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Chrysler LHS

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  • tc1973tc1973 Posts: 7
    Newcomer to the boards! Wondering if anyone has had this problem: My '99 LHS (56,000 mi)is extremely hard to turn wheel only to the left when driving under 15mph. Fluid is good with no leaks. Will turn to the right just fine. Jacked the vehicle up on jack stands to look for problems under vehicle while having someone turn wheel side to side. Turns just fine both directions while wheels are off the ground! Everything looks ok. When this problem first started, I also noticed a couple of taps? or dull clunks when turning wheel both ways. Purchased the car at 50,000 mi and noticed that when turning the steering wheel from left to right or vice-versa, there is about a 2 inch gap in turning before you could feel the steering actually start to turn the wheels. I just dealt with it thinking it wasn't a big problem. Fortunately, I did purchase the extra warranty and will be having these problems looked at Monday. Will be checking the boards regularly for any help on this matter. Thanks to anyone in advance.
  • There have been quite a few reports of damaged tie-rods and bad rack and pinion difficulites on these LH models, all occurring around 50K miles. Your dealer should be able to fix easily and should have the parts in stock.

    Suggest you browse back into the archived msgs for other items to check and watch for in the near future. Since the Intrepid, Concorde, LHS, and 300M are essentially the same, it would be a good idea to check through those forums also.
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    The keyword search on the left side of the page will search all the Town Hall discussions, active and archived, and will return links to messages that contain the keyword(s) specified.

    :)
  • tc1973tc1973 Posts: 7
    Miles and Pat,
    Thank you both for the info. Going to the dealer Monday. Will reply back with the solution. Only one other issue that is driving me insane is the small dash board speaker near the windshield which is blown. Can't stand the rattling, so I have to adjust the sound to the rear speakers. BTW, I believe I have the upgraded Infinity system with 9 speakers. The problem is I cant seem to figure out how to get to that speaker! I have pulled the center console out, as well as the glove box and the drivers side under the steering column. I just cant get to it to pull the leads off the speaker. I am guessing that the entire dash will have to be pulled out and I am hoping I dont have to go that route. Any ideas on this?

    Thanks again in advance...

    Tim
  • tc1973tc1973 Posts: 7
    In response to Slick's post #588:

    I glanced over some old posts and this one caught my eye. I have a Honda Accord (in addition to my '99 LHS) that had gas in the oil. Turned out to be the ECU (electronic control unit, $80 used from junk yard) My Honda was puttering and billowing smoke out the exhaust that reeked of gas. Once I replaced the ECU, plugs, and the oil, it ran like a champ. (195,000 miles) May not be your specific problem, but I have heard (and saw for myself after opening the old ECU to look) that the solder contacts for the injectors turn to reddish brown color that reflect burning of the contacts. My ECU was causing my injectors to stay wide open. (Went thru 3/4 of a tank in just 18 miles!!) Hope this helps..
  • The '99 LHS upgraded Infinity had 11 speakers (3 on top of dash, 1 each on door mirror post, 1 each in each door, and 2 on the rear package shelf). If one bought the non-upgraded version, the 2 small tweeters on the door mirror posts were omitted. In addition, the amp power was lowered from 350a to about 200a or so.

    Busted speaker cones are not unusual; mine was delivered with a bad one in the driver's door.

    To get to your bad left dash top speaker, yes, the dash must be removed. Not an easy job and you stand the chance of many rattles if you try it yourself. But get a tech manual for that year and it tells you how to go about it. Perhaps your extra warranty will cover it? Worth checking.

    Good luck,

    Miles
  • tc1973tc1973 Posts: 7
    Hello Miles,

    I did some research and the warranty does not cover the speaker. I have the 9 speaker setup with the mirror post speakers and the Infinity amp in the trunk. There is only 1 speaker in the dash. I have the Haynes manual for the car. (should have bought a Chilton) The Haynes does not even mention the dash speaker, only the door speakers. I cant see spending a bunch of money to have one of these stereo shops remove the dash just for 1 speaker. What's your opinion about the factory head unit? I put a Pioneer head unit and speakers (no amp) in my Honda and the sound is very powerful with it only a little over half volume! The LHS with the Infinity setup can be turned to full volume and it's nothing to me. I like the factory head unit only because the memory settings it has for 2 different drivers and the feature buttons it has. I am wondering if the head unit is not powerful enough or can I just upgrade to a bigger amp and maybe better speakers. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks again...
  • Sorry, but you are enquiring about car stereo's from the wrong guy. I usually put in the best offered by the factory but have never installed anything after-market except that I always move my Sony CD magazine player from car to car and play it via infra-red through the existing car stereo.

    My Infinity setup with the 11 speakers and 350a or so is quite adequate for me as it will drive me out of the car at full blast. :^))

    Only problem with leaving that bad speaker active as I can see it, would be the irritant of having its buzzing output messing up the sound level in the car, whatever amp you install. If you could get access to that area to cut the wires, that would be a solution. But such access, IMO appears to require removal, at least, of the dash top. Maybe you could stick something in the speaker slots to totally wipe out the speaker cone, thus perhaps cutting any output whatsoever.

    Personally, I have never messed with the speakers on any car other than to replace bad ones.

    Sorry that I can't offer you any more assistance in that line.

    Miles
  • tc1973tc1973 Posts: 7
    Hello Miles,

    That part about removing the defroster grilles led me in the right direction. The grilles themselves are not removable but I was able to pry up on the black part of the dash just enough to rip up and cut out the cone completely! Now my sound is much improved due to being able to adjust the balance. Still not powerful enough for me but it will keep me happy until I decide how to go about upgrading. BTW, how can I find out what size amp I have. I pulled out the amp awhile back but I don't recall ever seeing the the wattage. Sometimes all it takes is someone else to give you a different view on how to approach a situation. Thanks again!....P.S. I saw somewhere about the live discussion board chat on Wednesdays...Do you know what time the chat is?...

    Tim
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    The Town Hall has a live chat every third Wednesday of each month - http://www.edmunds.com/townhall/chat/townhallchat.html - is that what you are asking about?

    You'll find a list of all chats scheduled under "Chat Events" which is appears on the Town Hall welcome page - http://townhall.edmunds.com/TH/townhall. Scroll down just a bit and look over to the right side of the page.

    :-)
  • Glad you were able to solve the speaker problem.

    Regarding the amp wattage, there should be a label on it giving its wattage. Other places to look would be the Owner's Manual, or last resort, the Parts Department of a Chrysler/Dodge dealer should be able to look it up for you from their parts manuals. You'll have to find a cooperative guy, though. Some won't give you the time of day.

    I see that Pat gave you the info about the live chat times.
  • ottowrkrottowrkr Posts: 778
    mileshoover . the 99 LHS does not have 3 speakers on the dash . The only speaker on the dash is the center channel one , right next to the sun/alarm sensor light. You do not have to remove the dash to replace that 1 bad speaker . The top cover comes off , you just have to pry it up and off and you will see the speaker
  • OK, Otto, I stand corrected. :^))
  • tc1973tc1973 Posts: 7
    Now why couldn't the manual have mentioned that the black cover is removable byprying it up?!!!
  • I "think" ottowrkr meant to pry up the entire dash top. Now that I think about it, I believe that was mentioned at one time or another as a way to get inside it.
  • ottowrkrottowrkr Posts: 778
    the part that comes off is the part closest to the front window. The dash is split into two sections . You have the I.P top cover ( part that comes off) and the dash pad
  • tc1973tc1973 Posts: 7
    Regarding the I.P. cover, is it held in place by clips?

    About my hard steering...It is fixed now. The dealer replaced the "steering rack" and it seems to have fixed the 3 problems I was having. Except...now my drivers side door was dented on the very bottom lip. Kind of hard to notice unless you really get to looking, but once you know it's there, it stands out. Some of the paint is chipped off and there is a slight indention. I took it back immediately and was told to bring it back Tuesday and they would fix it. I asked about the dent being repainted and they said it would probably have to be. Not sure if I should just blow it off or let them fix it. I am worried that if they repaint the door, is the paint job going stand out as far as matching the rest of the car's paint? The paint is somewhat of a goldish brown with glitter in it. Do I need to notify the warranty company or my insurance company to make sure I am not screwed in this deal? Or am I being to picky and I should just let it go? My beef is that it had no dents when I purchased the car and will this dent cause my resale to go down tremendously? I've never been in this situation so I'm kind of just wanting some of your opinions. Maybe someone has been through this before.
  • I would definitely have them fix the dent; after all, it appears from what you have stated that it happened on their watch.

    So, it shouldn't cost anything... And if they are a decent dealer, they can match that paint quite well, even perfectly.

    Proper preparation also should ensure no later peeling, etc. But check it out thoroughly in sunlight, sighting along the door for both repair quality and paint match. Feel around the painted area with your bare hand for overspray that they may have failed to mask or remove. And have them fix that, if there is any.

    I would call both the insurance and warranty co. just to CYA.

    Regarding resale value, around here in No. VA, that same car is now only worth about 9K, anyway you look at it. Chrysler products do not retain much value, unfortunately.
  • WHAT IS THE TOP SPEED FOR A 99 CHRSYLER LHS? AND DO ANYBODY KNOW HOW I CAN MAKE MY TOP SPEED FASTER AND HOW TO MAKE MORE HP FOR A LOW COST OR CHEAP WAY?
  • Hello to all, I'm posting this here because the Concorde discussion is no long active. A good friend of mine owns the above Chrysler with 85K miles. It has always been well maintained with oil changes every 3K miles and oil level never going below 1 qt. low. This past week it suddenly siezed up solid! No oil light on beforehand and no strange sounds. It just suddenly stopped. Thier mechanic told them that this is somewhat common for the 2.7L. Anyone know what actually fails on these engines? I own a 2000 300M with the 3.5, was this problem corrected in that engine? Thanks in advance.
    -Frank
  • rogmanrogman Posts: 24
    Have a little over 40,000 miles. Trans shot. Cost to repair $1800 - $2000. Warranty is over. Chrysler says the car is too old! I am on my own. Will start the long battle with them!! So please.....beware!!
  • ms_mayorms_mayor Posts: 113
    This isn't covered under the 7/70 powertrain?
  • fastdriverfastdriver Posts: 2,273
    ms_mayor-

    There was NO 7/70 in 99. It was the first year for the LH models. The 7/70 came into play as DC's sales began to slip. It was supposed to be a short term "fix" to boost sales, but its still in force.

    fastdriver
  • Gotta disagree with your last that there was no 7/70 warranty on the '99 LHS.

    Took delivery of mine in April 1998 and was offered my choice of 3/36 or 7/70. Since the 7/70, at that time, included only 1/12 along with it on items other than the drive train, I opted to get the 3/36 warranty. Probably most other buyers did the same due to that skimpy additional coverage. We had no real intimation that the transmission was so screwed up on those early 1999 and 2000 models.

    Remember, too, that the updated 1998 LH body was introduced in September, 1997 with the Concorde; the LHS followed in April, 1998, but was called a 1999 model. The same thing was done before in 1992 with the 1993 Concorde. There was no 1993 LHS, but about April 1993, the LHS was released as a 1994 model.

    I had one of each, much to my regret due to Brampton's sloppy assembly. 1999 was Chrysler's so called "2mm car" meaning that all body junctions were not more than 2mm (about 1/4 inch). Haah, the hood, trunk and door fittings were more like an half to 3/4 inch!!! And none of those junctions were uniform. The dealer spent a week screwing it back together properly and refitting doors because I wouldn't accept the car as it came from the factory.

    But the 7/70 warranty was an option in '99 om the LHS. I think it was dropped for the 2000 or 2001 models and reissued later as you said for a sales incentive and to preclude some of the belly-aching about the earlier transmission problems.
  • fastdriverfastdriver Posts: 2,273
    mileshoover-

    THAT is news to me because I bought Christine in JUNE of 1998 and NOTHING was ever said about a 7/70 warranty for the tranny. Maybe it was only offered on the LHS and not the 300M? Are you sure this was a FACTORY warranty and NOT a local dealer warranty? I never heard or read anything about a 7/70 warranty being offered at that time.

    fastdriver
  • Yep, it was a factory warranty. I have no idea if it was available on any other Chrysler cars that year, had no interest in the M and only bought the LHS.

    The warranty covered ONLY the drive train for 7/70, the rest was the usual type of 3/36 coverage EXCEPT it only was for 1/12 which made me turn it down, even with my nasty experience with the '94 LHS.
  • fastdriverfastdriver Posts: 2,273
    mileshoover-

    IF it was available in CT in 1998, then either my "award-winning 5-STAR" dealer wasn't aware of it or failed to mention it.

    I'll ask in that other forum if anyone ever heard of this being available on other models in 1998.

    fastdriver
  • jglackinjglackin Posts: 164
    model year the option was offered. the 3/36 became the only option beginning w/ the 99 model year.
  • acco20acco20 Posts: 208
    I have a 2000 LHS. Have been having a real problem with sticking windows. All 4 stick, but the worst of them is the drivers window. I have tried the credit card to loosen them, but this does not work for me. I am in the northeast,cold, hot in summer etc. Does anyone have experiance with anything that actually works well. I would appreciate any advice. Thank you.
  • This problem is only partially solved by using the credit card. You must follow up, once the windows are moveable, to remove the residue on the glass itself which is causing the sticking.

    The weatherstrip material is made of a material which deposits some gunk on the top edges of the glass, both inside and out. This gunk must be removed and kept off.

    Clean the glass with a good glass cleaner; I like a cleaner with vinegar. You can make your own by adding about 4 tablespoons full of vinegar to about a quart of plain water; place the mixture into an old spray bottle and use it that way.

    How to get the glass down? Use the credit card or a small putty knife on BOTH sides of the glass where it touches the weatherstrips while operating the window control for down. Sometimes you may have to thump on the glass along and near the top (on both sides) to get it started down.

    Be sure to keep the glass clean at least weekly.

    I have found that getting a wax job in an auto cas wash can contribute or cause this problem also or at least make it worse, so if you use a wash, as soon as possible thereafter, clean off the top edges of the windows again after leaving the wash.

    If you are still under warranty, your dealer might replace the weatherstripping, but the sticking will only come back unless you keep the tops of the windows clean. I had my weatherstripping replaced only to have the same thing occur. There was/is a Tech Bulletin on this and dealers are well-aware of the problem.
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