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Now my key will not turn and I came to this site to see if anyone knew if it is the cyinder or the switch? I am facing $250. One of the two have to be re-keyed after it is re-placed and I had to have it towed since I could not engage the key. Have you ever heard of this?
thanx, D
Mossi
My wife took care of maint. on the car faithfully
The chrysler dealership wants around $9000.00 to replace engine,another engine repair shop wants $7000.00
My insurance company will not put out any monies to get it replaced
So what can we do,we really don't have funds to replace engine or purchase a new car... :mad:
I am having the same problem. I have a 1999 Concorde with 122K miles and it just locked up yesterday. My son removed the plastic covers and I can not see any obvious problem. Please share any info on this problem. Thanks.
Vic :sick:
Just to let everyone know, I read somewhere else that the key cylinder tumblers get jammed because of dirt/sand/junk. To fix, with the key in the ignition, lightly tap the top of the key with a rubber hammer or handle of a screw driver 10 to 20 times. This will un-jam the tumblers. It definitely worked for me.
Victor
I have the same problem with my Concorde lxi - the car is running for some time (about 20-30 miles) and then engine light comes on and car dies. However, in about 20 minutes it can drive again.
I am just wondering if you found what the problem is.
Thanks a lot!
Kelly Blue Book suggested retail is $9775
Private Party Pricing is anywhere from $6,405 for fair condition, $7,140 for good condition and $7,720 for excellent condition - so the dealer is asking kbb value for fair condition. The condition of the car is all relative.
http://www.kbb.com/kb/ki.dll/kw.kc.ucp?kbb.WA;;WA057;&98221&;531451&;;ucp;&6;CR;- G1
Good Luck,
TZoe
engine,changed knock sensors,cleaned intake,new computer
cleaned intake.car has a hard knock on reg gas.
prem gas does help ,but car still pings ?
Firstly, I am sorry for my bad Engish, I live in Canada only one month!
So, my Chrysler Concorde 94, 3.5 L have some vibration on rpm lower 1000 in any gear stick position except neutral (rpm 1000 or little more),and which go away when car running.
The car running fine in all conditions, problem is only on intersections.
Three left plugs of engine are dirty black, other right plugs are clear when I replaced their. Timing belt marks position is good. If somebody know about this problem write to e-mail please:
soar2000@bigmir.net
Anyone now what causes this and/or how to fix it?
Thanks.
I live in an apartment and can't work on my car (since I read I'd have to drop the tank to get to it).
So, questions:
1) What part(s) should I get checked?
2) How much should it be to get a dealer to fix it (they are pretty decent here...usually)?
3) Anything else I should change while doing this?
Thanks for any help you can offer!
Thanks.
Im having a few problems with my 2001 chrylser concorde. The first one is that the service engine soon light comes on intermitently, two of the codes are that the battery has been disconnected within the last 50 starts (which it hasnt been), and recently it says computer error. (Another is a cylinder misfire but I think i know how I can fix that.) I was looking around and found that this could mean the the computer keeps getting disconnected so it is saying this, but then why hasnt it said computer error before. Does anyone know what the problem might be or where i could find the computer to see if the connections are loose.
The second problem is that it starts very hard sometimes, usually if you try and start it not too long after you have ran it.
Does anyone know how I could fix these problems?
THANK YOU!
A mechanic we know gave the car a quick inspection and did not see anything in particular that was a problem.
I also plan to purchase a 2 year 30,000 mile warranty for an additional $1000. I am buying the car from a Chrysler dealer and they have a service center on site for repairs.
I have been reading through the posts on this forum. The warranty I purchase will cover things such as A/C leaks and power windows repairs.
I will keep posting to the group for any problems I encounter.
You may want to do a little research on oil sludge problems w/ mainly the 2.7 ltr motor. I just purchased a 99 LX w/ a 2.7 5 days ago and only today found out there are all kinds of engine failure problems due to oil sludge build up. Some w/ as little as 50,000 miles on them.
I too had my best friend ( a mechanic for 20 yrs) look over the car before buying it and he thought it was a great deal w/ no obvious problems.
Your warranty will more then likely not cover engine replacement for this problem. And there are talks of a class action suit against Chrysler because of this problem.
The oil light never came on during our test drive, but with in 2 days of owning the car it started to flicker. This I have learned is the 1st signs of the almost emenent* total engine failure that awaits me. :mad:
The worst part is this car was bought as a replacement for a beautiful 96 Nissan King cab w/ only 80,000 miles that was totaled when a Ford F350 p/u made a left turn in front of me 3 weeks ago.
We love the looks,comfort and ride of this car. But it is going up for sale as soon as we get the title in the mail.
i am greatful for any help. thank u all.
Hopefully i didnt disappoint you. Using the access cover for the fuel pump is much easier and quicker than dropping the tank.
i have a problem simular to yours i will be driving and it will shut off and 2hrs,later it start up and will run great. this happened to me twice and it runs great for two days in between. did you find out what was wrong with yours? i have a 1999 3.2 v6 concorde lxi. 92,000 k.
Your comments would be appreciated.
Thanks, Mike
Yeah you should check your codes again (turn the key back and forth 3 times from just before start to off and get the new codes). Ive just started to ignore the misfire becuase its really intermittent and doesnt happen as often. Ive heard from many that alot of people get the battery disconnect error and to just ignore it. The flashing light means that damage can occur soon so check the codes and dont drive it if u dont have to. If its running terrible it could be multiple cylinder misfire and it might be possible the wrong plugs were installed or not properly installed.
Hope this helps, post back.
The new code im getting is the failed checksum i havent noticed any problems but i might need a new pcm or have it reflashed its annoying cause the light wont shut off now...
After a week the check engine light went off and it runs better but it is hard to start still. The shop is stunned that they can't figure it out. Lucky for me they have not charged me the last two time.
Any thoughts anyone.
Mike
Mike
I should have explained my rationalization better. I figured if there is a strong gas smell then the problem shouldn't be gas and perhaps it spark related or something down this line of electrical problem. Im certainly not an expect but it was my theory.
I should also explain that the check engine light has gone and no more error codes. However, its still hard to start with a strong gas smell. There is no problem starting the car if it had been running prior to restarting. Its only a problem when it sits longer than 1/2 hour.
Mike
I have some telling me to drop it and other saying I don't have to. Help!
My son got tired of waiting on me and so took the car to a dealer today to get their evaluation. They quoted three hours labor - one to replace the pump and two to drop the tank!
I believe you are correct about the pump replacement. They didn't say that to replace the pump was three hours, which I believe they would state if they really did need to drop the tank to get at the pump, but one hour to replace the pump and two for the tank. As if they are charging me for two different procedures.
If you want, get your impacient son to pay for it :P