be made to allow the vehicle to be started remotely. This modification includes adding a switch to allow the customer to select “ON” to allow remote starting or “OFF” for normal Passlock operation.

    CAUTION: When this modification is performed and the switch is set to the ON position, the theft deterrent feature will be disabled. When the theft
    deterrent is disabled the SECURITY/THEFT SYSTEM telltale will light up indicating that the theft deterrent system is NOT functioning.

    PASSLOCK MODIFICATION
    Refer to appropriate GM service manuals and/or SVMQP Electrical Guideline Manual for instruction on splicing and electrical connections.
    1. Select a suitable on-off switch (see note below) which will be used to disable/
    enable the Passlock System. Mount the switch in a location such that it is
    accessible to the driver and will not interfere with normal vehicle operation.
    NOTE: This is an extremely low current circuit (approx. 7mA), it is therefore very important that a high quality, low energy, fast acting switch be utilized
    for this application.
    2. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
    3. Locate the Main Ignition Switch Harness in the Column. GM's Passlock System wires exit the Ignition Switch Tumbler together and then join with the Main Ignition Switch Harness. (See http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/ or http://64.85.6.118/diagrams/diagrams.asp and select your Make, Model and Year for wire colors and clues on the quickest way to access these wires.)
    4. Locate the Yellow Passlock Data Wire which is included in a bundle of three tiny (20 GA) wires wrapped in friction tape.
    Cut this wire and splice a 0.5mm2 (20 GA) yellow wire to each end of the cut wire.
    Keep wire length to a minimum. Route modification wires clear of moving parts.
    Connect the yellow wires to the switch such that the contacts are OPEN when the switch is in the ON position.
    5. Turn modification switch to the OFF postion (contacts closed).
    6. Start vehicle to verify normal operation. If engine “cranks but will not start"
    recheck the switch position (contacts should be closed), wire connectors and
    modification wiring.

    SWITCH OPERATION

    To enable remote start:
    Start the engine with the ignition key (modification switch must be in the OFF
    position). Turn modification switch to the ON position (contacts open). The
    SECURITY/THEFT SYSTEM Telltale will light up indicating that the Passlock System is inoperative.
    Once the SECURITY/THEFT SYSTEM telltale has been on for at least 5 seconds the vehicle can be turned off and then remotely started.

    To disable remote start:
    The Passlock System can be reactivated by turning the modification switch OFF
    (contacts closed). Vehicle can either be running or off when this is done.

    Please note that the VCM/PCM will record Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) related to the security system when the modification switch is in the ON position (circuit open). This is due to the way that the VCM/PCM interprets this condition.

    NOTICE
    Any condition which removes battery power from the Vehicle Control Module/Powertrain Control Module (VCM/PCM) (e.g. dead battery, disconnected harness connectors, etc.) will prevent the vehicle from being restarted. If the engine exhibits a “cranks but will not start” symptom, place the modification switch in the OFF (contacts closed) position. This will reactivate the Passlock System and allow the vehicle to be started with the ignition key.

    Ray

    Proud Member of The Anti-Passlock Club :P
  • sdulysduly Member Posts: 1
    :( I have a 99 Grand am SE 1 3.4 V6 My check engine light keeps coming on. I have taken it to the dealer and all they could tell me is that it is pulling a random misfire code. I have changed the following- plugs to ac Delco, wires, coil pack, module under the coil pack, main computer, injectors, mass airflow and mass airflow plug. AT low RPM I can feel the car misfire and high RPM or driveing there is no misfire and the check engine light only comes on when the car idles for a long period of time. Also when you take off from a stop the car hesitates slightly. I have had the car in the shop for about 3 weeks and they can not figure out what is going on with the car. I need help dose anyone have any ideas? IF you do please email me with any thoughts at sduly79@cox.net. Thanks :cry:
  • vt2jjlvt2jjl Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem. Can someone help?
  • cjm2cjm2 Member Posts: 1
    Did you get this fixed? Same problem here, key wont turn,, (2002 Grand Am)
    thanks,
  • donebeingcooldonebeingcool Member Posts: 10
    I have a 1991 Grand Am with 171 K miles. It still runs fine but I've been told it needs new shocks/struts and brakes soon. Also, the water leaks in somewhere and the car is flooded after it rains, the body also has some rust. It still has the original engine and I'm afraid that one will be the next thing to go. So, I have to part with this car soon, because fixing all that would cost more than what the car is worth ($200-400 on Kelley Blue Book).

    Question: Is there enough demand for these cars that I may be able to sell it if I post an ad in the paper/online? Or is it better to just trade it in for the pittance a dealer will give me? Any advice would be appreciated.
  • cricket2cricket2 Member Posts: 16
    I have a 1999 Grand Am SE and a couple weeks ago my check engine light came on. Nothing was different with the way the car was running so I took it by Auto Zone to have it tested. Two codes came up: Gas cap could be loose or the oxygen emissions. They turned the light off. It has since came back on but still no problems going on. The manual says it could be something serious if I let it go but most people say they have driven thousands of miles with the light on and nothing was wrong. Should I be concerned? Anyone out there had this problem? The car has 110K on it now.
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    If it was me with that car & mileage, I would take what I could get on a trade in.
  • dapaperboydapaperboy Member Posts: 10
    I spent about 1 1/2 years with the check engine light going on and off in my 97 Grand Am SE (6 cyl). Haven't had many engine problems (tho I did have to replace alternator - again - and battery). Now it's been on for several months, still nothing noticeable in engine. However, it irritates me seeing that light on. Could it be just an oxygen sensor problem?
  • cabooseycaboosey Member Posts: 1
    I fixed mine by doing a tune up and changing the fuel filter. If that doesn't fix it, have the catalyst converter and transmission checkout. First thing is to check is the catalyst converter after the fuel filter and tune up is done.

    However for your car, I suggest the fuel filter to be changed out. It's recommanded for the grand am's fuel filter to be changed ever 30,000 miles. Tune up ever 100,000 miles.
  • ijennings1ijennings1 Member Posts: 67
    We have problems with our 2002 Alero (same as Grand-Am, but a much smaller message board). We have had the recall done for the hazard warning problem. But now, the flasher unit keeps clicking at a very fast rate when neither the turn signals or hazard warning lights are switched on. Inevitably, it is intermittent, but is certainly getting worse. It is only the clicking noise that is apparent, as none of the turn signal lights come on when it makes this noise.It sounds as if the clicking is coming from the hazard warning light-switch.
    Can anyone advise what is wrong please?
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    You might want to try our Electrical Problems discussion. And there's certainly no reason not to post in the Alero discussion -- looks like you got help there on some other issues (and none here :)), so give it a try. Good luck!
  • dsk1978dsk1978 Member Posts: 1
    Deborah Not real sure on what it cost. I have a 92 grand-am that I purchased in 2004 it has been in the shop every moth since. I paid 3200 for it with it being a one owner car it had 60,000 miles on it when I got it. I have put a water pump, barakes, air compressor, heater core, thermosat, alternator, and etc and it has cost me nearly 3,000 dollars. It now has 80,000 miles on it ans I loan it to my unlce today and it ran it hot and blew the engine out on it does anyone out there know what it will cost me to replace a 3300 V-6 engine I probably really don;t want to know but need know. He is know purchasing this car.
  • scotty02gtscotty02gt Member Posts: 1
    I recently purchased a 02 GT with the 3.4, i have had alot of trouble finding performance parts for that particular engine. The only thing i could find was a BORLA dual cat-back system which was $1700 CDN. Can any one point me in the direction of any sites? I have tried contacting GM and they couldn't give me any answers :(
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    There isn't much available. Exhaust and intake, i.e. K & N intake filter. I've seen Paxton superchargers on the 3.4 but I believe it was a custom job, and I don't think you can buy it in a tailored kit.
  • carr4carr4 Member Posts: 1
    Recently purchased a used 02 Pontiac Grand Am. No owners manuel included so am having trouble figuring out the headlight operation. Is there a way to turn them on and off as you want or do they have to always be on auto where they go on when you start the car? How about the parking lights?
  • janisejanise Member Posts: 5
    While changing the transmission fluid and filter today on my 99 Pontiac Grand Am I found parts of a plastic O-ring or some sort of hard plastic seal. I know this isn't a good sign but does anyone have any idea where this would have come from? Judging from the two pieces I found it was originally about 3-4 inches around. I've noticed there's engine oil leaking so I'm sure there's a gasket change in my future as well but this really has me worried...Also...can anyone tell me EXACTLY, from experience how much transmission fluid This car actually takes? I've gotten 3 different answers (5, 6, and 7 quarts being the answers). I'm a female but I'm not ignorant, the guy at the parts store kept telling me to look on the dipstick...well I'm sorry but I've yet to find a dipstick on this car, just the filler hole for the transmission fluid, so if anyone has any clue where that is, if there actually is one, I'd be much obliged. Thanks in advance and sorry to have run on... Have a great day... :sick:
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    There's a sight hole on the right side (passengers side) of the transmission case that you remove the plug from to gauge the fill level.
    If I remember right, the last time I did it I dropped the pan, cleaned it and put in a new filter, then re-installed it (you don't need a new gasket if the steel lined one is still good), then put I believe three quarts of Dexron III in. Run it until it's all at normal temp (15-20min or so), then continue to fill (don't shut the engine off!) until fluid just starts to drip out of sight hole. Don't forget to put the plug back in, and don't shut the engine off until you have done so. I took the right front wheel off when I did it for better access, but you need the have the car relatively level to get the refill right.
    Don't know what the plastic thing you found was from.
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    I still have my 99 factory manual, I'll check to see how many quarts they recommend putting in before starting and then filling up all the way. I don't remember if it was three or not, but to get the final level you need to use the sight hole.
  • dhejldhejl Member Posts: 1
    I to have 99 grand am, fortunately for you, i know a lot about my car... No there is NO dipstick for the transmission fluid, only a fill resevoir. your transmission takes 7 qts but only if you are doing a fluid and filter change, and 13 qts if you drained it dry to the bone. Not sure about that o ring you are talking about, I have had a slew of issues with a radiator fluid leak, that lead into having to pull the water pump and timing chain cover just to change the thermostat, and now the check engine light is on, with a code for the upper O2 sensor, which from research is located in the exhaust system under the car. All in All 177,000+ miles later she's still going.
    hope this helps
  • janisejanise Member Posts: 5
    Thank you for the info, that was very informative...and appreciated!! :D
  • janisejanise Member Posts: 5
    Thanks I have mine too and from what I can tell it doesn't say at all. That manual isn't always as informative as it could be lol. :D
  • janisejanise Member Posts: 5
    Okay then, remind me NOT to listen to the guy at the auto parts store, I'll be going back tomorrow and buying ONE more quart of transmission fluid then. Just so ya know...A few weeks ago I was coming back from Louisiana, my former home sniffle, and let me tell you the roads are awful. I hit the Grand Canyon masquerading as a pothole and my service vehicle soon light came on. I got some really weird reading when I took it in to be checked and even the mechanic didn't know what it was. Some sort of history/MAF/MAP sensor nobody knows for sure. I can't remember the exact number on it but I did figure this out...when I hit that pothole my headlight went out. It's a strange situation indeed...I still love my car tho lol. :D
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    My factory manual says that refill after pan removal only requires 6.9 quarts (approximate). I suppose putting in 5-6 quarts or so before final fill to level is appropriate. Remember the fill sight plug should only be out while the engine is running, otherwise your going to have a mess.
  • janisejanise Member Posts: 5
    Will do, thank you very much! :)
  • robjjrobjj Member Posts: 3
    My daughter's 2003 GrandAm is doing the same thing. I pulled the face plate and it is definitely the flasher that is making the noise (flasher connected to the hazard warning switch). I tried replacing the flasher as the dealer said that that was the problem...well, it wasn't. Still clicking away. If you come up with a solution, please let me know. I'll do the same if I come up with anything. She only had it home for the weekend, so I don't have access to it to see if I can figure anything else out.
  • robjjrobjj Member Posts: 3
    Have a 2003 GA that has a flasher that is clicking. I've tried replacing the flasher, but still same problem. Reviewed the forum and it appears the problem is a switch in the steering column...some call it a multi-function switch, others call it a combination switch. Can anyone tell me the correct name, so when I go to the dealer, I can get the right item. Also, how difficult to replace it? I'm fairly handy, but don't have a service manual for the car as none is yet available, so will be working pretty blindly. Any help will be most appreciated.
  • robjjrobjj Member Posts: 3
    Is it even possible to get service manuals anymore? Have a 2003 GA...what are my options to get access to repair information? I will apparently have to access the steering column...how do I find information about how to do so correctly? The car is too new for a Hayes, or Chilton's to be available. What can a shadetree mechanic do these days?
  • brakeguybrakeguy Member Posts: 1
    I deal with customers on many occasions dodge caravan 13K miles warpped rotors, Jeep Grand cherokees all 4 rotors warpped 11k miles, MY grand am 134k miles origonal rotors no warp, my mothers 98 buick lasabre 112k miles no warp origonal rotors. brakes warp due to overheating and creating a imperfection in the rotors not by someones abilities to make rotors. Gm has released a new rotor design like that of the HONDA cars they are trapped behind the hub assembly. if they ever need service better BRAKE out your savings to remove honda rotors and service them labor is very high. Another thing if the dealer is Turning your rotors in hopes to fix your warped rotors the metal is already fatigued and the warp will come back ( THE ONLY FIX FOR A WARPED ROTOR IS A NEW ROTOR ) enjoy your cars
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles