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Comments
Schaffs3
http://www.partsforyourcar.com/
Personally, I would switch to synthetic oil at 10k miles, to synthetic transmission fluid at 30-40k miles, and to good performance tires at about the same mileage. Firehawk SH-30, or Michelin Pilot, or something of comparable quality:
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/surveyresults/hpas.jsp
it does not cost much, and will only improve the reliability / safety.
By the way, the stock GA is rather fast car with V-6. Roughly comparable to base Camaro / Firebird / Mustang. Substantially faster are only cars with inline 6 (BMW), supercharger (GP GTP / Regal GS), and/or with 8 cylinder engines. Or motorcycles.
http://www.ramairtech.com/
Has anyone installed the rear sway bar or the front/rear strut tower brace from Ramairtech.com?
Has it changed the car's handling? I'm looking at getting the rear sway bar and was curious if anyone had any experience with it.
Thanks!
> Ramairtech.com?
Good question! I'm curious about that myself. I'd like to know if the ride is made more harsh.
Does ramairtech describe in detail the effect the particular sway bar has on the GA? If not beware.
I'd start with the front tower brace first. It will sharpen the cars reflexes. I thought the GA handling was pretty good already and would play with the rear tire pressures before changing the sway bar. You can increase the slip angle of the rear tires by increasing the pressure modestly (2 or 3 psi). This will have a similar effect as a stiffer bar.
Try the rear tire pressure route before deciding on the bar.
Regarding third party sway bars..., I appreciate heng's comments. Actually, I would love to just have the GT's sway bar. I don't want a "rally" or road competition type bar. Just didn't want to put on a sway bar that goofed up the ride for normal riding. My problem with suspension is my obvious ignorance on how the components function. Heng's explanation helped a lot. Interesting about the rear tire inflation pressure. RamAirTech claims their bar is a one inch bar. That doesn't tell me much although I have noticed that the bar for the stock SE and the one for the stock GT is certainly different.
One problem I have discovered with "enthusiasts" buying third market items is that their enthusiasm for products tend to blind their objectivity in this stuff. So, I tend to try to find reviews and opinions from others who are more in the know. I tend to shy from messing around with suspension components, but would like to tighten up my SE's handling.
I had heard from many people the advantages of adding a front strut tower brace, and how much better their car handled afterwards. I decided to go with the Next Level bar because it was a little cheaper than the one from Ram Air Etch. Both front strut tower braces are 1" bars by the way, the key difference is that the Ram Air bar is a one piece unit while the Next Level bar is a three piece set (two mounting brackets and the bar itself).
I just installed the bar this weekend and I immediately noticed a difference in handling. The car is definitely more solid while turning, most of the front end flex is taken away. The car really feels like it is hugging the road and doesn't mind taking sharp turns.
It is a good investment, I would recommend installing a front strut tower brace. It takes all of about 3 minutes to install, so you don't have to worry about being a mechanic. All you have to do is attach the brackets to the bar, bolt the one side to the drivers side strut, bolt the other side to the passengers side strut and then twist the bar to tighten everything.
What about ride comfort? Afterall, the comfort is nothing to write home about to begin with, did it get "harsher"?
Thanks again.
I have been experiencing a rumble when I park nose first on steep hills. The whole car shakes:(
I was told that this was caused by a small problem in the transmission, but GM has no fix for it... so of course this TB is only found on that PI line. There is no danger of having any problem...just a pain in the butt. Other than that this is the first mechanical problems that we have had with the car. Happy Motoring To All
Thanks
Mike
> simple part can make so much difference,why doesn't GM put them on to begin with.
> There must be some down side...
That's a good point and I'm curious about that myself. However, recently I had to rent a couple of cars and was given a Buick Regal which had the braces and a Buick Century which did not.
The Regal's brace was typical---going across the towers, and in addition, had an x-member going from the tower to the front middle of the radiator area.
The Century, which has the same chassis as a Regal had no braces at all, but the mounting brackets were there for braces.
As a side note, the Impala and Monte Carlo have strut tower braces.
Soooo, I dunno. Not sure why they don't go ahead and include these as standard issue for all the vehicles.
JD
Terri
tandretti22@yahoo.com
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I smell a forum troll!
I've checked around with aftermarket suppliers without success. Does anyone know where I can get replacement lug covers for the black plastic ones on the aluminum wheels? I was hoping to find stainless steel, but found none. Any ideas?
1. Both the Grand Am SE and the GT do in fact have a rear swaybar. It is a hollow bar, 15.3mm in diameter. The Alero also has this same swaybar. The Grand Am GT does, however, get a 24mm SOLID front swaybar, as does the Alero with the FE3 suspension option. The regular Alero and Grand Am SE get a 24mm front bar also, but it is hollow.
The Ram Air Technologies rear swaybar is solid and 25mm in diameter. It increases roll stiffness SIGNIFICANTLY to the point that the car will oversteer when pushed. The back end of the car can whip around and cause a spin if the driver cannot control the car with more throttle. The ride will also be rougher. There have been problems with end links breaking, so use at your own risk. Inexperienced drivers, you have been warned. You can carry more speed through the turns, however.
2. Strut tower braces are designed to take the flex out of the vehicle's unibody during hard connering. The car responds to steering inputs quicker as does not seem to roll over and die as much. I highly recommend them as cheap chassis upgrades to any Grand Am or Alero owner. I personally have both front and rear bars on my Alero, and the car is much happier at the track.
For other great info on the Grand Am, visit the Forum at http://www.grandamgt.com.
Thanks!
If you like the safety of understeer, leave the stock swaybars installed. Body lean is more a function of springs and shocks, not strut tower braces and swaybars.
:-)
Pat
Host
Sedans and Women's Auto Center Message Boards
Most of the regulars know I just purchased a 2001 Nissan Crew Cab SE. I've been driving it for 2 weeks now. I took off from work today as we are preparing to go up to our cabin in the Hill Country for a long weekend. The Grand Am has just been sitting in the driveway for the last 2 weeks. I got in it today and took it for a short hop to the local Barnes & Noble, and actually had feelings of guilt for having abandoned it the last 2 weeks. I've decided to take it up to the country this weekend instead of the CC. I found myself smiling while driving back from the store for no apparent reason other than just happy to be driving it. Found myself driving a bit more aggressive then I have in the CC.
Best to all. Have a good weekend!
"Cheating" on your car?
Ever see the Lexus commercial where the guy comes home with lipstick on his collar, looking guilty, and the wife says "You're not fooling me, you've been driving all night."
Have a great weekend!
http://www.alero.org/members/mattF.htm
Thanks,
Check this out...it explains the various trim levels.
http://www.edmunds.com/new/2000/pontiac/grandam/se4drsedan24l4cyl5m/overview.html?id=lin0006
Best.
The SE1 wheels look like 'snowflake' type wheels.
SE2 trim was dropped for 2001, so the turbine wheels are optional. So, if its a '99-'00 with those wheels its an SE2.
I have a 2000 SE1; however, I have the v6 engine and the alloy wheels. You can get both the v6 3.4 engine and alloy wheels as options on the SE1. One way to tell if you have the SE2 is to see whether you have keyless entry or not. If you do have keyless entry then you should have the SE2, you should also have the alloy wheels with the SE2.
tomcat630 is correct, the SE2 trim line was dropped for 2001. This means that most of the SE2 options are now standard with the SE1, like alloy wheels and keyless entry.
Just some info for you, hope this helps.
Now for the 100th time, has anyone ever found an after-market stereo that'll work with those steering wheel controls??? Please, please, please...
One of the easiest ways to tell SE1 from SE2 is the map lights on the mirror and cargo net in the trunk. Everything else (rims, keyless entry, and V6 are available for both SE1 and SE2)
BTW, which brand of STBs did you install? The more I hear, it seems likely the next project for my GA. That along with replacing the speakers and "subwoofer" joke of a set up in the rear deck.
I almost got a job with Delco about 15 years ago... thank god that didn't happen.
One of my oringinal posts was about swapping out the Delco for a slick aftermarket stereo, but there are none available that are both a double DIN and have red display. If anyone has had success finding a nice stereo that fits in with the GAs interior atmoshpere, let us know.
The other day I started looking over how much of a project it would be to swap speakers. I had assumed that the rear speaker covers snapped into place, wrong. they are part of the entire rear shelf. plus you need to remove the door panels to get the fronts out. I am afraid to take the car apart and then not be able to get some the snap fit pieces back on.
Well, a little update on my car so far. I just rolled over to 23K miles. The car runs and drives great. Got some rattles, but i found that the main screw in the door panel on the passenger side was missing. once i find one to fit, i think most noises will stop. My car is dark red, and since this is the second car i've owned this color, i should have known not to get it. It shows scratches big time. I posted back awhile ago about my air conditioner not seeming that cold. well, now that it has actually warmed up in Massachusetts, I have found that it works just fine. I guess it was just colder outside than it was with the AC.
Oh geez, I just realized that I'm one of those guys that gets online and writes a novel...
www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S-JYm64JZs8bV/
ProdView.asp?s=0&c=3&g=300&
I=130DEHP47D&o=M&a=1
(Link is broken because of Edmund's stupid software, must reassemble yourself)
Hope this helps,
TC
That car was a blast to drive and I never had any problems with it. I threw it down the road pretty hard and it seemed to like the manual transmission.
I'm sure that since it was a GT, that made a big difference. And, it had Goodyear Eagle RS-A tires.
Not sure what Consumers Reports was beefing about, but it was a great little coupe for me. Traded it for the '99 SE...
I have a 2000 Grand Am SE1 and I recently replaced the rear speakers. You are correct, the covers for the rear speakers (which are 6"x9" size) are directly connected to the rear deck. As you might guess, this means that the entire rear deck needs to be removed to gain access to the speakers. This is relatively easy, however you do need to take a few things apart first. I don't want to go into too much detail in this post, but I will say that the rear speakers are attached to mounting brackets that make the actual removal of the speakers themselves pretty easy. If anyone would like to know how to remove the rear speakers, please mail me, the_art_guy@hotmail.com, and I will be glad to give you instructions.
Also, I replaced my stock stereo with a Pioneer in-dash DC receiver, model DEH-4100. It is a regular size receiver so it sticks out a little bit, but not too much, but is a nice upgrade. Yea I kind of miss the red lighting on the stock radio, but it didn't have a CD player, and I needed one. There is a feature called FIE (Front Image Enhance) which is nothing more than a built in crossover. It is a selectable low-pass crossover which means that at a certain frequency, the radio cuts out the highs and sends everything below that to the rear speakers. You can select between 100, 160, or 250Hz. This is a nice feature because what it does is move the sound field from the middle of the car, up to the driver and passenger area, so the sound doesn't seem like it is coming from behind you when you're driving. I use this feature all the time. I don't think that the new 2001 Pioneer models have this, I think they have replaced it with something called SFEQ (Sound Focus IQ). Mine is a 2000 model.