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Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems

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Comments

  • realspeedracerrealspeedracer Member Posts: 2
    Thank you all for the non-response to post #583. I've solved the problem on my own.
  • racer_65racer_65 Member Posts: 43
    I have to disagree.

    1. If you "flush" your transmission every 25K miles, it's sure going to fail. When you flush a transmission, you tend to disturb the intricate things inside. It's better to just change the fluid according to the schedule in the manual and leave it alone.

    2. You do not need to change the oil every 3000 miles. Every study has shown that you can change the oil at 6000 mile intervals, even if you are driving a New York taxi.
  • drwatson1drwatson1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1994 Nissan Quest. the check engine light comes on from time to time. when i triped the codes I got a response that it was the EGR valve silnoid or circuit fault. I checked the EGR and it seems to operate correct, when electric current is applied you can blow through the valve. anyone had this problem or know what I should check next?
  • sblumsblum Member Posts: 5
    Has anybody noticed Nissan stopped putting lock cylinders on the passenger side of their cars in 2001. I don't carry the remote with me because it is my wife's car and I have one on my key chain for my car. I have to open the car from the driver's side then walk around to the passenger side to put my 2 year old in her seat. NISSAN, How cheap can you get?
  • md_techmd_tech Member Posts: 84
    Have you checked the BPT hose connected to the EGR to make sure it's not broken????

    Kristina/co host Our Turn
  • jkrolakjkrolak Member Posts: 38
    Gee, on my 99 Quest, I don't think I used the physical keylocks at all. Just push the fob and the doors open nicely. Or maybe your van does not have the automatic door lock system??? Anyway, you walsked around the van when you bought it. I guess you just don't like your van and some other person is going to be the beneficiary of that.
  • agt_cooperagt_cooper Member Posts: 202
    Perhaps if you took the "Nissan Quest is the best van in the world" blinders off for a minute, you might notice that sblum explained that because he already has a transmitter for his own car on his keyring, he doesn't carry one for the Nissan. So, on the rare occasions he drives it, the lack of a keylock on the passenger's side is a bit of a nuisance...

    It does seem like a short-sighted cost-cutting measure by Nissan!!
  • sblumsblum Member Posts: 5
    I love my Quest. It is my third one. It just irks me that I have to take my wife's keys because Nissan cheaped out on installing a lock cylinder on the passanger side of the car. My 1997 Quest had a lock cylinder in both the passenger door and the rear sliding door. My 1999 has a lock cylinder in the passenger door only. That was OK because if you turned the key twice it opened all the doors. Now my 2001 only has a lock cylinder in the tailgate and the driver's door. What next? Are they going to rely on the transmitter and delete all the lock cylinder? I don't like it at all. But for now I love my 01 Quest!
  • andrewwongandrewwong Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Nissan Quest and want to add some aftermarket fog lights. I have a set chosen by Hella but an not sure if the alternator and electronics of the car can handle the drain produced by running the fog lights at night. What is the amount of power drawn from the factory fog lights that Nissan provides? I did not order these fog lights so I am hoping to chose a pair taht have similar draw so that I dnot affect the electrical components of the car. Will 55 watt lights run oin the Quest without difficulty? I nkow the car has a 125 amp alternator which seems more than adequate to me. Any response would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for your help.
  • waynerpwaynerp Member Posts: 35
    Current draw can be calculated by dividing watts by volts, i.e. 55watts / 14 volts = 4 amps; or 8 amps for both lamps. I installed the Nissan fog lamps on my 2000 SE, but I don't know the lamp wattage (I would guess 55 watts each is about right). The wiring harness for the Nissan kit connects directly to the battery and is switched by a relay and dash-mounted rocker switch. Mine work perfectly - I haven't noticed any strain on the electrical system. I recommend you follow Nissan's design, using a relay and taking power directly from the battery (make sure a fuse is included, and is inserted in the power lead close to the battery!). The Nissan kit is complete, of high quality, and easy to install (time consuming though - it took me most of a day). I hope this helps -
  • waynerpwaynerp Member Posts: 35
    In cold weather ("cold" here in Atlanta is about 40 degrees) I've noticed that the liftgate on my 2000 SE will not open all the way by itself, but requires a light push. Once open, it stays up fine. Has anyone else noticed this? Maybe mine has a weak strut? Thanks for any comments -
  • agt_cooperagt_cooper Member Posts: 202
    The struts used for hatchbacks, liftgates, etc. are gas charged units. When closed, the gas is compressed in a small chamber. As you open them, the pressure offers an "assist" to help open the gate, and provides enough resistance to keep it in the open position.

    As with all gases, those used in these struts are affected by temperature changes, so under cooler conditions, the gases contract, and as a result, don't exert as much pressure on the piston of the strut. So, the "assist" is a little less, but the resistance is still enough to hold the gate up.

    When they fail, not only will they not help you open the gate, they will also not hold it up. Have you ever seen someone with an Escort hatchback with a stick in the back? They use that to hold up the hatch!!!
  • waynerpwaynerp Member Posts: 35
    Thanks, agt cooper - that makes sense. Only these struts just seem to be a little weaker than the ones in other vans I have owned ('99 Windstar, '96 Grand Caravan). In those vehicles the gates always opened fully with no assist, which makes me think I could have a defective strut.
  • akanglakangl Member Posts: 3,281
    I run into the same problem with my 99 Quest SE, I am forever hitting my head when the liftgate doesn't go up all the way in the winter. It took me a few bumps to the head to remember to push it up the rest of the way, mine will only go about half way on its own, the rest of the way I have to push it.
    Now onto the foglight issue. I recently had installed PIAA dual fog/driving lights onto my Quest, the driving lights are 55W but I will soon be putting in 130W bulbs. I have noticed no problems at all with it, other than the fact that they guy who put them on loosened one of the battery cables and that made the battery weak for cold starts, one trip to the Nissan dealer and a lecture from Chuck got it fixed. I plan on having another set of driving lights installed on the van next summer. Its dark a lot in the winter and the moose like to camp out in the road.
  • gasguzzgasguzz Member Posts: 214
    is there a factory pre-wired connector behind the dash (so you don't have to go through the firewall) - when you use the nissan kit?
    where is the switch (the blank plug next to the cuise-off switch)?
  • waynerpwaynerp Member Posts: 35
    The Nissan kit routes the lead from the rocker switch to the relay through the left wheel well (the plastic fender liner must be removed for access). It passes through an existing opening at the rear of the wheel well into the dash area behind the fuse box. The rocker switch replaces the blank plug next to the cruise-off switch. The kit includes a connector that taps into the headlight circuit. By the way, the Nissan foglight wiring harness is purchased separately - could probably be used with aftermarket lights.
  • gasguzzgasguzz Member Posts: 214
    I always shoot for a clean install - it's more reliable.
    "the Nissan foglight wiring harness is purchased separately"
    Is that the rocker switch and the wiring to the headlight tap connector? How much?
    On the fogs themselves, can you get just the lamps and the mounts? How much?
    What is the operational logic of the fogs (since it's tapped into the headlights), is it active only when the headlights are on high (or low)?
    Sorry for the many questions, but who knows more than the owner.
    Thanks.
  • frankjws1frankjws1 Member Posts: 3
    This week(ending 12-15-00) my Quest ended up in the shop(ref. posts 579,586). Regional tech. specialist came up from Atlanta for a test drive. He told the service manager that a new set of Michelins should solve the problem. He also said that Nissan makes some type of seat damper for the rear set of bucket seats that should help with the vibration(seems like the tires would take care of the entire problem, don't you think?). I'm definitely glad that Nissan is willing to do something however, I noticed a recent post(#446) where Joel Rapowitz stated that He has had a similar problem and the new Michelins did not fix the problem. So Joel, if you're out there and read this, let me know what has happened since then. I would be curious to take an informal survey of Quest owners on this forum to see if any of you have experienced any vibration problems that you notice while driving between 50-80mph.
  • akanglakangl Member Posts: 3,281
    I have a 99 Quest SE and the rear captain's chair on the driver's side has a horrible vibration, it has been to two different dealers and had the seat latches replaced, also I have put different tires on the van and nothing helped. I have finally given up on it and figure its just the way it is. The dealers don't know how to fix it. My van has 15,000 miles on it and its been that way since day one. The other captain's chair on the passenger side doesn't vibrate at all. Strange problems my van has!! Oh well, I love it.
  • stickguystickguy Member Posts: 50,439
    See if you can find another van on the lot where the seat doesn't vibrate. Then swap that seat into your van and see what happens. That should at least prove if it is the van or the seat. If it is the seat, have them give you a replacement.

    2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.

  • dc52dc52 Member Posts: 2
    After a year of fighting this intermittent problem, and having mechanics "guess" at what could cause it (fuel pumps, fuel filters, idle air valves, etc) I found one who seemed to know his stuff and take the time to figure it out. He found the fuel pressure regulator was at fault and replaced it. I was getting at least one stall a week, but since the repair, no stalls in two months. I am now cautiously optimistic, but this is the longest I have gone without a problem in over a year. The part is $95.00, and labor was $65.00. Definitely worth taking a shot for the price.
  • grammy1grammy1 Member Posts: 6
    The sliding doors on our 99 Quest have frozen shut for the 2nd time in a week. Does anyone else have this problem? Is there a solution- other than moving south? The van was driven through heavy rain and then the temps plunged. The doors were not locked. Very frustrating!
  • bonreabonrea Member Posts: 48
    Grammy1,
    If the problem is the steal frame sticking to the seal (rubber gasket) around the door this is easily fixed. Purchase from your local hardware store a can of silicone spray. Spray it on the seal making sure you don’t get it on anything but the seal. It can make the paint job feel greasy. This will prevent ice and sticky stuff from forming.
    If the rollers or the roller arms on the door are getting stuck then take it to your dealer ASAP while it is still stuck. Good luck and let us know how it goes.
  • bonreabonrea Member Posts: 48
    Just purchased a new 2000 Quest on Dec 20, 2000 with the 3.9% interest deal. Wouldn't have otherwise. Drove it home and parked it in the garage. Wife loved it when she followed the red ribbon across the living room floor and out to the garage. The ribbon was as big as the rear hatch door.
    Haven't had it long enough to have problems. Did get lots of oooohhsss and aaaahhsss from the neighbors when fitting it into the garage. It's a little bigger that her old '94 Altima.
    Dark Blue and Quicksilver and loving it.

    If anyone out there is reading this thinking if they should purchase a Quest let me tell you. We have had 7 Nissans over the years and there is a reason for purchasing another one. RELIABILITY! AAA not needed with a Nissan...
  • vijjisvijjis Member Posts: 1
    I have 1999 Nissan Quest GXE. It has little over 20000 miles. My accelerator gets stuck sometimes at 0 miles speed. It never happened when I am moving. This does not happen always. Does any body have the similar problem?
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Hi vijjis,

    I've never had anything like this (same van as yours; 47k). Can you describe the symptoms with a bit more detail? It kinda sounds like a sticking throttle caused by carbon buildup in the throttle body....

    Steve
    Edmunds.com Town Hall co-host
    Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories conferences

  • dhoffdhoff Member Posts: 282
    Do you mean that the throttle sticks OPEN, so that the engine rpm's don't drop down to idle? Or do you mean that the throttle sticks CLOSED, so that you have to push hard on the gas pedal to speed up the engine?

    If it is the latter, it most likely is carbon buildup in the throttle body. I have had this happen on my 99 Quest several times. Every 10,000 miles or so I have to clean it out with spray solvent.

    There was a previous post on how to do this, but I'll be darned if I can find it now. If this is your problem and you want to try cleaning it yourself, let me know and I'll post instructions on how I did it.

    Hope this helps.

    Dave
  • md_techmd_tech Member Posts: 84
    Vijjis it sounds like your throttle plate is sticking from carbon build up like Steve and Doff stated in the above posts ... Cleaning the build up off of you throttle plates is easy to do... Something that you may want to do at home..

    Kristina/Host Of Our Turn
  • sethitarsethitar Member Posts: 1
    I just signed papers for 2001 Quest GXE (w/ comfort plus). Is $23K a good deal or i got ripped off? I looked around the web, and I feel stupid for not paying little less. And no CD player in the van.. i just saw the CD button on the dashboard and assumed that CD is there.. am I alone who thinks that it's misleading to have a CD wired dashboard and no CD player?
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Edmunds "True Market Price" for this model is $20,689, plus destination and your option package. More detail is here.

    The CD button could be confusing I suppose (it's on my non-CD equipped '99 GXE too).


    Steve_
    Host
    Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
  • sam7068sam7068 Member Posts: 28
    I paid 21K (total including destination)for mine in San Jose CA. Mine also came with comfort package. You can really make a good deal on these vans if you shop around.
  • stickguystickguy Member Posts: 50,439
    Just an update for some earlier posts about using up the brakes. I have 19,000 miles on my '99 SE, and just had the tries rotated. While the tires were off, had them check the brakes. According to the tech, the fronts were at 80% and the rears at 95%. Based on that, this thing may not need a brake job in my lifetime.

    2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.

  • dgrover1dgrover1 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 99 Nissan Quest GXE and I too had the wiper problems. At first I thought it was me and then I receivd a recall notice in the mail. I took it into the dealer where I bought it and they repaired it free. It is the switch in the turn signal indicator. On the subject of recalls, I also received on for some models having steering problems because the bolts were not tightned properly. I took my car into the same dealership and they checked them out and they are all fine. If you bought your car new, you should have been sent a recall notice telling you about these problems.
  • troutrou Member Posts: 4
    I unfortunately own a 2000 Quest. At approx. 7000 miles the front and rear motor mounts were replaced as was the an axle and the transmission. These were all done because of a clank noise when shifting. It is still there not as loud but now I told is normal. Also my steering wheel makes a swooshing noise when you turn it. It gets so loud and annoying that I am forced to keep the radio on. (I am told this noise is normal) Does anyone have this problem?
    We also had on turn signal replaced - but it still doesn't stay down when I want to signal left and the steering wheel is turned only slightly or turned to the right. Does anyone have this problem?
    We also had the passenger air bag cover replaced - it was coming off. These are a few of the problems we have had.
    I have contacted Nissan because I don't feel safe in this car. They would only offer us an extended warranty. They didn't feel any of these problems were "safety" issues. We tried to trade it in at the dealership where we brought it at. They wouldn't even consider any trade because they said they couldn't sell it to someone else knowing what was wrong with the van. I feel like we are stuck with this lemon.
    I will never buy another Nissan Product. I my opinion and my experience with them shows me Nissan doesn't care about their customers. They have your money.
  • clu3clu3 Member Posts: 5
    My 94 Nissan Quest has a rear fan control in the front dash panel as well as one in the middle seat area. The rear fan now does not working no matter I control it from the front or middle control panel. Any one has any ideas?
  • jr1drjr1dr Member Posts: 5
    I just received a recall notice from Nissan about my 2000 SE steering rack. According to the recall, the steering rack bolts may not be torqued the proper amount. Has anyone had any problems with their steering? I've got 7000+ miles on it now without any problems.
  • akanglakangl Member Posts: 3,281
    I received that recall for my 99 Quest SE and although I had 15,000 miles on the van with no problems I still had the dealer check it out when it was in for other stuff. Everything was fine. Might not hurt to have it checked when its in service for something else.
  • dhoffdhoff Member Posts: 282
    Trou, I'm sorry to hear of all the trouble you have had with your Quest. I can't say as I have had a swooshing noise in the steering. The turn signal lever not always "catching" is unfortunately normal in this van. Mine does it too. It seems like the detents in the switch are big, and if the steering wheel is turned a bit, it doesn't want to catch. I've learned to live with it. If I were you I'd jump on the extended warranty. It will at least give you some peace of mind.

    What I find curious is that the dealer would not take it in on trade because of the problems with it. If they tried that on me I'd say, "Well, let's go back to the service department and talk to the manager. They were supposed to fix the van and it should now be problem free. If it's not, they have some more work to do".

    Clu3, it sounds like you have a bad relay or loose solder connection in your blower controller. If you are handy and have a soldering iron, you can fix it yourself. Check out this web site:

    http://web2.airmail.net/scutchen/vq_faq/index.htm

    You will find instructions there to fix the problem, complete with pictures.

    Dave
  • troutrou Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the advise on the warranty but at this point the only way we will have piece of mind is to get rid of the Quest. It has brought nothing but problems and a lot of stress. I don't want to wait to see what will brake next. I would never recommend a Nissan product to anyone because of the way we have been treated.
  • clu3clu3 Member Posts: 5
    Thanks Dave, that looks like a very useful web site.
    I will check it and let you know once I find the problem.
    clu
  • troutrou Member Posts: 4
    has anyone experienced a swooshing noise in their steering wheel. Once it starts it stays for the rest of our journey. Is this a saftey issue?
  • charles15charles15 Member Posts: 57
    Two days ago my 99 Quest (31k) failed to start. Would not even turn over - dash warning lights came on as normal when the key was turned but the starter did not engage at all. Tried new battery with same result. After many tries, it turned over and ran fine. Shut it off and again same problem. After many more tries it did start and I took it to the dealer. When I left it in the evening in the dealers service line, it again would not start. The next morning, it started fine for the mechanic and he could never duplicate the problem. So now I am driving it around just waiting for it to leave me sitting somewhere. Anyone else have such a problem? I am a pretty good shade tree mechanic and it has me baffled. I did clean the battery terminals and cables - no help. Any thoughts would be appreciated. This is the only problem that I have had with the vehicle so far with 31k miles on the odometer.

    Charlie
  • mrperfectmrperfect Member Posts: 16
    i've had that one before -- mine was a starter solenoid. Pretty common on Ford products.
  • charles15charles15 Member Posts: 57
    I also believe it is either the starter solonoid, short in the cable or a ground problem. Just hope that I can replicate it for the dealer before I get to 36K.
  • pillsburpillsbur Member Posts: 1
    Message 564 indicated that he would offer instructions to solve the problem at home. At $100 a pop through the dealer I am ready to learn to do it myself. How do I take care of this recurring problem?
  • md_techmd_tech Member Posts: 84
    What type of gas do you use??? An do you change your air filter on regular intervals??? Your problem is resulting from excessive carbon build up on the throttle plate,which is causing your throttle to stick. How often do you have to do a throttle body service??

    md_tech
    Host
    Women's Auto Center Message Board
  • akanglakangl Member Posts: 3,281
    Just wondering, what year Quests is this happening in? I have never had a problem with the throttle sticking in my Quest......7 months and 17,000 miles.....or in any other vehicle for that matter. One thing I do is about once a month I get after the van, floor it from a near stop, don't know if that helps at all but I have never had a carbon build up in any vehicle I have ever owned. I did have problems with carbon build up in a 94 Blazer that I bought used, the carbon was breaking loose and sticking in the EGR valve, it stopped after I owned the truck for a couple months. Of course the majority of my driving is highway not city.
  • mckrautermckrauter Member Posts: 1
    Is the front passenger seatbelt suppose to lock? Whenever I sit in that seat and I move around and the belt tightens a little then it locks so I cannot get it to loosen again unless I unbuckle the seat belt and then rebuckle it. Is that suppose to happen? Also with the rear hatch why won't it go up all the way in the cold? I have to push it the rest of the way up or I will bump my head. Is that a defect or is it something that I will just have to accept as a quirk on this van? Thanks for any advice you can give me!
  • md_techmd_tech Member Posts: 84
    The shock problem is something that unfortnatly wont go away. You can blame this problem on the cold weather and the type of liquid shocks Nissan's use...

    md_tech
    Host
    Women's Auto Center Message Board
  • maxdrivermaxdriver Member Posts: 6
    This is a little off-topic, but I'd be interested in what information anyone has about the next van in the Nissan line-up. I've read where the Villager and the Quest are being phased out this year, but haven't heard what plans, if any, there are to replace them.

    As a point of interest, I have a 94 Villager with about 75,000 miles and am very pleased with the reliability and drive-ability of the van!
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