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There was NO 7/70 in 99. It was the first year for the LH models. The 7/70 came into play as DC's sales began to slip. It was supposed to be a short term "fix" to boost sales, but its still in force.
fastdriver
Took delivery of mine in April 1998 and was offered my choice of 3/36 or 7/70. Since the 7/70, at that time, included only 1/12 along with it on items other than the drive train, I opted to get the 3/36 warranty. Probably most other buyers did the same due to that skimpy additional coverage. We had no real intimation that the transmission was so screwed up on those early 1999 and 2000 models.
Remember, too, that the updated 1998 LH body was introduced in September, 1997 with the Concorde; the LHS followed in April, 1998, but was called a 1999 model. The same thing was done before in 1992 with the 1993 Concorde. There was no 1993 LHS, but about April 1993, the LHS was released as a 1994 model.
I had one of each, much to my regret due to Brampton's sloppy assembly. 1999 was Chrysler's so called "2mm car" meaning that all body junctions were not more than 2mm (about 1/4 inch). Haah, the hood, trunk and door fittings were more like an half to 3/4 inch!!! And none of those junctions were uniform. The dealer spent a week screwing it back together properly and refitting doors because I wouldn't accept the car as it came from the factory.
But the 7/70 warranty was an option in '99 om the LHS. I think it was dropped for the 2000 or 2001 models and reissued later as you said for a sales incentive and to preclude some of the belly-aching about the earlier transmission problems.
THAT is news to me because I bought Christine in JUNE of 1998 and NOTHING was ever said about a 7/70 warranty for the tranny. Maybe it was only offered on the LHS and not the 300M? Are you sure this was a FACTORY warranty and NOT a local dealer warranty? I never heard or read anything about a 7/70 warranty being offered at that time.
fastdriver
The warranty covered ONLY the drive train for 7/70, the rest was the usual type of 3/36 coverage EXCEPT it only was for 1/12 which made me turn it down, even with my nasty experience with the '94 LHS.
IF it was available in CT in 1998, then either my "award-winning 5-STAR" dealer wasn't aware of it or failed to mention it.
I'll ask in that other forum if anyone ever heard of this being available on other models in 1998.
fastdriver
The weatherstrip material is made of a material which deposits some gunk on the top edges of the glass, both inside and out. This gunk must be removed and kept off.
Clean the glass with a good glass cleaner; I like a cleaner with vinegar. You can make your own by adding about 4 tablespoons full of vinegar to about a quart of plain water; place the mixture into an old spray bottle and use it that way.
How to get the glass down? Use the credit card or a small putty knife on BOTH sides of the glass where it touches the weatherstrips while operating the window control for down. Sometimes you may have to thump on the glass along and near the top (on both sides) to get it started down.
Be sure to keep the glass clean at least weekly.
I have found that getting a wax job in an auto cas wash can contribute or cause this problem also or at least make it worse, so if you use a wash, as soon as possible thereafter, clean off the top edges of the windows again after leaving the wash.
If you are still under warranty, your dealer might replace the weatherstripping, but the sticking will only come back unless you keep the tops of the windows clean. I had my weatherstripping replaced only to have the same thing occur. There was/is a Tech Bulletin on this and dealers are well-aware of the problem.
Here's the TSB on the sticking windows, a common problem on many LH models. MAYBE your "award-winning 5-STAR" dealer can look it up for you and see if he can resolve your problem.
Make : CHRYSLER Model : LHS Year : 2000
Service Bulletin Num : 0803100 Date of Bulletin: OCT 20, 2000
NHTSA Item Number: 618861
Component: VISIBILITY:POWER WINDOW DEVICES AND CONTROLS
Summary:
A CONDITION MAY EXIST WHERE THE WINDOW STICKS IN THE UP POSITION. THIS CONDITION MAY BE INTERMITTENT. *TT
fastdriver
I bought a used 2000 LHS in 2002. I have 42,000 mi on it to date. Recently, when I put the key in the ignition and turn it - nothing happens, not a sound. Sometimes I have to turn the key back and forth several times before it will start. Othertimes i turn it and hold it until it cranks over and starts Takes several agonizing seconds. It seems electrical to me, starter, ignition, the actual switch itself or the security system. ???? Any ideas.
Thanks, Ted
I'd say that's your solution as well.
Wow! You're lucky it took this long to burn out. It was a common problem that many LH owners had. You need new window motors.
fastdriver
waltr
Good luck!
Sorry for the delay in answering. My usual screename "fastdriver" isn't working AGAIN, so I had to use my alternate fastdriver2 sign-in. Very screwy.
I have NO clue as to the cost. ALL work done on my Christine was performed under warranty at those "award-winning 5-STAR" dealers! I found this for you at NHTSA.
CHRYSLER
Model : LHS
Year : 1999
Service Bulletin Num : 084099
Date of Bulletin: DEC 03, 1999
NHTSA Item Number: 6089717
Component: VISIBILITY:POWER WINDOW DEVICES AND CONTROLS
Summary:
DISCUSSION STATING THAT CURRENTLY, WINDOW MOTORS ARE BEING SERVICED SEPARATELY FROM THE WINDOW REGULATOR. *TT
CHRYSLER
Model : LHS
Year : 1999
Service Bulletin Num : #9867
Date of Bulletin: DEC 15, 1998
NHTSA Item Number: 603173
Component: ELECTRICAL SYSTEM:WIRING
Summary:
COMPLAINTS OF WINDOW MOTORS WIRED INCORRECTLY. *YC
It was a well-known problem back in 99-00. The fact that yours lasted so long just seems to mean it died a "natural" death and wasn't a result of DC's $$$ cutting. Back in 98, it was still CHRYSLER!
Sorry I couldn't be of more help.
fastdriver2 AKA fastdriver when that account starts working again!
Enjoy!
They do sell a tool to remove the pins at the parts stores, looks like a bent screwdriver with a V in the end. You can get extra pins from the
Service Dept at the dealer usually no charge.
At 135K I had more service - air conditioner compressor (noisy), evaporator (small leak), struts, bushings. Also had the 4 oxygen sensors replaced as dealer said a sensor might be causing the MPG problem. No luck so far.
Here is the bottom line problem. The MPG listed is for highway driving. If the outside temperature is around 70 degrees when I start the car the MPG is about 28-29. If the temp is around 50 degrees the MPG is about 26. If temp is 30 degrees the MPG is about 24. If the temp is 80 degrees the MPG is 24. If it is 90 degrees the MPG is about 20. If at 95 degrees the MPG is 18.
As an example I started the car one day when it was 95 degrees. Pickup was terrible and MPG was about 18. As I kept driving the temp dropped to 70 degrees at night. When I stopped the engine to gas up and restarted the engine the MPG went up to 28.
Any ideas what is causing this and how to fix?
Thanks
I was driving home from work enjoying my air conditioned ride when I was sideswipped on driver's side.
We went to pick up our LHS from being fixed and turned on the a/c and got nothing but hot air. The a/c worked before the accident and doesn't work now--our conclusion was that it was knocked out by the accident. Garage mechanics said they didn't know what was wrong with it; but, they could do a diagnostic test on it for $100 and tell us.
The catch 22 is: before the diagnostic test, our insurance adjuster said "he didn't think" the "non-working" a/c was caused by the accident and suspected that it was the evaporator pan that was the cause; and since "he" thought that, the insurance refused to pay for the diagnostic test. The insurance people further said that "unless it was the compressor or hose that was leaking" that the accident was not the reason the a/c wasn't working. The funny part is that, as I said, the garage mechanic said he didn't know "what" was wrong with the a/c without doing the diagnostic test; so, I "okay'd" the test to be done.
The garage mechanics come back with -- evaporator pan needs replaced $255 for parts and $638 labor (evidently the evaporator pan in enclosed in a plastic case under the dashboard on the RIGHT side and it is labor intensive to get to).
We go back to the insurance adjuster and tell him that and he states that "Chrysler is known for having problems with their air conditioners" and refuses to discuss our claim any further.
So, I am looking for any Chrysler air conditioning stories that owners/past owners/drivers of Chryslers want to tell. Thank you.
I want to buy or have fixed the LED 3rd brake light on my 94 LHS. Dealership prices are expensive for a new one. I also new to replace or repair the flashing LED that's on the dash...when the alarm is activated..the LED flashes. Alarm is working...just the LED is burned out. I do have power going to the alarm LED...all that was checked out. With the 3rd brake light...24 of the LED's are not lighting up.
Some company somewhere must know how to repair these things! Any leads? Thanks!
Hal
Hal
I have seen the inside dash gauges flash once. They go completely out when they did this so I know it's not just a dimmer switch issue. I'll get a rebuilt Body Control Module (which I am told is under the dash) if it continues to be a problem.
I'll get some Rubber Black and wipe the seals around the windows so that doesn;t burn their motors out. I'll ignore the rubber around the headlights. I also noticed the headlights are pointed just a tad low (probably normal). In these days of giant SUV's blaring their headlights in your car I certainly won't mind re-aiming these just a tad higher (adjust them up just a few inchs while pointing at a wall, then try them by parking about 20' behind another car on a flat surface to ensure they don't point into that car). This headlight re-aiming tip works makes a HUGE difference most of the time.
For the $12,500 I have into it I hope it lasts another 100k!
Hal
How old is your battery? You may want to get it checked-out.
1. Opened each and took a razor and scraped the top inch or so to remove a rubbery residue.
2. Cleaned the glass at the top thoroughly with window cleaner then applied rain-x to the top edge as per directions.
3. Applied rubber treatment to the gasket at the top of the door---very aggressively to get into the contact edge.
Results were amazing. So smooth and effortless.
It pays to browse these forums---thanks to all and Edmunds!!
I had this problem many years ago. I changed the battery and that solved it. Cars are a lot different now though.
I was told that your problem is probably around your battery. When it was replaced something could have broken loose. It's an honest mistake that does sometimes happen. Start looking there.
Also, any other work done on your car recently? If so check it out.
The mechanic would like to know how you make out. He's seen this before.
Couple of related things i have noticed. My interior(dash cluster, interior lights, etc.) lights seem to "flutter" from bright to low somewhat. They do not seem to be getting a consistent power supply. Also, i notice that sometimes when i push on the breaks, sometimes my radio cuts off, my dash lights flicker...for a fraction of a second....then things turn back to normal. Sometimes when i drive the car, my battery light does not come on at all and i notice that the earlier described symptoms do not appear.
I have cleaned my Hot/Ground connections on my battery connectors, and have replaced the alternator w/ a known good unit w/out any change. Is there anyone who has had experience w/this type of issue on chryslers. any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
To me it is so minor that I don't worry about it. I just live with it and when it does happen, I know it will reset itself.
It has developed a fuel smell, mostly on the outside, after especially heat or AC is on during travel.
Any others out there who has/had this problem.?
What may be issue to fix here.?
safe to drive.?
Thanks for any info you can provide.