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Chrysler Concorde

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    packpluspackplus Member Posts: 2
    I wonder if you ever figured that out because I am rebuilding an 04 chrysler and I can't figure out how to put a bumper on it. Did you have to buy a new headlight?
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    jzeitlerjzeitler Member Posts: 3
    If anyone has any suggestions for me it would be great. I'm new to joining this site, yet I've been reading posts for a while now. I have a 2000 Chrysler Concorde LXI,(re-built transmission 2 weeks ago) and driving home the other day I got an all of a sudden grinding noise from my front left braking area when I brake. I am able to see the brake pads and they are not worn as I just put new rotors and pads on 3 months ago. So as I'm driving home and begin to accelerate, as I get to about 20 mph., I heard and felt something light and tinny almost fly out from the front left tire, but it was impossible to tell what it was. At that point the terrible grinding noise went away. 2 days later (yesterday), the grinding got so bad I'm afraid to drive the car... If it's not brake pads or rotor's, what is it?
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    jzeitlerjzeitler Member Posts: 3
    My 2000 LXI temp gauge is just under a half, with it never going any higher that
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    jzeitlerjzeitler Member Posts: 3
    My problems solved. The mechanic put it on a lift and saw that the knuclehead who last replaced my pads and rotors 2 1/2 months ago didn't completely screw in 2 caliper bolts, and the braking aparatus was rubbing on the interior rim, with no pad or rotor damage. $20 later I'm all better.NICE!!!!!
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    littledlittled Member Posts: 4
    YES! I thought I was crazy! I thought mine was due to a short as the display to read the temperature does not always display either. Sometimes I can beat on the center of the car just above the display and it will display the temp but it is not necessary so I don't mess with it. Now my air will have cold air when it is on however it will not "blow" (fan not on) If I shut the driver door hard it will come on?!@#$%%

    Now my key will not turn and I came to this site to see if anyone knew if it is the cyinder or the switch? I am facing $250. One of the two have to be re-keyed after it is re-placed and I had to have it towed since I could not engage the key. Have you ever heard of this?
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    littledlittled Member Posts: 4
    This is the second time I have been stranded this time I had to be towed in. My key will not turn and Yes I checked the gear shift and the position of the steering wheel. It won't even go into auxillary. Over the phone I was told it was eithe the switch or the cyliner and one of these two runs $48, $65 labor, re-keying around $50 and I paid $55 to be towed across town. I found and Ignition lock at Autozone for $31.99 however I am not sure this is what I will need? Any help!
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    littledlittled Member Posts: 4
    This is the second time I have been stranded this time I had to be towed in. My key will not turn and Yes I checked the gear shift and the position of the steering wheel. It won't even go into auxiliary. Over the phone I was told it was either the switch or the cylinder and one of these two runs $48, $65 labor, re-keying around $50 and I paid $55 to be towed across town. I found and Ignition lock at Auto zone for $31.99 however I am not sure this is what I will need? Any help!
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    yuliyayuliya Member Posts: 1
    I recently bought a 2002 lxi wih a factory 4disc changer and steering wheel conntrols. However the radio is fried and i cant use anything. I tried looking for a new piece but only chrysler has the same exact part number and they want $500 for it. Does anyone know any part numbers for the radios that while fit this criteria?????? thankz :confuse:
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    darterdendarterden Member Posts: 1
    have concorde lxi 3.5L. idles about 1700rpm in neutral and accelerator pedal acts sticky when engine temp gets higher than normal when stuck in traffic. 1700 rpm is the idle speed at normal operating temp. have already replaced throttle poitions sensor and idle air control thingy. is the next and only fix the intake manifold gasket? 118k on car now, intake gasket was replaced by dealer at approx. 42k. check engine is on but will more sensor replacements correct the problem or is only a deep surgery the method to correct the idle problem. tough to drive in the snow at 1000rpm in drive. some suggestions please.

    thanx, D
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    strikerzrevengstrikerzreveng Member Posts: 1
    I have a ? I have a 1996 Concorde and love it I'm 19 by the way. Ok I have to replace a rod in my engine now I was wondering does anyone know how much that will cost and a place in FL preferred Orlando that would do it for cheap? In addition to that I want to eventually drop a new engine in her (my car) I was thinking a Mustang 50 engine but I think it might be to big I was just wondering if anyone knew if it would work or if I was right it can't be done. O by the way my car has over 160,000 miles I got her at 134,000 maybe 3 monthz ago going on 4. I love my car and I don't want to get rid of her cause I think I can get a good 3 more yearz out of her but she just needz a little work that and I can't afford another monthy bill plz help me out ^ ^

    Mossi
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    lenny27lenny27 Member Posts: 1
    Our 2000 chrysler Concord engine failed and they are blaming us nobody wants to take the responsibility
    My wife took care of maint. on the car faithfully
    The chrysler dealership wants around $9000.00 to replace engine,another engine repair shop wants $7000.00
    My insurance company will not put out any monies to get it replaced
    So what can we do,we really don't have funds to replace engine or purchase a new car... :mad:
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    valle2valle2 Member Posts: 2
    Hi,
    I am having the same problem. I have a 1999 Concorde with 122K miles and it just locked up yesterday. My son removed the plastic covers and I can not see any obvious problem. Please share any info on this problem. Thanks.

    Vic :sick:
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    valle2valle2 Member Posts: 2
    Hi,
    Just to let everyone know, I read somewhere else that the key cylinder tumblers get jammed because of dirt/sand/junk. To fix, with the key in the ignition, lightly tap the top of the key with a rubber hammer or handle of a screw driver 10 to 20 times. This will un-jam the tumblers. It definitely worked for me.
    Victor :)
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    rowsermrowserm Member Posts: 1
    While I was driving on the freeway yesterday, my speedometer stopped working. I continued to drive a short distance but I notice a hesitancy when I made the light. As I was near my home, I continued to drive. As I made the turn into the driveway, the car died. After a minute, I turned the car back on, it started, but the speedometer is not working. Any ideas before I take it to the dealership? I have 65,000 miles on the car. Thank you
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    dusek1dusek1 Member Posts: 1
    Sorry to here of your problem. I experienced the same thing about 6 mo. ago. It ended up being either the input or output sensor for the transmission. Unfortunately for me , I spent 300.00 on it. I believe both sensors are only about 45.00. If you know anybody who is mechanically inclined have them install the sensors. It will save you a couple hundred bucks
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    rkkadkrkkadk Member Posts: 1
    I have found a 2001 LX with 63,000 and the dealer is asking $6,400 for it. It does have ABS, but no CD player. Do you all think this is a good deal?
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    tjo1tjo1 Member Posts: 2
    I'm on my 2nd winter and another 370.00 to replace a heater door motor and thermostat in my 3.5. Still no heat to speak of, a little until I turn the blower on and it dissipates. Mechanics say core ok? Any suggestions..I have came across a few postings referring to Concorde heater problem but can't find original message. Please help.
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    tjo1tjo1 Member Posts: 2
    It might be important to add that every morning I would have to start my Concorde twice, the first time it would not shift into 2nd gear, but when I pulled over, shut it off and started it again, it would shift. I also had a check engine light. I was told it was going into limp mode and would probably need an overhaul. Happily, the mechanic who hasn't been abe to fix the heater replaced the valve body that had holes in it and the tranny has been fine for about a month. I have had a lot of problems with front end noise and since 98 have had sway bars, idler arms, motor mounts and bushings all replaced. The car is back to pulling real hard to the right, so I had them checked and was told they are all ok. I know it's time to move on, but I'm hoping to fix the heater and hang in a while longer. Again, any ideas on the heater (see message above). Could it be related to any of this?
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    dennymdennym Member Posts: 1
    My 98 shimmies at low speeds also. I've had all the suspension parts checked several times. Neither the Chrysler dealer nor the tire dealers could find anthing wrong and have no suggestions. I did read in Popular Mechanics that a slightly out of round rim can cause this problem. They showed a simple test for checking if this is the case but I haven't tried it yet. It involves jacking up the car, setting a straight edge close to the inside edge on the rim and then rotating the tire to see if the rim is true. You can probably look it up in the past issues, The articll was in one of the fall of '05 issues.
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    wendy8413wendy8413 Member Posts: 1
    I have has the same things going on with my car for the past year, but my check engine light comes on when it acts like it is going to die. Have you figured out what it is yet? I have taken it in 2 times they tell me it sensors,but I replaced them. Now I throwing my hands in the air because they want to charge my 500.00 to tear the car apart and they can't say they will even find the problem.
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    werwooolfwerwooolf Member Posts: 1
    Hi lturner1,
    I have the same problem with my Concorde lxi - the car is running for some time (about 20-30 miles) and then engine light comes on and car dies. However, in about 20 minutes it can drive again.

    I am just wondering if you found what the problem is.

    Thanks a lot!
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    tzoetzoe Member Posts: 1
    I have the 2001 Concorde - purchased with 57k two years ago for $5,500 on Ebay, which was a wonderful deal. It is a wonderful car and is quite comfortable. Ours doesn't have the CD player either - I believe that the LXi came with that plus a leather package.

    Kelly Blue Book suggested retail is $9775
    Private Party Pricing is anywhere from $6,405 for fair condition, $7,140 for good condition and $7,720 for excellent condition - so the dealer is asking kbb value for fair condition. The condition of the car is all relative.

    http://www.kbb.com/kb/ki.dll/kw.kc.ucp?kbb.WA;;WA057;&98221&;531451&;;ucp;&6;CR;- G1

    Good Luck,
    TZoe
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    macwmacw Member Posts: 1
    02 concorde 3.5 that pings.dealership has decarbonized
    engine,changed knock sensors,cleaned intake,new computer
    cleaned intake.car has a hard knock on reg gas.
    prem gas does help ,but car still pings ?
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    soarsoar Member Posts: 1
    Hi,
    Firstly, I am sorry for my bad Engish, I live in Canada only one month!

    So, my Chrysler Concorde 94, 3.5 L have some vibration on rpm lower 1000 in any gear stick position except neutral (rpm 1000 or little more),and which go away when car running.
    The car running fine in all conditions, problem is only on intersections.
    Three left plugs of engine are dirty black, other right plugs are clear when I replaced their. Timing belt marks position is good. If somebody know about this problem write to e-mail please:
    soar2000@bigmir.net
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    jms1024jms1024 Member Posts: 3
    My 2000 Concorde with 86,700 miles on it just started intermittently doing the fuel gauge dip to E (which also causes the fuel light and "ding" to go off) for a moment before it races back up to the proper reading.

    Anyone now what causes this and/or how to fix it?
    Thanks.
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    jms1024jms1024 Member Posts: 3
    My 2000 Concorde with 86,700 miles on it just started in the last week to have the fuel gauge temporarily dip to E then pop back up. After reading in the forums some last night, sounds like it might be the fuel sensor "thing" in the tank.

    I live in an apartment and can't work on my car (since I read I'd have to drop the tank to get to it).

    So, questions:
    1) What part(s) should I get checked?
    2) How much should it be to get a dealer to fix it (they are pretty decent here...usually)?
    3) Anything else I should change while doing this?

    Thanks for any help you can offer!
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    gofpowergofpower Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 99 Concorde and have the same problem with the trunk - won't open with the remote or from the car interior. Did you find an answer to this problem?

    Thanks.
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    dallaswdallasw Member Posts: 3
    Hi everyone,

    Im having a few problems with my 2001 chrylser concorde. The first one is that the service engine soon light comes on intermitently, two of the codes are that the battery has been disconnected within the last 50 starts (which it hasnt been), and recently it says computer error. (Another is a cylinder misfire but I think i know how I can fix that.) I was looking around and found that this could mean the the computer keeps getting disconnected so it is saying this, but then why hasnt it said computer error before. Does anyone know what the problem might be or where i could find the computer to see if the connections are loose.

    The second problem is that it starts very hard sometimes, usually if you try and start it not too long after you have ran it.

    Does anyone know how I could fix these problems?

    THANK YOU!
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    auntkrissyauntkrissy Member Posts: 1
    I just replaced the fuel pump in my '93 concord, and now my gas guage says there is 1/4 of a tank. While the engine died as I ran out of gas, the guage read 1/4 of a tank. I filled the tank to capacity and the guage still says there is 1/4 of a tank. Is there any possible reason the guage isn't working besides the float being stuck? If there isn't, then how to unstick it without dropping the tank. I am not sure I can manage enough roast to get my husband to drop that tank again!
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    bisanbisan Member Posts: 9
    I have agreed to buy a 98 Concorde with almost 62k miles on it. I am getting it for $6000 and the dealer is including a 3 month 3000 mile warranty. The car is very clean and looks to be in excellent condition.

    A mechanic we know gave the car a quick inspection and did not see anything in particular that was a problem.

    I also plan to purchase a 2 year 30,000 mile warranty for an additional $1000. I am buying the car from a Chrysler dealer and they have a service center on site for repairs.

    I have been reading through the posts on this forum. The warranty I purchase will cover things such as A/C leaks and power windows repairs.

    I will keep posting to the group for any problems I encounter.
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    ahhzahhz Member Posts: 1
    bisan,
    You may want to do a little research on oil sludge problems w/ mainly the 2.7 ltr motor. I just purchased a 99 LX w/ a 2.7 5 days ago and only today found out there are all kinds of engine failure problems due to oil sludge build up. Some w/ as little as 50,000 miles on them.
    I too had my best friend ( a mechanic for 20 yrs) look over the car before buying it and he thought it was a great deal w/ no obvious problems.
    Your warranty will more then likely not cover engine replacement for this problem. And there are talks of a class action suit against Chrysler because of this problem.
    The oil light never came on during our test drive, but with in 2 days of owning the car it started to flicker. This I have learned is the 1st signs of the almost emenent* total engine failure that awaits me. :cry: :mad:
    The worst part is this car was bought as a replacement for a beautiful 96 Nissan King cab w/ only 80,000 miles that was totaled when a Ford F350 p/u made a left turn in front of me 3 weeks ago.
    We love the looks,comfort and ride of this car. But it is going up for sale as soon as we get the title in the mail.
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    beeter101beeter101 Member Posts: 1
    i am a young male in search of speed. does any1 know how i can make my 99 concorde faster. its a 2.7 liter.
    i am greatful for any help. thank u all.
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    penizzlepenizzle Member Posts: 104
    When installing the pump, the sensor was probably bumped or the float was bumped, making it innacurate, or possibly the sensor is bad. Alos, on your pump, it has to be put in the right way and the small triangle on top of the pump that matches a small triangle on the edge of the fuel tank opening you see. Align those and it is in right. Return the assembly and exchange it for a new one. By the way, for your car, you dont have to drop the tank to gain access. In the trunk, remove the spare tire cover and pull the carpet away from the very back of the trunk. After the carpet is pulled back from the back, you will see a U shaped cover with bolts holding it in place. Remove the bolts, pull off the cover and voila! The fuel pump can be seen. Just disconnect everything and pull it out. Also, instead of having to reach in the trunk, you can fold forward the back seats and work in the back of the trunk that way. Hope this helps. Proper instalation is key.

    Hopefully i didnt disappoint you. Using the access cover for the fuel pump is much easier and quicker than dropping the tank.
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    djpcdjpc Member Posts: 2
    werwooolf,
    i have a problem simular to yours i will be driving and it will shut off and 2hrs,later it start up and will run great. this happened to me twice and it runs great for two days in between. did you find out what was wrong with yours? i have a 1999 3.2 v6 concorde lxi. 92,000 k.
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    djpcdjpc Member Posts: 2
    i will be driving and my 1999 concorde lxi it will shut off and after it cools down(2hrs). it will start up and runs great. this happened to me twice and it runs great for two days or so. i have a 1999 3.2 v6 concorde lxi. 92,000 k.
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    penizzlepenizzle Member Posts: 104
    Your car is probably ready for a tune up(plugs wires, fuel and air filters, fluid changes). Also, check the fuel pressure as it is happening. Does the car even fire when you crank it after it dies?
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    velesmjvelesmj Member Posts: 6
    Hi Dallasw. I was wondering if you had any responses to your concord problems. I too have the check engine light on and the error codes also read battery disconnect and cylinder #6 misfire. I brought it to a repair shop and they told me it was a bad spark plug. I just replaced them and I found it odd. It did run OK for 1 day and it now runs terrible. Now I have the check engine light flashing.

    Your comments would be appreciated.

    Thanks, Mike
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    penizzlepenizzle Member Posts: 104
    Obviously, scan your computer again. Are the symptoms you have now the same as before?
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    dallaswdallasw Member Posts: 3
    Hey mike,

    Yeah you should check your codes again (turn the key back and forth 3 times from just before start to off and get the new codes). Ive just started to ignore the misfire becuase its really intermittent and doesnt happen as often. Ive heard from many that alot of people get the battery disconnect error and to just ignore it. The flashing light means that damage can occur soon so check the codes and dont drive it if u dont have to. If its running terrible it could be multiple cylinder misfire and it might be possible the wrong plugs were installed or not properly installed.
    Hope this helps, post back.

    The new code im getting is the failed checksum i havent noticed any problems but i might need a new pcm or have it reflashed its annoying cause the light wont shut off now...
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    velesmjvelesmj Member Posts: 6
    I brought the car to a repair shop 3 times and the car works fine until the next morning. It is hard to start, there is a strong smell of gas and it runs rough. It all 3 cases they reset the computer it it always comes back with the battery disconnection warning and cylinder 6 misfire. The second time it came back a multiple cylinder misfire.

    After a week the check engine light went off and it runs better but it is hard to start still. The shop is stunned that they can't figure it out. Lucky for me they have not charged me the last two time.

    Any thoughts anyone.

    Mike
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    penizzlepenizzle Member Posts: 104
    I think i know the prob. nYou either have a leaky or bad fuel injector on cylinder 6 and?or a faulty fuel pressure regulator.
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    velesmjvelesmj Member Posts: 6
    Wouldn't the technitions with their so modern equipment be able to detect these problems? I would have thought that because there was a strong smell of gas that it would be maybe something electrical.

    Mike
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    penizzlepenizzle Member Posts: 104
    Usually gas smell is not electrical, in fact i dont think it ever is. Modern equipment (scanners, computers) i have found dont do as good a job as a good old fashoined examinzation would do. Todays mechanics rely on too many computers and dont know about cars as much as they should.
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    velesmjvelesmj Member Posts: 6
    Thanks penizzle for taking the time to respond.

    I should have explained my rationalization better. I figured if there is a strong gas smell then the problem shouldn't be gas and perhaps it spark related or something down this line of electrical problem. Im certainly not an expect but it was my theory.

    I should also explain that the check engine light has gone and no more error codes. However, its still hard to start with a strong gas smell. There is no problem starting the car if it had been running prior to restarting. Its only a problem when it sits longer than 1/2 hour.

    Mike
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    penizzlepenizzle Member Posts: 104
    It definatly sounds like a fuel problem. Check for leaking fuel injectors and pressure regulator. It has to be one of those
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    yozhoyozho Member Posts: 3
    Hi, I'm trying to verify that I do not have to drop the tank to replace a fuel pump in this vehicle. I have found several refs to going in thru the trunk to do this but I'm trying to find an explicit reference to this.

    I have some telling me to drop it and other saying I don't have to. Help!
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    penizzlepenizzle Member Posts: 104
    You do not have to drop the tank. On 93-97 chrysler concords, there is an access panel in the trunk. Pull back the carpet and trim and you will see an oval shape cover in the back of the trunk. Here is something you can do in case you dont believe me. It takes about 10 seconds. Lift the spare tire cover off in the trunk. Now pull the carpet up off the frame in the back of the trunk. If you see an access panel with three bolts holding it down, you do not have to drop the tank. Good luck.
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    yozhoyozho Member Posts: 3
    Thanks, Penizzle. The worm has turned since I posted this. :-)

    My son got tired of waiting on me and so took the car to a dealer today to get their evaluation. They quoted three hours labor - one to replace the pump and two to drop the tank!

    I believe you are correct about the pump replacement. They didn't say that to replace the pump was three hours, which I believe they would state if they really did need to drop the tank to get at the pump, but one hour to replace the pump and two for the tank. As if they are charging me for two different procedures.
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    penizzlepenizzle Member Posts: 104
    I know I'm right about the access panel. You are getting ripped. When they give you you're car back, ask them why they dropped the tank when you can get to it through the back of the trunk.

    If you want, get your impacient son to pay for it :P
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    hanna5858hanna5858 Member Posts: 6
    My gas gauge bounces from full to empty making the low fuel light to come on and off and the low fuel chime will sound each time it does the bounce. I saw another posting on this problem any solutions out there. Thanks
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